Tecmotion is a Chassis Dyno, Tuning and Customization shop located in Calgary, Alberta. Although we program lots of different vehicles, Mustangs and Fast Fords are our area of special expertise. We also race and show Mustangs and Fast Fords throughout Western Canada during the summer months.
Awesome video!! Ive been really entertained watching your videos on the lincoln mark vii. I recently came across the oppurtunity to buy a mark vii however i dont know if i have the skills/ resources to keep this car on the road. I am not a very knowledgeable person on cars however i know the mark vii is a beautiful car so i decided to research on it. Do u think it is a good investment for a 18 yr olds first car.
@@jacobhernandez2923 I hate to say it, but no. These cars are better suited to have as a secondary or fun car. If it is your only car and something goes wrong, you could be stranded. It is possible that even at 18 you might have the resources and facility to have it as a second car and if that’s the case, go for it, but sometimes if you reach too far at the beginning of a hobby, it’s a turn off. A Mustang is a lot easier to get both parts and help for and could be a better starting point, and there are still some good deals in SN95 cars out there. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Corvette hat may hurt credibility. My mother's first car that I knew of (may GOD rest her soul) had the cigarette lighter and foot actuated highbeams. I miss her.
Yeah, I thought about that but it was too late. Filming the truck was kind of an afterthought but I decided to share it with you guys, and I’m glad I did. For the record, I do drive a C8 corvette, but out of 9 vehicles that I own, 7 of them are Fords!
I always loved the dashboard in this truck, and I always wondered if there where option gauges to the left and right of the big combo gauge or if those round spots where always meant to just be aesthetic.
FYI TRIVIA: In the early 90s Ford Motorsport had a bodiless 32 Ford with an HO fuelie that they took to major street rod shows to promote the 5.0. They showed what could be deleted etc. I built my first one in 94. Still have it.
You see M100’s at summer car shows in Alberta pretty regularly and because they are about 10 times more rare than F100’s, they have been a popular restoration and restomod subject for Canadian truck enthusiasts, but it is extremely rare to see a heavier version of the truck as a Mercury for sure.
Yeah, it’s a little pneumatic foot pump which you repeatedly step on to squirt washer fluid on the windshield. Some early Mustangs used the same system.
Exactly. This far back it has an oil bath air cleaner too, and breaker point ignition. It was really a different world. Today, just the clutch is a mystery to a lot of people.
@@tecmotiondyno yeah a clutch is a mystery lol. As a kid I was the one who used to adjust the clutch on our tow truck. It’s crazy how most of the world is so dumbed down yet they want to tell me how something works 🤣
@TracyGunz Glad to hear it helped. I almost didn’t post this video because using a bolt to install the balancer is not really the preferred method, but when the special tool doesn’t fit anyway, a bolt will work. In fairness I have done lots of Ford balancers this way and if you start with a longer than stock bolt your risk to the crank threads is greatly diminished.
Good to know Sir, my ProjectGirl has alot of connecter with broken tabs. Do you know of any company that makes/offers a kit that comes with a variety of all the types of connector so we can depen and replace with new connectors?
A lot of the individual pigtails are available and Rockauto is a pretty good source for them. As far as a comprehensive kit is concerned, I don’t know of one off hand. The fuel injector connectors are some of the most critical and most often broken, even though they aren’t the style of connectors depicted in this video.
Wiring is one of the worst parts of these jobs. I spent two weeks going through harnesses for “Bad Decision” but in the end it paid off because the car just fired right up!
What a great Video. I plan to reset my son’s setup to make sure all is ok. He has trickflow twisted wedge heads. With a e303 cam. Hope all goes well. Thanks for videos.
Good luck with the job. This video may also be helpful: How to Set Up Hydraulic Valvetrain on a 5.0 Ford ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mJmTTntdMvA.html
Good to know, although I'll forget this before i need to unplug something next on an old ford like i have every other time. I wosh the injector plugs were this way, those break almost every time.
I have this exact tester. The book says, "The KOER test will not run until code 11 or 111 is obtained for KOEO". It sure will not 👍 So if youve pulled your EGR, smog pump, gas canisters, etc. You are dead in the water. '90 Mustang GT.T5
I'm not sure that is actually true. I'm pretty sure that I have run KOER tests on a car with codes in the KOEO test. I might set one up and try it to double check though. Of course, if you chip tune the car you can delete all that stuff and mark it "not present" in the software so you will not get a code for it, which would help if it turns out to be the case that you can't run KOER without a clean pass on the KOEO.
