I have a lot more experience with it since making that video. The biggest thing is to keep the supports flexible so they are peeled off, not popped off. Only using ASA for the roof of the support works well and is faster due to less tool changes.
The short term plan was to build a simple shelf system to hold them. I cut some scrap wood to width, then got distracted by other projects. Long term I'd like to find an affordable way to make slide out drawers for them. Having to stack and unstack them is getting old.
Hello! This is so helpful. I plan to print the squared ones soon. Did you ever find a solution for storing the 3700 boxes? I'd be interested in that, as well. Thanks!
How about using the guts from a small say, 400-500W office space heater. Same dangers to be aware of? Would it be better to use a PTC heater like in this video?
What slicer are you using and can I please see your slicer gcodes for start/stop and filament change? Printer.cfg would be nice to compare to also but mine a Cartesian so idk how relevant
For mirror and copy modes x/y offsets don't matter. I was lucky that my z offset is small enough to not matter for these modes. For dual material prints I apply a gcode offset as part of the tool change macro (T1/T0). T0 macro applies offsets of zero (to clear gcode offsets) and T1 applies offsets of zero (to clear offsets so they don't stack up if T1 macro is run multiple times), then applies the actual offsets which I am still getting from test prints. Hopefully we'll get to the point of automatic offset calibration before every print, but there is still a long way to get there. The software side of that is beyond my sklillset. Hopefully I can get back into testing other people's solutions soon.
I chose a 100V product to save on the regulated power supply, but I didn't realize that the heat exchanger was a bare 100V. I'm lucky to have heard this warning before I started. thank you
The way to "enter" with idex is to split the model down the middle and lay each face on the build plate, in mirror mode. That way each toolhead prints half the benchy, and you cut your # of layers (and thus # of perimiters) in about half.
No. I just try to seal the printer to keep the bad air inside. Unfortunately the 2.4 cannot be sealed as well as the Trident because of the Z belt passthroughs. I am too cheap to spend money on special charcoal every month.
@@badmouth75 Thanks! Seems a good idea! Me too, maybe it's an interesting option to make a sealed hole in the upper section of a box, install fan to electricity and the hole from inside, and connect a hood to your box through a sealed fan and in window?
It should be possible to write software for collision avoidance of the heads. If the heads can share space on the x-rail, but not at the same time, the effective print volume of each head would be increased. You could print two parts at the same time, overlapping in Y.
Rather than using round cable, you could use flat with a twist. This could be a flexible PCB or flat data ribbon cable attached to a flexible metal carrier strip. Less mass, less cost, less metal fatigue, less stiffness, more flexibility,
Have you seen what Flashforge do to prevent ooze? They have an adjustable spring stainless steel plate that the nozzle docks onto, that plate stops materials going anywhere. It doesn't adjust the temp.
Yeah. Someone on the Tridex Discord did that using feeler blades which is pretty clever. The official Tridex design has silicone pads on a wiper arm the nozzle sits on. I was trying to get it dialed in as good as possible before adding those. I also want to do a stock Trident 350 conversion where there won't be room for wipers. I am slicing with Cura which times the heating of the nozzles ahead of time, so the tool changes aren't costing as much time as with other slicers. Unfortunately no paint on colors though.
@badmouth75 that's pretty cool. I have 2 IDEX creator pro's with the spring steel, works great. The extruders don't ramp up and down unless there is a number of layers until the head is next used. I've only just come across the Voron printers and I immediately want to build one 😁
hi how do you control you heated chamber with klipper mainsail? i was thinking to pick a termperature controller but i think these way is more convenient also you should add your heater at the bottom of the enclosure cause heat stacks on the top of your enclosure maybe just inverte the fan to pick air from the top
I used "multi-pin" in Klipper to assign both fan pins as the primary part cooling fan. The slicer just sends the normal fan commands and both fans respond. I experimented with assigning them fan numbers in Cura and controlling them separately via a macro, but copy and mirror modes required workarounds since Cura doesn't turn on the second fan in those cases. It's easier just to link them. EDIT: Also a few things (unrelated to the fans) were changed when copy and mirror modes were recently added to klipper, so there may be a line or two in this video that are now outdated.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I wonder, if you open the door to fix a troubled print, will the sudden heat change cause klipper to shutdown? Is it possible to just have klipper turn off the heater if there's a problem?
