Videos from Gomm Stained Glass are art related and usually stained glass related. We love glass and glass art, but we find other art inspirational as well. Our mission is to help surround you with stained glass and beauty.
Jeanne is our main designer and really runs the studio. She works with clients to design stained glass, her videos are full of advice, tips and wisdom from the experiences and study that she is learning.
David does the technical side of things. He draws designs in AutoCAD so that they fit and the lines are straight and circles are round, He posts our weekly newsletter and our videos. He even taught a 3 credit course on stained glass at MSSU in Joplin, Mo.
I was given a large stain glass lamp. Someone had used bulbs too hot and it’s had started separating. I have it upside down in a box lid. How can I easily fix it
I never liked stained glass frames. They seem too heavy. BUT, THAT I LIKE!!! Beautiful!!! This is a very informative video. Brilliant how David put the zinc on. Thank you!
Y’all should consider purchasing a came bender. Cascade Metals makes one and I must say it works amazingly well. It makes quick work of a project like this and you are not limited to size. I bought one a few months ago and have been very happy with it.
Mr. Gomm, I am a beginner and am grateful for these videos. Thank you. I have one question that is making me crazy. When you make a score with your cutter there is a scratchy sound. Evidence that you are making a cut. I NEVER hear that when I'm scoring. It's so quiet I wonder if I'm even making a score line. I had thought perhaps it was because I'm using oil and you're not but this video disproves that theory. Am I not pressing hard enough? Not holding the cutter at the proper angle? Does it even matter? I struggle mightily with the cutting and breaking of my glass. I know it takes a lot of practice but it is very frustrating.
It could be that the oil you're using might be working so well that you can't hear the sound. I once had some glass that I was cutting and I comented to Jeanne who was in the next room, isn't that funny that when I score that glas, it doesn;t nake a sound. She said, what are you talkinb about I can hear it and I'm in the next room! Turjns out my hearin was damaged and I couldn't hear that frequency. If you'd like to try the oil that we use, go to our RU-vid video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wNA5XGqDbpo.html
@@GommStainedGlass LOL! That may be the answer for me as well sir. I never thought of that. I'm 71 and have hearing issues as well. Thank you for your response.
You answered your own question... Practice makes perfect... The softest whisper is what you're looking for... Eventually your fingertips will do the hearing for you...
We've 'done photos and also larger lace pieces that they wanted to save and hang on the wall. When doing photos, consider making copies and putting two back to back so you can se it from boh ides. Use copies of your photoe so the orignal isn't damaged.
It's made by Cascade Metals, we figured they we're a good choice since we've often used metal made by them. We're happy with it, it has very good construction and it's pretty strong.
Interesting! Is this stronger than if you would have used lead instead of copperfoil? I do a lot of foiling and this would be perfect for strengthening my pieces. I'll see if it comes in different widths. Thanks!
Restrip is very strong and helps make the panel extra ridgid. It's more so than just lead would be, in order for lead to be strong it ha to be cemented.
I like your method of holding the pencil scorer. I have a few pencil scorers and just can’t hack the scoring technique. I’ll try your technique tomorrow and get back to you. I hope it works. You guys are so helpful and generous with your tips. Thanks for that.
Strongline by Morton is much better to use as it’s the same height as most glass and re-strip is slightly higher than most glass and it leaves an “edge” on your window project.
We used to buy a Red and White Iron that is no longer available, but there is a Studio Pro 100 watt iron. It's plenty hot iron with many tip size options.
This was the most wonderfully exciting project I have seen. The design is truly spectacular and I could enjoy sitting and meditating each and every morning. Your work is so exquisite. Thank you for letting me experience this project.
if I had just watched your video 6 hours ago, I could have mounted my glass into the door the way it should be. Now I broke the glass. Back to square one.
Wherever it needs it, most joints need to be smoothed over, most interior joins were tinned before assembly so they may not need much attention. The more you do the better.
❤ absolutely love this. Liked and followed.. I love the art of stained glass..discovered it about a year ago. I have been taking classes for about a year now with a pretty amazing artist.. now in the process of setting up a home studio. These videos are so very helpful. I am doing my first larger piece. 18 x 26.. I was worried about the stability.. This method and your teaching video are just excellent ❤
My set screw got stripped and stuck. This was exactly the kind of information I have been scouring the internet for, for three days. Thank you so much. This was a life saver!
I love watching your videos they are so helpful for us who are learning on our own I really appreciate all the effort you put into explaining the actions of each task. I have and continue to learn much from you. Big thanks for all you do!
Finally! I made the poppy lamp when I was pregnant with my daughter. She's 27 now. during her terrible twos she got frustrated accidently kicking the lamp to the floor knocking the cap off. So it's been on Mt shelf waiting for 24 years! I hate repairs. In the studio I was the repair girl many years ago. You've inspired me...I'm ready. 71 now and I'm teaching my daughter and a 21 year old friend the basics. I've also started on my water Lilly lamp. I prefer lead came over copper foil. Now I have 2 young ladies that love copper foiling and have offered to foil my pieces!😢
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It was very informative but I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. I see you used a sand blasting thing to clean it up for soldering. In lieu of a sandblaster, do you think I would be able to use a Dremel with the wire wheel? The next question is what type solder do you use? Is it Rosin core or acid core and also can you brush acid on the surface to clean it before soldering? As a final note, the lamp shade I have is different than the one you worked on. Yours is a round, dome shape and the one I am working on has a series of triangular glass panes. Also it has an upper part (chimney?) soldered to the lower section. The solder at that joint weakened and from the weight of the lamp caused it to separate. To prevent it from totally separating I used a piece of mechanics wire to hold it until I decide what to do with it. Thanks again.
A Dremel can work, also an air eraser like they sell at harbor freight. You could also take it to a local machine shop to have it blasted. We NEVER use Acid or rosin core solder with stained glass because the imbedded flux can seep under the solder and then will ooze out forever and glass won't get clean. We use liquid flux.
