I am pretty sure I got it at summit racing. It was a few years ago. Before we did the restoration. NPD and CJ Pony Parts had some nice kits also. I am pretty sure I selected selected summit racing. All three have been good suppliers to me.

Thank you. I am glad you found the info useful. I just created another C4 > AOD splice for a gentelane in Polad who purchased a 73 Mutang Grande. The original powertrain was replaced by a 1985 5.0 liter wngine with AOD. Just kind of slapped in there, and he could not get the engine to crank from the ignition switch, nor could be keep the engine running once he bypasses the starter relay. I spliced the disparate harnesses together for him, and put togwether a quiet electric fuel pump, pressure regular, and saftety shut-off switch, jest to get it capable of starting like expected,. I really enjoyed slicingg the two generations of neutral switch together for him, and was overyjoyed when he said it had worked perfectly. Gotta love working on these vintage vehicles.

Hi! I see no reason why not, although you may need to get some adaptor linkage fro Holley. I recomment you call them at the phone @ below and let the rep know what you are wanting to do and your current setup. I have always found their reps to be well versed and never got anything that did not work. (270) 781-9741 Please let me know how that works out for you. I know I had to purchase and install a linkage adapter for our 1973 Mach 1 with a Holley 750 CFM carburetor on it. We purchased the carburetor new, and the apdapter we needed was not part of the of the new carburetor, and the prior carburetor did not have the needed adapter. It sounds like a fairly common theme when upgrading to a Holley. Also, FYI, I am assuming the Holley 600 cfm carb has an electric choke. The oem Circuit #4 (White Wire Black Stripe) that is used for the oem carburetor electric choke does not have the proper current or coltage for the Holley aftermarket carb. If you use the oem White Black Stripe wire from the oem carb you will only get 1/2 battery voltage, and it is AC current at that, which comes from the alternator stator terminal. The aftermarket carburetor choke heater elements require full battery voltage, which is DC current. Using the Stator terminal current will cause the choke to remain partially closed longer than desired, and will cause fuel fouling of the spark plugs (plugs will clear up once the choke is fully open). I have a video on that subjectm showing how to require for an aftermarket choke heater element. It is at: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WDcskIPfLcE.html

In some subsequent calibrations a similar solenoid was indeed used to increase the throttle opening a little bit when the air conditioner compressor's clutch is activated. I think I began to see that calibration in 1977 or 1978 on some engine calibrations.

By federal law they can’t require you to use their brand of product for parts or consumables. But if the consumable (toner) you use does not meet their specifications it can cause problems they do not have to cover. Using black toner only instead of color toners may technically work, but they may claim the incorrect kind of toner was used (black instead of a color toner) which they could bounce a warranty claim in account of. I was not aware of them having no transfer belt. All I cared about was the output being of good image quality, that I could scan both sides of a document both in color and in duplex in a single pass, and the ability to scan document manually on a flat bed platen, or multiple pages via automatic document feeder (ADF), and the ability to handle paper up to 13” in length via ADF. I also did not want to be forced to replace drums every time I replaced toner. If toner does spill inside the unit I am not sure what the suggested approach is to clean it out. In the past I saw one laser printer that was shipped to a new location, and nobody removed the toner before shipping. Toner ended up all inside the entire printer. Warranty would not cover the damage. It would have cost more in labor time to clean it as opposed to just buying a new unit. The toner dusted unit was disposed of and a new unit was purchased. I learned a lesson from seeing other folks doing that.