Opening for a short time usually does not change the temperature fast enough for Klipper to detect a problem. Klipper will shut down, but will keep the fans running if the fins of the heater get too hot. I haven't been using the heater since insulating with 3/4" polyiso, but it is summer time. In winter I will probably need the heater again.
There are cheap food dehydrators at 500W and the neat thing is they have temp regulation up to 70 degrees built in. Just modify one of those by running a flexible tube from the dehydrator to the printer and back to get recirculation.
My V2.4 is 350 x 400 tall. I use a 60mm 220V 150W PTC and it heats the chamber fast to 55C. I first had a 400W and it was way too much power. I had to run it at like 20% power. I clipped one of its inputs so only half of the PTC was powered and that helped but really the 150W or even lower is what you want. PTC's don't respond great to being contolled by an SSR. Spend the extra 10 bucks and get the insulated versions. They come with 220V fans but I swapped it for a 24V so I could have the PTC and fan run seperately. The PTC powers down first, then the fan. I use modified bed fans macros to run the ptc. It only runs when the bed heater is set to 90C+ and turns off when the bed temp drops. It works really well. I can't believe people wait hours for their printer to warm up. Lastly, Make sure you have polycarbonate panels, not acrylic as they will warp like crazy. My poly panels don't warp at all.
@LBF-xSunnyCrazyx I have the temp sensor mounted on the rear extrusion of the gentry in the cable chain guide. The temperature will vary a bit depending on how high the sensor is but I figure it's most important at the height of the print.
Just add a Chinese thermostat to control that PTC heater. It works for me and my Prusas, you don't need a PID controller. Also, I think your bed has very poor adhesion. With a texture sheet on my Prusas, I don't even use a skirt or glue stick, so unless you have a better textured sheet, you can use a smooth PEI sheet with glue. Also, it would be better if you remove all the aluminum and polycarbonate sheets and place your naked Voron inside a wooden enclosure with a small front window. Of course, in that case, you would have to insulate the bottom electronics.
They probably know better than me, but I'm not a fan of the frame being exposed to both the inside and outside of the chamber. It's basically a big aluminum heatsink. I've replaced the sides and top with a 3/4 polyiso box and it gets up to the 50's without the heater now (ambient temp in the basement has also gone up though). I will most likely switch over to fans under the bed and move the heater over to a different project. Most of what I do is just playing around to see if different ideas will work.
@@badmouth75 What about one of those infrared heater lamps that you have on your balcony to keep warm? It's sort of a directional heat so your front is warm while your back is freezing cold. I imagine it could heat up the print without heating the rest as much. Not sure though.
I wonder how much the blowing heater fan affects the warping just because it's creating a draft... Have you tried lowering the fan speed or even turning it off? Although then I assume you'd have issues with heat consistentcy throughout the chamber..? Heading down a similar rabbit hole trying to make a high temp enclosure, I'd love to hear your thoughts! Good luck 💪
This is a very interesting video with lots of points covered. Thanks for the in depth chamber explanation as I would like to add somthing like that to my Voron and you have given me much to consider. Many thanks for sharing. Regards Karl
@badmouth75 I Iiked your design and idea. I would like to try spliting the heater in two of 250W in each side of the printer. That should be enough to not overheating or create hotspots. I also liked your design of the air splitter behind the heater. If you don't mind share the cad file, I would modify for 250w heater and try in my V2 350. Thanks!
Will HIPS peel away from ABS with a 0 support interface gap? How dense can you make the support interface would it be worth it to increase the density over what standard supports use?
I am working on getting my JG Maker Artist D Pro working on IDEX with a BTT Manta M8P motherboard with a CB1. I have the printer working with the left or primary side. I am trying to get the right printer to print with the left. I get errors when I try.
For your power issues of short power cutouts, consider computer UPS power supplies they will give you at least a few minutes of full power usage even when the power goes out and will help with dirty power that you probably have that can cause other issues with electronics.
Not sure what you mean by "how it hold on?" The part where the gantry attaches to the linear rail guides is notched to match the teeth of the belt. When it is tightened to the linear rail guide, it clamps the belt in place. I want to try other methods to limit the ooze before using a wiper. The wiper is a last resort. I had planned to modify the z-hop behavior during the tool change and then setting the slicer to print infill first (hopefully wiping the ooze to the infill), but am getting sidetracked by some home repairs. It will be a couple months before I have any time to tinker with 3D printers again.
