Grand Touring Concepts Channel - Come along for the ride as Darren and the GTC Team take you along on their journey through performance modification, racing, and car culture! From Russian Ladas to Modern Muscle, we are always on the lookout for vehicles, events, and tech to entertain and educate.
I thought it should have been faster but I’ve learned that good tires and suspension really put the power down, down side is with all that traction you can say bye bye to the t5 😂
My 2014 Mustang v6 convertible handles the winter just fine with a quality pair of snow tires and a couple of sandbags in the back for weight honestly half of the work is from the driver I have seen people driving an awd vehicle and sliding everywhere meanwhile i’m just cruising along safely because I know how to drive in snow and Michigan has harsh winters.
My 95 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT will not crank in park when I move it to neutral it starts up but now even in neutral I have to move the shifter back-and-forth before it will start up (PS there is no clicking sound at all) any help would be appreciated
Hi there! Your symptoms are a little different than those that this video works to address, but that said, I think you are close to discovering the source of your issue. Yours is a "no-crank, no-start" situation. It sounds like you have an automatic equipped car, and as a safety feature, these are setup not to engage the starter unless the transmission is in park or neutral. You've found a workaround by engaging neutral, which is a clue. You likely have an issue with a worn transmission range "selector/sensor", which could be a simple adjustment, or you may be in need of a new component. I don't have the diagnositic process in front of me, and have not handled one personally from experience. Try searching for transmission range selector adjustment AODE/4R70W and run through the checks you find. This should not be too big of an issue to figure out and get solved. Thanks for watching and commenting, and best of luck! - Darren.
If we get to the dizzy test and the tach does not move and the check engine light stays on when cranking.. is there still any chance that the problem might be something else then the pip in the distributor? Asking because we just changed the distributor and wondering if something else might be worth looking at..Thanks! Great video by the way! Cant wait to get more SN95 content!
Hi there, thanks for the support! When the check engine light stays on it is typically the PIP, but since you've changed the dizzy already it suggests it might not be the case. The wiring and connections related to the dizzy and signal to the PCM are another place to begin testing. Try to source a EVTM for 94/95 for the wiring pinouts. If you have trouble finding one I do have a digital version I can share. If you would be interested in that respond here and I can direct you to a FB page to get you connected.
I went down a rabbit hole looking for a cross over for you, but I can only find clutches or kits. It seems like it doesn't appear in Sachs or Luk catalogues any longer. I would look to having the original turned at a machine shop, or importing one from a vendor like Lada World or Lada Way, or Lada Moscow. This may prove challenging considering import restrictions that may or may not impact your shipment. Best of luck!
The only way I could think of would be to also install an adjustable cable and firewall adjuster then fine tune between the pedal height and making sure you get complete clutch disengagement during shifts. Otherwise the clutch pedal lands wherever it is adjusted for proper shifting and that's where it will be. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
cool mods, though i would never fully box do to weight. The control arms are already pretty strong, the main problem with the fox/sn95 chassis is the body flex. the Better control arm mod will be offset bushings, to move the control arm forward.
The old springs are for the self adjuster system for the plastic quadrant, you may discard the springs as they aren't used in a billet quadrant and firewall adjuster setup. -Darren
These are 8.8" rear axles, which is the case for all V8 Mustang's from 1985 to present. The factory gear ratio on this car was 2.73:1 and it's now a 3.73 which is a quite common aftermarket selection for these car and Foxes. Great question! Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
That's a pretty challenging thing to deal with for sure, I would begin with tracing the path of power with a test light or multimeter. Verify power at the battery, then move to the underhood fuse panel, then to the interior fuse block. It sounds like you've lost all power somewhere. Best of Luck!
In my experience the trick flow TW heads were terrible they always bend pushrods when you reved to the moon, BUT the AFR 165cc street heads were the BEST not only could you pass emissions but acted well with boost, but before that adding some 42lbs injectors, a 90mm PRO-M MAF, 75mm T-body, longTubes, 1.7 rocers,and a gt40 or explorer intake with gasket match porting and polishing w/ spacer, and upgraded fuel pump, and some donner parts from a 93 cobra 5.0 you get forged pistons mix that with some forge connecting shotpeened rods,and fabbing up the stock sterl crank knife egde and balancing it, add a ABC ford cam & pulleys matched with a beefed up T-5 5spd trans and you were easily hitting 400+HP with some light dyno tunning which was the limit for the stock block of the SN95 due to the block not having enough webbing unlike the older ones heck you would make a say trip to old Mexico wrecking yard and get a stock iron block from the old marquis that ford made for Mexican taxi fleet from the pre 80s that had way more lower valley webbing making them way stronger than a truck block and they could handle a bit over 800hp, but anyways, then you either had to make a choice of either going full 9" rear with a spool or taking that 8.8 and sleeving and trusting it and setting it with a pair of CrV shafts so your aftermarket pion gears would not break them teeth from the MUST have set of sticky icky ET drag street tires. Yes back then we had to mix and match like Legos 😂 but my old 94 GT vert ran the 1/4 12.4 @ just shy of 120mph if memory serves me right i do believe she had more but traction was not my besti.... power shifting my moded T5 and trying to keeping that old horse stright was tricky because i had NO ABS or Traction control but luckily i had a quick non hydro asist. steering R&P and that old pony had a tendency to whip sideways if you couldn't handle her! She was PURE RAW POWER not like the 2.5-3 ton boats nowadays filled to the brim with traction,body,ABS power modules that give the false impression that YOU can drive like Gone in 60 seconds Nicolas Cage 😂NO my pony was lean tipping a CAT scales wet at 3,400lbs of course i did some trimming and gutting of things i did need, but anywho.. i got kicked out at my local drag strip because i didn't have a cage nor helmet or fire extinguisher so in essence i got kicked out for being too fast 😂😂12s may not be considered fast by todays standards but 20 something years ago i could beat almost every stock sports cars at the stop light. Yeah those were some good 'ol memories
On some models like my 95 Mustangs GT the CCRM also controls the A/C compressor clutch. On mine everything else worked properly but the compressor clutch would not engage. After closer inspection of the CCRM I found that the connector on the module was cracked and the relay for the compressor clutch wasn’t functioning so I replaced the CCRM which corrected the issue.