Lynda had helped me with over 135 differer able to get around as easily I once could. ent videos where I show how to diagnose, and repair vintage Mustangs and Shelbys (1969 - 1973). When I work on our vintage pony cars she not only does the video recording, but she helps me with fetching tools and hands me parts when I am ready for them. It may not seem like a lot, but in my case it is very helpful as I am no longer able to get around as easily as I once could. In addition to doing trhe video recording she also will ask questions while I am working away at a project, which gives me an excellent opportunity to explain why I am doing what I am working on. The valve cap removal process using the Dremel tool was all her idea, but it was me who thought it would be a useful video for someone. So our roles switched for this one video. I t was extra fun for us both. If you would like to see more of my videos my channel is under the name: Gilbert Hale Feel free to browse them, and even subscribe you like. I think it is really cool that you have a 1942 Dodge Blackout. I may do more with Mustangs and Shelbys than with other vehicles, but that does mean I can't or don't appreciate other vintage vehicles.

I hope this means you have found at least one of my automobile related videos of value. Cool. It is always nice to see when folks from around the world, literally, derive use from our clips. And it is fun to do also.

It is the same process.

That is a fair and valid observation. What I was trying to sho, amongst other things, was how to start off in 1st gear manually, then manually force the AOD to go into 2nd gear, by using the 1st gear position after a repaid upshift to the "D" position (2nd gear on the original shifter detent position markers). Trying to make sense if it in writing is bad enough, and to do it on a video is even tougher. It seems to me one pretty much to just try things until they figure out the various shifter movements that will end up providing the desired manual upshifts.

@@gilberthale7777 yes, I understand and I agree. That’s great information!

Excellent...

My stupid mistake.. I created and entered a password from the wrong gmail account... Now they both work great.

@@joeroske6363 Excellent news. Thank you for the further commenting on the D1620.

73 Cougar. Cool. Beautifully sculpted cars.

I am on the road for the next 10 days and away from my servers. I will try to dig the information up from my google drive tonight. Once i have it I will post a link in this thread.

Okay,, we are in our hotel for the night. I am going to put together some info for you, and upload the resultant files to my Google Drive. I will then come back to this thread and leave another update reply with the link(s) to the files. If you need clarification that can be best provided via another video, convertible we will be back at our home late July 8, 2024. I will need to retrieve our 73 Mustang from our Casa De Shelby home, aas it is parked in that garage at this time. I hope the upcoming document are helpful enough to the point where you will not need me to do a video as it will be about 10 days before we return home from our current road trip.

Juan, I am still working on putting together some useful information, to include excerpts and illustrations from a Ford Parts Catalog. Being off-site on vacation ia aloqing me down quite a bit. But, I have not forgotten you.

Hi Juan! We are finally back home. I will try to wrap up my further response info this evening.

Okay, I have some information you ashould find useful. I have assembled a snippet of the 1965 Mustang-Falcon Shop Manual that shows details about the linkage used for the throttle and transmission, and also about how to adjust (or replace) the Neutral Safety Switch for your Mustang. That file is on my Google Drive at: drive.google.com/file/d/1mpza57hAuTB0c1xnoKYmHHd9yDsY_I-c/view?usp=drive_link In the file above you will see my notes regarding what pages you can find information about the linkage and Neutral safety switch. If you have any questions just post them to this thread and I will be notified I have a message. If the information in the file above is not clear I can and will create a RU-vid video showing how to adjust the Neutral Safety Switch, and show how the transmission linkage is set up for our 1973 Mustang, which will be very similar to your 1965 Mustang. I do have one RU-vid video that shows some information about the transmission kick-down rod at the carburetor, but it may not have the detail you need. But, it is worth looking at. the link is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IqoeYGMV6Ng.html I scours ed the 1965 Mustang Parts Catalog for Shift Rods (they call them various names in the catalog), and found a few illustrations. But for some reason they list no Shift Rods for Mustangs listed in the catalog. The various parts and illustrations I found are listed in blue text on page one of the document at the following Google File link: drive.google.com/file/d/1sxCpLSVRpwx7-FdJ_5D0kZIpY08mlboU/view?usp=drive_link The full Parts Catalog is at: drive.google.com/file/d/12kmUN5M52Vejnmjef_bCnsyN-R0PgSqN/view?usp=drive_link If you do a Google search on the following strings you will get a lot of different vendors who sell linkage parts: 1965 Mustang 7A187 1965 Mustang 7A185 If you are missing any kick-down rods or other parts you can;t find at other vendors, I suggest you contact Lokar. Their web site is: www.lokar.com/ Lokar has a large number of different shift rod solutions, but you may need to call them via phone to be able to describe what you have (Edelbrock carburetor and a C4 transmission) for them to get you the parts you need. It may also be useful to call Edelbrock to see what they recommend for a transmission kick-down rod. I know on our other 73 Mustang (Mach 1) with its aftermarket Holley carburetor I had to get a special linkage part to get the transmission kick-down to work correctly with out C4 transmission. I have since then moved to an AOD transmission, and no longer have a kick-down rod to deal with. I hope all of that helps you,. If you need more help or have other questions please send another note in this thread, and I will be notified by email.

