Experienced shade tree mechanic here haha. Another trick if you have absolutely nothing to jump that, is to unplug your hazard flasher and plug that into the turn signal one. Just don't forget to get a new one for the flasher.
Hello Alvin. Thanks for the video. I also will be ordering the Dennis Carpenter made ones for my 66 Landau. I also need to do the door seals as well. George B
Hi Matt, I think they are well worth the money, easy to install. I see you made it back to the east side of the country...it's a long haul, I've done coast to coast in Canada a few times, it's always nice to get home.
I would rebuild them if I were in the US, but here where I live in Canada, the parts are far more than buying a reman unit...which is sad, it forces a guy to waste otherwise good parts.
Outstanding presentation - thank you! Being a little longer, I had to break it up some. I hope I didn't mess up your metrics for viewers. Thank you again ~ Chuck
Hey Alvin, great video. When popping out the pistons with air while the caliper is in a vice, I leave the calipers bolted together and I insert several brake pads in between the pistons so that when I use the air to push the pistons out, they can only move a fraction of an inch out, maybe a half inch or so, but not fully out. Putting the brake pads in between the pistons prevents them from just blowing out uncontrolled. Then I remove one brake pad and blow air again to push them out further. Im basically working them out little by little until I can remove them by hand. You can use a combination of new brake pads and old used brake pads because they will be different thicknesses, allowing you to decide how far you want the pistons to move depending on how thick or thin of a brake pad you remove while pushing the pistons out. Then, after you reinstall the old pistons or new pistons and reassemble the caliper, you can test the seal by putting brake pads between the pistons again so they don’t move, and applying air to see if the seals leak. Putting them in the vice like you did is also a very good suggestion too and a better solution for those that don’t have air. Man your brake fluid in the caliper was really really bad. It wasn’t brake fluid anymore. That’s pretty dangerous and this is one of the very good reasons to purge and bleed your brake system once ever couple of years. If the pistons are pitted even slightly, they are no good. Im really surprised that yours were not heavily pitted considering the condition of the brake fluid, if that’s what we are going to call it. More like dirty 90 weight gear oil. Its okay to use 1500-2000 wet sand paper to polish the side walls of the pistons. Yes, you can purchase brand new calipers. I made a video about those and how they don’t exactly fit perfectly. There is a small flaw that must be corrected when installing new calipers. Its all in my caliper video. When I told the manufacturer their response was, “Really, are you sure? Nobody ever said anything about that before.” Im always the first one to complain. I remember when the caliper piston seal kits were available from Napa. Ahhh, the good old days. The last time I tried to buy them, maybe a few years ago, they were hard to find. I think they are now available from the Thunderbird dealers for about $20. Thanks for the entertaining content.
Hello Nick, I agree with you about using air, its a quick way to do this job, and for testing afterward. I am a little on the cautious side around using compressed air to people, I don't know their skill level, during my years of underground mining, I've seen some pretty bad incidents involving compressed air, including one fatality, it's probably just me worrying too much. lol Yes...that brake oil, if you can still call it that, was nasty, I'm glad I took the time to get that crap out of there! I found one site selling the Kelsey Hayes calipers, and I thought the price was decent...but they said in their listing that they fit every Ford with this style of caliper, except 65-67 Thunderbird, so something is different, and I did watch you video, where you ran into this problem, so it looks like they can be modified to fit. Thank you Nick, I always look forward to reading your comments. 😊
I did mine on the car. I took a pad out and put it back at right angles then started the engine and stamped on the pedal which pushed the piston out far enough to get it out once the caliper was removed. My stuck ones were well beyond saving but weren't leaking. I had 2 stuck ones each side but the car still passed it's roadworthy test here in UK !
@@davidlanghorne1603 Hey, theres another way to do it. What ever works right. Most calipers I rebuild need new pistons. These days, I just buy new calipers, its easier.
Thank You Ivan: Nice easy going explanation of rebuilding of a four piston brake assembly. My sixty four still has drum brakes. They work ok, but discs are better. Walt
We have a '64 Thunderbird Hardtop that was factory equipped with the Perma -Tuned transistorized ignition system and it runs excellent, although I did have to replace the amplifier with a NOS unit. Yes, the ignition coil is unique to that system. It's great that you were able to get your system functioning again simply by cleaning that fuse!!! I will definitely remember that. The Perma-Tuned system came out in 1963 and almost all of the '63/64 full sized Fords with the 427-engine option were fitted with that ignition system. In '64 it was first offered in the Thunderbird and a limited number of 'Bird's that year came so equipped. Fewer '65 'Bird's had it and by '66 it was being phased out and almost non-existent in the actual cars although I have seen a few '66 Thunderbird's that did come with it - most likely early production cars. Thanks, Alvin, for going over the various components of this system, it was very informative!
