Just got done with mine. Your video was spot on ! I had to do one more time but it worked ! Too nervous about burning the board and didn't hold it on long enough. Thank you!
Big thanks for this detailed and explanatory video, fixed my cluster today based on your advice and everything works again! Only got an issue with my radio volume not going down completely and loss of sound quality when i turn the volume up...got any pointers to fix that maybe?
Gonna do this tomorrow, not much issues but the left display fails to turn on too frequently. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery prior to removing the cluster? I don't really want to mess with the hot air here because the caps, guess for this rework I'll just stick to the soldering iron instead. Also no idea if the blue thingie is necessary. Probably worth replacing with something, probably not (as from what I've seen with some other devices, the actual reason of solder joints' failures is the coating filling the cavities should any of those form, and then cause microcracks due to the thermal expansion - yet of course this should never happen with the proper soldering so coating the reworked joints is safe, the question is if it is necessary).
Thank you very very very much, with your tutorial i have repaired my volvo s60 2003. I had the message srs airabag urgent with code dim0006 and srs 00D4. After i just erased fault with icarsoft on odb2. In first erase dim fault then srs fault.
Hello, I followed your tutorial because I had the screen on the left that does not turn on and before that I also had the message "srs airbag ..". Now I have nothing that works at all except the engine light and the belt light. Nothing else. Do you have any idea where the problem is coming from?
Does anyone know the excat types of the resistor arrays RA3 (103) and RA4 (201)? I would highly appreciate a link to ebay seller etc. I have one spare cluster that is missing these resistor arrays and I would like to attempt a repair if I get the parts.
Nice video and I have the same problem so I ordered the soldering station and all the other stuff. But I have a question; I saw that you covered the surrounding parts with aluminum foil. Didn't you worried that the heat gun will damage the processor itself? Shouldn't we put a peace of aluminum block on top of them, to keep them cool? or a piece of foil folded thick?
If you have a small tip on the heat gun and have the temperature quite high so that the solder melts quickly, it should be fine. I know that sounds silly, but having the temp too low and then keeping the heat on for a long time is much worse than having a high temp for a short time. The processors should be fine without an aluminium block as long as the fine tip is pointed at the legs. I put the foil so I didn't melt the plastic parts more than anything else. Also consider that, if you're in the UK, the whole instrument cluster replacement is now very cheap, and after 2004, they don't have this problem anymore. They are about £25 for a good one. Thanks.
@@blackstone4823 "cluster replacement is now very cheap" will I have to go to the friendly VOLVO dealer for programming the replacement? My cluster has the Part number 8637993 and my VOLVO S80/2002 is a BIFUEL one with CNG.
You could, with a microscope and a very fine tip. Alternatively, with some skill and practice, you can employ the "bubble drag" method with a 3-4mm chisel tip. I've had success doing 100 pin tqfp chips with a 0.5mm pitch with this method, but it is a finicky process.
Can you post a link for where you got the bulbs? Did you think about going with LED? My high beam bulb stopped working, the clock runs, and the whole cluster resets every few minutes with a beep while driving. Hopefully this will solve things.
Hi, I didn't think of going led, just replaced the bulbs. They have been fine for 15 years, so the replacements will see out the life of the car. I got them from a local parts supplier, so there's no link I'm afraid, they are pretty common though, and very cheap. Yes, following the video will probably solve things, mine had similar faults. I still have the car and it's still working well, just passed it's MOT today. Good luck.
@@blackstone4823 thanks for the answer!! I love my 02 v70, I keep putting money into it (suspension, clutch etc), but I've driven all over Europe with it without a hitch. Got 330,000km on the odo.
The solder station is a cheap one and the temperature on the display is not accurate. I found I needed to set it to 400C for it to work well. If you have a pro station it should be much lower. Thanks.
@@freddiewilloughby9951 Says in the video at about 09:30. I used Lucas but it will vary between bulb manufacturers. You can also get Led replacements that will last the life of the car. You can cross reference the bulbs from the numbers on the boxes. Thanks.
I think by 2008, all the lighting is led. The bulbs cannot be replaced like on the older models. If your dials have a silver ring around them they are led. If there is no silver ring, they still could be replaceable bulbs. I worked on a 2004 S60 which was already led. Thanks.
You should NEVER use a hot air solder on these boards, they get waaaayyyy too hot. Normal solder iron works best and wont melt the board and everything around where your working, as you can see by the tinfoil heat shields.
What do mean by convert? Do you mean install the later model that doesn't have these issues? I found out that there is a sweat spot year that has the old connector but the new design cluster with leds, and doesn't suffer the soldering issues of the old one. So if you find a 2004 S60 for example, I ignored all those important numbers on the back, plugged it in and it works perfectly. To identify the correct cluster, it must have the chrome circles around the dials, but still have the same connector on the back. A =2005 is the new connector, so on the S60 only the 2004 works.
Do NOT do anything when youre not a professional! Killed my cluster today because of these bs videos on youtube I tell you why: first of all you have to clean the processors/chips on the board. Mostly their connection at their feet is loose after the years. IMPORTANT is: if you do not do the job well and connect one foot with the other beside it, you kill it. There are millimeters between them, so i advise you strictly NOT to try to fix the cluster if you dont have many many years of experience!!!
I'm pleased you think my video is bs! How rude! I'm not a professional and my cluster was fixed and is still working to this day. Of course your not supposed to solder the pins together, and it won't work if you do. I hope I've helped many other people. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you.
Bobby Bobber probably blames his mother because he can't get girls. This works if you FOLLOW instructions and employ patience. I used a cheap heat gun and didn't stay in one place too long. You just have to make sure everything is clean... then apply the flux- then heat. This is a very good video. Be mindful however... this is NOT a permanent fix- it can last 2 years or 2 months; you may end up doing this again depending on how ling you keep the car. I have 328,000 on my 2003- I've done the process twice.... about 100,000 miles apart.