Excellent... I am glad the info was helpful for you.

Where are you located? I am off site at the moment. Once back at my laptop I can send you some info that may help. If you are anywhere near us (Rochester, NY) I can come over to help if needed.

I finally got back to my laptop. I have a lot of documents to my Google Drive on the Pertronix system. I know there is a lot to go through. One document is specifically addressing how to diagnose a Pertronix system. Let me know via RU-vid messenger if you have further questions or need me to go through the diagnostic steps on video to help clarify the approach. Here is the Google Drive link for all my Pertronix information: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ups4ROw4mWvO6ncBcX_JCfqRZUFntk9X?usp=drive_link

@gilberthale7777 got it all figured out thank you so much. Now I'm having issues with my C4 transmission not going into gear or slipping. Any ideas? I have thought maybe the torque converter or the vacuum modulator.

Thinking it's a vacuum issue so gotta figure that out since the egr was deleted.

@@michaellee1227 If your C4 is slipping it may only need a transmission flid change, new filter, and a band(s) adjustment - if you are lucky. If yo are not so lucky you may have a band that is badly work (for 2nd gear), or seals that are leaking internally due to age (those seals harden over time, especially if the tranny ever got really hot). If you are not familiar with adjusting the bands on a C4, this is no a time to learn unless you are confident wih your mechanical abilities and have the tools needed. I use an inch-pound torgque wrench with a 1/4" aquare socket. Adjusting the bands is not something you want to estimate or do by feel. As for the Vacuum Modulator, usually the problem they cause is either> no, or a very late 1-2 gear upshift when ruptured. For what it is worth, there are several RU-vid videos showing how to adjust the bands on a C-4. The first one I found shows how he does it with no torque srench applying pressure to the adjusting bolts. That is not how I suggest doing it (I have an inch pound torque with the proper square sockets for the adjuster bolt end). If you do not have the needed equipment it is best that you go to a shop where they are familiar with these older C4 transmissions. If you arer still slipping after adjusting the transmission bands, it is more than likely time to rebuild or replace the tranny. This may be a good time to swap in a speed overdrive (AOD, AOD-S, 4R70W). I did that with our 73 Mach 1 when its C4 began to slip, badly. I love the AOD. I have all the videos showing how we swapped the aOD, to include my vendor and parts list in one of the descriptions. I also show how to adjust the AOD Throttle Pressure, which is critical in order to prevent frying the AOD inadvertently.

Cool. I am glad you worked around the password issue. It seems the way we have some nuancess set up in our accounts end up causing different behaviors. Life in the 21st century

I am assuming your engine is not stock. Are you running a carburetor? If so, which carb? The reason I ask is some carburetors have a Power Valve, where a leaking or ruptured diaphragm can allow raw fuel to leak into the intake manifold, not just when the engine is running where intake manifold vacuum can suck down huge amount of raw gasoline. rather, the fuel in the fuel bowl can end up slowly leaking into the intake manifold, which causes washdown of oil in affected culinders, and hard start due to an empty fuel bowl. Just a fe2 thoughts I conjured up re: the hard start when cold situation.

