Didnt have the picks, found that hammering a long nail in then using pliers to leaver it out worked. Maybe took 10mins if screwing around total. Its a whole other shower now. Only thought about doing this since the shower was just dribbling. When i installed it a month ago it was fine !
You're right. I hope I didn't come off like I was an expert, because I am not. I'm just a regular guy that manages to fix his own things. And there are times that I do it the hard way......
Thanks for posting this video, as I’m a complete novice with tuning up small engines. This is my exact trimmer. I’m not sure what you mean by oiling up the filter as you don’t show this in the video, and I will have to figure out how to use brake cleaner on the spark plug.
I'm glad this helped. To oil the air filter all you have to do is put oil on it and work it in. That just helps stop dust from getting in. You can use a wire brush or wire wheel on the spark plug. You just want it clean. Thank you and good luck.....
I have the same model lathe and fixed a similar problem on mine. Be sure to check the m2 taper surface inside the spindle for chips or scratches. The mating surface of your chuck may have issues as well. I noticed a discoloration of my he chuck threads in the spindle. Has it been overheated in the past. If so, distortion may be the source of your problem. Good luck.
Hi, So if I recap its just 2 individuals compressors BUT the tanks are linked. That’s all ? Im curious cause some spoke about « check valves ». I want to do the same but am a litthe scares about security
You are right. That’s all I did is connect 2 tanks. I also said to keep the pressure set below the tank with the lowest pressure rating. Good luck and be careful….
@@jster1963 So don't need check valve ? Yes in France its most common 8 or 10 bars. Last question If only one compressor is running, doesn't that put a contraint on the other? And if both are running at the same pressure, there's no risk, if I've understood correctly.
@@jster1963 Look up acetylene tip cleaning kit, its a small fold out set of tiny wire sized files that you can use to clean out any size orifice. About 10$ at any tractor supply or Ace hardware.
Thank you so much! I'm sorry I don't know how long it will last. I've only used it on these videos. I think I use it in 3 videos. Thank you again and sorry I could not help.....
1:35 It is a compression fitting - so not tape or any other sealer. The seal is made by pressure metal to metal. 6:15 that is the brazing tip - not for cutting and a smaller more controlled flame - for brazing.
Electrolysis can be increased by keeping the anode as close as possible. I use the plastic fan shield from an old box fan to keep them separated. This can increase the current flow significantly and speed up the process.
First and most importantly I recommend you have a check valve on each line for safety to prevent backflow second you should move the tanks as far away from you and your work site then you start heating up both sides before trying to apply your filler metal
Excellent information! I bought check valves and will have them installed before I use it again. I thought they were installed from the factory, but I was wrong. Also, I will definitely keep the tanks away. Thank you very much.....
I have had one of those little mills setting in a corner for about 10 years now. I just had shoulder surgery and it's cold here in Alaska right now. I just put it up on th work bench to tear down clean and paint. Im looking forward to the project. This video was very useful
Thank you so much! There is a youtuber Ghostses that shows exactly how to tear it down and put it back together too. Good luck with yours and thank you again.....
I'm sorry I didn't answer earlier and I know there is a device that shops have that program it. The key fob is a DIY way of doing it. I hope this helps.....
No worries I didn't know this one for years either. The guy that sent you that cutter set you up lil 2 flute flats are for routers, basically, you can cut metals but they don't last long if you do. More for cutting lines or slits or face milling on things lighter then metals. 3 flute flat or bull end mill for aluminum 4 flute flat or bull for equivalent quality cut on steel. Try using a 2 or 3 flute on steel will be very bad results, bad finishes and cutters won't last long. It's good advice
i turn wrenches on these for a living. ALWAYS pull the drive off and replace the intermediate shift cable assembly as a whole. the cable, it's ends and the bellows. to get the bellows off you have to disconnect the cable, which means moving that USED cable around and shifting it's position. and not a chance in hell of going back EXACTLY how it was, it WILL fail in the next year and you'll need the bellows replaced to change it.
In my area I couldn't find anyone that would work on an inboard motorboat. I finally found someone about an hour away, but they wouldn't even schedule me for a month. And then they would only schedule me. It could be several months before they got to me and finished it. In Michigan there are only a few months that is boating season, and I didn't want to lose an entire season. I'm sure you are right, but I needed a fix, even it's not a perfect fix. And thank you very much.....
