Agree! That has been 100% my experience with aftermarket CDI boxes, Coils, and other High Performance solutions. So much marketing is put towards stuff that is less reliable that OEM. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
Can you tell me what's wrong with my 95 GT mustang 5.0 it'll run sometime it'll cut off then it won't crank back up I come back and let it cool over whatever and go back to it and it will crack up and run I can go wherever I want to go where it don't do it all the time can you tell me what is that problem
The issue with my car I can drive it sometime it'll cut off while I'm driving when I come to a complete stop I try to crank it again and it just turn so I come back later and try to crank it and it will crank up and run I'm trying to find out what is that problem
The issue could be a variety of things, the next time it happens, follow the diagnostic process exactly as it is in the video and you'll be able identify the failing part. If you test when car is running you will not be able to detect the failing part, of course if you don't run though this test, no one will be able to tell you what is causing the issue without expensive guessing. Best of Luck! - Darren
Thanks very much, glad to have such positive feedback! Be sure to suggest it to anyone you can think of that might benefit from the video. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
I had a failing PIP on my '95 GTS and it would periodically no start when warm. Very frustrating. This is great info that should really help people in the future!
What is the pip wire. Whats the pip stand for. having the same issue with mine not starting fresh tune up started fine for a week then 1 night it sat and now it won't start. Turns over check engine light stays on but won't fire
😊 thank you 🙏 I, after three days of testing I , with your help identified that there was a problem with TFI ( ignition control module ). Coil was good and fuel pump was working
I had that exact experience while working on a friend's car once, it would start and run for 5 seconds then cut out. It was many years ago and I didn't have access to diagnostic knowledge like this, so we had to work a lot harder to find the failing Crane ignition. I have two Mallory ignition boxes that failed early and gave a lot of trouble. Glad we were able to save you some time, money, and frustration. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
Recently began to experience this problem. My 1995 GT has a thing where it'll turn on fine (cold). Then I'll drive around town for about 20 -30 minutes. If I shut off the car then try to start it up again - nothing. No crank, no clicks - only the lights in the dash turn on. I'll let it cool for about 20-30 minutes and she'll start right up again. I replaced the original alternator and water pump (which needed to replaced anyway) as well as distributor cap, rotor, coil, and TFI module. All parts were original and I used Motorcraft replacement parts for all except for the water pump which has been discontinued, unfortunately. Took the car for a test drive and she started right up BUT after driving around town for about 30 minutes I stopped at a Sunoco gas station to fill up. When I got back in the car to leave - NOTHING... again. I called up my mechanic and he asked me to try to something. He instructed me to put the key in the on position and switch gears from the Park position to Drive and then try to turn on the car. I did that. It turned on. He said.... "You've got a bad neutral safety switch." Makes sense.
I’ve been looking everywhere for a video like this! And it’s for my year mustang. Thank you! My check engine light stays on when cranking and there’s no RPMs. I googled that it can be the crank shaft sensor. I’m guessing that’s in the distributor.
That is correct, it is called the PIP, or pick-up or hall-effect sensor. Replace it with a Motorcraft branded sensor from a reputable source, and re-run the tests. Chances are you will have solved the issue. Thank you for watching and commenting! - Darren
The problem is a pip circuit problem. Change the pick up in the distributor. I went through this shit back in 2000. A ford dealership had my car for 4 months before they got it right
A video on how to remove a 5.0 engine would awesome if you guys ever have a reason to do it (: i wanna pull mine out and change everything i can to make it reliable
If we get to the dizzy test and the tach does not move and the check engine light stays on when cranking.. is there still any chance that the problem might be something else then the pip in the distributor? Asking because we just changed the distributor and wondering if something else might be worth looking at..Thanks! Great video by the way! Cant wait to get more SN95 content!
Hi there, thanks for the support! When the check engine light stays on it is typically the PIP, but since you've changed the dizzy already it suggests it might not be the case. The wiring and connections related to the dizzy and signal to the PCM are another place to begin testing. Try to source a EVTM for 94/95 for the wiring pinouts. If you have trouble finding one I do have a digital version I can share. If you would be interested in that respond here and I can direct you to a FB page to get you connected.
It was a good video on diagnosing electrical problems that cause no-start problem, but what about fuel? I would have expected some talk about listening for the fuel pump to prime when turning the key and maybe even measuring fuel pressure or confirming that the injectors were getting signaled.