@@gilberthale7777 Its a 4160 with vac sec and electric choke (p/n 0-80457S). It's about 20 years old. First start after winter storage takes about a minute of cranking. Changed plugs this year and they were pretty sooty for only about 500 miles of use. I've been working my way through your videos to fix up the electrical and vacuum issues, but carb tuning has me baffled.

@@Kn240sx It is sounding like you have a leaking or ruptured Power Valve. By draining the fuel bowl after sitting unused, when you later try to start the engine there is no fuel in the furl bowl to squirt fuel out the accelerator pump when starting it cold. It would take some bit of cranking to refill the fuel bowl. Once it fires up the leaking Power Valve will cuse the carburetor to run very rich, and can definitely foul spark plugs. One way to test to see it the Power Valve is leaking is to warm the engine up, then turn the idle mixture screws to the far right to close off fuel flow via the idle circuit. If the engine is still idling it is a sure sign the fuel is coming from "somewhere.? Most likely the Power Valve. But wait, there's more. One reason these Power Valves will rupture is when the engine has a backfire, or even a burp back event. That puts positive pressure into the intake manifold, and that pressure is sent to the Power Valve's vacuuum chamber where the valve's diaphragm is not designed to handle such a reversal of pressure from one extreme to another. Holley, in 1992, introduced a Power Valve Protection circuit, where they use a spring loaded check ball in the Power Valve channel in the base plate to block of positive pressure, thus keeping the diaphragm from being subjected to blowback pressure. Holley actually makes a kit for pre-1992 carburetors to add the Power Valve Protection components for those older carburetors. The site for that kit is below www.holley.com/products/tools/carburetor_tools/parts/25-100QFT For folks not believing the Power Valve blowout is a real thing, here are some interesting article... www.google.com/search?q=holley+carb+power+valve+blowout+protection&rlz=1C6CHFA_enUS1044US1046&sca_esv=5ac3b5860f52b755&sca_upv=1&sxsrf=ADLYWIK9zwUATkOiBQYj_yU2FgLUVwoeRg%3A1717790082817&source=hp&ei=gmVjZsSzL8eI0PEP2N-D0Ak&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZmNzkhDeHE5xnCPtK8yMKtfgtYjecLe9&oq=holley+power+valve+protection&gs_lp=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&sclient=gws-wiz www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/01/the-truth-about-power-valves-used-with-holley-carburetors/

@@Kn240sx I would check to see if the carb has the Power Valve Protection circuit. This could be your entire problem.

@@gilberthale7777 Engine definitely stalls when I turn either idle screw in past 1-1/2 turns. Best idle is at 2-1/2 turns open. Carb is from 2003, so I assume it has the protection circuit but I’ll check. Just for reference, the engine is basically stock with all emission stuff removed. I did change the cam out 40 years ago to 272/284 duration, 484/512 lift. Manifold is some kind of Edlebrock (SP2P I think) which is mostly for low end torque. Probably not a good combination of parts, but I was in high school and didn’t know better! Also have headers and Pertronix 2. Thanks for your help!! Your videos have helped me much more than the forums!

Thank you. I know the videos I post are not polished. My focus is on providing useful and accurate information. I appreciate it when I find that there are indeed folks who get value from what Lynda and I put on our channel.

It is a pretty long video considering the content not being all that complex. But, there are some gems in it that may save someone some grief. It was fun to put together if nothing else. Perhaps it will be useful to someone who is about to engage is this kind of work.

