Frank, I tried a 50:50 mix of MMP and Future (now Pledge Revive It floor gloss in the UK) and the result was excellent! Gave a rock hard, sheen finish; impervious to rough tape treatment, water and odourless thinners/white spirit (so can be used with oils for weathering). I'm also now using Stynylrez primer rather than MMP. Thank you for the great tip.
I really wanted MM paints to work for me. I've moved to water-based paints to remove the smell of lacquer based paints, particularly in the clean up process. I like their colour range and colour accuracy and the ethos of the company. However, I've had nothing but problems with adhesion and I'm not looking for this hobby to give me stress and unpredictable results. Will I give it another try with Klear?; maybe to use up the paint I have. I won't try it with MCLT - I might as well use AK Real Color in that case. Really appreciate your experimentation on our behalf.
You don't need to use their thinner to clean the airbrush.. its acrylic paint.. have a spray bottle of good ole water and spray that into the paint cup while holding the trigger down then just wipe out the cup with a paper towel or clean rag. Using thinners to clean an airbrush is how you destroy the o-rings.
Great review!!! I've just had my first experience with MM acrylic on an aircraft project: Kinetic's 1:48 S2E Tracker. Up to this point I have always used Tamiya/Vallejo/maybe even some old Master Modelers by Testers I still had kicking around. Well; back to the Mission Models... I had laid down a nice primer coat of Vallejo black. After setting a day or so I masked off (using Scotch 3m "Delicate Surface" tape), sprayed my Light Gull Grey on. No paint pulled off. Mind you I ONLY used some lightly thinned MM paint. No other "additives." When I came to decal...OMG!!!!!!! What is HAPPENING! That's when I found out about this stuff! Now I AM, and always HAVE been a believer in Future, or Pledge, so I over sprayed a light coat, then after curing another coat. The next decals went much better. But Man!!! I'm thinking of going w/ Mr. Color for my next project, as I cannot find the colors I need other than Mr. Color, or MM for the next build (super detailing a Kinetic 1:48 F-105A/C in Viet Nam era camo.
It's not "garbage", it's poorly supported, and marketed. It's actually very good acrylic paint, but its still acrylic paint. It's overyped vallejo.. But the point of this video is how to make it more useful. I certainly use it, but where it makes sense to use it.
@@frankcrenshaw2880 Support or not the Vallejo works better in my opinion. I have tried it several time and completely dislike it. Took it off my shelf and either looking to sell it it give it away or trash it. The FS numbered paints are not even close to what they should be.
😊works about the same in my experience. But where I mostly use it is for figures and weathering. But I also use vallejo. To me they are basically the same thing. Colors aside, they function about the same. Unfortunately, mission models ownership is unwilling to hear this. This video got me banned from their facebook group! Truth is, if you thin it, it's better. Don't follow their guidance.. 😅
@@frankcrenshaw2880 Ill give it another shot but I know that I am building a F-4C Phantom and their FS paints are not even close to what they need to be. I need to add white to get them closer.
I found that thinning the white primer for a base coat. Followed the manufacturer's instructions and found that it turned out to be the consistency of pancake batter. I find Vallejo to be so much easier to use.
Yep. You're 100% correct about very thing you've said about this kit! I built this kit before saw these videos. It took about a month of filing, filling, sanding, more filling, and more sanding plus a whole tube or filler. This kit was a bastard.
Hi Frank well that is ingenious way of doing it and many thanks for showing us how you managed it. I'm about to buy either a Miniart Lee or Grant as I love the kits but taking it slow in the build process but usually the fit of parts is spot on and great detail but I will have a go! and subscribe to your channel. 👍
i just build that G6 was super happy with everything , i checked that canopy and that border looks the same as the 1:32 hasegawa G6 and K model , so if there is an issue , hasegawa have the same, so when i check fotos of the real deal it to mee looks just like those border and hasegawa canopys :
Hello Frank i just got my Mustang from Tamiya... Just wanted to thamk you for your story. im looking for ideas myself on my build as well. These men and women for that area are truly some of the bravest and humble people you will ever meet. Thank you for helping keeping their stories alive. Look forward to watching the build.
no not at all.. I haven't made a video followup though. I am a slow builder, if you want to see what is going on with the kit check out my facebook modeling page as that is where I post all my work. Mostly have been building 3d parts to make the nose gunbays accurate. I'm curretnly focused on a P-51 but this build is NOT dead .. facebook.com/franksscalemodelingpage
That's a fantastic feature if you want you to take the model to a show then when you get it home you could just change landing gear and hang it on the wall. I saw this kit on Sprue Bros. and was shocked at the price but after seeing the reviews, the cost is more than justified with the investment Great Wall has done with this kit. It looks just as good as the 1/32 kits by Tamiya. The least I could do is buy one right?
The kit wasn't available when I did this exercise. It was more of an explanation of why I felt it looked incorrect. It's not a factual PROOF, more of why I feel it looks weird. The model is a funny looking 109 to me.
You can see this is a labour of love for GWH. Obviously the Chinese really appreciate the AVG. Think iIm going to have to get this out of respect to both parties!
If you look at the real one in a museum, you can see that it is also narrow like Border model. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/Yu_Me-109G-2.jpg
there is something wrong with the shape. now that i have seen one in real life, I'm convinced its more like the trumpeter kit in 32. but that is an opinion.I dont agree with you, but its not a big deal if it looks ok to the modeler.
@@frankcrenshaw2880 I am not talking about the shape but narrowness of the first side window of the canopy. For the rest I don't know. Probably is off to a degree.
That's not how it works... Seriously.. What you do is a very try and try again process.. Obviously, cut a chunk that is slightly larger than needed. OVERSPREAD - if that makes any sense.. Then you very carefully file or sand one edge until it's absolutely perfect. It's a tedious thing, but once you do it a few times it's not hard or tedious. But honestly no measuring involved except "Kentucky windage".. Hope that helps you - it's a basic modeling technique that is very useful in many different ways. Well worth learning how to do.
Hi Frank! I just happened to catch your post on Dick- great story and encounter- I’d seen photos of this plane- great to have the story! Thank You! I’ve subscribed to your channel as well- I’m doing the Tamiya P-51D 1:32 scale in Chuck Yeager markings for my brother- or I should say restarting the build- Thanks! I look forward to following you on this build and to look at your other posts- Cheers from Detroit-
yea I am very glad I decided to talk to him. He was largely being ignored because he wasn't selling anything "modeling" related -lol. However he was a wonderful man. I'm sure everyone he met was impacted by his subtle greatness. Thanks for watching.
6 pages of instructions just for the engine and an included stand in case you want to display it separately.They hit a home run with this kit. I had sticker shock when I saw the price, but it is an outstanding kit from what I am seeing.
That's the first thing I noticed that you have your gear struts installed incorrectly. Wheels should be facing outboard. Other than that an informative video.
It can be the difference between an early and a late. Think the recessed line in the border threw me off but as a previous poster stated the Eduard seems closer to the mark.
I have a photo i found online named "Messerschmitt-Bf-109G6R6Trop-7.JG27-White-3-Franz-Stadler-Kalamaki-Mar-1944" that shows this area up close and seems both are not perfect. However, the Eduard looks much closer to the real thing than the Border.
