Big thanks for this detailed and explanatory video, fixed my cluster today based on your advice and everything works again! Only got an issue with my radio volume not going down completely and loss of sound quality when i turn the volume up...got any pointers to fix that maybe?
I solved it using WD40 for electrical issues. It's working right now. Don't Know if it is a temporary fix, but it is ok for now. I suggest trying this way before if you are not familiare with soldering
im thinking of buying one just to use it for its RF Out Put for an old mini B/W tv i have got. maybe theres a way to get linux onto it or change the spinspin drive out and replace with an SSD for giggles
An excelent tutorial video. It occurs to me you could leave it mainly assembled, disconect sky sata from the HDD, and then use an extension SATA cable to connect up
Hi, you're doing an excellent job, yamaha should hire you, my issue is different, the screen light on but without image and without sound. There's no light on the buttons either. What do you think?
I have a csp-170 and when i press the keys the sound is terribly distorted and high pitched noise but no piano sound unless you hold the key and you can hear it under the distortion both in headphones and speakers, the power button also doesn't turn it on only when plugging it back into the wall will it turn on by itself, what could it be?
Really useful video. With regard to your Startech External caddy, can you get one with just slot? How would I ensure that I was buying one for the correct hard drive? Thanks
no questions. Just for interest. I am diagnosing this very issue today, same model 209 EP. Your vid was very helpful in focusing the trouble shooting. I had already done the audio tracer thing up to output of mother board, so it was mother board issue and Yamaha just said "not repairable, obsolete." Reading some of the comments here some have distorted issues. No sound but all functions seem to work, same audio amp working, aux inputs fine. Nothing at Aux out. Your cct dia showed me the outputs of the DACs at pin14 on each so i injected audio there proving the op amps working. What is funny is I spent a while here on line looking at other threads in forums, and having lunch, all while the yamaha was turned on and demo mode playing with obviously no sound. Just found the chips on Ali Express and about to order when huge ripping scratching noise from workshop, and suddenly music pouring out of left channel. Then it intermittently went good/ off/ good/ noisy, then distorted for a while, more noise, then back to good again. Freezing the DACs didnt change anything. heating with hair dryer caused one more fit of noise but not a second time. Ha ha. gonna replace both. I have noted all this here for the next poor victim who comes along seeking help. For their information the demo mode still plays ok with the two sub boards removed, but that will stop the keys playing. Running demo to prove audio at pin 14 of each DAC with left hand sub board removed for access works fine. Link to a supply of DAC chips....theres heaps on Ali Express... www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-pcm1702.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0
Works great, thank you. Excellent instructions on how to open the mouse. Needed to clean the wheel and did it without hassle (despite the item being a dud itself).
the removal of microswitch almost got me a new mx 3s the lmb wired-ring on pcb of middle leg socket peeled off when try to get the old one off. but i came back to this vids and soldered it and it worked thanks
Thank you for sharing the informative video. One of the few I've seen that has good dialog and detailed instructions on the Omron solder removal and install process. One suggestion note is to clean the flux from the board after soldering with some alcohol and Q-tip or small toothbrush. Thanks again.
You should NEVER use a hot air solder on these boards, they get waaaayyyy too hot. Normal solder iron works best and wont melt the board and everything around where your working, as you can see by the tinfoil heat shields.
thanks for the video and the switch reference! similar issue with mine with microswitch fatigue, with mostly spurious click releases. the mouse is about 6 years old.
Looks like a lot of work to fix a defective product. Maybe it is better to just throw it in the trash and never buy another Logitech mouse again. Problem fixed.
I changed the both IC28 and IC29. First was the Left channel crushed, and aprox. one year later the other. The amp. work well, the AUX IN work well in speakers and headphones. So I've decided to change the both PCM1702. Well, the sound comes back in both channels but sound very distorted, unrecognized sounds in both channels. Almost all presets sound like a fuzz guitar. I got the audio signal directly from the motherboard, from the out multi-connector and sound igual, bad... do you have any idea?
see main comment I just posted re intermittent noise/distortion. Have you got any further with the issue? I am about to order DACs so the distortion thing might be another issue beyond the DACs...
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this tutorial! I've been looking at other vids but they're usually unintelligibly spoken and poorly lit... Doesn't look like the easiest job ever, but I do like my HTC10 to work for a few years longer. Cheers 😉🙏
Quick follow-up: I failed. The HTC is no more, and I'm on a Motorola since a few months... I'll be very happy once EU finally passes the law that makes electronic consumer goods more repair / maintenance friendly!!!
Just got done with mine. Your video was spot on ! I had to do one more time but it worked ! Too nervous about burning the board and didn't hold it on long enough. Thank you!
CVP210 seems to have the same DAC's installed. Power to them is fine +5, -5V. Think I will order 2 new ones. Will get back here to tell if it worked or not... Thank you for the very clear video. I think many people will benefit from it.
Gonna do this tomorrow, not much issues but the left display fails to turn on too frequently. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery prior to removing the cluster? I don't really want to mess with the hot air here because the caps, guess for this rework I'll just stick to the soldering iron instead. Also no idea if the blue thingie is necessary. Probably worth replacing with something, probably not (as from what I've seen with some other devices, the actual reason of solder joints' failures is the coating filling the cavities should any of those form, and then cause microcracks due to the thermal expansion - yet of course this should never happen with the proper soldering so coating the reworked joints is safe, the question is if it is necessary).