Hi Mike! After doing some digging around I decided to not only share with you what I dug up, but to also change the description of the video so others cansee where they can acquire a similar tool. Thank you for asking about it. Do a Google Search on: CARBURETOR IDLE SCREW ADJUSTING TOOL SNAP-ON The Snap-On Tools product has a Part # of 2006IT, and is at the following website address: shop.snapon.com/product/Carburetor-Adjustment-Tools/Carburetor-Adjusting-Set/2006IT There are less costly, similar tools available from other vendors. I can not speak to their quality. I can, however, say the one I have is over 40 years old (although not used much since 1981), and is in perfect condition. Snap-On is renowned for two things, they produce excellent quality tools, and they are very costly. I have found tools from other manufacturers do a fine job for a lot less. But, sometimes certain tools from Snap-On have no equal functionally from anywhere else. This, in my opinion, is one of those tools

Thank you asking about the carburetor adjusting tool. I added the following text to the video description so others can find a similar tool if they want one. Do a Google Search on: CARBURETOR IDLE SCREW ADJUSTING TOOL SNAP-ON The Snap-On Tools product has a Part # of 2006IT, and is at the following website address: shop.snapon.com/product/Carbu... There are less costly, similar tools available from other vendors. I can not speak to their quality. I can, however, say the one I have is over 40 years old (although not used much since 1981), and is in perfect condition. Snap-On is renowned for two things, they produce excellent quality tools, and they are very costly. I have found tools from other manufacturers do a fine job for a lot less. But, sometimes certain tools from Snap-On have no equal functionally from anywhere else. This, in my opinion, is one of those tools,

@@gilberthale7777 thanks Gilbert Ill get my buddy that owns a grage to order one in for me tomorrow !

They obviously felt the job needed to be completed properly. heh heh

Good to hear. Glad I was able to help you.

Just me trying to find a way to keep the ground wasps from causing us needless grief. I left the handle and trigger taped all night, and in the morning when the wasps still underground tried to fly out to forage for food the zapper still had plenty of juice to nuke them also. In time all the wasps int the air and underground met their fate like this, other than the queen wasp who most likely ended up starving to death when her loyal subjects had all been zapped. If there is a Bug Hell there is little doubt I will be going there.

​@@gilberthale7777ya got beefarms or sumth ?

Awesome! I am glad it worked for you (also). It’s one of those things that looks obvious in hindsight. And once learned you will use that technique time and again. Plus now you can amaze your friends who work on (vintage) cars. Heh heh…. What is really cool is it is so basic the it will work with newer vehicles also. Timeless.

@@gilberthale7777 I could not find the part 2 of your post.

@@Dave-ru2qh You caught me. I was going to show an alternative burping method for enginess that have a different design for heater core hoses. But the vehicle I intended to use for the video was sold by its owner, unbeknownst to me. I will alter the topic header of this post to eliminate any potential confusion. The approach is the same, but where I was going to take off the heater core coolant return hose was a little different.

Greetings! I know I have seen quite a few cars where folks have just pulled all the various vacuum hoses, likely out of frustration and perhaps also in the belief they would improve things. I am not a purist for the sake of being a purist. But, for the most part the various vacuum related engine components really did not harm performance unto themselves. In fact some of the systems are beneficial in a few different ways. In 1973 the engines were indeed modified to further reduce NOx emissions by using less combustion chamber compression, increasing combustion chamber quench surface area, adding an EGR system, and retarding the valve timing a little bit. It is possible to reduce the number of vacuum lines to the most basic distributor vacuum advance diaphragm hose, and the automatic transmission vacuum modulator valve. But, in cases where the vacuum advance diaphragm have a dual port design, you really should replace those dual diaphragm design units with their single diaphragm design from 1971 or 1972. That said, I would be leaving the 3 port Thermal Vacuuum Switch in place as it replaced ported vacuum with intake manifold vacuum when the engine temperzture hit 235 degrees or so, in an effort to help cool the engine off. And, there areva few different flavors of single vacuum diaphragm Auto Transmission Vacuum Modulator valves, with different color stripes on the outside of the units to indicate the specific design of any particular unit. I have found the Green Stripe Vacuum Modulators work best overall. But with any kind of modification, YMMV,. If you would like I would be glad to look at your engine's vacuum calibration and let you know which vacuum hoses and devices I would be keeping, and which ones can be safely bypassed. Just reply to my post and I will read it, and provide more help where I can. Please rovide the year engine, size engine, and a photo of the white label calibration code info from the passenger side valve cover (if it is there). Some photos of the current vacuum lines with the engine might be helpful also. You can sent the photos to my email @ gilhale@gmail.com.

