Thank you so much for this video. The information on Tascam web instructions is not clear.... they never showed where to put that file, and also never mentioned that need to be UNZIPPED. So THANK YOU! So after downloading, unzip the file and copy the file to the UTILITY FOLDER... which they never mention. Thanks again! >
Were the bolts pulling through the metal? Without seeing your set up, I'm not sure how to help. You might try contacting the seller (good luck if you bought it from Amazon). What brand/model is it? Maybe I can see if I can look at a similar model to see if there's something obvious. One question though: Is yours attached to something like a deck or are you using the weights to hold down?
I found my notes from the build. I can scan my squirrely notes and send you a pdf of what I have. But I'll need some sort of email or something? Not sure of the best way to do that.
I was trying to figure out a way to email you a photo. But I can't seem to figure it out. I tried to just post it in the comments, but that doesn't work either 😞 But the short answer to how I attached the speaker is: 1) the front of the case is actually 3/4" pine/ply, 2) I routed down about 3/8" so I could flush mount the speaker from the front, 3) the speaker grill then slips into the routed opening over the front mounted speaker. Let me know if there's a better way to send you the picture. Thanks!
Great video man, for example I have the mic plugged into channel 1 recorded unto that channel, but now I want to rec another vocal track on channel 2, how do you assign to channel 2, I couldn't figure that out , I had to plug out the mic out of 1 to 2 to get the signal, on my tascam dp-008ex I could jus assign where I want to record to any channel, Can you Help, thanks man
On these, you need to physically change inputs to change channels. I had Korg system years ago that you could reassign channels to different inputs. But not on this one. I personally like doing the physical plug change because I don't get any surprises on which channel I'm on! But that's just my personal preference.
It might be dirty electrical contacts. I would try compressed air first to blow out any dust/etc. If that doesn't work, you might be need to try some kind of electrical contact cleaner spray - if you have some available. And always remember to check/replace the batteries!!!
If you just need the operating system, I believe it might already be in the firmware. I sold my machine several years ago so I can't verify that. Otherwise, I could give you a better answer - Sorry!
Omg you have no idea the year long headache I've had trying to figure this out. I had no idea I had to change this setting. I was a week away from returning it and getting a new mixer. Thank you so much friend
Windows makes everything so much fun 😞 I still have a cheat sheet next to my rig to remind me what I need to do each time! Glad it worked out for you before you returned it!
Cool demonstration. Now I understand why these are used. So my friend gifted me a ginormous 24-input mixer that has lots of aux sends for outboard Fx, etc; I haven't messed with outboard gear at this point; I'm pretty much in the box, but I've been looking at some things. This seems like a great solution for people that have lots of outboard gear and want to do different combinations I like that you can bypass certain things and how flexible and small it is. I may not have a use for it now, but I see it becoming useful down the line. Great video, keep it up!
Its good to have friends like that!!! I'm glad the video helped. It took me a while to wrap my head around the concept. But after I got into it, it made a lot of sense. Good luck on your new adventure! 🙂
Great concept but unfortunately didn't work for me. Snapped through two different lengths of 1/2" threaded rod without budging the concrete plug. I suspect the post I'm trying to pull had been removed once before and replaced because the plug of concrete seems to be approaching 12" - 14" in diameter at the surface. Will have to break out the jackhammer for this one. FOLLOW-UP After having used a jackhammer to beak the muffin top of concrete, reducing the height of the column of concrete to about 18" (and 8" in diameter), I then tried again and the post pulled from the concrete plug. The soil where I live is a loamy clay. Having ran the specs of the hole, the concrete and the soil through AI, it calculated that the pulling force to extract an 18" x 8" concrete plug from my soil would be between 5,000 and 7,000 pounds, an amount of force that the 1/2" bolt passing loosely through the 2x4's and the thin steel of the farm jack couldn't possibly take. I have no doubt that this puller works great in some environments (eg soil types) and situations, but I think for extracting 4x4 posts set 18" - 24" deep in concrete in loamy clay soil, it will be a no-go every time. It was a worthwhile experiment though, one that I had high hopes for.
I have mine bolted the wood deck joist. So it stays pretty secure. I'm not sure how to handle using weights. It seems that the weights should usually work fine. But that does seem to be the weak link in these. Some of the restaurant patio seating I've seen uses these and theirs are actually bolted into the concrete. A good rule of thumb on using weights might be if things start to get VERY windy and you notice the base or support pole/beam moving ever so slightly, then that would be the time to fold it back into the closed position.
I think the swaying is definitely the most concerning thing about these. But there's really not much you can do - if they built them not to sway, then they would collapse to easily, or cost way too much. I'd say 98% of the time, the sway isn't a concern.
When you're talking about lowering it to block the sun from on side, what about if the sun is on the other side. Can you remove the stopper and raise it higher to lit the other way?
