Various videos that show my enthusiasm for video games. From the history, retro-gaming, to modern. You will find crazy stuff like modifications that I've performed, work in progress videos of games others are programming that I've been playing around with to who knows! Enjoy and thanks for visiting my channel!
Just a question but would you ever consider doing like Nintendo Ds’s I have 2 that need some some work done but I wouldn’t even know where to begin😅 love the content.
So maybe I'm old-age hallucinating here, but I seem to remember a couple games using that soft reset too... Ha! You mentioned it at 4:13 -- At least I'm not alone in recalling that. Will do as much 5200 test recording as I can manage!
Correct, the model 1 version of the console that I believe most are familiar with, had both a pause and dedicated reset button on it. The Reset on the model 1, is the soft reset function that I'm showing towards the end of the video. And yes, my understanding is that a few games used that soft reset function to activate debug or cheat modes within them. So when it was removed on the model 2 as part of the cost reduction and slimming of the console, that functionality was lost. I understand it, from Sega's point of view, as you have to interact with the console anyway, there isn't much difference in just powering the console off/on to cycle it vs pressing a button. And not including the button or designing the mold to allow for one, saved them some money in the larger scale of things.
The yellow capacitor at the connector (bridges both positive and negative wires) - does it have to be positioned a certain way? There's no band on it to indicate negative.
Interesting and very educational video. I only came across it today. I have a question…. I have an AV-modded Colecovision, and I’ve tried both the op-amp and the transistor style of AV mods on this one, but I still get faint rolling diagonal lines on the screen. It’s most obvious with blue backgrounds (think of the skill select screen). Any idea what the cause could be? I’ve tried different power supplies and cables but no improvement. Perhaps it is one of the caps in the video circuit?
There is a 7800 adapter now for the BackBit Pro, but at the time of this video being made that adapter didn't exist yet so I was only able to show the Intellivision and 5200 adapters. I now own adapters for the Colecovision, Ti-99, Vic-20, and Atari 8-bit computers, and Sega Master System. Still a wonderful all arounder flash cart.
@@rustymixer2886 Yes you do put the ROMs for each system into their own folder and can create additional subfolders into those for further cataloging. As an example I an Intellivision folder that has most of those systems games or programs I want in one folder. And in a 7800 folder I have additional folders for homebrews, original releases, or work in progress stuff. The 7800 adapter along with about 30 other different ones now can be ordered from Evie's store at BackBit.io
@@IvoryTowerCollections does yours have save states ? I just ordered one with free 7800 adapter and extra $10 master system adapter for $129 what a deal, I can play 2600 games on 7800 yes with this
Geez....there are so many ways to play retro games. Emulator programs/roms installed on computers. USB sticks with games and built in emulators, "Boxes" with games on them that you connect to a TV, cute lil reproductions that look like the original that you connect to a TV, cartridges full of games that plug into original consoles, and now a generic cartridge with an adapter that plug into original consoles.
Thanks for this! I have the BackBit Chip tester and love it. Never could figure out exactly how the BackBit worked. I was thinking $129 for each system and thought no way!!! But that price for the cartridge and then $19 for each system is a must have for me.
The Composite does not look any better or not as good as the RF because I can see Jail Bars in the Composite out and if it disables the Expansion Module 1 it's not worth it if the image quality is not any better or only slightly better. RGB MOD Would be better but then you can no longer use the Expansion Module 1. My Coleco Vision's RF Out is very clear, almost RGB or Emulator quality especially after I cleaned the RF OUT Jack contacts on the Coleco Vision and Ends on the RF Cable.
I did this video I believe just prior to the TMS-RGB being available and the F18A was also not available at the time. That said, I've got clients that still only want the composite if they don't have need or ability to use the RGB setups. The composite kit does NOT prevent the Exp module 1 from working and in fact, if I have a client that wants the RGB but still want the ability to use the Exp Module 1, then the composite board is installed in addition to the RGB. As for the quality of the output I have 2 CV systems of my own and one of them has excellent RF output while my main one I use in the game room has always had very poor RF output. Since I only use a modern display in my game room, the RF never looks that good so at least in my case, the composite and other upgrades for the CV were needed so that I could use them in the way I wanted. But you are correct, in that I've installed the exact same kits into multiple CVs and seen the results look good and others not so much. So it also seems to vary from console to console. I've been told there is one specific revision of the CV that actually produces the best composite output when used with kits like this.