@@gilberthale7777 thank-you for the detailed reply!! I will get in touch soon. Mine is a 1973 Ford Maverick 302 auto

@@imagoflyfishing9993 Okay, I will do some preliminary digging

I enhanced the 302 Vacuum Schematics for 3-11A & 3-11D for 302 2v engines and auto tranny for the Maverick (and other) model vehicles. You can retrieve it using the following link to my Google Drive: drive.google.com/file/d/1MMCKqJOygplF1JtKi1O_C60Bqi1B6Sy5/view?usp=drive_link

@@gilberthale7777 thank-you so much!!! This is pretty much everything!! I cannot describe the amount of thanks for this!!!

Thank you, Charles. I so enjoy working on our vintage Mustangs and Shelby GT500. Every time I do work on them, tinker with them, show them, or drive them I am 19 years old again. They are such a blast to have. I feel so fortunate to have several of these treasured vehicle. I also love to share info I feel may be of interest on RU-vid. It is especially reqarding to me, personally, when folks take the time to let me know whaqt their thoughts are, or how the videos helped them out.

Cool! That is what it is all about re: why I opted to share this info on RU-vid. I sometimes wonder how we survived as a species back in the Dark Ages (per-Internet and pre-RU-vid). I am glad is was able to help you out.

Excellent.

I am glad you found the video useful. Most of my RU-vid channel videos are about diagnosing and repairing/servicing vintage Mustangs, Cougars, and Shelbys. But, once in a while I will slip in a computer related technical video. I am always happy to see the information Lynda (wife) and I produce being found by fellow enthusiasts.

Thank you. I hope you found the info in the video useful.

Very cool/ Thank you for letting me know it worked out for you also... It is good to hear what I posted has been of good value to others.

@@gilberthale7777 Totally agree! My previous machine, a Brother, did Google Drive storage a lot better, but it turned out to be a piece of junk. This is a real game changer for us, as we scan a plethora of documents, and having to re-invent the wheel just to do a duplex scan had me trying to figure out this method. I forgot that the machine defaulted to port 25, and expected that setting to be in the email/iFax settings; not in network That's what I get for assuming!

You are correct in observing that my idle speed does not slow down that much when shifting from Park to Drive at idle. There are a few things than can cause the idle speed to drop significantly at idle when shifting from Park to Drive. • The idle Air/Fuel mixture screws are set on the lean side, • A belt driven accessory (alternator, power steering pump, water pump, air conditioning compressor) is dragging the idle speed down due to saererid cpmponent(s) having excessive turning resistance, • The alternator is putting out a much larger amount of current than normal, such as when running after the battery has lost a significant amount of charge. When the alternator begins to put out current, it will slow the engine down a bit, • The torque converter has excessive drag/d]friction internally. Item #1 is fairly easy to remedy. In my case I use a diagnostic tachometer and my hearing & sense of vibration to adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screws. In short I turn the idle mixture screws (using a special screwdriver) to turn the screws (one side at a time(counter-clockwise, which is richer) until the engine no longer increases in idle RPM. Then I turn the screw in clockwise (leaner) until the RPM had gone up, but just begins to lose RPM or run roughrer. I then turn the screw slightly counter-clockwise to richen the mixture until the engine is at its highest idle RPM. I do the same for the 2nd side. And I do this after making sure the ignition timing is correct. Once the idle mixture is set I adjust the idle speed, then reset the idle mixture screws once again. After you have adjusted the idle air/fuel mixture screws, adjust the idle with the tranny in Drive. If the issue persists you can begin to remove one belt at a time to see if there is a component that is dragging, thus causing the idle speed to be slower than normal. Do not run the engine for any longer than needed when the water pump belt is off. There really is no easy way to test the torque converter to see if it is causing an excessive drain on the engine. I check all the other potential causes first, then will call out the torque converter once ruling out the other possibilities. In most cases I have found the idle a/f mixture was set too lean, and/or the alternator is under a larger than normal load for some reason - usually charging a battery with a low state of charge.

