Thank you so much for this video. It was the actual cutting of the scarf joint with a Skil saw that was tripping me up. Now that I’ve seen you do it, it is so obvious! Hahaha!
3:35 "square of these edges [...] You can see what I'm doing" No, we _can't_ see what you're doing. At which point do we need to square off? Does it not matter?
Never start a saw while it’s in the work. You did a plunge cut then stopped the saw, then started it back up without taking it out of the work. Big no no.
Nice to see things done the way they are meant to be done. Great work. Also how do you find the vivos on the job site? I wear vivos all the time except at work as I’m scared they just won’t last etc
If You Tubers are filming these types of technics they should use a narrow point Sharpie as we can't see the lines they draw. It is now like drawing an a chalk border in school with your finger.
It is difficult to see the lines because I’m using a 6h pencil. Also I don’t have a camera many to help get the close up shots I need. However you can see the end result. 😉
Hi need help. Is OSB wood or structural Plywood better suited for a summer house roof (7m x 4m)? I see everyone is using OSB, but my handy man recommends structural plywood but it is about £150 - £200 more. I'll also be covering the roof with EPDM rubber membrane (classic bond).
100% OSB but either use the T&G version or the 3grade OSB. Don’t use plywood it will delaminate over time. If you want to message me directly. Head over to my website and we can speak directly. 👍🏻
On this roof, the roof plate was fitted at the top of finished brick/block work height. Typically on any roof, the roof plate goes wherever the roof structure starts. Hope this helps. If not then I will do a short illustration of the roof structure.
You can see the way it has been constructed you sir take a lot of pride in your job. it would hold a tank full of water forever Thanks for showing us How it should be done.
I've had a Hilti TE5 drill since 1991 and it's as good today as It was when I bought it. They offered me teh vacuum attachment bach then which worked off a secondry drive at the base of the drill. I didn't buy it as they wanted stupid money for it. However you can't say the brand new hilti Impact driver is any better than your "Old Makita" because it's not a like for like comparison. Not a dig at you mate but there are far too many You tubers clearly promoting tool brands and given incentives by the tool companies. As a time served qualified C&J of some 35+yrs I rarely watch woodworking channels because the vast majority are just marketing w@nk. US Channels must give a disclaimer saying if they are in any way being supported by the product manufacturers which I think we should adopt in Europe. As I said , not aimed at this channel but a general observation.
If you want to know what are the most durable tools, go to any rental shop. You will mainly see Hitli, with some Milwaukee. The rental store want to squeeze every penny out of the tools. That tells you what to need to know. Do Hilti tools have to best on paper specs, not all the time. As a commercial electrician I dont care if the tool is 2 seconds slower. My first priority is it working all the time. Dropping it off a ladder, using it as a hammer, tossing it around, etc. It still better work.
This is literally why I switched from Milwaukee to Hilti. Hilti generally is slower than Milwaukee but it’s the turtle that wins the race and id rather have reliable slow tools than fast not So reliable
At 4:00 how do you determine what is the distance of the edge of the line to the start point diagonal line. Is equal, maybe, to the thickness of the board? Thanks a lot. I got the answer at 5:28. Τhe mark at the point of intersection of the beginning of the diagonal line and the inner mark.
Generally it’s 5-10mm at the bottom of the door. The frame fixings on the hinge side, I have hidden behind the hinges and lock the side, behind the lock plate and the others got filled. However if the customer requests it I will put a timber pellet to hide the fixings.
Please edit your videos to speed up the process. Also your wearing ear protection but not eye protection. You can still build minus hearing but really hard minus eyesight.
Hilti isn’t any better than any other top tier tool brand like festool or bosch etc. The only thing they do better is their fleet service and lease models. We use it in our contracting company and the tools are very frequently broken and have to be shipped back. Also their vacuum cleaners are total shit.
Festool doesn't build the type of tools that Hilti does. Bosch hammer drills don't compare to Hilti's. Just a fact. While Bosch's hammer drills are top notch, Hilti easily overtakes Bosch. You expose yourself.
It’s more about the comparison of new technology rather than new vs new and what our industry has to offer these days. Also I did a comparison between my brand new Festool quadrive and the new Hilti combination drill. So all in all I’d say that it wasn’t a bad comparison. 😉
@@claytoncarpentry618 I agree with everything U saying but the comparison it was like "Fiat Punto with mercedes" First of all the price from the tools and the quality is not the same.. festool and Hilti both r expensive I understand that. But placing an old f*cking Makita with nuron system.... Come on men . It's not even the voltage the same... Next time take a Lidl Parkside drill versus nuron.. I wish U a good night
@@xys-the whole point of a brand like Hilti is to show that it's more refined and nicer to use that will also last a lifetime. It's not about performance, if you want performance buy m18.
Never really used any hilti, i know they are good! Im a big festool fan, just got thier multi tool, its night and day compared to my dewalt one, ive pretty much replaced all my dewalt with festool now excluding circular saws for roofing etc, but everything else is festool and i love it!
I’ve used their Circular saws years ago and loved them. I’ve also got a few festool tools, their domino machines and sanders are in my opinion second to none! but obviously comes at a price. I was incredibly lucky to be able to get to test these tools and I was blown away by their multi tool! I barley felt the vibration compared with my Fein! 👍🏻
In the UK alone, more then 70% of flat roofs fail after just 10 years. They all have problems. I wonder why??? Most likely wrong installation and wrong materials.
@@prakunda yes I agree with you that it is due to poor installs. Majority of the time they fail because people use the incorrect vapour barrier gauge rather than the correct. Also people don’t draw a layout of where the substrate structure is ( ie fixing points ) then they penetrate the vapour barrier and wonder why it fails. Ive used 120mm celotex because the Part L regs didn’t need to be applied here because the planning permission was granted before they came into force where we have to use 150mm. I’ve gone above and beyond to make sure that there’s no thermal transfer between the warm roof and internally. Hope this helps.
The first half the sound is very very low and the second half the sound is just hear about I'd you turn the sound up ,other videos am watching are fine
Definitely interesting. It makes more sense to me for this joint to be used in timber framing or when ordering longer material is not possible or feasible. Here in the states, we would order engineered lumber in the length we need, so that the member can be one length. Also, when hand framing rafters with a ridge board, the ridge is actually structural, IF there are no collar ties to keep the walls at the eaves from spreading.
Thank you for your comment. You are right a scarf joint is not a structural joint so for example if I was framing out floor and the joists were too short, I would have to either use a steel to break up the overall span of the floor or use a glulam beam ie engineered beams. In this case the rafters are picking up the ridge and I also used collar ties and wind bracing to stop any movement.
The concrete step should have been removed and replaced with a course of bricks. The door would sit much lower and not create an even higher step than before. Serious trip hazard.