Update the rack comes from a Mitsubishi shogun sport from around 2004, not a l200 as said in the video though the l200 is the truck version the sport the estate version. I'm not sure if it goes by another name in the US though?
Hello, i bought mine from ebay, a mitsubishi shogun sport from around 2004 that was scrapping. I felt it was perfect as it was pretty flat, all metal, five bolt on points each side and could be cut back to the jeeps roof size very easily 😊. It fit perfectly and for light duties I'd say it will be upto the job 😊
Hear! Hear! A great real world review. Just bought a 2013 twin air 4x4.. with the Winter pack… love it. First warm day of Spring….. time to get ready for next Winter 🤣😉😏
i got a 2010 panda with 29000 on the clock . One of the tyres at the back is dated 2010. Converted to LPG . Been In the garage ready to go for two years . (C1 Refuses to die) 1.1 polish built mk3 in Corsa Red. One of the indicator warning led's wasn't working . Had to remount with soldering iron . Bought genuine roof rails from scrappy !
Thanks, unfortunately sold on to a friend in Ireland who has properly sorted it (in my hands it was only running on one turbo), it is properly sorted now but I doubt worth much more than 10k ☹️
I am picking my used 2023 ev4sr tomorrow from my local dealership in cheshire I will be checking if this has the new features if not I will be asking why 🎉
I'm leasing mine, but with hindsight buying second hand would have been a great deal as these cars are amazing value second hand 😀. As for software updates, I believe only accredited dealers or car software specialists can perform such things, so don't expect your local car dealer to be upto it?
@@anticat900 ... Sorry I meant I have bought it from a local dealership it was three months old and got nearly 8 thousand pounds of the retail value ... I hope someone sends me a video of the R33 software being used on a mgev4 standard range then I can show my dealership
I wouldn't buy a mk1 prius unless it has a new battery. Otherwise what's your journey to work, if less than 23 miles the ampera can do it without the engine?
Had a yellow 58 plate standard model that I loved. Upgraded to a Panda Cross and love it so comfortable and roomy for a small car. Love my City mode that helps with parking in a tight spot. Before the Pandas I was the second owner of a Punto that lived to 21 years old.
Looks tidy with the 3D printed parts and a fair use of an empty case. Another video putting the emulation through its paces running Amiga games and demos would be great.
I would do, an internal demo and piamiga demo, but it is now sold to someone that was very interested in it ☹️🙂. However I do still have piamiga though it is in my picolecovision 🙂
Then no, now yes. This was the slightly later engine which didn't throw out nearly as much crap out the back as my earlier model did. I did consider converting it to a 2wd 100hp or a 1.2 petrol 4wd. The 1.2 4wd is known for being one of the slowest cars on the road and the panda gearbox just cannot take any more power. That's why the 100hp is the only panda with a Punto gearbox
I started building exactly the same thing! I retrobrighted the keys on mine which came out lovely: then had to park the project to move house. Two years later; when I dug it out of the loft again, the keys were a deep shade of ORANGE! Very annoying! I keep meaning to get another A600 keyboard or try and re-bleach them to get it kicked off again now PiMiga is so complete!
Also: I have the usb mouse from the A500 mini, very nice; but I could never get original mice or joysticks working with the adaptor (key-rah 2 rings a bell).
Yes my keyboard was the same very yellow but 50c on the hob with 12% and they sort of returned to ok, though by your words this is only temporary 😊. The only hassle is the keyboard adaptor that is hard to come by unless you make it yourself, it also doesn't initialize with the pi4, meaning it needs turning off and then back off, then it is fine. With piamiga then installed it works perfectly out gunning pretty well any other Amiga. Ps is for sale on eBay with a gradually reducing price 🙂
@@jaistanley I've not tried an original Amiga mouse in it (though do have one somewhere), using a usb mouse though makes sense as it allows you to manage the Linux backend a little easier (set to f9 on this config as f10 is used by the game loader).
Looks awesome I love the functionality of it all and the way mods still look original! Are you planning on fitting an actual usb floppy drive behind that 3d printed cover plate?
Hello, yes you can fit a floppy drive in there and a usb interface is available to load Amiga software. To do this on a A600 though you would need to think about very careful cable management inside or consider cutting cables down to just the length they need to be, as at it stands now the interior is packed full of wires, 2 interface pcb's and 2 usb hubs :-)
Thanks the 'grumpyoldgamer' sells them on ebay. It fit perfectly and is recognised on startup by the pi4. You do need to remove the bolts, make a 3d plate for it to sit a bit higher and then glue it in place 🙂.
In the latest version of the software for the SE model (1100R33) we have a few more shortcuts in that swipe down menu: you can switch the lane keep assist off, and the car off too (rather than going into the safety menu first) and it is accessible when using CarPlay or AA
In the Uk we don't have a special name for this sort of thing unless we are Cockney, they are just one man tents. However these things are different in that they aren't lightweight or compact one man tents, being alot sturdier. So I will in my next review in the spring, I will do it in full Australian slang with not a mention of the 't' word 🙂.
