A few years ago I started filming videos of my young kids to record their development and forward on to family members. I do the same with microcars . If you like what you see here why not subscribe? I span the gaps in automotive culture. Call me a purveyor of anything oddly interesting and mechaincal. Anything automotive related, especially orphaned or shunned heaps...they should get just as much love as a concours trailer queens. hahaha..
Hi, couldnt the control arm be jacked up to sit level and get at the ball joint to remove it without removing the spindle? Same question: Will that lower control arm CLEAR the hub assembly if at a proper angle? Please answer i need to do this for my old dad. I have lots of experience but not specifically on every since make and model.
Mix some 20 parts permethrin and 80 parts water (2 to 3 cups). Wait until the temperature is below 65° (they will all be in the hive/nest) and go out predawn, with your full body covered. The mixture should be milky white. Pour the solution down in the hole and go back in the house. Within 1 hour they all will likely be dead and that hole will be protected for 60 to 90 days. Permethrin is not poisonous to mammals, birds nor reptiles but will kill or repel insects, arachnids, arthropods, etc.
My first road bike was a derelict 1958 Sears moped. Puch 50cc pedal start two speed manual with left twist grip shift. Tires in that size were not available (1984) and the ones I had were dry rotted so it was a great learning machine how to keep it alive and how to use tire tubes and tire patches in interesting ways to keep it on the road.
My first motorbike, was a very similar moped (different branded body, but engine and drivetrain near identical). It's easier to start these while pedalling along the road, that gives you a bit more get-up-and-go, as you rapidly twist the throttle from the fully forward twist (the decompression release) setting and then twist it back to give the engine some fuel. If it doesn't start first try just keep pedalling, decompress again and then as the engine spins over, back onto the throttle. Mine had a Chrome-metal bore, so that pistons and rings could be replaced without needing to rebore the cylinder. Running on "petr-oil" as in petrol/gasoline and 2 stroke oil mixed. The "disengage" lever on the big pulley by the left pedal, just disengages the engine entirely. If you're broken down you can then simply pedal it like a normal bicycle. However it is incredibly low geared and impractical to ride as a normal bike for any more than a few hundred metres. However with low powered engines, going up steep hills, one can pedal to help assist the engine. Here in New Zealand, At the time (many decades ago) to qualify as a "moped" a small motorcycle had to have "pedals that can be used for alternative propulsion" (and engine power under 2kw / approx 3 hp). (Later the term 'moped' has been used for the modern 2 stroke or 4 stroke, scooters without pedals, but having a restricted 60kmh / 36 mph limiter on the engine. They use the same kind of variator transmission. The speed limiting is either acheived by a sorta washer installed in the variator which keeps it from advancing all the way into the highest ratio, or sometimes simply a restrictor on the throttle slide in the carbuerttor from opening all the way. "For off road use only" people sometimes remove those restrictions and the wee scooters can get close to 80 kmh / 50 mph. Decades back when I had my moped, , a full motorcycle licence was required to ride one. Some people would use a moped to take their motorcycle licence riding test, and then go out and buy a "water-bus" the Suzuki 750cc triple cylinder water cooled motorbike which was popular at the time. (early 1970's). To restrict that happening, new motorcycle licence holders were restricted for the first 6 months to a maximum 250cc engine and 50 kmh / 30 mph max speed limit. Nowadays, in New Zealand, a person having just a car licence, is also allowed to ride a "moped" even one without pedals, that has the 60 kmh speed restriction fitted to it. In the Australian states it is different in every state. Some states require a motorcycle licence while some states allow low powered moped scooters to be ridden on a car licence. Some states have a specific "scooter" licence, which I think allows the higher power scooters up to 250cc engine, but ONLY if they have fully auto transmissions.
A Professional Landscaper Told Me That When They Accidentally Find A Find A Wasp Hole He Puts Mower On Top And Let’s It Suck For A Minute Or Two. Also They Cover Head To Toe Even In Hot Summer.
Many years ago I had a Raleigh RM5 Supermatic moped, which was very similar to this, and actually had exactly the same engine and transmission. The headlight was bright enough to ride on an unlit road at night. The bike could also carry two adults - just!
You don't really get a bean from that front light. 12V would be easier to find as a plug in, but 6V LED light 6W would give you better light than it originally had. 13W would give you a rough equivalence to a 60/55W halogen. Were the original lights bright enough to have a main and dip option? At 13W, I'd just sort a permanently dipped arrangement. If that is a 1959 original tungsten bulb, an easily available moped 40/45W moped halogen light would be an improvement.
Ah Wards Riverside remember it well. 1966 my first socket set was a Wards PowrKraft. Made in USA. Dad bought it for me so I could keep my old 57 Chevy going. My grandson still'll has the ratchet
It’s a motobecane AV89 luxe model , it has this special Orange color ( called « chaudron » in France ) and a mord powerful motor than the standard version . Yours si an early version from the 60´s . Behind the seat the frame is curve , after the frame is straight underground the seat .
Looks like a ton of fun! Welcome to motorized bicycling. Glad some people see the value in this kind of stuff and rescue something that would otherwise be lost forever.