Really amazing what this cart and an Atari 2600 can do. Far beyond the capabilities of what was intended for the 2600 back in the day. Kudos to Rob for making the cart and also to you for extensive testing.
I didn't do what I would say 'extensive' testing. But I did help out in that I have most of every variant of the NTSC 2600 and 7800 consoles on hand at the time to confirm systems that were or weren't working with earlier versions of the cartridge.
Well I can certainly understand how today's generation wouldn't be impressed by this at all or the games as a whole. They have grown up in a much more modern era of video games and technology to play them. I on the other hand and I suspect you as well, grew up seeing the birth of home video game entertainment and so we have a better understanding and appreciation.
Hi Crossbow, Anthony here from the Neo-Geo thread. I came by to say hello and show my support to you, your channel, and your service that you offer for the community to benefit from. Nice content that you offer. It will be a pleasure to browse by your previous works bro. Thank you for letting me know and I'm now subscribed to your channel. A pleasure to be on here with you brother man. 8^) Anthony...
I have links for the gerber files for these boards so you can send them to whomever PCB maker you wish to have them made. The only thing to be aware of is that you want to keep both boards to no thicker than 1.6mm at the max. I usually have the bottom boards made up to 1.6mm with my top pcb made to 1 - 1.2mm thickness.
I do see that used more and more today, but I was taught over 20 years ago to use other ESD measure such as a wrist strap and using proper ESD tools. I do wear gloves when handling parts that tend to show finger prints easily. But my hands sweat badly when wearing gloves. So when working on actual consoles etc, I have my wrist strap attached and grounded.
Thats great but your ring regardless of the strap could still hold a charge and what do you ground it to ? i find it much easier to put on gloves cutting IC's can make them over heat you can reroute them but never just dead end a chip.
@@Earths1stgamer Appreciate the comments but for a decade I used to train ESD awareness and precautions in the late 90s and early 2000s for the company I worked for. The ESD straps would get plugged into earth ground or at minimum, ground potential of the equipment being serviced. We aren't talking small computers here either but large mainframe systems and equipment for the airline industry and airports. Using the strap I've never had any issues with ESD when they are used properly along with ESD rated equipment like I use. I'm not sure I understand the rest of your comment though about 'cutting ICs can overheat'? Can you clarify what you mean regarding that comment? I think you are talking about the pins that get cut we don't use? I didn't cut the pins on the IC. I only cut them on the socket not the IC. I personally don't condone cutting the IC pins and prefer to cut the socket instead. Though I've seen a lot of work over the years where that wasn't practiced.
It is actually RGB and in the video I used a 9-pin sega RGB SCART cable into my OSSC. But it can be wired up to be compatible with HDRetrovision cables or the Rad2x to provide you with a component or HDMI output setup. There is a separate board that does provide VGA output known as the F18A. It is a more expensive solution but does provide an even better output picture when those are available. For my needs, the TMS-RGB has been excellent and I've not really felt the need to upgrade it further.
Oh for sure I can and the next tower after that. But I was only showing that the game works and uses a composite blending mode on the 2600+ console. And it was much more difficult to get the timing right holding my phone to film at the same time LOL!
I'm not the one developing this. I only made the video to show that the current work in progress version was working on the DragonFly flash cart. I'm not sure what the developer has planned ultimately for this.
This is just showing how to assemble a 2 PCB board set to make a nice mounting setup for using mini din jacks for AV upgrades. In this case I mainly use 8 or 9pin mini din jacks for RGB upgrades on Intellivision consoles.
I saw you posted in the AA forums about this as well. There have been quite a few of these that have been sold and installed without issue so I'm not sure if the issue is something with a bad batch of UAV boards or some error in the way the mount boards were assembled by TBA. Contact me through the about section and send me some pictures of your install and the mount board...etc that I can look over to see if anything looks off.
Crayon King will be making up more in the future and he usually lets me know when they are ready. At that point, his ebay store should be live again with some for sale. But I don't know exactly when that will be but hopefully soon!
Apologies as I just saw this when checking my channel comments. You can reach out to me more directly going through the About section to get more info. Thanks you and my apologies again!
Hi thanks for the video. I just bought an adapter for my coleco and it isn't powering up- tested it as you said and 1st 2 numbers tested fine but not the 12-volt part. So is it the power adapter or the coleco that is the problem you think?