Thank you for taking the time to write. I will start investigating immediately. Keep you posted.🎉

I am glad you liked the video. Lynda (wife) and I enjoy making them. Nothing fancy. Just solid and useful info on diagnosing, servicing, and repairing these vintage pony cars. I always enjoyed working as a tech in those cars from back then. Now retired from the computer industry I get to tinker with and work on our own little fleet of older pony cars as much as I want-at least during Car Season (we live in Snow Country, Rochester, NY). Most Ford/Lincoln engines of that era were given an idle specification of usually 600-650 RPM, with an engine running at normal temperature, after setting the dwell angle of the ignition points and the base ignition timing with the vacuum hose for the distributor vacuum advance disconnected (temporarily) and plug, in drive with auto transmissions. The safest way to do this is with a 2nd person inside the car who is applying the brakes while the tranny is in drive. I have seen a few too many cars in drive with the parking brake set on move forward either due to poor brake condition, incorrect parking brake cable adjustment, not enough of the parking brake pedal was pushed down, in some models when out in drive the 0:25 parking curb to rest the driver side front tire against before setting the parking brake and putting the tranny into drive position. Doing that I never had a runaway car situation. My tune-up partner did the same thing. He also never had a problem with a car setting away from him. But, when at home working on these older cars I far prefer to have a friend, son, or wife in the car holding the car still with its regular brakes when in drive as I adjust the curb idle. As for the actual specs for your particular car and engine the m specs I proved above are very general. I recommend you dig up the specs via a google search. Or as an alternative message me back with the year model, engine, and transmission type and I will gladly look the specs up for you.

Thanks so much for writing back. I have watched most of your videos. I was able to get my timing adjusted correctly thanks to you. I also have a 73 convertible with a 302 2V.

Our vert is also a 73 with a 302 2v and an auto tranny. So you can set your carb up like I show in the videos where I am I using the vert as the subject vehicle.

I am glad it was helpful for you.

Excelent! Thank you for sharing that. It is good to see when what I publish is helping my fellow world citizens.

I am sincerely glad to hear the video was helpful to you. Our AOD came out of an F-150 with 4x4, hence we got the shirt tailshaft & housing. This our original c4 driveshaft fit with no adjustments or alterations needed. Luck of the draw.

I will see if I have the vacuum schematics for the 1979 Bods 302. I prefer to do that as opposed to taking a guess at a general configuration to try, although I am confident what my gut tells me is going to be correct anyway. Please stand by as I research this BTW, I am a huge fan of Boss 302s from back in 69 & 70. Huge. I feel honored to be getting asked to help find out how those engines were configured for the vacuum systems. Truly honored.

Okay, we got lucky. I do have a copy of 69-70 Boss 302 engine vacuum calibrations on my Google Drive at the link provided below. There is a subtle difference between the the drawing on the left side of the page, and the right side. The difference is on where the vacuum source for the hood scoop air flap vacuum motor comes from. Functionally there is no difference, but the routing of that particular vacuum line differs between the two drawings. Here is the link for the one file: drive.google.com/file/d/17kcVttPb3mKM30b_QsQRF5Fk9APFDVwS/view?usp=drive_link I have a lot more vacuum schematics for 1968 - 1972. I consolidated all the files I got from The Mustang Barn, with their knowledge and permission, into a single file, located at: drive.google.com/file/d/1zE7_8E5NsaInM69KPkzRuZZeWFNpbz0i/view?usp=drive_linkFell free to share this info with anyone who made it. The Mustang Garn published it for free use.