Hey! Doing a teardown. Your videos have been most helpful in doing a chain replace. wanted to ask -- what's a good grease for the bearings? You mentioned Lubriplate and Waylube, any specific kind that is best for those? Thank you again!
Gosh its been a minute but I think you can pull it from the top and put the ball on the end of the shifter back into the socket on the shift rail. My removal video might show it you could try to watch that.
I got a camera in and the socket retaining pin on the shifter rod came out and is loose around the rod. The other video cut 1s too early to see but was otherwise helpful thanks. Good videos
@@limitsedgemachineworks1433 last question when you say torque at “25”. ftlbs or Nm. And any “should have done different” on installing the diff lock actuator? Did it self reset itself? Also thank you, will be tackling this soon to replace the chain.
It was ft lbs, I didn't get that out of the book its just what I did from experience it felt right. I thought about all of the cast aluminum engine parts I used to work on that were the same size and material and they went to 26 ft lbs. It all reset itself just fine. I never even heard it hunt for a position. @@cdgermann
I was thinking before you tore apart that transfercase that the popping noise is not coming from there. Those transfercases are solid "Toyota quality" units. The only faults are usually the shift solenoid and its usually the shaft o-ring that leaks.
Guys thank you both so much, this video helped me remove my t. Case I couldn’t believe how easy it was to remove the shifter and here i was ready to remove the entire center console haha
Sorry I do not, we tried but it did not work out. My old boss would say that the book says to just do it all over again but backwards and don't wait on it to just fall back up.
I had bad E brake adjustment, drums style inside the rotor. Someone replaced the shoes and rotors but never adjusted the brake and shoes would contact drum and slam around. It has a new popping noise now up front somewhere so stay tuned and maybe I'll tear it down some more for you guys.
I just posted a new video with an update, we set the body on so we can start work on the rear right where it was hit years ago. A darn chip delivery step van got it in a grocery store parking lot, my brothers had that car since he was 17.
I'm about to do this on my 2023 Ninja 650. Really worried with all the comments on the engine drooping even when doing one at a time. I'm using the Womet sliders from TST industries. Their video shows to start with the left side first and torque to 29.5 foot pounds, then do the same to the right side. U made it look so easy, but you've got the naked bike. Would u recommend that I put my bike on the rear stand first and use a piece of wood on a jack to brace the engine before doing the slider install? I've read that people do that a lot, I just don't know where I would place it under the engine as with the muffler and fairings, there is no room.
Hello brother, I have the exact same machine even though they're not very popular I love it, but recently the drive belt broke up and I can't figure out the part number for it, any chance you could help me out that? I would really appreciate it..
My 04 GX was ran with no fluid so chain stretched and has a light chirping noise from the hi/lo lever if I push down on lever noise quietens down. i want to rebuild it with new chain but what part will fix the "chirping" noise from lever ??
Be careful to check all of the bearings and the case bores, if they run dry the bearings spin in the case and wear out the bore. Also make sure the fork and its shaft are in good shape, the end of the fork looks like it has plastic guides for the sliding clutch, with no oil I have seen these melt off before causing noise and loose shifts. Check shift shafts that the fork is tight on the shaft, pinned on and can wear out or be bent w/ excess forces. There is a lot to trans repairs, check shifting with out the detents in so you can feel it better. Best of luck, I hope the video helps.
Thanks. I have been trying to figure out this 71 charger. It has 5 holes in the window and I have no clue. I guess a window track would be too easy.. lol.
@@Lost10mm. i was originally going to build my entire f22a4. But as I did more research i decided to go with f23a block and the f22a4 head. They don’t make too much aftermarket for it let alone the budget type but it’s doable and people will appreciate that build far more than a typical b/h/k. You really get to know honda when you build the singles
@trackshun yeah that is probably what I'm going to do with one of the blocks I have but I may just bore it over and go with the a4 head. Did you run the a4 intake or something else, that's been the only thing I'm wondering what options I will have. Or poor man port it. Thanks again bud
@@Lost10mm. a4 intake all the way. Ultimately the oem intake will help the head flow better. However, for mine, especially because i’ll be N/A, I am porting my head, therefore, porting my intake mandiold not only to match the ports on the head, but also for the throttle body, is very mecessary not just because of matching but also performance. You can port the stock f22a manifold to 70mm throttle body match I believe, but unless you’re going turbo that isn’t necessary since your torque comes from natural consumption of air and not a turbo. 68mm throttle body port match. People say h23 or an h22 welded yata yata yata. F series absolutely all the way, even the trans🥹 nah but anything is good, you’d just save a lot of money by simply porting the IM. Hp gains depend on the mods to support it. I’ll see 7-9hp just by porting it with the additional internal and external modifications. My air intake is a WeaponR Spectre. Sounds deadlt af for reals
Thanks for the informative video. I'm in the process of replacing my diff lock actuator without disassembling the entire transfer case. Question: With my diff lock actuator removed from the transfer case, I can't slide the actuator rod in/out as far as I'm seeing you move the rod toward the end of your video. I'm guessing mine moves less than 1 inch (maybe 1/2" or 3/4"). The rod moves smoothly between the in and out positions, but it's not very far. The rod "clunks" solidly at both ends of its travel. Is there a process I can perform that will give me the full range of motion like I see on yours before I install a new actuator onto the transfer case? Thanks!
Try rotating the output shafts while you move actuator rod. The teeth have to line up before it will slide all the way. Hope that helps and thanks for the comment and question.
@@limitsedgemachineworks1433 Thanks. I did try driving the truck up and down the driveway, and then attempting to move the shaft again. It behaved the same way then too. 🤔
@@sgoldste02 If you can put it up in the air safely try rotating either output shaft and then holding the other stationary, thus allowing the teeth to move past each other. Do it while applying light force to move the actuator shaft, hope you get it.
@@limitsedgemachineworks1433 This is interesting. If you watch from 6:35 to 6:50 of this video (which is in Russian or something), you'll see how far he moves the shaft, which looks the same as mine. So 🤔 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GIXmJIud9aE.html
So I had a couple actually. The E brake shoes were replaced by someone else and never adjusted so they could contact the drum if the handbrake was left on and would momentarily apply and pop doing so, it also eats front CV shafts due to the lift. I need to drop the front diff down.
Hi mi name is bruno from Argentina. I have a f22 block with k20 head piston. But one friend say me " the R.C its not good. Because de f22 head is negative and the k20 head is positive." i use all f22 but in 86mm for a k20 head. Can you help me. Thank
It is hard to pin these kind of things down without the parts in front of me, I hope I can help some though. I use this website Zeal to help get everything close and it has proven reliable. Hondas are neat because within engine family's you can swap parts around, it is just sometimes you can go the wrong way and loose compression or put a head on that just doesn't flow as well. Best of luck in your build and thanks for chiming in here in the comments. www.zealautowerks.com/kseries.html
One of the best on-line videos I've seen yet. Love the tag-team thing. Very down-to-earth folks with a flair for mechanics. Simple language and you all kept the camera rolling throughout the endeavor, really cool. I have a 61 inch great dane of which I've completely overhauled. I have to change my right side pump. I managed to find a 52 inch Chariot with a blown engine for 500.00 leaving me with 2 wheel motors(985.00 each) 2 hydro's(approx 400.00 each) and a bunch of other trinkets. Anyway, good job guys.
