Whether you are a fresh classic mini owner or a seasoned vet this Classic Mini channel is a great place to learn how to perform simple and sometimes more complex tasks on your car. We tackle everything from simple oil changes to long term supercharged engine builds and everything in between.
You can replace all 6 bolts with these pins (3 on each leaf spring). In the rear, there’s two bolts you replace with these pins. The upper bolt of the two, you do have to trim a little bit but it works just fine (plenty of threads left, bolt still protrudes past end of nut, may be tough to get crush washer on but it works). Just make sure you thread the nut on before cutting the pin with an angle grinder so you can un thread the nut which fixes the messed up threads from cutting.
If the front wheel nuts start to work themselves loose, you usually feel it it in the form of very sloppy steering. Usually enough warning. If you just forget to tighten the nuts, then they can come off more quickly.
Really nice job. It's really good looking. Would you share the model and the color of the seats you put in the car. Because i really like them and would like to buy them for mine.
The seats are the Cobra seats sold from Minisport actually! But I recovered them with a local trim company here in NC. usa.minisport.com/mini-classic-gt-headrest-black-soft-grain-vinyl-outers-black-basketweave-centres-black-piping.html
They should just make it so that you can do it without removing the engine on all vehicles. Why do they make this shit so hard. Stupid engineers don't know anything about fixing what they design.
IMPORTANT CORRECTION: Want to add a pinned comment to this, at the 23:27 timestamp youll see I put the washer on BEFORE the pinion gear. This is INCORRECT. Please note that the washer needs to go on after the pinion gear follow then by the nut. Apologies for the mistake in this video!
haltech is mind blowing. i literally just watched them cook a bbq chicken with a haltech unit!!!!it literally can do just about anything with very few restrictions
Lol I haven't seen the BBQ chicken cooking but I do agree these Haltech units are absolutely astounding in terms of ease of use and the functionality they have.
I noticed on my 1965 mini moke the engine is very loose. Do you know how difficult is to replase the probably worn two engine rubber mounts at the bottom?
Shouldn't be too difficult, youll want to lightly support the engine with a floor jack, then undo the nuts/bolts holding the lower mounts in. Then you can swap in the new ones reversing the removal steps.
You would think they'd add a hole in the sleeve pin as well. Some have grooves in the bushing to allow grease to flow down the grooves and lubricate all the way around the pin. Since the pin is fixed are you worried a majority of the grease is just making its way to the edges? Ive been trying to find a solution for my tundra but unfortunately my shackles seem much larger than anything they sell as a greaseable alternative. In my head it doesn't make sense, you want a majority of the grease between the pin and the bushing. If the sleeve pin is just a hole with a bolt through it how does it go between the bushing and pin? Or are the hydraulic forces of the grease able to squeeze through from the outer edge?
I have that exact same master cylinder. I can't get it to start "squirting" at all, just can't get it primed.... Have renovated it so it should work. Anyone knows if this thing could get it going?
Looks like the sprite used mostly an inline a series so that shouldn’t be any issue. It didn’t originally come with an HIF44 though so you’ll likely need a new inlet manifold to suit our throttle body
Approximately 7000 miles and mostly road driving with about 30% forest road driving. No crazy aggressive off roading and I don’t drive my vehicles hard.
@classicminidiy wow and they gave out that fast. What a terrible product. Mine have about 15k on them and I have a slight clunk while going over bumps... all my driving is road
New to the channel, is this the first mini build you have done or very experienced? Love the channel from AUS. Saving for another mini (had a 850 as my first car)
Hey! Sorry for the delay in response. :-) I have owned my mini for about 14 years so I have about 14 years of experience with this car and many other minis. So def not my first rodeo
It's down to personal preference and you con configure a recirc system, or omit the blow-off entirely, though doing that has some implications on the turbo. One thing I will say is that the video makes the BOV sound super super loud when in person it's very mild.
A nice car, well done. The only fault is that you need to concentrate more on your focusing. You couldn't read what the parameters were on the lap top, nore the figures on the car's gauges.
Oh you're saying when I was doing the screen recording section of this video? I recorded it in 4K from my computer but the text is really small. I will keep that mind in the future!
Awesome video, like many others. You are so good at this, man. Why would anyone replace a newer servo breaks that has a much better feel to a yellow tag?
Thanks! Most common reason is wanting to simplify the look in the engine bay or needing the space occupied by the servo for something else (eg. larger breathers, ignition coil, etc). I actually always preferred (in my mini) the feeling of yellow tag or single line brakes. The servo doesn't add enough stopping assistance to me and prefer the more raw feel in the older car. Now on my tacoma....I wouldnt wanna drive it without a servo haha.
I would check your driveshafts and make sure they are not contacting the exhaust pipe. The fact that its only when you're going up hill makes me think its something related to the engine position, potentially leaning back and causing something to contact outside the engine.
I know it's blasphemy, but I would love to ELECTRIFY a Morris Mini. I've seen a few builds and the low weight + EV torque makes for a fantastic driving experience. I have sourced a 997cc Mk-1 Morris Mini with a dead engine, so I just need to figure out how to get and install the EV components ... it's the start of a BIG project.
There are ready kits with extended battery reaching 200miles range ... A bit expensive but they are bolt on kits for ease of installation. Have a look if you haven't seen them already.
@@Glathgrundel there are kits but the companies refuse to sell to homebuilders/ diyers last I asked. It's like 30k in the US for installation. Thought about getting certified to do it and then just install one and done...
I initially thought you were making a joke about me censoring the speedo but now I see what you mean. I might need to add some more cells to the table.
@@classicminidiy surprised it isn't something that is auto-interpolated... Don't see how it isn't linear. Should definitely be a setting if it isn't already. I'd harass Haltech about that.
So it is interpolated on the Haltech side but the smiths gauge has a non-linear step starting at 10mph as the bottom step. The left side of the speedo is tighter than the right. It could also be related to the gearbox speed sensor. It came loose recently and had to retighten but it may still not be fully seated (big hands small area). Will need to get loctite on it to be certain.
I`m just about rebuilding my radius arms for my 75 Inno 1300. Watching your video helped me finishing that job nicely - thank you for sharing! What I´m left with is the radial play that I found on both radius arms - that play is about 0,2mm, which I think is too much... From the theorie the tolerances of radius arm + shaft + xxx sum up and you need to "adjust" the installation somehow. My idea is to install the roller bearing NOT fully home, but stand off a couple of x/10mm and press that bearing home with the actual used shaft. This results in Zero axial play. Question to you: how do you set your axial play?? Thank you for a breif response.
I like this, however, something I cannot find ANYTHING about, is the rod change selector box maintenance and refurbishment. Wher the rods go in and out, there are bushings? But are they replaceable or not? the bushings in back are not easy...and just in general, I see nothing about it, just removing it as a unit, putting it in as a unit. I would like to see a teardown and restore job on a unit. I have two that are 40+ years old and I have no idea if they're serviceable or not because of that "bushing" if there actually is one?
Great video. As an alternative ..Petrol/Gas is great to clean and soak parts overnight...use a small paintbrush to cleN. Also ...a good idea to set the float level after fitting the needle valve and check the float itself is not punctured.