You are the expert. I wonder... do you think there is any risk or issue running such a large diameter tool on a mill with such small shaft / bearings etc.? I was thinking there may be a reason Proxxon limited the tools to 3mm in diameter? I am genuinely interested because I need something like this for my ff250bl. Nice job!
For sure this mill was never designed to run tools like this. But on aluminum it works perfectly with 0.1 cut. But take in mind that on my mill is a lot of other modifications that make it possible.
Здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста, что это за версия станка? Сколько не смотрел в интернете, у всех станков mf70 алюминиевый столик с тонкими стенками и открытыми солазками поперечной подачи. А у вас какая-то другая Конструкция и судя по цвету, столик стальной.
I had the same printer and I was never satisfied with it. I modified everything. All fans new and more quiet. All bearings from misumi because after some time they were shaky. Then different hotend (e3d V6 clone) because of continuous under extrusion. Then direct extruder because I could. Then BL Touch because buildplate is not flat. Then vanilla marlin firmware because it's adjustable the way I like it. Then mini 12864 display (without touch) because I have more firmware settings that I can adjust than with the touch display. Then tmc2208 stepper drivers because the original are so loud. Then I changed the board to skr because I wanted 32 bit and marlin 2. And then wanted to get rid of that disgusting metal frame and replaced it with a full bear frame and printed all the bear frame parts and bought missing parts to make it almost like a Prusa. Then I replaced the tmc2208 with tmc2209 so I can have sensorless homing. I also exchanged the power adapter and build my own heatbed with 6 mm aluminium and magnetic build plates. The result is a printer that is better then the Prusa mk 3s+ and even has input shaping. I would never buy a anycubic I3 Mega again. I just had problems with it. And in the end I put more money into it than if I had bought a Prusa from the beginning. The anycubic was just a journey and adventure for me to learn about technology of 3d printing. But never a reliable machine until i had completely rebuild it.
Hello Sir. Me again.. Coming along with the build. Now stuck as I can find the rubber grommet for the rear body mount. Do you remember what bag you found it in or was it even of the plastic trees but I assume it's rubber? Thank you!
The small plastic insert on a top of a shock is pretty hard to insert. You need to press it inside, but carefully not to broke. I'm using pillars there usually.
@@zhadlun phew.. That was a tough one but copied based on your video, push with hex tool lol.. Not even with the proper tool, I can't get the turnbuckle balls in the rod ends. What am I doing wrong ?.. I'm squeezing with all my might hehe..
@@zhadlun Thank you.. I have two wish list groups @ Amainhobbies, one nitro other electric. I've tried both years ago and can't decide which one to jump into. First Kit here other than Tamiya's back in the day. Would love to hear your opinion re nitro vs electric... I plan to run either the reds .21 with exhause combo vs the hobbwing 1900v esc and motor combo :)
@@MrDucatiti Nitro is a difficult story in general. Also I would recommend to go for OS based engine if you want nitro, they are much more easy in setup. If you run only a club races, maybe electric will be better choice. Also it's very much depends on a cars that used by other drivers in your region. If the RC hobby is new for you, I would go for electric car.
@@zhadlun Advice well taken.. Just checked out with a RC8B4.1 and OS Speed 21 AD3, among a long list of parts and tools.. So excited. Only reason I'm confident of this build is because of your videos.. Thank you !
@@zhadlun So basically, if you replace the hollow column with a solid steel rod, replace the drill chuck with a collect chuck and add support to the moving platform, you get a mill, correct?
Hello again. Ihave a question?: Can you say me please: 1-how much is the diameter? 2- how many mm is the slut in the middle ( place for tool) 3- how many mm you cutted from the edge wher the screws are? Thank you and Best regards
Hi The shaft is 7mm, the tool body is near 25mm, the slot is 6mm. For the screws on the edge I cut just enough for them to screw and hide in a tool. The thread is near 6mm long.
