China is of course a huge country with a huge population. They are a very capable country. Their drone technology, for example, is the best in the world. But these small excavators are woefully lacking. Not everyone has the time, skills, and tools to rectify the engineering problems on these machines. Not knocking your decision at all.
You wrote this comment on a device made in China. 🤦♂️ I don’t think anyone would prefer a Chinese machine over a caterpillar or John Deere but when the price difference means you can expand your business, it’s a no brainier.
@@AverageFox7 @TLARinc If you don't need one this big, you can outfit an H15 similarly for under half of that. Of course, it's a "1.5" instead of a "4.5", but mine works quite well, and I haven't needed to add coolers - BUT - I am at 8600' where the EPA carb jet is actually OK, so the 420cc engine is not running so lean it'll grenade years before it should. SO - replace the carb with an adjustable one before doing much else (unless you're also in thin air). My head temp has never gone above 275F, but I hear some real horror stories from flatlanders. What I think is the BIG takeaway from this is the track roller mod. I've only "almost" lost a track once - but I keep tension good, and pay attention, so all I had to do was reverse and it slid right back over the idler in just a few inches. WHEW! I am going to look at my rollers. It's a different (lighter) chassis, but the same as most of the 1-1.5 machines, so your idea could go gold!
Awesome series, I learned more here than Fusion 360 courses online. Would have been great if you could have continued the series with a few more cabinets like drawer cabinet to see how you tie them into this project, I guess using Assembly feature of fusion 360.
How do you create a on and off toggle button. I know enough to do basic screen edit but don't know how to make a script for something new. Any advice would be appreciated.
Man that is an awesome build, love all the old iron. That building is what dreams are made of, looks like some old auto parts manufacture you'd see in Detroit.
@TLAR I hope all is well with the family. This was an amazing Fursion360 cabinet series. You were very easy to follow along with and explained everything very well. Thank you!!!!
I see a common thread in a lot of these videos where a dado is modeled at the very first sketch before the body is extruded. I commend you all for your foresight in knowing ahead of time exactly where that part is going! At this point in my limited experience, I don't always know where I am going with a design, so I can't place the dado in the initial sketch. Instead, When I get to the point of having the intersecting part figured out, I just go ahead and design it to overlap, and use the combine tool to remove the dado slot (keeping the part "tool"). I think it ends up in the same place with a perfect fit. Is there any reason not to use this process instead?
incredible series !!! thank you very much !! subscribed to your channel ... how would you go about making a cabinet that has just drawers ? do you make one and then copy each drawer ? cheers !!
These videos are amazing! I was excited to see your parametric modeling for face frames (which I almost always use) and would love to see a video on adding them.
Very cool videos, I learned a lot! How can you make the drawings without using Mapboards Pro? I mean a list of boards to cut, so I can give them to my woodsupplier (does not have cnc cutters, just cuts each board with a saw machine)
Thanks for the great content. I personally learnt a lot from this cabinet making series, can't wait to reach the final video and see how to program it for a CNC machine.
Hi, Great video! I'll be doing this to my machine for sure! I like that wireless pendent you have. One question on it, can it enable the machine remotely from the pendent?
This was very helpful. I am a total noob, but got it to work to have a "load Sheet" position. Like others have stated, I used G53 with I think is what you want, I also copy/pasted some code from "ReturnToPosition" function so Mach4 would check to see if the machine was homed before it moved. Thank you!
Wish we could have went into the material and appearance but great series. Also wish we would have made raised panel doors because that seems like it could be tricky we did not really do anything with curved edges.
nice to meet you. I am also using Mach4. I have copied and pasted your program. Next, I used Mach4's MDI, but the milling machine did not work. Please tell me how to deal with it.
I have watched so many fusion videos, but got things very complicated by the time I got to making drawers and doing face spacings. You have shown some of the tools I am aware of but didn't remember how to apply them for my situation. This video is awesome. I have watched the F360 beginner courses and many tool how to's but this one puts it all together.
Amazing Videos, I am watching this series for fifth time. Thanks for it. The question is, I did not catch the creation of MAP folder, and Map parameters. What is that MAP?
Nice job. I have used this method since I got my 4x8 CNC a couple of years ago. After I check my X, Y and Z, I also check the diagonal using the 3,4,5 method. I found my gantry was out. I think this is very important if you want to get square cuts.
THat looks like the bed of a semi not a CNC machine:) I just followed your Fusion video's and would like to see you do some more of that as your pretty good at it. I also have an Avid that I just turned into a 5x10 and its a good machine but you are correct on the gap for a hobbyist to purchase
Thank you for this series. It was very well put together. A bit fast in pace for newbies, but that is what the pause button is for. I appreciate Fusion 360 so much. It can be daunting because there are multiple ways to do things. I found myself, "Why didn't he do this, or that." But in the end you got what you wanted. That's what counts. Thank you again. I wish we all had the space and money for a CNC machine. To heck with those table saws! God Bless your family!
Hello Tlar, I have the same machine running on Tollpath. I saw a different software you are using so the video doesn't respond to my question: I got error code 803 that I cannot find in manual. Trying to fix the issue I change home position and didn't kept the original settings. Now I'm stuck with and trying to find information about how to fix this code. May be you can help? Thank you in advance!
Hi TLAR, I am following your videos to create a subwoofer enclosure. When I mirrored the Side panel like you did using the construction planes the 2 panels are still "linked" somehow so when I select one the other is selected too. Yours don't seem to be like that. Mine are nested under the "side panel" component. I make each panel a component from a body.
Hey if you know what it means, that's all that matters. Your can also fix or change the name of the parameter at any time. Anything using that parameter will also update.
Do you lose a lot of vacuum once you get that low to the spoil board? I think I usually just get it down to about 0.2” before I take it off. I’d glue the board like you do but on our shop Sabre we have to do an override to mill down to the vacuum table surface because it’s something like 80 inches of surface you should never actually touch. I’ll try your method at home. I’ve seen people glue it before you but I just thought that vacuum would weaken significantly after about 1/8” of an inch.
@15:50 If you wanted the drawer front to have a 1/32" gap from the top and fall in the middle of the horizontal divider, would you add 1/32" in the dimensioning instead of subtracting it? This way the distance from the top to the mid line would be 6" for the drawer front and an additional 1/32" gap for the space.
To set the steps per unit on our stacker cranes (a 18m tall crane that runs between 2 racks and stores/picks boxes into/from these racks automatically), we do exactly the same. We don't move it forward 1 meter and measure to calibrate it, we take the full 78 meter long aisle to calibrate the encoder pulses. We start from the zero-point on the rail and take a note about the current encoder pulses. Then we move it 78m further and check how far off we are from the 78m mark on the rail. We also note those encoder pulses, then move it by hand until it's exactly on the 78m line. Then recalculate the encoder pulses. I still gotta do this calibration of my cnc as I have a deviation of 2-3mm over the course of the total 80cm my machine can move. But for some simple signs, it wasn't really required to have those accurate to the millimeter.
Hi, I want to purchase CNC at the hobby level, and I want to be able to make my own kitchen cabinets and more. I want to be able to load 4 by 8 sheets. Which brand and software do you recommend? I appreciate your help.
You need to add an over cut, often called a dog bone. Fusion has plugins to do this. Most CAM software will also have this ability which is where I chose to do it. It's probably better to do it during design though, so you don't forget.
