Hi..i had a question ..just out of curiosity Can i weld the spokes at the nipples..where the spoke and nipples meet..after getting the truing done.? There is no wheel truing shop nearby where i live...i live at a semi urban area... Most of the tym i have done truing myself by placing markers on the opposite side of the rim for lateral and also for axial line..but the wheel gets out of true in 2..3 months..bcos of the bad roads here.
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN got it,i have a Yamaha fz, i am thinking of switching it's brake line with pulsar 220's, As per pricing this one seems highly vfm,should i opt for this one over pulsar 220's.Thats why i was asking about the performance compared to the oem one,Sir your suggestion is highly appreciated 🙏🏻
This is by far the best comparison of these two bikes out there. Much appreciated! I think there is a reason why (at least for now), RE is offering both of these two bikes in parallel. Because they are so different and cater to different audiences. But if there is one more comparison I would love you to make - it would be 411 scram vs 411 Himalayan.
1. Steel rims are heavier but more durable than aluminium. These aluminium rims are not super high quality to take on hardcore offroading. Himalayan is not a hardcore offroader. Not many options though in Indian market but Himalayan is a adv. 2. Why the banter on the capability of the tyre ? Are there any parameters to judge whether a tyre can take different type of flats , deflated rolling etc ? If the tyre load index is good then it's ok. Also first time I've heard that tube type loses air slowly. I knew tubeless loses air slowly and tube type loses air instantly. 3. Yes if the tubeless rims are bent then you lose air unlike tube type because there is a tube in it. 4. People commenting about Dakar doesn't know that it's a circuit. Imagine you are off-roading somewhere and you have a puncture? Would you pick tube or tubeless rims ? Ofcourse tubeless rims makes sense especially in India where too many nails and whatnots are present in roads.
Hi Ben, I'm still facing the same issue I have changed spark plug and changed the heating sensor on silencer and checked the fuses as well and we have checked by fuel pump but still same results Please let me what is the issue
Hi Ben I am getting the new guerilla 450 this Sunday. I just wanted to ask that, can we break in the engine in a week, riding 100 kms daily from that day only, like straight out of the showroom I do 80kms, with frequent breaks ofcourse. Is it ok for the bike's health???
@ben i really liked your description of the extra shock absorbing capacity of tubed tyres compared to tubeless, outer tyre + inner tube + shock :: compared to just tyre+shock. Plain physics !
not very accurate explanation. Tube tyre can lose air instantly on getting punctured. just matters on the size of the puncture. small nail-slow puncture. Thick metal object- instant puncture. Tubless tyres never works for solid hammering off-road. but more reliable for high speed on-road. For tube tyres, best option is to use tyre-catchers. in case of an instant puncture, bike will remain more stable as tyre will not come out of the rim at high speeds . On rally bikes we used tyre catchers with twin tubes. in case of puncture, we can remove the nail and inflate the 2nd tube and ride on.
I Hate This Tube Type Business at all. Apart form this Puncture problem 90% of the people don't know that Tube Type are not very Recommended for High Speed Cruising, you have to Use a very High quality Tube, other wise going above 120 is a Huge risk, because if the tyre pressure is Low Heat will generate & the tube will Explode causing a catastrophic Accident. There are a Lot of videos on RU-vid of tube Bursting at Higher speeds.
I am so confused now 😵💫 What I knew was that you can ride on tubeless for a while before it gives up but tubed ones deflate and make in really difficult to ride as soon as puncture happens… And if you have a puncture in the middle of nowhere with a tubed tire you have to change it right you can’t ride with it, would you..?
I am so confused now 😵💫 What I knew was that you can ride on tubeless for a while before it gives up but tubed ones deflate and make in really difficult to ride as soon as puncture happens… And if you have a puncture in the middle of nowhere with a tubed tire you have to change it right you can’t ride with it, would you..?
Totally agree with you on this. I have been wondering if the tubeless tyre over the spoked rim was a good idea, it made the repair job difficult, it is very difficult to get that tyre to break the bead. It would have been far better if the tyres were normal tyres with a tube.
Hello Ben, I follow some colombians with their himalayan 411, last week their engine failed catastrophic, there was no oil. Long distance travel with more than 365kg… So if I were to do the same I want to know when and how to avoid the engine to die. Please tell us how to install? do you remove the washer on the spark plug? If you change the insertion dimension does that affect the effectiveness of the spark? Thanks a lot!
@@eliut6855 never go past 5200 rpms for long periods . Keep 5200 as the limit . The oil consumption will be much less. Yes remove the washer from the spark plug and install this . Keep the wire facing the engine wall .
@@ONTWOWHEELSBEN here is a silly question, how would you compare a himalayan 411 with a suzuki dr650? it weights 160kg, but it costs much more… Thanks for all your videos, you are the reason I’m keeping my 411
Yes, you can install a tube in the tubeless system if need be. The real problem with the cross spokes is that the rim is wider and kind of over-hangs the edge of the tires. A sidewall rock strike will directly impact the cross spoke attachment area. An impact to the spoked rim edge will result in a worse bend than if you had the narrower tubed rims in the same situation.
The tubed rims are actually different from the tubeless rims,the latter has a specific lip to stop the tire comming off if you have rapid deflation, I know loads convert the OEM rims sucessful, but bear this in mind
2 seconds on 0 to 100 is a massive difference. Our Subaru Outback does 0 to 100 in about 10 and some change. I would LOVE it it could do that in 8 (though the chasis would likely not play along). If I manage to get the Scram (I am a married man, so it is 'a process') - a cam update will most likely be something I will go for once I will collect some more experience. Thank you for your informative, honest, down to earth videos. Much appreciated.
I bought a 411 with 6k on the clock thanks to you, BS4 as well, I rode it last month, was wonderful, the things I'm going to do to it and subsequently with it :D How do you keep your bike so clean! I really want to know. I'll search for a video if you have one on the subject. Almost every other bike's internals I see is terrible, I think the key is to work on your own bike as much as possible? Looking forward to taking mine apart after a bit and rebuilding the electrical, that bike I'm buying seems to have a rat nest of wires iirc.
