Excellent example of how to make carrying a fixed blade more comfortable! I learned this many years ago when I was at an Ashokan Seminar from Rob Hudson a really great knife maker and sheath maker who has since passed away. My 'method' differs from yours only a little bit, I glue the ends of the belt loop and when I rivet it to the sheath I go directly to the sheath and not having that additional piece which you show, which I think is a very good method that you present. For the hole inside the sheath I also dimple in around the hole but I use a small ball peen hammer putting the peen in directly over the hole and using my mallet to hammer down the leather to create the dished out area for the head of the rivet to sink down into. That way the rivet head is lower into the leather and the knife passes above it, but your way is definitely a safer method. I put some mink oil paste into the holes of the leather and on the rivet shaft so the belt loop swivels smoother. I've shared your channel on BladeForums as I feel your videos are very down to earth and a lot of up and coming makers will be inspired by your tips and tricks to help them get over the learning curve smoothly. Thanks again for sharing your ideas and work.
Nice work, and I also started using an airbrush but I like the type you have so you can leave the canisters set aside and clean the system easier than what mine is, it has the bowl incorporated and it's a pain to clean it out.
@@GaryGraley42 Thanks Gary It definitely was a dye game changer for me too but I get the frustration with having the attached bowl to clean I appreciate the support
Wonderful vide0.Thank you.I use a lot of leather for my busines, and you certainly helped me a bunch.Thanks againSir.Tim Sizemore,TIMS ARCHERY.GET IN TOUCH WITH ME PLEASE.Home of Steel magnum Bows
@viktorgeorge9144 yes,but I really need to talk with you about my busines .we are relocating to Oracle az .I think you may be close to where I will be liveing.I lived in catalina,and was quality manager of PSE..Could you possibly give me a call? Thanks
Thanks very much for posting this excellent tutorial. This is the most frustrating part of leather working for an amateur such as myself. Thank you again!
Question not really related to this vid but still relevant. When using a dark brown or black dyed leather with white stitching how do you keep the thread white. I use a waxed thread but it always end up looking dirty.
Dark brown / black dyes are notorious for rub off so you have two choices 1. Buy pre dyed leather or 2. Surface burnish the now dry leather after you’ve dyed it until no dye residue rubs off onto a cotton white tee shirt Lots of elbow grease If you have Instagram I show some power burnishing there Then sew and finish with choice of wax based or Resolene
Great video great tips. I use black nitrile disposable gloves to grip the needles I only have to use the plier very little. Saves the hands too and then you can use them for dying.
Thank You very much George Great video lots of little tips you probably didn't realize you were giving. Going to build a sheath now referring back to this as I go.
I would suggest leveling the entire piece with another piece of welt material under on the non- stitching side. Maybe just a little double-sided tape to hold it all together.
That’s not a bad idea It could be helpful for someone I have been doing this so long that I’ve sorta muscle memoried that step. Thanks for the comment and I thoroughly enjoy reading all the discussion
The "controversy " of drilling holes vs punching holes is people trying to justify the way they have always done things. The strength is in the thread and glue, not the leather. The John James needles are fantastic, I bought some Tandy needles and started breaking them immediately, bought the John James and haven't broken one. well worth the price.
Slightly moistened, to sink the stitches… once again, an amazingly simple and effective method that most of us probably hadn’t thought of!! THANK YOU👍🏻 Glue must fully cure… yep, I’ve mad that mistake, having to grab the gum eraser. Sheesh! Lots of good info, every time. Thanks for sharing the practical tips that all of us can use.
Thanks Chris I really appreciate your kind words and support I have learned so much from my mistakes that I think I’ll keep making more😂 My philosophy Thanks again my friend
As always a great video George. I sometimes use a drill press when doing a really thick welted holster but I don’t use a drill bit, I use a thin round awl blade chucked into my drill. I start by using the stitching chisels like you as well then drill it. When I go to sew, I use my hand held diamond awl to restore the diamond shape to the hole and ensure the hole is the correct size for the needle and thread I’m using. (Usually 1 mm tiger for hand sewing)
@@agarfrance9272 I always appreciate hearing from you and I love the concept you described Makes perfect sense and obviously works Your creations are amazing
Excellent video! You are a definite craftsman. I just started leather craft out of necessity about a year ago, and now love it. I am definitely going to try a magnetic sheath in the future. I haven't done anything that thick yet but, I have a drill press that goes from 620 rpm to 3100 rpm. What speed do you recommend for drilling the holes?
I'd be using my stitching horse on both the belt loop and welt stitch....I know you have a couple, saw them on your "shop tour" vid. Yet I've not seen you use one, that I recall! 😂
Viktor, it looks really nice even with a minor blunder. Great points to help in the future. I will be sure to try your method for creasing, maybe even heating one blade of the dividers. Back in the eighties when I made a few custom hand stitched halters I prepunched the holes using the awl on the Campbell Bosworth Sewing Machine after removing the open eye needle. Seeing your fingers close to the drill bit reminded me of the time I put the awl through the tip of my index finger. Luckily I was able to stop the machine before the needle came up from the bottom. Method does not require critique when the finished product comes out looking so good. Thanks for sharing! Cheers...Freddie
@@freddiemoretti8456 Thanks Freddie and I love the idea of heating one end of my wing dividers to crease with I’m going to try that I can also visualize your near impalement with that classic old machine Thanks for your kind words my friend
@@viktorgeorge9144 I did heat the dividers and it worked well. I may round off the one end to widen the crease wee bit. Much easier to use than regular creasing irons. The awl did actually go through my finger.Lesson learned.
I have used a thin drill bit and then wrap with rawhide lace. Or I cross stitch. A nice look. I have had issues stitching that thick with my Cobra 4. Stitch spacing gets complicated. RAM Leatherwork
As always Georgie, terrific tutorial. Luv the side-by-side start and finish stitches, yet another tip for me to utilize. BTW, the north of the border mail ain't too swift.....LOL
@@TonyNicholls-gi9le Thanks Tony Sometimes the devil is in the details 😂 I can’t believe our individual mail systems don’t play well together. Cheers my friend
@@lvxleather This my friend seriously caused me to pause at how wonderful this gesture is Your support means a lot to me and I just wanted to tell you that I shared your comment with my wife and she was equally moved 🙌🙌Thank you
Amazing timing for this contest! I made my first ever full size knife, a K Bar, recently for my son-in-law’s birthday…he is a Marine. Naturally, it needed a sheath, so I made my first ever sheath from these plans. A friend of his, also a Marine, ordered three for himself just like it. Thanks so much for the instruction and this contest.
@@6Sally5 Thank you Alan!! What an amazing USMC heirloom knife you made and I’m happy you chose my sheath patterns to complete them This made a great start to my day Alan Thanks again