@@jster1963 inboard generally refers to a ski boat. sterndrive or I/O has an Inboard motor powering an Outboard drive. but, i get that. i spent half my nearly 20 year long career in reno nevada, snow country. and i worked at shops were you were lucky to only wait a month for your appointment. and i worked during 2020 and parts took 6 months to get. had one poor guy, brand new 23' chaparall with volvo's V8 300 in it, 9.1 hours when the fuel pump module started dumping fuel into the intake and flooded the motor. that's a DI motor, only place fuel should be is in the cylinders. should not be a gallon of it sitting in the intake. and pouring out the throttle body into the bilge. it was all warranty, but volvo is in sweden, they had their own lock downs. and the pump uses parts from india, which REALLY locked down for covid. had my parts manager trying everything, and calling volvo every week, cause that was BS. and the customer was calling everyone every week. us, the vegas dealer they bought it at, volvo. reno nevada, you got about 8 months of boating. they were off the water for 6 months. only got about another month before winterizing. and no surprise, they did not bring it to me for that after waiting 6 months. personally, i love wrenching on an alpha 1 and it's motor. i also love the smaller outboards, the 60 and less crowd. i'd love to help you out at my shop, but i'm in texas now. and that would be a LONG drive for you. one tihng really sucks about wrenching on boats in texas, there is barely an off season. i am a freaking ARTIST at shrink wrapping. and i did not get to do even one this last winter.
@@nonenone-ll7ln This was the first year I lost my indoor storage. I could have used you to shrink wrap my boat! I just used tarps. Next year I should have indoor stoorage again. And that's so sad for that boat owner! I feel for both of you. Thank you for sharing.....
@@jster1963 a boat with an alpha 1 on it, my shrink wrapping prices are about $400. depending on lengths and things like ski towers. takes me about 3 hours to cover it in way that can survive 4' of snow overnight for at least 4 years (in event of long term storage). and about $80 in materials/parts. and it's the tape that fails. the tiny holes i did burn in it along the way are now opened. and the folds that must be made probably won't survive highway speeds on a long trip. your indoor storage probably charges more. you won't get me wrapping it in the very cold north, or winterizing it. but if i lived there, i could seriously pocket $30k in just wrapping boats for 4 months out of the year just working for myself as a wrapper. only would need some building large enough to get in out of the wind and rain with a boat.
Had the same issue. Pulled mine apart, cleaned it up but instead of replacing the grommet I just slid it halfway out and used some loctite oil & gas resistant adhesive sealant, the pushed it back in. (the tank is built this way so you can replace that tiny sponge filter inside the feed nozzle, but I'll probably never replace that sponge) Let it set, then filled the tank and check it after 48 hours. Nothing seemed to be leaking, but out of an abundance of caution I'm not leaving oil in the tank from now on. Cleaning it was the worst part. I imagine, aside from that adhesive they used, there's more pieces to that oil pump that aren't oil resistant.
Very nice video. I struggle with ID’s too. I recently aquired a set of gauge pins and I’ve found them usefull to sneak up on ID’s. I don’t think the journey will ever end.
Great tip using the bolt as a pilot to drill into the sleeve. That one will be in my mental toolbox for future use. Little tips like that are priceless. When making a half nut for my lathe I first made the world's longest transfer punch. 3 feet long 3/4" aluminum rod and drilled and tapped the end 1/4x20 TPI. Then just put one of my transfer pins in the threaded hole and made a perfect mark in the roughed half nut then drilled and tapped the half nut using an Acme tap. Split the nut with a saw and it is a perfect fit and works smooth as silk. I used the same process when I made the cross-slide nut. I gleaned the idea from one of Randy Richards videos. My hobby is restoring and rebuilding antique and vintage machine tools. I also have one of the little Atlas Mills that i consider in mint condition. Everything on it is original and works. Thanks for bringing us along and the amusing story. My neighbor and best friend (RIP) came over ant dropped his pants in front of one of my deer cameras. I transferred the picture of his butt to my phone and texted him the picture and told him I was gona post his picture and his name on a Gay Porn site. LOL, He stopped showing his ass after that. LOL
Years from now someone that gets that 3 foot transfer punch will wonder what on earth it is, LOL. It really is a cool thing to make tools to make tools. I restored my father's Atlas 618, My Atlas Horizontal Mill, and my Atlas 7B Shaper. I love restoring those machines. I wish I had the experience to restore to factory specs. And your buddy did the right thing and not moon your deer camera anymore;-) And thank you so much.....
If I have a 170 tank, linked tank to tank with a 120 tank, as long as the output pressure on both tanks is set at, say 100, then there should be no way of over pressurizing the weaker tank correct?
I got it from McMaster-Carr. It’s sold by the foot. I’m not 100% sure but I think I use 1/4” and 3/8”. I’m rebuilding my house right now and can’t check it. Sorry. Thank you and good luck…..
Also watching your video on making the vise jaws you mentioned that you wished you had the prints. One nice thing about Clausing is if they do not sell that particular part for the Atlas machines anymore, they will email you a PDF of the drawing for the part.
I had to remake the same bushing for my same Atlas shaper last year. I followed a similar process, turning to the correct OD then cutting keyways in each side and "gluing" keys in with retaining compound, similar to how I've seen Stefan Gotteswinter and others do. So far it's held up, but only time will tell. Lucky for me, I didn't have nearly as many problems as you ran into with other parts of the table traverse system, but the knee on mine gave me enough fits. Good work!
Thank you so much! I missed the Stefan video. I would have loved to watch someone else do it first so I could learn from it. I'm glad yours worked out too. And thank you again.....
