Hey guys! Thank you so much for supporting my channel! For those of you who dont know me, my name is Marko and I have been working with Hyundai for about 10 years. In this channel, you will see my day to day life as a mechanic. Watch and learn how I tackle difficult jobs at work. I hope you guys enjoy watching my videos and please help spread the word to help this channel grow. I will try my best to keep my content interesting and worth your time. If you have some questions or clarifications kindly email me at hyundaitech261@gmail.com. I welcome any questions you may have, so please do not hesitate asking me. Maybe we can even learn together! I believe that "no question is a stupid question" so please feel free to reach out!
Hallo bro, saya mekanik dari Indonesia,saat ini saya sedang melakukan penggantian radiator ,air pendingin tipe apa yang harus saya gunakan.apakah bisa dengan coolant mobil konvensional.untuk mobil ionic 5.ada 2 tabung reservoir
My GV 70 Electrfied has similar issue with the instrument panel, but it is intermittent. It goes off and after some time when I turn it off and turn it back on it came come back on. At times it just does not come back on...any ideas?
great video! i have the same car and when i removed the compressor and opened it i found black oil inside it but the mechanical parts i think it works properly, so i changed the oil and the valve control and it worked very well for 2 days then it stopped working again, so is this because there is a black oil inside the cooling cycle that clog the valve or what? so if i clean the compressor will it work preperly or it's just a waste of time and it's better to replace the compressor with new one?
I am following this but the bolt connecting the top mount to the shock keeps spinning when I try to drill it off. It’s so close I can’t get it. I try holding the rod of the shock but I can’t, still spins
And by the way I had same problem with KIA that was giving me park sensor problem after checking all the wiring found corrosion on the wiring and connectors so I called to change the wiring harness and that solved the problem those wires are so small and tiny they are very easily get corrosion and damage from the element specially winter time when they spray salt on the ground.
AWESOME approach and thought process as usual buy the way I have 2018 Chevy cruse 1.4 LT with turbo with Code P1101 that say the pcm is not seeing what map. maf, egr and more is reporting for air that is getting in through the air filter any idea how to approach this because so many thing is involve with P1101 code any info would be appreciated and as always thanks for sharing. cheeeeers from performance KIA IN BRAMPTON, ONTARIO.
I had one like that, they are known with mass air flow issue, and before calling that , what i heard they have issues corrosion in the pcm pins for that issue. And lastly make sure you dont have any misfires.
Yeah when they replace new engine, no new knock sensor. As long the repair was done correctly and especially torque knock sensor bolt it wont create a problem.
Thank you so much. We own two of the 2011 Accents 1.6L engine (original owner) with the manual transmission and both have nearly 175K miles on them both. Recently only one has experienced this problem you describe in the video but it is fixed now thanks to your video. Having bought both vehicles new and within a month apart from each other, I'll share the mechanical history of both for you and your viewers. One of them had the hood release cable stretch to the point that it wouldn't function and while the car was still under warranty, the dealership said it wasn't covered and wanted $600 to repair. I refused to allow them to repair it and as a result, I lost all confidence for Hyundai and their factory warranty. As a result, my next new vehicle was a Toyota and I bought an extended warranty. To fix the hood release issue, I bought a $1 dog leash from Dollar Tree and connected it under the hood to the hood release and ran it out the fender by the driver side B-post and in the car door. We have had the purge valve go bad on one of the cars causing hard starts only after filling up the tank with gas but once pressure build up after starting the vehicle and racing the RPM near 3K for 5 seconds it seemed to run fine until the next fill-up. I bought a replacement purge valve on Amazon and fixed it myself. It was easy to do in with the 1.6L because there is lots of room in the engine bay. Other than those, we have just had the normal wear and tear problems with the miles like brakes, fuel pump, starter. I have pushed every timing belt change to 75K miles even though I know it is risky and if it broke on me it would trash the engine. While both are listed as a 2011 model, they were both built in 2010 and therefore they do not have hydraulic lifters, they are manually adjusted but I have NEVER adjusted them. Only one time did I start to hear noise from them but that was after a 4 hour nonstop drive on the highway at 75 mph which is over 3K RPM in that 1.6L with the 5-speed manual transmission. I changed the oil and the noise went away. Now we always keep them under 3K RPM (60 MPH) even on the highway.
