Then the wife isn’t as cool as mine! 😂. There’s a surprising amount of exhaust options out there on the market, from wild to quiet and definitely something for everyone. This was perfect for us and the wife loves it!
So you basically spent like $5K just to run 15" rear wheels. Moron. EDIT: And you STILL had to grind on everything. Including the several thousand dollar hubs. lol
I'm trying to figure out on mine if i can fit a 345-40r17 almost flush or with no more then 3/8s poke and I've seen a few guys run 315-35r19 on +50 offset have a flush fit so i did some math and in theory the 345-40r17 on a 56+ offset with that Viking bracket to turn the shock inborn to give more room should fit & give incredible traction. with around 1/4 inch poke. what are yawls Thoughts?
if the 345 isn't possible ill run what you got in this vid, i found a rear subframe its a tubular and puts the brakes inwards so by the differential which eliminates that problem@@CORNYOTE
Clutch was found on eBay, no idea what brand or model, just found something with the right shaft diameter that would hold. The transaxle is a Spicer H12 FNR. I found it on eBay as well used. New they’re pretty pricey.
That was actually a massive pain in the butt. I could not find a switch that latched that was the same size as the hurst. I have no idea why they used such an odd size. 12mm is pretty standard. I drilled out the hole in the side panel just slightly and retapped the threads for 12mm. The button is too long, so you have to leave the nut on it as you can see in the video. I also had to ditch the connectors on the wire and just soldier the wire ends directly and shrink wrap them to save space as that panel is very tight. I wish I would’ve made a tutorial on that now as several people have asked how I made it work.
Do you have all the info on the brakes you went with? I am using the same wheels and like how you set them back with less spacer. I’m using 3/4 spacer now.
Unfortunately none of it is a simple bolt on. Some of the parts will have to be modified. 2ea Wilwood Rotor 160-5841 (need to be safety wired to hat and must have the outer diameter machined down 1/16” on either a lathe or brake rotor machine) 2ea Wilwood Hat 170-7632 (must be drilled or machined for 14mm studs) 2ea Wilwood Caliper 120-9693-RD (RD signifies red caliper color) 1ea Wilwood Pads 150-9418K Brake line 220-13913 NB-AERO Polycarbon Hubcentric Center Ring 71.5mm to 76MM 3mm spacer 5x4.5 76MM bore (Caliper bolts will have to be sourced locally)
You running the stock manifold or a 2nd Gen setup? Mine lights pretty fast, but I have a BD Race manifold. If you give it more rpm before shifts though it’ll keep spool easier.
Hi, Do you have the link to where you got the hubs, the rack & pinion, diffs, and the FNR trans axle? I am trying to build a drivable picnic table... Thank you
The front spindles and hubs I had laying around they’re off an LTZ400 atv. The rack and pinion and transaxle I found on eBay. The adapters for the transaxle were off Amazon and we’re just to adapt whatever you use for a transaxle to the 110mm bolt pattern for the specific atv wheels.
@@WilliamBartlett-mi8rs the transaxle is a Dana H12 FNR. I think maybe they came in some gas powered golf carts or maybe farm UTV’s. Colleges sometimes use them for their buggy programs. I just searched Dana H12 on eBay and found one. Might have just been lucky.
If you’re starting from a dead stop at lower rpm’s it can be pretty bad stomping on it. If you shift at 3-3.5k it’s a glaze maybe. Short shifting will produce more until the turbo gets spooled fully.
@@CORNYOTE who wrote you "calibrations" if you don't mind me asking. I have the same set up with Exergry 60% overs 10mmCP3 and a FIS464/83/.90 Billet wheel and my turbo does not light until about 2500 RPMs. I see yours comes up much sooner on stock fuel. I have checked everything, everything and thats all shes got. 2010 G56.
@@CORNYOTE Totally,if you ever change your mind you can name your price for a small project. Essentially I want to make a go kart attached below a portable toilet for a youtube video. I appreciate your response and have a good day!
Cool project kind of loud though...maybe not necessary to go that Fast...I'm kind of the same breed as you I'v built a few motorized things too...A mini school bus, a motorized couch, a scooter, motorized radio flyer wagon, a kids airplane and oh ya a go kart...people give me small engines that don't run i get them cleaned up and running then I have to build something for them! still got 2 motors left...Can I Copy your picnic table maybe???