Hey guys! Damn I thought you guys were out of the game completely. It's been soo long. Super excited that you are making content again. Huge welcome back.
It's always been a passion of our to make fun automotive content, but the real challenge can be to find the time to put it all together. Looking to change that this year. How are things in the car scene down in SA?
You must be at a higher elevation for those low numbers. My 1995 GT with 3.73, T5, Mac Long tubes & H-Pipe with 3 chamber flow Masters and under drive pulleys ran 14.1 at 99MPH with crappy kuhmo tires. I see he changed the CAM. You must tune this car when you change the CAM in order to wake up the performance.
You got it right on with the elevation, 4,300 ft or so on this test. It does take a huge toll on the performance of a NA engine. Using the Dragtimes DA correction calculator, If the run were at sea-level it would have potentially ran 13.6 @105. This car is tuned for the cam of course. Our own 1995 GTS with similar mods to your car ran 89 MPH at our local track back in 2005, again, altitude penalty. Thanks for commenting!
Magazine tests back in the day report a 15.2 at 89.6 MPH, for a stock unit. You're the first to ask about run details before rendering judgement which we are glad to see! This run had some conditions, the effective altitude (DA) was around 4,300 ft, and this pass had the test driver and a Dragy operator (passenger). Using the Dragtimes DA correction calculator, If the run were at sealevel it would have potentially ran 13.6 @105. Dropping the passenger could have resulted in another tenth or two, or +2 MPH for this run. -Darren
Thats or dozens and dozens of Summit racing stickers maybe. Sticker-bomb an entire fender with Summit to let everyone know we're serious! LOL, Thanks for watching and commenting!
This one is hampered by elevation, 4,300 ft or so on this test, is the big factor. It does take a huge toll on the performance of a NA engine. Using the Dragtimes DA correction calculator, if the run were at sea-level it would have potentially ran 13.6 @105.
I figured it would have been faster. Maby it needed a cam? I stroked my 94 to 331 with all the bolt ons as well. Haven't taken it to the track, but in the dyno, it made 368hp and 398tq at the rear wheels.
This one has a TFS Stage 1 cam and the car runs well enough, but the elevation and density altitude is the killer to NA power here. The elevation, 4,300 ft or so on this test. It does take a huge toll on the performance of a NA engine. Using the Dragtimes DA correction calculator, If the run were at sea-level it would have potentially ran 13.6 @105. This car dynoed about 285 to the tire some years ago if our notes are correct. I think that 331 of yours should certainly run hard. Thanks for commenting!
We were initially skeptical of such a cheap race logger like Dragy, but it's very close, within a tenth or so and less than 1 MPH out. Thanks for supporting the channel and glad we can entertain!
We did touch on this in a channel update back in 2020, but here's a quick recap. We ran the IVAN2104 project from 2017 until 2019 when the car and spares were moved on to another owner in the region. We began to experience serious supply issues with transit times shipping parts, and the downtime was getting very tough to work around. I kept track of the car for another year on social media, but it's dropped out of view. Who knows where it will pop up next? There was a number of times we were contacted to sell and export to the US when the cars were high demand with niche enthusiasts, maybe it went there? Thanks for watching and commenting, hopefully you've enjoyed the series and adventures we had with it. - Darren
Hi there GPZ_Biker! We ran the IVAN2104 project from 2017 until 2019 when the car and spares were moved on to another owner in the region. We began to experience serious supply issues with transit times shipping parts, and the downtime was getting very tough to work around. I kept track of the car for another year on social media, but it's dropped out of view. Who knows where it will pop up next? There was a number of times we were contacted to sell and export to the US when the cars were high demand with niche enthusiasts, maybe it went there? Thanks for watching and commenting, hopefully you've enjoyed the series and adventures we had with it. - Darren
@GrandTouringConcepts Hi, Thanks very much for the reply. I really did enjoy watching the series. Like I commented on one of the other videos, my parents had a 1980's yellow estate which I drove and abused back then. Watching your videos brought back a lot of memories. You guys had a great style. I try some of your other videos. Take care and thanks again
It's bee a minute hasn't it? We've been plenty busy over the years, but haven't stopped filming, just haven't been able to catch up to produce. We are getting back into the groove and are truly appreciative of the continued support and patience from subscribers like you. - Darren
Hi... great video and valuable information here! Thanks for putting this together. I just purchased an '03 Lightning and wanted to ask where you purchased your SVT IAT1/2 gauge from? I would like to have this installed into my pillar.
I got my SVT IAT gauge from the vendor that sells the basic kit. They are called Aeroforce Interceptor Scangage, google them up! You would have to check their site, but they offer the SVT logo as part of their Accesories, look under that menu, check Ford, and select SVT. They appear to still list at $10. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