You sure can. One thing to consider is that the one from the other clock might not have much life left in it either. But as long as it fits, there's nothing wrong with doing that.
Thank you for this. We have finally settled on a cantilevered umbrella as the shade for our new patio. Our setup with when and where the sun is until 3-ish is identical to yours and this video has confirmed that I am on the right track with this instead of a pergola or pavilion. We are star gazers and we had not thought about the obstruction factor of the other options. New sub.
As far as pulling out fence posts? No, not specifically. But these are rated at a high capacity (5,000 lbs!) for dealing with farm equipment, etc. So pulling out a fence post is really an easy task for the jack on something like this.
Mine made it through a major hail storm last week with high winds, 4" of rain in about 30 minutes, tangerine size hail, etc. Every house in the area needs a new roof, 100's of broken car windshields, 100's of houses will need new siding, repairs to broken windows, etc. But my umbrella was folded up as I normally would do and it didn't get a scratch. If I still had a gazebo, it would be on the insurance claim now.
I probably should have done a better job of showing how the crank handle works! I bet other people have had the same issue. If you don't see it happen, you don't know it's there. My bad 😞 The short answer is "crank the handle", and my follow-up is "but I won't show you" 🙂 Thanks for the comment!
Don"t bother with these. The slightest bit of wind and they strain alarmingly. You end up having to take it down which defeats the point of having one.
They do sway in a slight wind and they sway even more with a moderate wind. But we haven't had any issues with them collapsing or anything. They work great and are easy to put up/take down, don't take up much room and you don't have either a pole in the middle or a permanent structure covering your deck. If it's a nice day and the wind isn't crazy, then they make total sense. If you're afraid of them swaying, then yes, don't buy one. That's what cantilever umbrellas do. The Sundowner type shades are similar in that respect - they can sway as well.
Totally useless with any type of wind though. Even during your video see edit when umbrella starts moving around. A good quality gazebo is still the best option when possible. Any type of wind these umbrellas are absolutely useless. We have one and even a bit of wind - why you see so many for sale on Market-Place. Think we used ours three times last summer and each time had to tie it down.
Each have their pros and cons. The umbrella movement is only a problem on a very windy day. They move and that's just part of the deal. I really liked our gazebo, but it's always there - day and night. If you want to do some star gazing with a telescope, the gazebo hampers where you can put your telescope. Our gazebo ultimately collapsed in a storm - frame and all. I think storms are a concern no matter what you're using. Question though - when you say "tie it down", was/is yours bolted down or are you using the water/sand filled weight things? That would be good for people to know if they don't have the option of bolting it down. This video doesn't address the difference. Thanks for your comment - it helps add more context to these things! 🙂
A good quality gazebo cannot be closed during strong wind. Hence using an umbrella that can be. Tree branches landing on your gazebo (soft or hardtop) can and likely will destroy it. Your chances are better putting an umbrella up in the morning and down in the evening and during storms.
Do you still have this synth? are you willing to do another teardown to show us more details about the octave switch? You could answer a lot of questions.
Are the buttons not changing the octave? It MIGHT be dirty contacts. If so, I would spray contact cleaner in there first and see if that helps. Contact cleaner is the miracle cure on a lot of these control knob/switch issues.
@fishpotpete. It just takes more force to make it work, sometimes a few presses in a row. It's apparently a common problem even early on. There's like a dozen posts about it on forums and reddit as far back as 2015 but not one lists a fix. Some suggest a cleaning but none ever say if it worked. one reason I was interested in asking is because I wasn't sure if I could spray something like that in from the outside of the machine or if I'll have to open it up to clean it. . I did see one guy who cut off the mod wheels, octave switch and keyboard to add a big patch bay haha I just wanna change octaves predictably haha
@@changer1285 If it seems to be a multiple presses and maybe more force, then that makes me think it's a loose solder joint. I had that happen a few times few the years - once I had a solid state Crate amp that would sound perfect and the SUDDENY EXPLODE in volume. After changing underwear, I found the issue was a cracked solder joint on the amp transistors connection to the motherboard. Another example was a garage door opener (the motor part) that would start/stop/etc. - same thing, the solder connection was cracked and when the motor started, the connect would connect/disconnect. Simple reflow of the solder fixed both. I've had the same issue on multiple items (keyboards, small appliances, etc.) through the years that turned out to be a simple re-soldering fix. That's a relatively safe and easy repair to do. You still have to open the case/etc. But it's usually less than an hour job (or even 10 minutes depending). If that's not the problem, then you probably wont make it worse trying this.
@@fishpotpete while I've only ever done sloppy solder jobs on my guitar, that does seem like an easier fix than totally replacing the switch as I'm pretty sure it's right on the PCB.
