Geoff is a qualified and experienced trainer and assessor of cabinet making and joinery apprentices. Follow along to learn valuable knowledge and practical skills that an apprentice must master to become a qualified tradesperson. Geoff will be sharing professional tips, tricks and shortcuts well known throughout the cabinet making and joinery industry to help you achieve professional results at home. These videos can help you complete that kitchen or bathroom DIY project or upgrade your general woodworking skills for hobbyists. Sharpen your skills using hand and power tools used within the Cabinet Making & Joinery Industry If you're interested in everything Cabinet Making & Joinery please hit the subscribe button
6:00 I would safe the inner part of the jig and just lay it in the template (fix to two sides with marking tape) so the router doesn't has no chance to wiggle on just on side.😊
Thank you for this great video! It really is very helpful! Can you please confirm what size self-centering drill bit I will need to drill pilot holes for my Blum 71B3550 concealed hinges? Also, what brand of forstner bit do you use with what type of blade? Thank you very much for your time and help! All the best!
Thanks for your support, for those screw in type BLUM hinges I would recommend a small size self-centring drill bit like 5/64". I will leave a link for a small set that I use which ranges from 5/64 to 1/4" and is handy to have a variety of sizes. As for the Forstner bit, you can get these online or even at your local big hardware stores as I am not sure where you are based. Try to get a good quality one so it leaves a neat crisp cut for your hinge, I will leave a link below if it helps. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! Self-Centring Drill Bits Set: amzn.to/3XVZQKX 35mm Forstner Drill Bit for Hinges: amzn.to/3Aw11ek
@@geoffsjoinery4990 Thanks very much for your detailed reply! I really appreciate your time and help and thank you for the links! I will check out both products. All the best!
@@geoffsjoinery4990 One last question, if you don't mind. Would a spring-loaded center punch work just as well as a self-centering drill bit for the pilot holes and is there a special size I would need to get? Thank you again!
@@gjtube37 I haven't use one of those for this application. It also depends on what material you are using for your doors. I would definitely recommend to use the self centring drill bit to avoid your board material splitting possibly.
Is is critical that the bottom of the hood ride very closely to the top of the work piece, or is the dust collection still largely effective even if there is an inch or two clearance above the stock?
@@michael.schuler it works best if you can adjust the dust guard as close to your material as possible, if you leave an inch or so gap the suction won’t be as strong, definitely. Hope you enjoyed it…👍
Hi, thanks for the video. How have you found the router height stability? I have the same router and mount and found it would slowly drop as I was using it. I could find a way to lock or apply friction to stop it doing this. Have you found the same?
@@AdhocracyAus yes it did slightly drop on me one time so I quickly devised a solution which can be seen on my follow up video on this , see link below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yw8jpQ-DzlY.htmlsi=d23UPrCmyBHK6npe
Hi Geoff. I am new to woodworking. I want to build a weatherproof wooden letterbox that is postie friendly using my new table saw. I am going to spend a bit of time trying to set up my new saw for mitres as I love the exposed end grain on ply. Thank you so much for this video, it is very beginner friendly. Will check out more of your content soon. Thank you from NZ :)
@@KiwiZD greetings Kiwi from the land of the long white cloud, love NZ I’ve been over twice! Great to hear you liked the video and thanks for watching, good luck with your letterbox 👍😎
That little piece of wood to keep things flush at the 32: minute mark is a great idea especially when using glue. Even with strong clamping pressure everything is slipping all over the place while I'm attaching the pieces together. I'm going to use that idea. Thank you. Looks like it was made at the factory. Well done.
Just ordered my router lift from T E M OOO and your video showed up in the algorithm because my data is now being shared to all sites lol ....Thanks for the tutorial
I never understood why other tubers made those trenches or grooves in the underside, only means there is more air to suck out (not a lot i know), now i know you don't need to, Thanks.
I’ve seen this method on RU-vid before but they use a spring between the wood and the nuts, you’ve shown the spring isn’t needed so this is the design I will use to make mine. Thank you
@@seanmichael5751 the depth of cut depends on the rubber diameter you use for example if you are using 6mm, then router down around 4mm. You just want the rubber to stick up enough for your material to sit on then under vacuum it will squash down enough you have a decent seal. Hope this helps 👍
Thanks for taking the time, great content and well done my friend. Unique to see someone that is talking about the Amana blades in a you tube review. I see you are getting stellar results. I just tested a 10" CMT chrome full kerf 80 HiATB 38 degree with 2 degree positive rake today and was not overly impressed with it. I was using some clean but well aged birch veneer plywood and wondering if the age makes it more brittle on the chip out on cross grain. It was fairly clean but if your weren't extremely careful it had the ability to leave small chipping. I would have to use painters tape on the seams to feel confident. Your Amana blade looks to be worth testing @ $114 currently on Amazon here in the USA
Hi Graham I have left a link in the description for a set of V-Groove cutters, there are a few sizes so it can depend on how big you want your groove to be. I have only used a small 90 deg one.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing the setup. Just ordered my parts to make 2 or 3 of these. Already have my pump from the mini split install earlier this year.
I have left a link for the blades which you can easily purchase through my affiliate links on Amazon: amzn.to/3HrYktW Good luck, hope this helps and thanks for watching
Great video! THANKS! One question, What is the OD of your router motor? My Dewalt DWP611 trim router is 69mm. The product info on Amazon states "supports machine diameter is 64mm to 66mm". The 3mm different isn't much but it could be a deal breaker. Thx, Red
Hi Julie, it was actually pre-primed skirting (colonial or lambs tongue, I can’t remember) turned upside down with a routered profile. I purchased the lengths from a timber yard called “Canterbury Timbers” I didn’t want to pay expensive prices for the size dado rails I wanted so I decided to go this way and do a little machining to save money. Hope this helped & good luck with your project 👍
This video is a lifesaver! accidentally used my ½" birch as the base instead of my ¼" (I typically do ¼" as the base and ½" as my trim) so this video helped remind me I can switch it up for these cabinets. One question: What type of router bit did you use?
Hi Geoff, nice Vid and thanks. I'm about to laminate a counter top being 3600 x 600, the contact cement i'm using is Max Bond Rapid Grip which is Brush/Roller grade. I can't find too much info as to what Roller cover is suitable. Would you have any idea what the recommended is ? Cheers Bud.
Hi Rob, You can generally use a standard paint roller if you want to roll the contact glue on. 10-12mm NAP would be fine. You could also use a glue spreader, the kind you use when spreading tile adhesive glue on the wall or floor. Just get the smallest notches possible, say 3mm. Hope this made sense, good luck...👍
