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@@wellingtonviking yes thanks. Got it down. The black plastic guards that sit under the engine bay were awkward. I broke all the bolts on the forward one so I could access the engine. The oil change went well be I'll now have to try to use cable ties or something to secure the guard back on...
@@julianneale6128 if you snapped off some of the clips, something like this would be able to replace them: amz.run/5raC also, if you ripped out the bolt holes in the plastic undercover, you can put larger washers on the bolts even the holes might now look like a horseshoe rather than a hole. if the bolts themselves broke, i'm assuming you live where they salt the road, and that's a bummer. you'd need a tap and die set to get the bolts out.
@@wellingtonviking yes it was all of the bolts sheared, even though I squirted WD40 on them. Hopefully I can sort it. The car has some surface corrosion but nothing serious. I'm going to wax oil it soon to lelp preserve it. At least the oil change went as it should. It'd done just over 6000 miles since it's the last change so it needed doing...
Nice video. I have heard people advising to actually lift the front of the MR2 spyder, to help properly drain it. So I would have thought lifting the rear would make it not drain fully. But I have yet to change the oil in a MR2 spyder, so I can't say. Just found that interesting. What's your opinion on the lifting the front thing?
The more oil you can get to drain the better. You will never get every drip out. If you can get a bit more by lifting up the front of the Spyder, great. If you change your oil regularly and get the bulk of the oil out and replaced, either way will work for you.
agreed, that little flap seems a superfluous design. easier to take everything off so you can take a peek at what's going on with your car at least yearly (if you don't drive much)