Hey Alvin, How can you tell if you have ignition timing that is off a bit? the 66 bird runs but runs rough at curb idle, then seems to smooth out once you give it gas. 😄
You can check the timing with a timing light very simple to do, however, it sounds like you have something else happening, an issue with ignition wires/plugs (make sure the plug wires are on the correct cylinders), the idle mixture is off, a vacuum leak, the choke is not fully coming off or the power valve is leaking...it's hard for me to say from my chair, which one(s) are the issue, but these are a few things to look at, start with the easy ones like vacuum leaks, choke and idle mixture.
Hi guys, the Thunderbird Hardtops did not come from the factory with a vinyl roof covering, only the Landau did, so there's no telling how old that top is. I would guess when the car was re-painted the owner elected to have a vinyl top installed at that time. That product seems to have worked fairly well at darkening down that old vinyl and it apparently repels water as well as you can see it beading up on the vinyl following that rain. True test will be to see how it holds up over time. Enjoying your videos on the '65 Thunderbird's!
Hi Scott, That is an excellent observation, this car would not have had a vinyl top form the factory. The previous owner bought this car at some point before 1973, and it had the vinyl top on it when he bought it, making the top over 50 years old. When it was installed prior 1973 is only a guess, and sadly the previous owner has passed away. Getting back to the Forever Black, it's not really forever, it's been a year, and could use another treatment, keep in mind that this car is mostly outside, and only covered during the winter...but it does look like this would be an annual part of the maintenance schedule.
Hi Doug, we don't do much more than cruise around town in the T-Bird, I did however take it out for a highway run last week, and the cruise control is still working, a little on the touchy side to get it set, but holds the speed once I got it set, I doubt it will ever be perfect. Lol
Hey Alvin, another fine video. I think the factory did glue the roof rail rubbers in but more often then not, tacked them in. Ive taken some apart where they must have used the whole tube of glue but I think most of the time, the rubbers just pulled out easily and there was only a little remnant of glue to scrape off. Ive tried to put them in without glue but they come out when the door is closed so I glue them in. Better safe than sorry is my motto. Yeah, conv roof rail rubbers are more difficult. One reason is the repro rubbers are much harder than the originals so the windows do not sit into the rubbers correctly. Poor reproductions. Especially the 61-63 roof rail rubbers, they are terrible. Anyway, thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
Because we are in Canada, I would have to guess the guy I bought them from, ordered them from Blue Oval Classics in Ontario, they have the Dennis Carpenter ones in stock @ $184.99 cad.
Hey Alvin, Looks like a lot easier job than I though it would be, mine are shot. Now that I know that it's not that bad to do ill go order some. God bless.
I don't know how the super glue worked. I put a little on the weatherstripping on my 76 Corvette and it immediately started 'smoking' and looked like it melted. Maybe the actual material was different from the material you have. I had a 2” tear in mine and just wanted to re-attach it. Also, I have used 3M Weatherstripping adhesive (mine was yellow) on a 66 Impala trunk lid strip but I didn't see any indication that the weatherstripping that you removed had anything like that under that weatherstripping. Do you think it was original weatherstripping? Thank you for this informative video. Great job.
I like your approach to the use of adhesive. The previous owner of my car completely filled the channels for the window seal with boatloads of adhesive. Also, the seals he used were stiff and a poor fit (maybe that explains all the adhesive). I went with Dennis Carpenter for my new seals. Couldn’t believe how soft they were-and a perfect fit. Nice work.
Hi John, I figured I would try it without over doing the adhesive...so far nothing has dropped out of place. I could see a less quality window seal would need a little more help staying in place, but these ones are really nice.
I really don't know why Ford felt it was needed, my thoughts are it's there to reduce vibration between the shift lever, and column ring...but that's just an assumption.
Hello Alvin: Thank You for this video. Well presented with clear instructions. Super glue was indeed the answer. Good to know. By the way, we have our 64 thunderbird back home in our shop. Long story: the couple that bought it became intimidated by it. Were afreaid to drive it and found that it would not fit inside their garage. So we took it back, gave them a full refund. No hard feelings. They are family. We have been driving the Bird nights and are glad it is home. It is just as nice now as when we sold it. Thanks again for your video..... Walt
Looks great not a fan of how the aux. lights look, my 79 had a push bar with lights on it, I liked that look, too bad I sold it years ago, but I have my 78 to fix up a bit and your videos will be a huge help, thank you!
Hoping to get in the Bronco in the fall, I've been gathering up parts, and already bought the quarter panels, so a lot less facing...but likely a lot of fitting. 🥴
Awesome video, my 78 Bronco has the same issuel, it doesn't work from inside switch and I don't have a key for the tailgate. I like Rancheros, love car/truck models, if I had the money/room I would own one for sure. Thanks for sharing.
