You can reach me at jplanefun@gmail.com or find me on Facebook (see below)
Just Plane Fun! This is a RU-vid channel dedicated to the proposition that hand plane parts should be affordable and available for the average user. While our prices are not always significantly cheaper than eBay, most parts typically sell for anywhere between 50-80% of the average eBay sold price.
Whether you need a $2 frog screw for your No4 Stanley or a $110 frog for your round side Bedrock 608, we work hard to find the parts you need. We just ask for your patience as this is not a full time gig... yet.
Tune in for discussions on mostly Stanley planes and parts, with a few other brands sprinkled in from time to time such as Miller’s Falls, Sargent, Craftsman and Chaplin (among others). If you have a question or a request for plane parts, the best way to reach us is thru Facebook messenger. Have you joined the Facebook group yet? If not, it’s Just Plane Fun - the parts division!
Got a Stanley 4 (Type 17) and 7 corregated. Just picked up a Stanley 192. I see a tongue and groove plane in my future, probably a Lie Nielson. Want a router plane. Does it ever end? These videos are quite helpful in many ways.
When I was at school, in the fifties, the woodworking shop had a whole couple of shelves of wooden molding planes. We were introduced to them as and when needed. Always a pleasure to use, I’ve collected a few over the years but not as many as were in that shop. Used in combination you could reproduce almost any molding required. It’s sad that modern homes have developed the current minimalist style, I like a little ornamental wood trim, it shows off the craftsmanship that is slowly disappearing. Give me a bead, cove or ogee any day over a stark 90 degree edge.
Wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around the fence rod will easily hone the profile of the beading iron. I start with 800/1000 grit and finish with 5000 grit if I want a mirror polish on the profile. The angle of most combination irons is set at 35-38 degrees. Honing a secondary bevel on the profile will save considerable time in preparing the iron for work. Always sharpen the profile before sharpening the tangs as it is easy to slip and ride up on the tang fouling your edge. Also, it is very easy to cut yourself on the sharpened tang while honing the profile. When honing the bevel on the tangs, use very few stokes as it is very small surfaced area and will abrade FAST. Removing too much of the tang will alter the overall bead profile.
You need to use the “beading fence.” It is the Stanley 45 part that looks like a large depth stop with a notch in the middle of the sole. It is designed to sit just under the auxiliary skate with the notch surrounding the tang of the iron isolating the tang from engaging the outer edge of the wood. The beading fence will just project under the auxiliary skate. The beading fence then runs along the outer edge of the board, just like any other fence and positions the beading iron to perfectly produce an edge bead. The wood fence can be added for additional stability but often projects below the bottom of the work surface striking the bench whereas the beading fence will not strike the fence.
I have a #45 and just loved this video. When I first got it I was overwhelmed. After some practice and a few RU-vid videos I got more confidence. Loved your video,thank you
That's cool, I have the craftsman version of that plane. I forget if it is a Stanley or maybe a Sargent made. But I have not gotten around to using it yet.
Thanks for including your assistant! I'm always supportive and excited to see younger generations involved with collecting, restoring, or using antiques!
A friend of mine has an 1890 Queen Anne home that he recently replaced the entire mouldings on his windows using his Stanley 55 with the reeding irons. Quite the undertaking but he was able to accomplish it.
That’s high praise coming from Mr. Meds! Almost makes me think maybe you’re being sarcastic. 🤣😅 I’ll bet you didn’t think I actually remembered how to sharpen, eh? 😎
Thank You Sir! I’m glad you enjoyed it. I thought about playing some more “sounds” and maybe demonstrating a less thank optimal sound but I ended up not going with that plan (obv)
I probably could / should have gone into more detail on both of your points. We did have some challenges with the iron clogging up with shavings but I didn’t really capture it on video. Likewise, we also took specific steps to ensure we were going with the grain (using experience & a bench plane to verify). It’s always a challenge trying to decide what all to cover. Fair points!!!
Looks great MJ . I'd have done things a lil diff. like not have the work piece over hang the end of the bench . I'd have only a slight bit of over hang & move the work piece as you go & secondly id have cut out the knotty section . A knot will dull your iron quickly or chip or break a well used iron . The final result looks amazing though . & yes I saw that Jet machine in the back ground XD sweet brother . Keep up all the great work. Everyone does things their own ways. The end result is the goal as you know . Your tha man brothaman
I probably should have mentioned that we actually sharpened two blades prior to starting the actual cutting. That way we had a spare in case something went awry. With regard to knots, I think a knot in cedar is less worrisome than a knot in say, white oak. Fortunately the iron was able to slice right thru it. That’s a fair point about moving the board as well but ain’t nobody got time for that! 🤣. Having the roller out front (on the second and third 10 footers) worked out pretty good
@@justplanefun A knot is a knot in any type of wood . Ive been a finish carpenter most of my life & when it comes to knots Uusally its cut off & mitre cut on a 22.5 or 45 degree angle . Just saying . Its what they taught me in school during the 6 years of Union schooling . just saying . Trying to plow through a knot is a waste of time & nothing good will come about it . Just my opinion from YEARS of experience In cabinet shops & years of finish work . Why work hard instead of smart or did the fellow with the material not have any extras ? Just baffles me . And in response to moving the board aint nobody got time for that . Well ( Im a friend but i will be honest with you MJ ) If I ever saw a carpenter under my command I'd send him packing Because obviously he doesnt know any better & Those are basic skills IMO as well as other true carpenters . I still love you mj you sure do try . A smart move wouldve been to get the lengths you needed instead of winging it & plowing an entire board. Just saying . Seemed like insanity
The material we had was all that was provided. It was already cut down to width as well - I would have preferred to wait to rip it to the final width until after the bead was established as that would have given us a lot more flexibility on where we cut the bead. i.e. we could have started with a 6” wide board, found a run of the board that didn’t have knots, ripped it to say, 4.5”, cut the bead, and then ripped it to final width after that. But none of that was an option because we had 3x 10 foot boards that needed the bead. If we were the ones doing the final installation, we could have manipulated the lengths (probably) but again, we were just laying down the bead and then turning the semi-finished product over for installation. So to summarize - we did the best we could, where we were, with the materials we had, and to the specs requested. Just a different mission than what it sounds like you’re used to 😉
@@justplanefun Im sure you did the best you could . I was just putting my 2 cents in. Also have years of experience doing so . Either way Im in no way hate"n just chit chatn wit yah brotha
