i didnt recalibrate anything... just removed the ECU and sprayed CRC electrical cleaner in the ECU and harness to remove the small oil residue and did similar on the camshaft magnet plugs before i put the new ones in. all good after that
i dont disconnect main battery BUT do make sure the car is off obviously. i usually pop the hood, then lock the car and let it sit for 5 minutes before taking the ECU out / swap with my other ECUs. not sure that is required
its worked well for a few years now but I have to be very careful to not move the screen because if I do the issue can return... if i restart it a few times it does eventually go away without having to open it up again
i replaced the 2 cam magnets that are easily accessible and havent gotten around to doing the other 2 that are located behind the charge pipes. should absolutely replace them though good point
I ordered the new cam sensors and should get them from MB Parts Source. They are cheaper than FCP Euro. I didn’t see any oil in the cam magnets, but I will check every oil change. My GL has 54 k miles. It’s sad these engines have this issue this early.
Great video. I have a 2016 E400 6 cylinder and I installed cam positions extension harness to prevent any oil damage to ECU. When I was installing the cam position sensors extensions I carefully examen each connector and luckily they were bone dry no oil at all. Thanks to fellow RU-vidr JoseRepair I found out how to prevent any oil damage and got my cam position sensor extension harness from ZZPerformance.
2013 E350. I just replaced all 4 but the code is still there. There was oil residues on 2 out of 4. I’ll replace the other 4 magnet adjusters next. My Indy shop wanted my arm & leg😢😢 to replace the wiring harness & other stuff related to code P0346 😢😢😢
www.blackboostusa.com/ very worth while mod... added 40HP per my dyno and dropped .3 off quarter from just this combined with my AMS 100 octane tune (quarter 10.42 and 133 trap)
Thanks for this. Today I have checked and replaced all four of the camshaft sensors on my 2015 CLS63S M157 using the FCP Euro kit at 45K miles. I had a small leak on sensor 2 and 3 looking left to right. I have not yet checked the ECU but I will. From what I can see on the forums Mercedes should have issued a recall for this issue. It may justify a class action.
Dude thank you so much for putting this out there. You’ve genuinely helped me mentally prepare for owning my 2016 E63S. I wonder if these kinks were worked out in the 16’ models but idk. Maybe I’ll ask ChatGPT about it later. What year is your model?
mine is a 2015 E63 and am at 50k miles... definitely check the 4 cam sensors and cam magnets and ECU wiring harness for leaks on any car you're considering buying! Absolutely get a compression test done before you buy any M157 motor AMG as that plus leakdown & boroscope visual will help you avoid the "ticking time bomb" motors that have been abused, have valve issues, piston/ring issues and the compression test will help you determine that.
Did it help the sputtering? (S63 M157 here) thanks to you I just looked and found all of them soaked with oil, ran to my laptop and ordered a set from FCP, thankfully nothing on the ECU connector, but I will spray it anyway once I got the kit, the reason I was researching this , my car sometimes sputter and has a long crank before it starts, and I'm talking once in while and not on cold start, it only happens after being driven then parked for about an hour or so it does that, then it's fine, and it's been driving me nuts, I'm hoping this will resolve the issue.
@gusf - i have had that sputtering/delayed start off and on with my car after about 35k miles. when i replaced the cam sensors / cam magnets and cleaned up the minor oil in my ecu wiring harness it was starting totally normal again BUT i notice that if I quickly turn the key to start the sputtering can return. now I put the key in ignition, turn it to position 2 (just before start) and wait like 1-2 seconds before starting and for some reason dont have any sputtering when starting that way.... i do get the sputtering if i just stick the key in and do full quick turn to start. still havent figured out why that happens (no codes shown, battery is good)
@@johnvakos9136 yea same here I replaced the cam sensors and honestly I don’t see a difference , I use the push buttons keyless but it’s the same Principle I press the with my foot off the brakes so it won’t crank right away wait for about 3-4 seconds and it starts normally , I think this a symptons of fuel regulator so I’m thinking of replacing the fuel filter next it’s one unit with the regulator in it , now here’s my exact symptoms , cold start no problem at all second start after stopping for an hour or so is where the problem most pronounced , and it’s also intermittent meaning sometimes it doesn’t happen at all, ohhh the mystery of Mercedes I love my my car but sometimes she drives me nuts😊😊
Hi, mine is hissing, do you know what might be causing? It sounds like it's coming from the center vents. Also does it with fan blowing on it's own without the A/C on
if yours is making a hissing sound and not blowing cold air you likely are low on refrigerant. you can buy one of those AC recharge cans from an auto parts store and try to recharge it
Sounds to me like u glazed your breaks. When u get a build up of pad material basically melted to your routers causing ur brakes to drag the tiniest bit making that noise. To fix it do 3-4 HARD breaking. From like 80 to 10. DO NOT STOP U WILL MELT YOUR PADS. Get ur breaks red hot then go hit the highway and don’t use your brakes till they cool down. Approximately 5-10 miles for 5-10 minutes. That’s how I fixed it for my 2012 Audi a6
But even if it's glazed, why do pads touch the rotor in the first place? The author just drives straight, he doesn't break, but his pads touch the rotor and make noise. Don't you think this is the main reason? Do you have an explanation for that? Or am I wrong assuming pads touch the rotor? What is this sound then?
sorry to hear but not surprising. if you are in the US my suggestion is to buy the cam sensors from FCP Euro as they have a lifetime free warranty replacement and are nearly the same price as if buying from a dealer. i replaced my 4 cam sensors and 2 cam solenoid magnets from FCP and assume they will again leak and aside from my 1 hour of labor to do the work myself i will never have to pay for parts again with FCPs lifetime warranty.
yes the voltage regulator was definitely bad... i replaced it a week ago and finally the new battery is charging properly. was original voltage regulator at 75k miles and brushes worn down
Just did this to mine this am. You only need a 9in flathead screwdriver to reach the white cog he is describing. For me, I turned the cog counter clockwise when you are facing the glovebox.
my indy guy fixed the issue by doing some hard braking from 80-90 mph down to lower speeds and the sound went away. apparently since i am mostly doing city driving or high way driving in traffic with my foot on the brake that caused some build up on my pads/rotors which the hard braking removed for my situation.
Can also ruin the rack if it goes forward, the oil pan if it goes backwards, and in either case ruin the front seal. Buy a quality damper and use an ARP crank bolt. Do it once, do it right, and move on.
I just had a Summit Racing balancer put on. Worth every penny. I paid $199 and had dealership put it on. I also replaced oil pressure sensor myself. I went with Borg Warner pressure sensor.
thanks..i ended up getting the Powerbond unit since Speed Inc in Chicago had them and gave a good deal on the install too. I'm just pissed that I didnt notice the OEM balancer was wobbling when I inspected the car from the seller as I would have pushed for a bit lower selling price but no complaints really as the car is a 2004 with $50k miles in perfect condition 2nd owner (he was 80 yrs old and never drove it hard)...