I have an MG ZS EV and it has the same brightness "quirk", always needing to slide the brightness up and back down at night. I've also noticed that when connecting Apple CarPlay, it will make the screen really bright but the menu slider will still show it being the dimmest. Great cars, glad my biggest peeve with MG is just that brightness slider 😂
They look good and lowered it's looks great too. Neither do the ride much good though, I get the feeling Saab would have done this themselves but felt aero suspension and 16 inch wheels were the limit?
The 24th of October in the UK was probably the wettest nights of the year, which did put a downer things. I look forward to a better review :-) One issue I did have is the rain drips down the tent and onto the bed. The bed is wetproof so a puddle builds up under the tent and even with this tents excellent ground sheet it still does begin to leak in soaking the foam mattress. For a re-design or home modification this tents needs a skirt to go around the bottom of the tent so water just drips down over the bed rather than into it.
Did you “season” the swag? A process of hosing the whole thing down and completely dry 3Xs? This is the way we waterproof our canvas in Australia. I also for extra insurance after that process, I spray all the seems from outside with a waterproofing spray. After all that is done it should withstand torrential rain without a drop inside. The silver coated lining can be pulled back over the swag, silver side up and poled & pegged out from behind. That creates protection from the rain, sun & condensation. Most of us here in Australia have awnings on our off-roaders that we pull out and sit under. I pull my swag up partially under that for cover. 🇦🇺👌🏽
@@gemini2261 Hello, no i did not know that, I do have some waterproofing tent spray and I'll apply this once spring starts under you advice 🙂. My issue with the design is when it is placed on the king bed. As there is nothing stopping the rain draining down the tent and then onto the bed it is sitting on. That bed (maybe unwisely) is fully waterproof and holds this rain under the tent as a giant puddle ☹️. This in time, even with the good base material of the tent leaks though. The design needs to change to avoid this, either with a skirt or the king bed allowing water to pass through it?
@@anticat900 AH, Gotcha…end up on a waterbed! That’s not good, not sure if pegging the awning backwards will help with that. There is a British guy living in NZ that camps out in extreme weather, rain, snow storms. “AB Camping” he has camped in the same as yours in rain, his only complaint I think was condensation, he pulls his up to but not right under his awning. I dont recall him reporting about the waterbed situation. I will go look at those vids again with that swag. I was interested in getting one just for solo camping with the doggo. Be warned AB Camping vids go for 3hours or so, some of it is pretty extreme 😂👌🏽( usually use my Oztrail RV3, I have the full set of walls).
@@gemini2261 If you can get advice on that the please advise, if like to see those videos too🙂. it was a very very wet night and windy and to be fair the tent didn't leak or have condensation issues for me and i imagine any tent sitting in a puddle for 10 hours work start to let water through 🙂
I also have a xtender 2.5 awning tent similar to yours, hard to put up on your own but alot more space the the rs1 inside. The main issue i have with the rs1 and king bed is not this leak issue which as you as maybe solved with the awning tied back, it is its enormous size, being very heavy and very long even when folded. It won't fit in my little wrangler tj jeep ☹️
Hello I'm 6ft and have sat in a normal one in the showroom, you should have no difficulty as i had plenty of room even in the back with my front seat position. The car has quite a 'dumpy' side which they tried to hide
i have a panda 4x4 wild 2016 with twinair engine. the perfect road car in iceland for me.did never expect it but now the car have nearly 247k km and the engine run like new!
Hello I have just bought a Rover 75 Connuseour 2003 classic I wanted to know how you did an aux output after removing the cd MULTIPLAYER thank you so much
The sat nav has an aux input on one of the pins on the box in the boot where the spare tyre goes, i fed the wires all the way back to the front for an aux input.
Buddy do you have a contact number please I would like to ask you some questions regarding the stereo I am prepared to pay you for your time kind regards
The best car in the world, i don't know, but it's surely a well designed and thought car, which makes it automatically better than 95% of the modern cars!
It is an attention grabber headline 🙂. None the less if you can advise of a car, thats easy to park, roomy, good on fuel, 4wd and with a locking diff, that you can buy and lose nothing on, i want to know about it 🙂. Mine i have sold as it was too smokey for these modern times 🙂
I was just wondering how it goes with the long term reliability 🤔 Definitely I totally love the styling of yours and I am wondering should I spend double the money and get the MK4 with the twin engine.
@@lyubengeorgiev1751 it would definitely outlast a twin air mk4 and although the chassis of the mk3 and 4 are the same, the mk 3 certainly has more room in it, as you are more upright. I would go for the slightly revised version of mine however with more power and the dpf filter. Mine always threw out a lot of smoke on hard acceleration which is why i sold it. The dpf version hopefully shouldn't do this, though is more complicated having it.
@@anticat900 I was looking around for the gasoline version of the cross but they are quite rare even in Italy. Another interesting fact is that the Italians drive them quite a lot….most of the examples that I found there are way above 200k Km.