In this case it's all in the title. This video is of a very specific scope which is the most common of issue with the 94/95 Mustang, a No Start resulting from a No Spark condition. A no fuel condition is far less common and far easier to diagnose using common troubleshooting practices that are not specific to SN95's only. This video is the protocol for the unique EEC 4 94/95 TFI ignition. It also applies to SEFI Foxes although some parts are in different locations.
That's a pretty challenging thing to deal with for sure, I would begin with tracing the path of power with a test light or multimeter. Verify power at the battery, then move to the underhood fuse panel, then to the interior fuse block. It sounds like you've lost all power somewhere. Best of Luck!
I swapped a 3.8 for a 5.0. Changed ECU and wiring harness. Got a 5.0 bellhousing and new clutch cable, clutch and PP and 157 tooth flywheel. But the car isn't cranking over,just a humming noise. Is there a different starter for a manual 5.0?
My 95 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT will not crank in park when I move it to neutral it starts up but now even in neutral I have to move the shifter back-and-forth before it will start up (PS there is no clicking sound at all) any help would be appreciated
Hi there! Your symptoms are a little different than those that this video works to address, but that said, I think you are close to discovering the source of your issue. Yours is a "no-crank, no-start" situation. It sounds like you have an automatic equipped car, and as a safety feature, these are setup not to engage the starter unless the transmission is in park or neutral. You've found a workaround by engaging neutral, which is a clue. You likely have an issue with a worn transmission range "selector/sensor", which could be a simple adjustment, or you may be in need of a new component. I don't have the diagnositic process in front of me, and have not handled one personally from experience. Try searching for transmission range selector adjustment AODE/4R70W and run through the checks you find. This should not be too big of an issue to figure out and get solved. Thanks for watching and commenting, and best of luck! - Darren.
94 gt cranking issue, new distributor, new tfi module, coil checked on another vehicle. The cars check engine light stays on while cranking, and test light will not flash.
Either the new distributer is no good, (it happens) or the wiring for the PIP needs to be inspected and tested. Find a copy of the EVTM and run through those tests next.
Ok so my check engine light stayed on, and my red light stayed on also when checking the tfi module. So I guess change my distributor first then go from there or change my tfi module 1st and go from there? 😆 idknow. Either way I'm getting no spark from distributer or coil.
94 5.0L mustang. Problem is hard to start. But when it does or with a shot of ether, it seems to run good for a few seconds and then i the engine will drop and I see the rpm gauge go to 0. And back up. After a few times like this the rpm goes to 0 and engine stops. Its like you are turning the key on and off. No spark no fuel. It justs stops. After a few trys to start it will run and then the rpm goes from 2,000 to 0, car shuts off and the rpm goes back to 2,000 and motor runs again. Could this be the key switch or crankshaft sensor???. Bad ecm What would shut the motor off and back on like this. Is there a relay that could be bad??? Any help needed with a thank you.
These cars don't have a crankshaft sensor, its a PIP in the dizzy. Only way to isolate the problem is the next time it fails is to follow this proceedure step-by-step and you'll have it pretty quickly. It's an easy set of tests, anything else would just be guessing.
@@GrandTouringConcepts I did what is in this post. It all checks ok. New coil, new distributor, new tfi, new ignition switch. The only thing not new is computer and camshaft sensor. Could this be a ground problem???
Man I am stumped. 1995 ford mustang gt 5.0. When I first got it, the thing would run but run like it’s about to die. Changed spark plugs and now it won’t even run. Gapped plugs to .52ish like it calls for. When I turn the key the in line spark tester illuminates very dimly (without cranking) and I can here a little clicking noise. When I remove the spout plug it goes away. I did the self test with the key on and cranking and the check engine light doesn’t go away. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Based on your statement about the cranking test, the CEL does not go out during cranking. This demonstrates that the ECU is not getting cranking signal from the PIP. This points me towards troubleshooting the distributer, PIP, and associated wiring. If the ECU does not get a PIP signal it will not know when to trigger the spark, or fire the injectors correctly. When they fail it is generally slow and progressive, rough running, or shutting down when warm, to finally a dead-no-start condition. This is where I would begin.
