45s and traction rolling, all our eyes were on you, could have driven another hour, that event was like no other and you drove an immaculate race! Makes me smile a lot - > ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mrh52yyf8Bk.html
hi alex, I want to know if for a track with many closely tight corners, it is more common to choose just lift a little bit throttle to slow down before turning, instead of frequent braking. For example, on the demonstrated track, apart from the longest straight, In most of chicanes and sweepers did u just use lifting the throttle a little and utilizing the efffect of drag brakes to achieve deceleration? Thanks so much
I don't get it. Lipos should NEVER get discharged to 3.3volts a cell. Lipo is considered empty at 3.7v/cell. Period. That's a sure way to kill your batteries! I've discharged my brand new Pulse 5500mAh batteries in my jet to 3.3volts a cell because I wasn't paying attention. Two weeks later I went to fly again and after I landed the battery was at around 3.7v/cell but it was all puffed! Why are you not talking about C ratings and capacity? Some noob is going to watch this and will try to discharge a low C rating lipo 40amps and it'll catch fire.
Hi Alex! Question here. After trying out your brake settings (both esc and radio) for my stock carpet races, I find it difficult to have a smooth entry on the corner as end up almost stopping fully. I tend to use a either a lot less EPA or a much higher brake frequency instead. Do you think that this hinders my lap times and I should instead just force myself to learn driving with such a strong brake? Or is this something that just suits one's driving style?
@@hagberghi! im running 17.5 boosted and 21.5 blinky in small tracks around our city (biggest one is the size of a basketball court) for the 17.5 boosted: Brake EPA on the radio: 50% Brake Frequency: 2k Brake Force: 100% for the 21.5 blinky: Brake EPA on the radio: 68% Brake Frequency: 8k Brake Force: 100%
@@hopeviolin783 That's a crazy soft brake setting! I'm surprised that your car even slows down sufficiently for the corners with such little brake! Is it correctly bound/calibrated to the TX?
@@hagberg i believe so, i will try recalibrating it again on the track and see if it makes a difference. Also another question, does the brake force you use change by a large amount between small vs large tracks and between different classes for touring car?
@@hagberg thank you, will give it a go. My PGS-LH II has started shaking / twitching the front wheels quickly when the car is off the ground, thought deadband might help, but no bingo. Was after a big crash
Hey mate, thanks for the vid. I’m new to Rc. I was racing 20 years ago running nimh. So, with lipo tech the rule for charging amps at capacity of battery doesn’t apply? (Ie: 6000mah battery to be charged at max 6amps). I’m about to charge my nosram hv lipo 4600 mod / 6200 graphene 4.1. I should charge these at 10amps from my charger? Thanks
I've just got the HW30840005 non polarity capacitor to fit onto my non-G2 (i.e. G1) XR10. I think it can be soldered either way on a G2 as it's non polarity however for a non-G2 does this still matter?
Hi Alexander. Thank you for the detailed video. Does all this apply (and is it recommended) for GT8 series? I use 10'000mAh IP LIHV batteries? So i would charge at 40A until 4,35V and discharge at 40A till 3,3V. Ideal storage 3,9V? a bit delayed comment, but hope you read/answer it. Thank you. Great work on your channel. (really considering 1/10 scale for the winter season)
Hello, I don't have any experience with the GT8 class. However- based on the amount of amp draw and stress on the batteries in this class, I would charge them at a more moderate rate. I also would not discharge them to try and heat them up.
I'm new to electric rc cars and I do have nitro cars and many racing quads so use to lipo batteries. Though when I checked by batter voltage one cell was 2.9 other was 4.9 until I plugged the balance plug in between the positive and negative, the was 4.1 both cells. I know I need to use that plug to charge but do I use small plug in the centre when I run?
I'm new to all of this and was told about the tire gluing. Watched a video about it and did it myself. I took my car to one practice and by the end of it the glue was gone. Does this also happen during your races with the glue you're using? If so, doesn't that change the way the car feels throughout the race?
I usually use Hot Race thin CA tire glue or AKA tire glue. Both will work well and will last several runs without the need for re-gluing. The glue won't last forever, but you should not need to re-glue that often. Every 5 runs or so!
Hi, the Lens Ghibli 1.0 and 2.0 are somewhat comparable to the Xtreme Twister body in terms of handling. There's more info about it here: site.petitrc.com/reglages/bodyshell/setup/Touring/Ghibli2.0_AlexanderHagberg_20240308/
@@hagberg That's super helpful. Thank you so much. I see you are using vertical rear body post, instead of horizontal. Is that just preference or is there a noticeable handling difference?
@joneskimracing2932 Horizontal will make the car flatter (reduced roll) but will have a faster direction change. Vertical will make the rear end feel more "in the track". The horizontal is recommended for spec racing for most conditions. Vertical is recommend for modified racing for fast and flowing tracks, and lower grip.
I personally have no experience with programming for 1/8th buggy, but I am sure that there's big benefits in tuning your servo setting also in this class!
There's not a whole lot you can do which will help. If the tire is soft enough, and racing speeds are high enough, there will be inevitable tire wear. But, if your main goal is to try and reduce/delay the ring of death, try looking into the following solutions: Lower roll center Softer springs and/or shock oil Less camber gain, especially in front Less static camber More chassis flex Less aggressive tire additive (more oil content) Less tire warming Shorter additive timing
@@hagberg Thanks for info. Will try it out. Currently get around 25 packs before it got torn on Rush 36X at SACC track KL. Running 13.5 blinky with FDR 3.7x. Camber -1. 😁
You might find the videos below useful! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IYYO7s1aOtA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DMqRblPZylw.html
Great video. I have a question regarding the 2 different G2S models. One has the frameless fan and one doesn't. My concern with the frameless fan is when the fan goes out I will have to replace it with an expensive special fan. The elite model looks like it has a normal 30mm fan on top. Does the frameless fan modem accept a 30mm fan? I see the fan frame is built into the chassis now but not sure if you can remove the fan frame ans install a regular 30mm fan?
@hagberg yes the insert it. I was wondering if the frame also comes off or if the fan frame is attached to the esc base. I know they call thoa frameless but there is still a frame it's just not apart of the fan. Sometimes in stock racing we don't need a fan so I was just curious if this esc could work in different applications. Thank you
@@hagberg so you're saying if you knew you're driving a car without weight balance, you'd prefer to tweak it even if the sping preload would have to be different? Sorry beginner just getting started here