Hiya Alvin! I’ve seen these used for vacuum leaks but not for mechanical timing. That’s a cool way of checking visually, rather than a compression, or leak down test. Thanks for the tip, I might look into one of those machines.
Hey Troy...yes, if smoke can get past a valve that's supposed to be closed, then there is a problem. Also it's great for checking the stuff it was designed to do, but you know me I have to push for more! Lol
Thanks for your video series on the Bronco. I have a 78 that is my hobby/project. I just rebuilt my 1st ever carb, it has a 2150, was missing the power valve gasket, which fixed my fuel in crankcase issue. Mine is an auto with a 400. It also wasn't charging the battery, found a bad fusible link and ended up installing a new alternator, kept the orignal one also. Recently found power steering pump with slow leak out of the pulley area and the c6 trans leaks some, not sure if it is the pan or multiple areas yet. I'm currently trying to figure out no brake/turn/hazard lights, the running lights/headlights work. Also doesnt stop very well and thinking the master cylinder may need repalced, haven't torn the wheels off yet to inspect brakes either. If you get time could you list your part numbers for what you replaced in this video so I can have a reference, I have a feeling that I will be replacing the same parts. Thanks!
I've had a lot of issues with power valve gaskets, I ended up using an o-ring, so far it's working, but I haven't driven the Bronco very much...so we will see. I'll see about the parts list, but really, just search Bronco or F series for 78-79, I bought all after market parts, and you may find a better deal based on where you live.
Good Job, thanks for the video. I was trying to understand if I need to disassembly my saw of the similar type to clean it after a dusty project. It doesn't look like that to me now. 😂
It sure was Chuck! It happened so randomly, making it hard to track down. I had already replaced most of the ignition parts when I bought the engine...so now a pick up coil will complete the tune up. Lol
Hey George, I've known 442Olds for as long as I can remember, and when he suggests a fix, I take it seriously...he has many years of experience, and as always, he was right. 😊
Throw a pickup coil at it! Had a few over the years acting the same way... turned out to be a bad pickup coil even though the wires were ok. Or seemed to be ok...
You are right! I cut apart the rubber insulator holding the three wires, where it passes through the distributor, the lower wire had pinch mark with a little black dot in the wire covering, it looks like the lower wire has been shorting to the ground strap connector right below it. I added a little bit of a tape barrier, and she runs much better... good enough until the new comes in. 👍
Congrats for knowing turpentine is made from turpine , which comes from pine trees. I add wax to turpentine and Slowly warm over a Low heat source , such as an electric hot plate. Thanks for your excellent video.
I haven't made any in quite a long time, and I'm out of my faux fat wood...I like the idea of adding wax, it will be more stable with wax. Thank you! 😊
I heard this was a good show.. I see you liked Brad's 71 Camaro...I have a walk around on my channel of the car and the gear vendors install. Thanks for sharing. Subed
Yes, and I would have felt bad, if I hadn't taken the time to go look, only a few steps away from home. It's not unusual for us to get temps in the 90's Fahrenheit, but we don't often get high humidity with it....so we have to suffer like everyone else this year. 🥵
Hiya Alvin Those are some beautiful tri-fives! I know you not much of a Chevy guy but thanks for sharing. Gives me a little kick to get into gear for me to get my ‘57 finished.
Hey Troy, It was a great opportunity to see this many 567s all in one spot! I'm the same, just need that little push to get back to the 65 Convertible.
Hi my 2010 journey stalls when accelerating and somwtimes just in park and while drive has like hiccups and traction control light comes on and engine light is flashing along with tire pressure. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it still same problem. Going to do the spark plugs next any advice would help thank you. Im a tradesman can DIY majority unless i need a special tool
Hi Mike, You have a lot going on with that Journey, what DTC codes are you getting? The ABS/Traction control can be a simple as a wheel speed sensor or TPMS, but the engine issues can range greatly, the fault codes may help lead to the problem(s), and eliminate the guess work. I wish I could give you more to go on. 🤔
Getting to look over the hood of a 65 going down the road brought back some great memories! That Chevy around 9:00 was listed as a 69, I'm thinking 63. My eyes shot to the 87 442, my older son has an 86. Great show - I love it when there's a mixture of years, makes, and styles. Thank you for taking us along ~ Chuck
Hey Chuck, It is a 64 Biscayne, I had to stop the video to see the details in the window sheet...the angle of the camera, coupled with the movement, makes it look like it's listed as a 69. I would have loved to have spent more time there, so many cars that we didn't get to look at, maybe next time. 😊
@@J_R_Shop Thank you for clarifying, I was confused thinking "Surely the owner knows what he has". Makes sense now. Thanks again for taking us along. ~ Chuck
