Sharing work & projects I do at home in the garage or driveway; builds, repairs, fabrication, mostly trucks but there may be some equipment, motorcycles and small engines sprinkled in there too. Take a seat and browse through my content, you are sure to find something that will strike your interest.
If you have subscribed thank you!! If you haven't subscribed, get going and smash that button!!
In engineering terms, a chassic is a beam, like a bridge. The most stressed part of a beam is the top and bottom sections, separated by a web matrix. In your repair, the fysh plate adds little strength to the beam, as the stresses run lengthways above and below the plate. A small plate welded inside the top and bottom of the overlap would be all that is needed. Cheers
I appreciate the suggestion! 2 years has passed and it's been holding up really well, if I ever break the truck down again to paint the frame I'll add some plate to the top and bottom flange. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share your experience!
I want to drop my pressure, I think my P-Pump is having trouble with the 42psi it's old and tired and seems to be leaking and blending diesel into the engine oil. If I shim the spring tighter, or stronger, do you think it would drop the pressure? I'm hoping for something in the 25-32psi range.
You just need the bypass spring to open sooner and allow the fuel to return to the tank. You would need a softer spring to accomplish that. I am sure you could call fass and let them know what pressure you need and they probably make a spring that's rated for what you need.
@@frostydoesit I called them today and the tech support guy that answered the phone didn't have an answer. He said he could sell me a regulator. So I took the spring out and clipped 1/2 of a ring off the end of it, made sure the cut end was the end inside the fitting for stability, put it back together and voila 30psi.
The cutoff wheel ate right through it, I think the ranger frame was 1/8". I do have a torch and plasma but the cutoff wheel really was the right choice for me. I had two frames that I needed to duplicate the cut perfectly on. If I were cutting something heavier than 1/8" I'd agree with you on the torch
Great work man 👏👏👏 💯 most of all beautiful Family your daughter is adorable man !!! I have 6 kids myself Sarting from 19 all the way down too 4 .... 😂😁😐 19 yesr old son 16 year old daughter 15 year old son 13 year old daughter 8 year old daughter 4 year old son ! The wife and I are a blended family which we make it work well and the 4 year old is our nephew however we have had him since he was a baby little sis struggling with drug abuse. !!! Anyways thabks for taking us along love the videos
Thanks so much for the kind words and I am glad that you enjoy the videos I make. I have been daily driving this truck lately, I am about to make a follow up video on it soon!
it's 1/8" thick, it welded great. Frame was prepped to shiny metal where I welded, video didn't show it that well but 2 years later I daily it every day and it's perfect! Thanks for watching!
I always run synthetic in my cars and trucks & change oil and filter every 5000 miles. Everyone has their own way of doping what they feel is right. I am a believer that good oil and frequent changes are the best thing you can do for an engine.
@frostydoesit me to man...I work on riding mowers and it drives me nuts how much people don't care. I tell every one oil is the #1 maintenance you should think about.
I have not! This little hyster only has a 1700lb lift @ 24in. If and when I need to pull one of my super duty cabs I'll put a forklift on either side of it, I have another small old Yale as well. I have pulled an OBS crewcab with 2 engine hoists, that was pretty sketch.
I have a 7.3 superduty and did this mod but my fuel pressure didn’t change at all. I have a driven diesel regulated fuel return and I can’t get above 45psi at the pump and under the hood at the regulator. Brand new warranty’d pump too. Any advice ?
You could try shimming the spring so that it can't open the relief/return as far. I guess that's what I would try. Make sure you are also getting an unrestricted flow from the tank to the pump. I put a bottom sump in my tank with 1/2" line as the supply to my fass. Why do you have a driven diesel regulated return setup when your fass is self regulated and returns to the tank? Your setup doesn't sound ideal for what you are trying to accomplish.
I am sure there are a ton of guys down in Texas that could help you out. Join some groups on FB you are bound to come across someone that can help you out!
Blow by is combustion pressure/gasses that make is by the rings. Basically causes the cylinder/piston to have low compression and those gases pressurize the crankcase. You can check blowby by taking off your oil fill cap and see how much pressure is coming out of that location, or your crankcase vent. Some blowby is normal especially on diesel engines, but anything excessive is a bad sign of overall engine health.
sorry about that, I had the incorrect link. I used this 1/8npt to 1/8npt to act as an extension so the gauge would clear the body of the pump. amzn.to/3JKP3il
I can’t believe all the positive comments. I’m just learning to weld and usually when I read comments it’s a bloodbath. You must be an amazing welder. I subscribed
Nice job...i spend soo much money in taking it to a mechanic so they can do it..But wathching yu Helps me ALOT..THANKS.I have a subaru outback 2005 legacy myself
I have a 1987 F-250 which I ordered new. I have never messed with the fuel line clamps when doing this. Not trying to start an argument, just stating facts.
Recently redid my trailer suspension. I used bronze bushings and wet bolts on the springs and equalizers. Time will tell how long they will hold up. I do like the fact I can pump grease thru the bolts onto the bushings.
I have a few Miller machines, I used a 140 and a 252 on this project. I also have a syncrowave 250dx that I use for tig and stick. The little 140 would have been fine for this whole project.
