An alternative if you don’t feel like using an impact gun to get the wheel off is to loosen them with a tire iron while on the ground. Then you can lift the vehicle and remove them with ease
Very good video showing how to get to the back spark plugs overall. Where it is lacking is removing the manifold, this really makes this video not too great. You failed to mention what you used specifically to remove the 14mm and two 12mm bolts in the back. I was able to finally get them all out with a stubby box end wrench, took a lot of effort and time. Now how did you swing the manifold around out of the way? I'm still working on that but getting the manifold up and over the two bolts that the nuts secured to is giving me a very hard time. I'll figure it out, but your video could have helped much more in this area and for that I would advise people to beware, due to the level of difficulty, which you did not emphasize at all,
Yeah, the video is 12 years old, when RU-vid was basically just getting stared and this is still the only video you'll find with any sort of instructions for this job. Why? Because of the difficulty level. When I decided to video the job, I was already half way through it so I literally recorded everything during the rebuild phase, not the tear down phase and then spliced everything together backwards so it is what it is. I don't own this vehicle any longer, but I remember using the shorty wrenches for some of the rear bolts. This engine was certainly not built for the DIY'er. Pain in the rump!
I bought the cheap chinese version off amazon. Terrible packaging causing damage to the plate. I finally got one NOT bent, but very edge damaged. I touched it up with gray primer. Came with hardware but no instructions. This video was a big help.
I bought the cheap chinese version off amazon. Terrible packaging causing damage to the plate. I finally got one NOT bent, but very edge damaged. I touched it up with gray primer. Came with hardware but no instructions. This video was a big help.
I bought the cheap chinese version off amazon. Terrible packaging causing damage to the plate. I finally got one NOT bent, but very edge damaged. I touched it up with gray primer. Came with hardware but no instructions. This video was a big help.
Great video! I just got a used plate but the two bolts (B) in the center with long brackets are missing. Do you know where I can find them or the part number that toyota may be able to look up? Thanks in advance.
@@MilitarizedCitizen good to hear that you’re still in business here. This was super helpful, after seeing other videos that left me needing clarity. Subscribed. Sincere thanks.
I haven't really heard any whistle or whine. Honestly, this installation didn't sound different until around 2,500 to 3,500 RPM where there's more of a growl which is nice.
@moonkim713 Yes. I took my truck into the dealer and they said Toyota is aware and recommends not to do anything. You have to understand that, by design, all truck frames are flexible, especially C-shaped frames so you're bound to have the skid plate stiffness fighting against the frame flexibility. It's just plain physics. Doesn't necessarily mean it's wrong or broken. I check the tightness of the skid plate every 5,000 miles just take make sure I don't lose any bolts. Other than that, whenever I hear the reeking noises, I just pretend I'm rock climbing. Lol
This video is a life saver! Showing how you put the 2nd belt on and putting the 14 mm wrench on the tensioner pulley FROM THE BOTTOM saved me big time! I used 2 wrenches exactly like you did in this video. The only difference is I connected the belt to the lower right pulley last because it was easiest for me to reach from the bottom. Thanks a million!!!
Best instructional video I have EVER seen. Thank you! I am just nit sure there’s an appreciable difference that the cold air intake makes. Can you even tell?
Thanks, Chris! There's a m9re throatier sound and people say a 3-5 HP difference, but that's all dependant on each person's perspective. Overall, it's nice to have a reusable filter.
Muchas gracias hermano por explicar la intalacion en Espanol y un fondo de musica espectacular si puedes hacer todos tus video sobre tundra asi te felicito. thank you.
This is the best video I have seen yet on replacing the serpentine belts on a Camry. The outer belt installation was the bigger challenge of the two, because the clearances are tighter. Take your time and be patient, and it's not that bad. Maybe 1.5 hour job for me, start to finish. I found I only had to use one 14mm wrench, but it doesn't hurt to use two. This video helped me replace the belts on my 2011 2.5L Camry. Liked and subscribed! Thanks!
There a fuse in the wiring of the unit itself. You also need to check the fuse box inside the truck. If you cannot find it there, it might be a fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
It's alwaya a good idea to disconnect the battery when working in the engine compartment. However, with this job, none of the work is near the battery so I didn't.
You are an exceptional instructor. Thank you for creating this video. I am going to try to replace my belts now on my 2010 Toyota Camry. The car has almost 400,000 miles on the original set of belts. I successfully changed both belts. I tried to follow all directions and the job took me a little over an hour it was a bit tedious but I got it done. On he outer belt I had to install the crankshaft pulley before pushing it over the smaller pulley. I almost thought my new belt was too small. Thanks again for creating this video. My the Lord bless you
Thanks, JerveyIT; hope the video helps. Newer belts mean quicker response time and better gas mileage and should be replaced at the 100k interval. Glad those old belts haven't snapped on you yet. Good luck with the swap out!
The stock flimsy skid plates are terrible. I ended up going with a 10 gauge steel offering that really protected my radiator and hoses after hitting a deer. The trd one should be the standard minimum on all tundras, come on toyota.
Great video. Excellent step-by-step installation and tool guide. After installation, (anecdotal) the engine seemed to have smoother acceleration and a definite deeper-throated rumble between 3K-4K rpm. No codes thrown. No reset or reprogramming of any components needed. Easy Plug-N-Play. Thank you for the help on my 2020 TSS Tundra 5.7L V-8.
I would NOT recommend doing this for multiple reasons: 1) If the new belt(s) don't fit, you cannot put the old belt back on in order to use the vehicle, making the vehicle completely inoperable until you find the correct one. 2) You can break the tensioner pullies by allowing them to snap back when you cut the belt(s).