@@lyubengeorgiev1751 Hello, yes i think in Europe there was a petrol version and ones with little sunroofs too, in the uk only the diesel model come over. With a revision towards its end with a little more power and dpf filter. I would have gone with the petrol too, though it would be pretty slow
They are great little cars, i think in Europe you could also get it in petrol form and with twin sunroofs too. The roof plastic is all just for show, but does allow a roof box to be connected 🙂
Hello, yes when putting then on i think i must have put the rubber mounts on incorrectly as once i screwed them down in the engine bay there was still a gap. They never rattled or klonked so never got around to fixing them. The has sadly moved on as it was too smokey when you wellyied it. A great little car otherwise.
The twin air did not come out for the Panda mk2. But i would say the twin air is the better engine for today. My diesel panda cross was economical and had torque, it was reliable and simple to. But it thew out a load of crap out the back if you accelerated.
Hello i used vht red wrinkle paint. It came out really well. I used a hot air gun to wrinkle it once sprayed on. If you don't heat it dries like sandpaper which also looks pretty good. The tricky bit is then filing it back off where there are the words turbo or Maserati, you have to be careful you don't take off too much 🙂.
@@anticat900 ok, thanks a lot for the answer. I have now a other one. Ferrari / Maserati red from Geox7. Thats too red. Because I have only little spotts to fill out. So Im lookink for the wrinkle that matches as close as possible to the original tone. The spyder is from 90 and has only 13.000 km/ 9000 mls. You still have the car ?
@@w.moller7679 Hello, sadly no, its in Ireland now though i do visit it and its owner on a yearly basis. It was my 2nd Biturbo so got to know them well, but did not have the £7000 spare its present owner has to properly refurb it with a new exhaust manifold and many other bits ☹️. I would say this vht paint did the business for my car however, though you do need to remove the old paint and make sure no old is still present before applying this paint. Have got a spider Maserati? I have considered one as my 3rd car 🙂 but am taking a break from them for a bit 🙂
@@w.moller7679 around the 90 they changed to plastic bumpers on some models and active shock absorbers. I would like the modern look but those electric shocks are £1000's for fix?
I wish there were more. I wish Mitsubishi and PSA considered investing and improving range, efficiency, access and affordability. All the tooling of old cars like these just get scrapped, they can't even be repurposed.
They did ok for a first gen battery car, not sure if the battery was temperature controlled like in later designs, but quite a few still about. But the petrol version only really sold well in Japan where it still has quite a following. Spares are readily available, but take time to be imported from Japan
Psa had little involvement in the design and only partially assembled the near complete cars with their Citroen or Peugeot themed parts. It maybe was a stop gap measure for them until they had cars for the market, but it was an ok design, relying on being light to have a basic range and from a small battery. This still does make it the cheapest mile for watt electric production car. Machines today have better range and more effective batteries, but they are still alot bigger and heavier, so cannot match the imeav or czero or cheapness to run
I think you are saying this video wasn't very well planned 🙂. Unfortunately I should have planned it a bit better. But hopefully i have got across the electrical issues i was having 🙂
Do you have any videos on the non fuel injected model? I'm looking to buy a 1984 biturbo S that doesn't run and I'm looking for videos on the carburetor engine. If you don't have any do you have any links to videos or forums?
I have a Facebook group called Maserati Repair Info there are 1200 members and maybe one will be able to help you? Ive only had 2 injection models so not much i can help on the carb versions, though I've heard they are more home serviceable then the injection versions, though having the carb in a pressurised box does make access a bit more tricky? What issues does yiu car have?
@@anticat900 @anticat900 Haha, i wouldve bought it if i knew you were selling! I'm in the process of doing a diy electric brompton. I was wondering if you can help me with a few questions: 1. Can i ask where you got your kit? Ove found one in China but unsure of import costs. 2. Do you remember your PAS sensor model? Did you remove the bottom bracket to put the silver ring on first, then the magnet disc and then the crank? 3. How did you go about with the battery mount? Does it automatically connect when you mount the bag to the front carrier block, or did you have to manually connect the cable? 4. Did you end up using the Brake lever cut-off switch in the end - or was it not needed? Apologies for bombarding you with all these questions! I hope you can help. Thank you.
@@dval2437 hello, I nearly went for the switch kit, but in the end went for a likely Chinese kit on eBay which was alot less. It did work great however, but some fiddling to get the increased amount of cabling needed and to allow it to still fold. I took off the crank and put the sensor on, but with hindsight put it on the wrong side, where it still worked but was an alot tighter to fit. My kit came with options of crank sensor, power lever and brake levers. I went with the crank and handlebar lever, the brakes were poor quality compared to the Brompton ones and not needed anyway, as you don't tend to peddle when pressing the brakes too? I bought a smaller bag and clamped it to the front bag holder, this was tidy and very compact, but couldn't be removed easily, as unlike the switch kit, there are multiple cables to disconnect, so go for the switch kit if you will want to remove the battery quickly. Over all it worked great, just felt a bit guilty riding it as it was so easy, just select the amount of peddle assistance you want and go, or just push the handle bar power lever for even more of a boost. Having said that I'm now selling by replacement Brompton for a electric mountain bike 🙂