Hello.. I know video is a little old, but do you remember the specs or part numbers for the rear brakes? I’m assuming the Baer brakes won’t work? Since there will be modifications needed to the hats, I know you said these are not an off the shelf fit for mustang. Thanks for any info you can provide
These are the parts you’ll need. 2ea Rotor 160-5841 2ea Hat 170-7632 (will have to be drilled for 14mm studs) 2ea Caliper 120-9693-RD (-rd is red) 1ea Pads 150-9418K Brake line 220-13913 NB-AERO Polycarbon Hubcentric Center Ring 71.5mm to 76MM 3mm spacer 5x4.5 76MM bore
Did the McLeod clutches last with the 3.25” pulley? I’m trying to pulley down from the 3.875” but not sure how hard I should push it. Also is it on pump ethanol or C85/ Ethanol One R?
They’ll last for awhile. Once you get up to that much power you have expect to replace them yearly if not more depending on how aggressive you get. The additional clutch packs will help with that to some extend though. I only run pump E85
@@CORNYOTE Once a year is not too bad. And good to know you can run that much boost with pump E85. Best I’ve seen here in Miami is E80-83 but that’s close enough I guess. To get that 8sec pass you’re gonna need to max out the 6 rib with a 2.75” griptec.
Man i just did an industrial injection kit with their 464 with efi single 80 horse tune, i get a spike in frp from say 7k to 14k and a dead spot in throttle(mechanic and industrial injection said it was normal turbo lag for a stock fuel truck) for a split second when my foot touches the skinny pedal. Doesnt matter if im driving and let my foot off the gas and back on or am shifting gears. Makes it near impossible to shift it without speed shifting it to make it drive normal. This doesn't look the case with yours which tells me i have a problem somewhere. Valair Dual disk clutch. Never did this before 2nd gen swap and new tunes.
I definitely don’t feel like I have a dead spot anywhere. There’s slight lag, but it’s not a dead spot, just a spot of slightly slower acceleration in low rpm’s. Try shifting at a higher rpm and see if it still has that same issue. I’m on a southbend dual disk.
@@beaustephenson4888 figured out the problem the day after i posted this reply. My mechanic didnt tighten a hose clamp on the intake. Was sucking air that wasnt accounted for via maf sensor. Tightened it down and all good now.
Quick question. I have an 09 with 2nd gen swap s463 and have been drooling over swapping the 68rfe for the G56 for a very long time. I’ve just heard all the stories of the case flexing and shearing the gears. How has your experience with it been for the last 3 or 4 years? If you still own the truck of course.
I think the people flexing the cases and shearing parts are pushing over 1000hp. Mine has been absolutely solid. Not one single issue. I’m even still on the Southbend clutch I did years ago. Everything probably has 110k-120k on it all and I tow a 28ft enclosed with a car in it fairly often.
It's amazing how pricy these quality trailers are, I'm looking at the ATC Quest loaded with all the goodies. To bad I have to give them my next born for the cost of this thing! Even a good used one is hard to find right now, demand is thru the roof.
Agreed. Covid really seems to have slowed down manufacturing and has really made demand skyrocket. It’s hard to find anything used without paying almost new prices. I feel like I really got lucky with right place right time when I saw this one for sale. I love it though! It’s somewhat comforting that when you buy a top of the line trailer though, resale value will always be much higher and you’ll really never lose out much.
Awesome trailer ! I’m looking for a trailer I got some questions for you. Have you been driving in the rain yet ? Does water get in the escape door or wheel well??? Does your Mustang splitter drag going in ? Do you think the escape door might get in the way in the pits or at car show events when parking gets tight?? Was looking at trailers with the escape doors is a double door swing open ,don’t need a lot of room to open them. I will take all feedback you can give me . These trailers aren’t cheap want to buy only once with no regrets . Thanks man
I have not driven in pouring rain, just light sprinkles but it’s sat in pouring rain. I haven’t seen any moisture get in at all. The design has a lip, so I would think any water that could somehow get past the seal, would run down the lip to the bottom of the trailer. And the same goes for the removeable fender, I don’t think there’s any way water would be able to get in. The escape hatch does stick out a little. Maybe 5ft when opened. I was at the track yesterday and had plenty of room in designated spots to open it up and have the car next to it. Not sure how other tracks are for parking, but all the ones I’ve been to it wouldn’t be an issue. The first real shakedown of the trailer was yesterday at a track rental and it was everything I could’ve dreamed of with a trailer. It was absolutely perfect and I can tell it’s going to be one of my best purchases I’ve made. You’re right, they’re not cheap, just keep doing your research and find exactly what you want.
