How to remove RIVETS from a rusty frame the easy way, Ford Ranger, Build part 4 

Thank you a g! I appreciate you taking the time to watch it AND letting me know what you thought! The next 2 videos in this series are cutting the frame in 1/2 and welding a good back section back in. Check them out if you would! -Frosty

Thank you for watching! -Frosty

That works well too!

@@frostydoesit the way ur doing it is ...... well..... wrong..... simple as that. Sure it works. But why....

@@redneckswitwheels why?? Because it's simple and it works! Share your video of the right process, I'd be happy to review your work!!

Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to let me know what you thought! -Frosty

I've never tried this method yet. I should make a video with everyone's suggestions and time them all, have a shoot out!

I've tried that too, works well. Thank you for watching!!! -Frosty

Thanks 😄

@@frostydoesit welcome

I use the air chisel by itself sometimes....it does work but can take awhile (like on the coil buckets of my F550). I found first cutting slits in them drastically reduced the air chisel time. Thank you for watching and commenting!

I plas the heads sideways. then punch em with a air chisel... The cut 50 is $200 and I have had mine for a couple years now no problems!

I do have a plasma cutter, in fact when I started this video I was using the plasma and stopped because I didn't feel I was able to cut the head off without getting into the bracket or the frame and I wanted to keep those pieces unmarked. I wasn't able to lay the cutting head @ 90* to the rivet.

I'm not able to get my plasma torch at a 90* angle to blow the head off without marking/cutting up the bracket or frame. Who knows, maybe there is a technique to it that I don't know yet.

@@frostydoesit That’s that basic way to doet for people like me that I not going to buy a plasma cúter for used oane time I replace that shackles brackets on my truck oane time and I use wat u have except I dint use that air gun

@@Purosanluispotosi get after it Abel, use what you have and be innovative

To each his own!

I usually try to use the same type of metal if they are going to be touching. Although I have seen lots of dissimilar metals used together in the automotive world....aluminum cylinder heads against a steel head gasket/block. Maybe someone will chime in with lots of experience.

It's called galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals will react, especially after some weather. Engines have gaskets and more science.

Great idea for another video! Thanks for watching and commenting! -Frosty

I've done it with a plasma and a torch, I always come back to this way. You are right though, if you are not good with a torch you will regret using one if you want to keep the parts in nice shape.

I like to keep this one round, they must be cheap ones because every time I make them any pointier they deform very quickly. I am sure If I had a better quality bit they would hold up better. Thanks for watching!

I bought mine 15 years ago, they must be made in the 🇺🇸

That's too much work for me, but would certainly work!

As an aircraft mechanic with twenty years of structure experience, I can tell you it's faster to drill than what was done in this video. You just need a sharp cobalt bit and cutting oil.

@@glenwhatley7366 tell me more about this, aluminum or steel rivets? Describe your process...i am interested

@@frostydoesit Idk what this other guy is talking about but we mainly drill out aluminum and monel rivets. Sometimes steel hiloks or titanium. But really only on the factory head side, bucktail side could be off center. Also in 757 and 767 the most common size is 3/16. But drilling them may be faster if you have nice bits and don’t mind sharpening. I’m supplied drill bits at work so it is fast I’ll drill two titanium 5/16 fasteners and get a new bit. That would be cost prohibitive if it wax out of my pocket on a frame with exposed bucktails like your working on. I’d grind flat and punch out.

In the garbage

@@frostydoesit I have a "special" guard to fool the safety twink. Take the original guard and trim the flange down so it is flush with the wheel. Still gives some protection but you can now use the grinder with the wheel flat on the work so you dont gouge it.

@@kolsen6330 That's a great idea....somewhere in the middle of safety and function!

Good idea for another video

Can’t be tight if it’s liquid…

I find the cutoff wheel really speeds up the air hammer chisel doing its job. Whatever method works for you is all 👍

The problem is it puts a lot of force on the underlying material. You end up with an egg shaped hole. Especially in a rust bucket like this example.

@@michaeldose2041 this is CLEAN for a Wisconsin truck!

Not this American