This is a rare occurance for sure, idling fine with two dead holes seems to be a contradiction. My pathway would be to start at the plugs and wires and work from there. Move the plugs and wires from the dead cylinders to the live cylinders and recheck for spark. If the dead cylinders changed, replace the plugs and wires. If it did not, check the dizzy cap and rotor, try a different set and observe for change. If you still do not have spark on 1&3, check to verify the injector is firing, you should be able to learn if this is a secondary voltage, (spark output) issue or something on the primary spark triggering. You may also want to look up how to do the built in cylinder balance test for these cars, it might help you with getting the issue solved. - Darren
What if the check engine light just dims during cranking? No communication with svan tool, pcm have powers, grounds and 5v references all working but no comm. Just crank no start
I have a 97 gt. It’s been doing this the last 3 days. I would go to start it and nothing but there is strong battery. It would click then seems like the battery is dead. I jumped it and it started. Next day same thing but it started on the 3rd try battery was fine. Not sure if it’s the battery or the starter.
It sounds like from your description that you have a different issue than this video covers. Yours is a "No Crank" condition where you are reporting issues with the starter system. The good news is that this diagnostic process is not unique to the SN95, and standard practices apply. I recommend checking google, or a manual for how to move ahead. It *sounds* like the starter *may* be sticking and *may* need replacement, but be sure to do all of the proper checks of the battery, cables, and starter before loading the parts shotgun and blasting a paycheck down range. Thanks for watching and commenting, and the best of luck! - Darren
I have a friends 95 gt that he said just stopped running. I can't communicate through the underhood connector. The ecu has power going to ecu pins 37,57. Has 5v reference on pin 26, and has grounds. The cel is on with koeo, when cranking the cel does not turn off. The fuel pump is also not coming on. Wgreen key is on the blue/org wire at the ccrm is showing .1v but constantly going between that and ground when checking with power probe. Any ideas on this? All the diagnostic trees point at bad ecu, and fuel pump but ive never seen a ecu that's bad and still have good reference voltage
I checked with Ted of Tuning Innovations on this one and he assesses that there is an issue with the PIP signal. He doesn't think its related to the EEC. PIP output can be checked with an oscilloscope and with the CEL staying on its failed the quick test. EEC doesn't know the engine is turning or turning fast enough to switch into run mode.
I have a problem I need help with P L E A S E !!! I have spark from my coil wire to the distributor, as per my induction style timing light. I DO NOT have ANY spark going through ANY of the spark plug wires, to the spark plugs. Again. As per my induction style timing light. HELLLLP !
If you have spark from the coil, this should be pretty easy. You may have a defective dizzy cap or rotor. These are quite affordable to swap another on. But if you just want to check, run a digital meter and check for continuity from the top of the center stud to the underside, the do the same on the rotor, the springy bit to the plug side. You can also clean the contacts with some sandpaper and retest.
Next I would verify spark from the coil in a slightly different way. Rather than the inductive light, install a spark tester (or just a good plug if you don't have a tester) and place it near a good ground. Then crank the engine, look for a good strong rapid spark. If it isn't bright blue and very consistant, you may have a weak or failing coil.
I have a 1995 mustang gt, my car used to cut off while driving and sometimes wouldnt start at all, but now it doesnt start, my fans just kick on and it cranks, sometimes the fans will turn off and then car will turn on but instantly shuts off, any help please
Just removed smog pump and added catless x pipe. Other then cai and 75mm tb car is stock. Do you have a fix for stalling after hot restart? Cold start is fine. After restarting, car dies unless i feather gas untill it corrects its self.
Hello David, I can't say that remote diagnostics is something we specialize in however, the modifications you have made if done correctly probably shouldn't cause any issues. If I were to start, how did you seal the smog pump ports in the rear of the cylinder head? If you left the check valve in place, it is a good idea to apply a plug at that point to prevent a possible vacuum leak. If that is all good and leak free, I would inspect the CAI, if the MAF or other sensors has been moved sometimes (rare) that can cause issues. Depending on what throttle body you used, and it's condition can be another source of issues. Visit www.tuning-innovations.com and ask for a base idle reset instructional and try that. If you have a BBK or other low cost throttle body, in my experience the IAC valves are unreliable, you can try the one from your original TB and redo the base idle reset proceedure. Depending on the tools you have available, you might be down to simply re-installing the OE parts one-by-one until the gremlin is resolved. Best to go back and recheck all the installation work along the way. If it worked well before, you know that it's something related to the new work. When I did my Smog delete over 15 years ago, there was no change to the driveability. CAI's and TBs are also generally trouble free, but can cause trouble depending on what they are and how they are done. Best Luck, I am sure you'll be able to track it down. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
I would try the base idle reset process and see if it corrects the issue. There is some adjustment in those and it might be the issue. It would do no harm certainly. Aside from that, I would be retracing my steps through the install looking for something missed, or restore the factory TB and recheck.
