The crush washer being slightly larger than the head of the bolt is ok. If it's the wrong size (too large) washer, it might not sit flat if it hits the part of the oil pan where it curves up, which would be bad.
Look, I’ve changed my oil on my vehicles over the years (in places & times) you just wouldn’t want to be if you had a choice… . Some days you catch every drop of old oil (& new), and other days you don’t. Some days a diamond, some days a stone… 🤷♂️. It happens. We learn from our mistakes the best sometimes. Nice video, and thanks. Sure, I cringed a tad when the old oil started missing the oil catch pan, but I can relate, and we all move forward 😊 . I’ve got a 2022 Ridgeline, and though I’ve been taking it to the dealer so far, I’m considering doing the oil changes myself again. Might save a bit of dough. Today’s prices for oil changes aren’t getting any cheaper… 🤢. Good job & thanks 👍😎🇺🇸.
Appreciate the comment. The messiest part is when you wrap the oil filter in the plastic bag, and, of course, if you don't have a no spatter pad for your oil drip pan. Outside of the mess, which, when you've learned from your mistakes, is less the next oil change, it's an easy oil change. Sticking your head under the hood a minimum of once or twice a year is never a bad thing, even on a newer vehicle. Changing your oil gives you a good reason to give your truck a closer look.
I have hear good reviews about this product. It's recomended and not sponseored by few channels and specially by Mr. Scotty Kilmer. What do you think?. We do own a Nissan Sentra and a Kia Rio Ex GDI
I hope the recommendations of others keep coming without sponsorship: maybe that means the product will work. As I just used the product, I’ll check in in 6 months to a year from now to see if there is any noticeable difference. Initial indications are that the engine is purring along, and though subjective, feels like she’s a bit happier after using The 505 CRO.
I'm trying to eliminate a check engine light brought on by a vacuum leak code. I found a pretty good code diagram, and it shows one vacuum line entering/originating at the air filter box. On my '03 golf ALH tdi, I can't find the port for the line on the air box. Any suggestions? Where is it?
Thank you going to try this. Mine works when open but not when shut. (my spray is also leaking inside that's another days project) I can see my wired are cracked my boot sleeve has a hole. Going to try this repair
Best of luck. It's a tight space. When the hatch closes the bare wires are likely shorting out against either other wires, or the metal of the hatch. Good bonding experience with the Golf! Let us know how it goes.
I know some folks like to reuse the washers. If it works for you, great. The way I look at it is for a few pennies, not having to deal with a potential future drip is worth it for me every 12 months.
I've had AC problems for a year. Every time the car is stopped the AC would turn off... I couldn't find the fault, I almost changed the climatronic. Until I saw your video and one of the leaf fuses next to the one that burned on you was burned out. I change it and it works perfectly. Thank you so much!
Is the jack you are using a long-reach jack? I attempted to use my 3-ton low-profile Pittsburgh jack, but I couldn't reach the jacking point. I even stacked a 2 x 4, but the handle was touching the bumper, and I couldn't raise it.
You definitely have to get under there a bit. I'm using the Daytona DJ3000. Here's the link to the Harbor Freight site with specifications: www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-yellow-63183.html
I have the same 3-ton Daytona low profile jack you have and I had to sell it on FB because it was not long enough to jack from the jacking points. I tried to jack it from the pinch welds, but there are plastic trim pieces covering up the length of the pinch weld that wouldn’t allow me to have the jack in place and place a jack stand on the pinch weld. Gonna go buy the long reach 3-ton low profile jack tomorrow.
@@FamousSASkater how did the long reach work for you? The full barnwood 2x4 (actual 2x4, rough cut, not nominal) got the car up enough for me (stock suspension) to slide the jack under, though it was still tight under there and the first pumps of the jack were small ones.
Sometimes you use the tools provided. I just did the oil change this year and didn't have one drop spilled. I left this version of the video up so people could learn what not to. I did use a larger oil pan this last time as well. Hope you found a better video that suited your needs.
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There are different rules for different cars, and different crush washers for different cars. Some people will reuse the old crush washer, but it's worth a few pennies to me to make sure it's done correctly and it won't leak: no one likes to go back under the car only to find a drip that could have been prevented by a little crush washer.
Sounds like it's been overfilled. make sure you actually drained the engine oil and not the transmission fluid by accident (I've seen this done before at a commercial lube shop)
Thanks for the video! Just did it the other day and feels great. The old transmission fluid definitely looked ancient. Replaced the o ring for sure because the original one was dried out and felt brittle.
Dealership charges $65 for this service. All OEM parts, synthetic oil, gasket, filter and safety check. No fuss, no muss. That’s worth it w no spills and risk of life or limb.
Agree to disagree and to each their own. A little spilled oil and the knowledge that you changed the oil correctly far outweighs the 0 care factor you get at most dealerships and oil lube places for me. I know I care infinitely more than someone who is paid to get you in and out as quickly as possible.
Don't believe they did a 30 point safety check. You can do it just like the so-called Pros. They just eyeball for leaks. That's it! Please pay the cashier 109 dollars 😂
What I do when I need to torque down a strut bolt: grab some wisegrip and some old cloth and compress the strut just below the top mount so it won't spin while you tighten the bolt. And this way you can also use 17mm head
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The owner manual seems to highlight the area in front of the two silver bolts. So starting from the silver bolts and then head like an inch or two toward the front bumper, that’s where the manual highlights, unless I’m missing something.
