Thanks for checking out the Golden Hill Farm. I do repair videos on just about anything. I also share vintage films of equipment and also show my collection of tractors and equipment.
Looks like you done well for free it is possible the exhaust manifold may be clogged there could be a peice of rust the size of a half a dollar floating around in the cooling system best of luck.
Sounds like the guy who is narrating this is very unfamiliar with old gradalls. It's a real old one with the gas engine. Most of them had 3:53 or 471 Detroit
correct probrably mid 70s since it has the spirit of 76 US bicentennial paint job red, white and blue instead of yellow. Actually, this only leaks a little compared to the newer one the town uses now
Once u cook a seal. And the clutch gets soaked. With oil. U cant save it. A new seal and a new clutch. Is the only way. Kinda like a drum brake on a car when the shoes get contaminated with a leaky wheel cylinder. Or a leaky axle seal. Good vid. Thank you.
I have an old Tel 29, critter nests were built inside. The chain track that the hoses and wiring lays in got bunched up and broke several, causing binding and pulling of wire at the bucket end of the boom. This chain track needs replaced. Would you advise to remove the inner boom by disconnecting wire harness at the bucket control and removing boom, or disconnect wiring and hydraulic hoses at actuator end, turret. Trying to avoid a wiring mess like your video shows.
I am arms deep into this exact thing right now for the same reasons on a tuck I just got. My wires are destroyed, my airline is holy, and my hydraulic lines are almost worn through. I wish he showed more detail in this video, but I got it sorted out. For anyone looking at this later: disconnect all the control wiring at the valves, pull your air line up the center (if equipped), disconnect your 120v line at the box and feed it up the center also (if equipped). There are a few covers that will need removed to do all this. Disconnect the bucket leveling lines under the boom where the union is (if equipped). Slide the inner boom out all the way and lower it as low as it will go so the bucket is on the ground. I removed the bucket (easier to pull the inner boom out with 2 people). Use the small access home on the driver side of the inner boom to access the nut on the end of the rod (1 1/8" size). Loosen the slide adjusters all the way if you can. I had to destroy 2 of mine. Remove the control plate at the end of the inner boom (if so equipped) to access all the wires and lines. I then pulled everything out of the inner boom. There will be a few zip ties and bolts holding some of this in at spots. Then pull the inner boom out. I found if it gets hung up at the very end, pry the boom upward and use a screwdriver in the hole at the bottom of the outer boom to pop the lower plastic slide. It is just sitting in a grove there. Then it will not catch the slide attached to the back of the inner boom. I removed the inner end slide after it catching and not knowing this. Just ordered everything to replace it all. They only will sell 5 of the adjustable slides at once, stupid money grab this company is. We will see how it goes putting it all back together. Trying to figure out how to get that ram back into the hole when it goes back together as mine wants to sit in the bottom of the boom. I bought 10 meters of wire track, but it looks like you will need just under 4 meters. Something else I would have liked to know.
@@winginitwithjohn8451 I was not making a video of it. I stopped posting videos a while ago. I tried to find any information about this and there is very little out there. I could take some footage showing what I am talking about as it is still currently all apart and stich it together. My truck is a rusty mess and was not at all as described before I drove 6 hours to get it. But that mess is a whole other story on its own. I take it your truck is still needing this all done to it?
I have one of these units for the last 6 years. I replace the electrical system twice; Now I have rewired to use just an ignition switch to start and a pull cord to injector pump to stop it. Another issue was the drive flange that mates up to the rear end.
You might not need to pull it all apart like mine. If its the extend cylinder you might just have to loosen the nut at the end then unbolt the base of the cylinder and pull the cylinder out the front. My jlg manlift has a leaking extend cylinder and that's what I plan on doing.
It wasn't easy with the belt on the back pulley I held the belt as far forward as I could and started the front pulley on a little with the bolt then rotated it to work the belt up onto the center sleeve of the pulley and kept tightening the bolt and rotating the pulley.
Why can't we send a couple to China or South Korea and have them make a perfect copy adding cylinder sleeves and overhead valves. Might be wrong but I'd bet people would be lined up wanting to buy one. I'd be up toward the front of the line too.
It wasn't easy with the belt on the back pulley I held the belt as far forward as I could and started the front pulley on a little with the bolt then rotated it to work the belt up onto the center sleeve of the pulley and kept tightening the bolt and rotating the pulley.
Positive gear engagement was a lie on the early SOS tractors. The 6000 and all tractors after 1965 had positive engagement. Those Red Hash marks denoted coasting gears. 5th, 6th, and 9th were the coasting gears. Dangerous as they wouldn't provide any engine braking down hill. We had one as a kid and I've got one in the shed.
Got a 4000 pulled up to bury a deer in my soybean field went to leave and the thing won’t move I shift the selecto speed and I can hear it changing gears acts like the inching peddle is depressed but it’s not ??
Sounds like it could be the traction coupling disconnected the trans from the rear end. On a 3 cylinder 4000 theres a lever on the right hand side of the transmission that engages and disconnects it on the 4 cylinder 4000 theres a little tab on the left side cover of the rear end that does it. might have to take the cover off to see if the arm is in the slot on the coupler too.
Were the 6000s ever sold in Europe ? I have never seen one working on this side of the Atlantic although there might be the odd one in vintage circles. Also, why do they look so different to every other Ford ? Different colour. Different styling. Even different dashboard.
Hello, nice job you did there. If I may ask, you did this with the engine still in the tractor, correct? How did you manage to get the old piston out? I am currently doing the same job on my 3000 with the engine in. Dropped the pan, disconnected the rods and try to push the piston out from bottom. Can't get it out. How did you?
To add to this information. The early SOS Direct drive clutch was a roller clutch. Later are hydraulic. Early only a a suction screen for transmission pump, later had an replaced filter and oil cooler. The speed selector on the Early SOS has red dangle lines on the speed sections that have no engine. braking
Haaaaa I had three large trees for logs mostly 16 fters, on the trailer so towed it down the one hill I had to for from 4th into first to get the wheels not to spin, have no idea how much weight was on that trailer. It had the Allied 300 loader on it. It was put on in June of 72. Just before haying time.
Boy did I have a Hard Time telling Dad on the ability to stay Parked when the trans is in park or the engine off!! That was a real argument. like normal . Had to argue over the ability to slow down baling on the one hill. hahahahhah