I got an emergency recall letter in the mail that my model Hyundai is bursting into flames while parked, no keys, not running (just sitting). I scheduled an appointment and took it in and they said it would be around $1000-$1100usd to get it looked at and give me the estimate to get the recall fixed. Seems insane to me. Between getting locked inside the car, potential to burst into flames at any moment (even when parked, say at night in your garage while you and your kids are inside asleep in bed) and the undercarriage rust issue in which case I had a control arm bust off prematurely. Luckily I wasn't going fast cause that could definitely be a death sentence on a highway or expressway. Anyways yeah, the cost savings on buying anything from this company is not worth it, especially if you have a family. They are totally okay with putting what amount to KNOW DEATH TRAPS on the road and figuring, well how many could actually file suit, we will still make out like bandits with all the corners we've cut so let's move forward with these planned cuts. In my case the dealer literally used a recall as a foot in the door to charge tons of money. All of this is true, look up your model and see what hazards lurk.
Hi, would you happen to know how to remove the actual shift lever on this vehicle? I've been searching all over, but don't seem to find anything on it.
@@hyundaitech thanks. Is it likely to have blown in a crash where none of the air bags have deployed? Is there any other reason why the car wouldn't drive after light front damage? The crash was sufficient to badly crack the bumper and fold the front edge of the hood.
My 2022 Hyundai sonata does this ONLY when it’s super hot outside. Then the lights will go off, when I let car run for a minute then turn ignition off then on again. I bought my car brand new with 7 miles.. it has 22,000 miles now. The dealership tech said he had to go through all the wires to see what’s wrong, he fixed it.. got my car back after Hyundai dealership having it for almost a month, had my car 2 days and it’s happening again!! 😭
Ive currently got an occasional missfire issue on a 2021 kona nline with the 1.6L turbo. The car will run fine but occasionally under heavy acceleration like overtaking or pulling onto an onramp it will flash the check engine light and start to studder loose power and not know what gear to be in. When you come to a stop at idle it will still missfire but when you turn the car off and on again its like nothing happened no engine light. It wasnt until one highway on ramp where it must have gone over the threshold and the engine light stayed on the codes were general multiple cylinder missfire and then missfire cylinder 1 and cylinder 2. After clearing the codes and driving another 150miles a bit steady it didnt play up again. Very strange issue have yet to get it diagnosed fully waiting to see it if codes again
Yeah i replaced it with new actuator and it fixed the issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9dY2P2fYBiE.htmlsi=hSxFXPk3ekjEw0IG Thats the link for the video
I need to replace the Clip that holds the arm. Does any one know what’s the specifications for it. I’ve tried others that have locked in but then pop out after some time
How would I know if the problem is the whole coupling and not just the actuator? I have no grinding noise or anything, just no AWD. Its a 2014 Sorento. We bought the vehicle used in 2019 and I suspect it wasn't working at the time we bought it so we have never heard to noise or anything like others have said. Im wondering if the gears in the coupling is good but its just not getting any power at the actuator.
Do you have any fault codes? And double check the transfer case in the transmission, they usually rust and the spline will get damage causing for no power transfer to the rear wheels.
@@hyundaitech I put my scanner tool on and no fault codes pertaining to the the transfer case. Well my scanner tool isn't like what you had but it gets the job done
@@BaysideSoundz ahhh okay. When you press the 4wd lock button does it stays on? Usually if theres an issue with actuator only you will get a code. What you can try is put the shift lever in park, lift the two rear tires off the ground, then try spinning your propeller shaft, if it spins meaning that the spline on the transfer case to transmission is not lock and you need to investigate further the transfer case. If it doesnt spin, now you have to investigate the rear diff area.