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm on queue to recap a Series 1 High Definition Video model and really would like to order my own caps from Digikey. I prefer to buy 105C rated across the board and generally Nichicon or as a second backup Panasonic. Because theses package sites don't provide a list, do you happen to have or know where I can find the capacitor map and/or just list of all caps and voltage regulators so I can buy myself? Thank you.
Hey there thanks for the comment and question! Console5 actually pretty much only uses Nichicon, Panasonic, or Rubycon capacitors in their kits. And, they always use 105C rated caps. While I'm sure it would be a little cheaper to source them separately, getting the kits from a place like Console5 saves me the time to not have to do that and saved time is also saved money. That said, console5 has a wiki that shows the capacitor listing values and locations with cap maps in their wiki. Just look for the link to the wiki at the bottom of their main store page. Great info to be found there.
@@IvoryTowerCollectionsthat's great to know. Another reason I ask is because I guess console5 has gone under etc. Seeing this video is 5 years old maybe that's the case. Doesn't seem console5's website is available any longer. So I'm still on the hunt :)
@@motleypixel They are very much still alive and well! They have lots of new products they offer along with some older stuff no longer being available. But their URL is console5.com/store/
@@motleypixel Okay, that's odd, this reply doesn't appear within the actual comments as I'm viewing them so I can only reply to it via the notifications icon. But glad you got it sorted. And yeah, C5 is an amazing source for information along with them being my #1 source for most kits and other items I purchase for my service work.
The 7800 is my favorite Atari released console for sure and the 2600+ now that my part of the testing is over... is back in the box it came in and put away. My 7800 still sits at the ready for playing games.
n Gotek manual, there is a mode of formating the USB drive to 1000 floppies, by pressiong the 2 button of the Gotek drive when turning it on. I could let it format to 1000 floppies. However, the latest Gotek USB_Floppy_Manager_v140i.exe sees NOTHING about it, it looks unformatted. Anyone knows which app can manage this 1000 floppies? Thanks.
Quick question - my 5200 is usually missing some letters in the boot up screen - it seems to work fine but the game title is usually garbled. What might be the cause of this?
Couple of things can cause that. But first is to make sure you have cleaned the contacts on the cartriges themselves as corrupted/missing characters can be an indicator or poor game reads from the port. From there, I would look to the RAM itself as possibly being faulty. You can kinda confirm this by swapping the RAM chips around to see if the condition changes. From there, more troubleshooting would be needed.
I don't know the part number type for it right off hand. But I actually replaced the switch in a spare console of mine by using a spare channel select switch I had on hand from another 2600. Not as elegant but it worked and I figure is a good temporary solution until I research a proper replacement. Pretty sure the right angle rocker style switch it uses is still made and can be purchased.
That's a filter? Looks just like the original video output that I recall, back when my 7800 was RF-only (much clearer, of course). If there was only a way to apply that to a modded 7800 itself... a man can dream.
Well, I've been testing different FW for the 2600+ that most others haven't been specifically for 7800 related stuff. So while the new beta 1.1 that has been released to the masses makes lots of improvements to the 2600 side of things. There is more work being done to really address the 7800 side and it is pretty amazing what is taking place in the background!
@@Flanman113 For sure nothing will ever fully beat the actual consoles. But I gotta tell you, some of the stuff I've been testing and seeing could very well put a large part of my services out to pasture LOL!
I think the best source for the 8pin din SCART RGB cables are those from Retro Gaming Cables in the UK. That is where I ordered my 8pin cable for testing stuff with and it is great.
@@Alex13mod Your options will be more limited as you went with the 8pin vs the 9pin. You are correct in that SCART wasn't a standard here. But it is common in RGB use if you are wanting to use the RGB from the 8pin setup. I use 9pin because then I can use other cables like the Rad2x, HDRetrovision cables, or even the inexpensive Hyperkin Genesis 2 HDMI cable will work with this console although it doesn't give the best results. So to the best of my knowledge if you have to use the 8-pin, you are likely going to have to go with a SCART RGB cable for that, and then another converter in the mix that can take the signals from the SCART and output to another method from there. Exactly what are your options for connecting it to the display you plan to use it with? Maybe it would be better to just install the s-video and audio and then get something like a Retrotink5x Pro, or one of the Tink2x devices second hand if you can find one. With the Tink5x you can use the SCART RGB and get HDMI output, or with a Tink2x series you can use the s-video for the highest support quality signal from this upgrade kit and have it convert that out to HDMI.