Hi, I've one question to you because I'm not able to do all this upgrading job. I see that everybody is modifying this Proxxon MF 70 milling machine. Is it so important to do this upgrade? Is it a shitty product coming out the box? Thank you
Hello Why you don’t use vise? This is not safe job. You can make 2 peaces very small V-blocks ( 3x2) w(1 or 0/5) cm Then you will use of them not only for some jobs like this,also they can be very useful tools for ather jobs that you need to cut in angle. Also you can do the bottom of the blocks with half circle then you will have very special tools that you had never seen before. Best regards
@zhadlun Hi Volodymyr, I'm an absolute beginner in turning, so my question is possibly naive... I'm interested in implementing a DRO for my small lathe, so I was watching your interesting video, but some doubts arised. About the positioning of the Z axis sensor, I understand this is the standard choice, but this leaves undetected all movements made with the compound cross-slide. And yes, I understand that a diagonal arrangement of the cross slide implies a combination of X and Z travel, and this could be tricky to show (and to read) But in my case, I don't do tapers (not yet...) and thus I keep the cross slide exactly aligned to the Z direction, and I'm using it for small Z movements since I find it more precise and smooth compared to the Z handweel, but this would obviously defeat the Z readout, thus it looks like I'll have to refrain from using the cross slide in DRO mode... So, is there a possible workaround for this, like using a third sensor for the cross slide and a 3-axis DRO? Could it make sense, or am I overlooking / overcomplicating something? ☺ Thank you! Roberto
Yes it's possible to use 3 axis DRO. And even some displays could combine values from both sensors and show them as 1. And if you have a place for 3rd sensor, go for it.
What a great job you done with your DRO, WOULD you be prepare to share your STL files for the various parts you make, I have same DRO on order at present and I could get the parts printed by my good friend
Hello and thank you for this video. On aliexpress, it is indicated that these magnetic rulers are intended for working with wood and stone. Don't steel shavings stick to the magnetic strip?
I bought them some time ago, will need to found updated links to a products. You could just look for er11 collet with 10mm shaft 150mm long. Endmills, any with coating would work.
Saudações do Brasil meu amigo! Gosto muito do seu conteúdo... Qual adaptação preciso fazer na MF70 para que possa usar fresas padrões de 4mm de espessura?
Thanks for the video. I have two thoughts on why the mini DRO was inaccurate. The sensors work by creating an electromagnetic field at the reading surface and then detecting changes in this field due to the magnetic zones in the strip. My best guess about the inaccuracy is this. The aluminium , while not magnetic, is still a conductor and will distort the sensor's electromagnetic field. Because the aluminium is close to the sensor on three sides, i think this would be a worst-case scenario for distorting the field. Also possible is that the magnetic strip has manufacturing faults. Note that replacing the electronics and sensors won't fix either of these faults. I bought one of these mini DRO devices and mine works fine on the bench. I think your original mounting arrangement was good. I am going to copy your design but use pvc channel instead of aluminium.
I made so much tests there, and only one think is a firmware itself. I was even change sensor on a board, and still the same channel was wrong on a same places of magnetic strip. So a problem exactly with a board itself or firmware on a board.
I’ve heard it’s bad magnetic tape on these. I’ll find out when my new tape arrives. Too late for me to send it back 😢 Maybe I should just buy this other type like yours? I can’t afford the £500 ones that everyone recommends, that’s just crazy for a mini lathe.
@@zhadlundo you have a link? I can only find the listing for the display unit, but not including the scales? Or did you buy these parts separately? I think I will give up on the cheaper version, as you have. I don’t think it’s going to work, but this one looks much better.
I bought one of these, I fitted it yesterday & it’s useless! 😢 I’ve tried everything to get it to read correctly but it’s just hopeless. I’ve heard the magnetic tape they supply isn’t great so I’ve ordered some new tape from a UK supplier. Unfortunately I bought it ages ago so I can’t send it back, hopefully the new tape will work.
hi Volodymyr! what kind of spindle is that, some custom thing? out of the box these machines come with something called MICROMOT, which can accommodate up to 1/8" shank, and your end mill is quite obviously bigger than that. I'm considering getting one for myself, but 3.2mm shank is too wimpy, so I'm a little bit confused whether it's worth it or not. P.S. все буде Україна!
Hi. It's a custom ER11 spindle. Basically from original machine not so much left. I would say, if you need to work from a box I would buy something bigger initially. P.S Дякую!
I was able to get an ER-16 spindle with 10mm x 150mm length. That has all of the same dimensions as the ER-11 spindle that you've used but can accommodate a 3/8" diameter cutter.@@zhadlun I am also installing the spindle with a double row sealed angular contact bearing in the bottom position (10x19x7mm- #3800-RS). That may get a machined bearing retainer that bolts in at the bottom too but I haven't completed the conversion yet. I am following your basic approach but with some modifications including a slightly larger sensored motor with a higher KV and up to 25:1 compound belt reduction so I can still have the nominal 20,000 max RPM but with a belt and pulley change can get down as low as the 400-800 RPM range for the larger cutters. I am yet to find what your final reduction was. I suspect it's in one of the posts but I couldn't find it.
