The idea is wery good however in my opinion you need to make the whole bolt lighter beacuse a lot of energy is wasted when it is acceletrated. Also the velocity is not going to improve if you add more springs because in this case the limiting factor is the speed at which the springs contract. You could still output more energy by using more springs if you make the weight of the projectile the limiting factor instead. Tldr lighter bolt mechanism, more springs and heavier projectile should result in more "muzzle" energy.
You could strengthen wood by using RED OAK. laminate 3 pieces to make slotting for trigger mechanism Again strengthen with inner or outer laminate of 1/8” metal plate. SORRY .0125 inch or 3.4mm or ???? Move springs to sides of stock or under for better SIGHTS options. Extremely Interesting. ❤❤
Unistrut with internal springs, grip trigger, grip handle for shotgun reset, maybe even a magazine with auto load. Pump action unistrut shot gun, maybe even shoot grapeshot. Pulley reducer for powered pump action. Is there a way to use a small spring? Instead of multiple?
Аппарат вполне приличный. Сделан очень добротно. Но я бы вместо большой гайки поставил резиновую или силиконовую прокладку (втулку) для смягчения удара.
No! You butchered that shoe! Haha jk. It was fun to see and Im glad you did this demo. Im a farrier and I have learned a lot from your channel. I like to make little gifts out of horseshoes for their owners. Its a fun way to show appreciation. Thanks for your videos!
I’ve just found your channel now mate and I must say your videos are the best I’ve seen so far, pretty bummed you’re not releasing videos much anymore. Love your work!
I really am surprised to see that you don't wear any ppeother than perhaps a pair of glasses when working with red hot metal, a leather apron should be mandatory imho.
Im a surveyor, i use hammers every day. I also use a gps pole. I typically use 3.5 pound hammers, but 2 pound hammers dont really cut it. Less swings is less strain. That isnt to say i havent had problems, but my gps arm is far worse than my hammer arm. I have some bone spurs, constantly was getting tendinitis in my elbows. My gps arm has 18mm bone spurs vs my hammer arm with 12mm. I too was concerned with longevity. After speaking with numerous health professionals, i learned that damage to my forearms and wrists (i cant do standard pushups anymore) was largely because im not engaging my shoulder properly while using both the gps and the hammer. My forearms and wrists were taking the force. The reason why my shoulder wasnt engaging properly is because my posture has me hunched too far forward and was having limited mobility. They were absolutely correct. Been fixing it, my forearms and wrists are both improving. My swings are on point. In terms of technique, its less important per say to think about how youre swinging the hammer and more important about to think about how youre striking the object. Use the weight of the hammer to do the work, try to hit it as square as you can, and finally, this is the part that takes a lot of practice: pull in the hammer just a little bit back towards you just as its about to strike (that helps ensure youre putting the most force into it). Only keep as much grip on the hammer as to not lose the ability to control it. If youre trying to determine what is the best weight, bigger is better...but only if technique doesnt suffer. I mean being able to reliably swing the hammer by gripping it as far down the handle as possible, and being able to control your aim without excessive grip. A good idea is to have multiple hammers, and if youre finding your technique is suffering from fatigue, drop the weight down by half a pound. If you run into fatigue at 2 pounds with proper technique, then its time for a lunch break and rest. Edit: I'd like to add, it's worth looking into getting a graston tool for massaging out the ligaments in the forearms and the wrists. Don't try to emulate what you see on RU-vid what people do with those. They are experts. Go much, much lighter on yourself. My wrists are starting to return from it, and I wish I knew about it years ago. Literally cost me 20 bucks cad.
This is interesting stuff and I’m glad I found your channel. I have some hardened ballpeen hammer heads and I’m making new handles for them. I’m thinking of using a Chicago screw to secure the head to the handle. This means drilling a hole through the head from side to side, right where the handle hole is. My questions to you are as follows. Do you think a Chicago screw will hold up and secure the head to the handle under normal use? These heads are 3” long. Not big. How do I soften the steel to drill the hole and then restore its hardness? Is the hardness uniform throughout the head or is it softer on the flat end? I know nothing about this topic and I’m learning as I play. Thanks for your help. Paul
Your anvil face is a hammer, and believe me, it's not made of medium carbon steel. Steels of the same hardness don't necessarily share other properties. Your hammers are lacking.
You could use the final "slam" to trigger a lever which whiplashes the bolt at the end of its travel. This could be as simple as a captive weight on a pin attached to a lever or a spring. This is the "whipcrack" launch method, and it could add a subatantial final "kick" up to final launch speed. You need a much longer throw, and more powerful springs. You can also lightening all the moving parts, maximising the acceleration.
Last pair of tongs I made (bolt tongs for 30 mm hex stock) took me about 30 hours. All hand hammering, using a charcoal forge and manual bellows. I learned a lot from them, and they are quite close to what I was envisioning. Next ones will probably take me half of that, because of what I learned. You need to put in the time to learn. Understand each step of what you are doing and how to move the material where you need it. It takes time, sure, but that is true of all skills.