@@tecmotiondyno Just ran it an hour ago. Codes 64 ACT 82 Smog pump 85 purge canistr 87 fuel pump cycle This one is stock '90 wiring and A9L and all, no cats but yes O2, in a street rod. Ran perfect 18,000 miles til last Tuesday. Thanks. Look at book section 2-5.3 #6 on page 2-11 top.
@@hotrodray6802 the main thing there that could really affect things is the ACT. If it thinks it’s -40*F, it will definitely affect the way it runs. You’ve definitely given me something to double check though.
@hotrodray6802 There are some tests that can be done to check whether the problem is the sensor or the harness or PCM. I'm sure you can look them up on the internet. I would do the tests first before just replacing the part, but it looks like there is a problem with that system for sure.
In the Mark VII, the 8.8 had 3.27's, and those cars had an AOD. In the Mustang, as I said, the standard ratio was 2.73 and the optional ratio was 3.08. The optional ratio could be ordered with the 5 speed or the AOD. No Foxbody was shipped with a shorter final drive than 3.08, even the 93 SVT Cobra. The vast majority of the Foxbody cars did not get the optional ratio either. In later years Ford shipped 8.8 equipped Mustangs with gear ratios as low as 3.73.
Guys do 351W swaps in them. You can make anything work with enough determination but the path of least resistance for one of these is to upgrade the 5.0 it comes with.
Awesome vid , do you think there is any gain from putting air filter in the fender? More bends then a straight to the headlight with a heat shield. Also is ther any gain from putting maf closer to throttle body
Generally, placing the filter in the inner fender is the best approach for these cars. If the filter is under the hood you are going to suck hot air even with a heat shield other than a box that seals it to the inner fender. With big tubing the impact of the bends is minimized. In this case, the standard Procharger setup is to place the filter right over the driver's side headers, which is a terrible idea, so having the inlet in the passenger inner fender makes the most sense. The real issue with MAF placement is to try to get it in a straight section of pipe away from sources of turbulence. The Slot MAF has a reputation for being more stable than either the fox or SN95 style MAFs, and that is especially helpful in a blow through scenario like this. These guys put a meth nozzle in the straight section of pipe under the hood which precluded placement of the MAF there, but it is better protected and a lot more accessible if you put it between the inner fender and the throttle in a straight piece of pipe. Neither position will make any difference to power.
They are just butt connectors. If I saw that they did that type of connection on my car they would be redoing it correctly. Unpin the connector and get they proper pins. They are readily available.
@@heffytomad4741 I’m not sure what you are talking about here. This video shows a new, revised wiring pigtail being spliced into the harness using a solder seal which is a specialized connector that combines a soldered connection with heat shrink tubing in an easy to use package. This procedure results in the most reliable connection possible for this type of job.
Yes, I thought the wires should be removed from the old connector and slipped into the new... No splicing. The connector pins might need to be changed for compatability though. Seems neater than solder splice, but both work.
Great video! My car is an 88 with a pro-m maf that looks rough. I can't read any of the numbers on it but it's a 306 B cam, paxton. My question is do you need to retune the car with switching to a card style maf?
Yes, you definitely have to. This particular car uses the pro-m EFI system which is an aftermarket system that uses MAF. The BA5000 in the 3” pro tube is very similar to the 60# calibrated 3” pro tube setup that it had, so the test start shown was actually on the same calibration I had for the original MAF. You would have to do a chip tune on the car to get any slot MAF setup to work if you have a factory PCM. If you have a modular car that you are converting you will still have to tune it, but most of them can be done with a flash tune. These days getting a chip tune on a Foxbody is not always easy due to availability of chips and guys who actually know how to do it.
@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for the info! Yeah I came from the LS world and have HP tuners software so picking up an old fox body is a big learning curve for me. My car has a chip in the computer and I assume the PRO-M maf was calibrated for the cam, paxton and 24 lb injectors. The car runs decent I'm just struggling getting the idle to stop hanging up. I rev it up to 3k or so and let off and it drops to 2k and hangs there for like 5 seconds and then drops down to 1k. I ordered a new IAC and going to do a base idle reset on it today. I've been dealing with coolant leaks from the thermostat housing and water pump. I've never had these kinds of issues with a car before but I'm determined! LOL I will probably just do a Holley setup if I keep the car and the engine.
These are old cars now and they do have some old car problems like leaks and brittle wiring. A hanging idle might be a gummed up iac or a tps sensor issue where the closed throttle voltage is set too high. Of course it could be something else too, like the programming.
@@tecmotiondyno Yeah I get it! I'm having so leaks and wiring problems myself with age LOL! I still need to add an AFR gauge so I can see exactly how it's running. I will be grabbing one the pods from you soon.
@Joeshomegarage Sounds good. There is a good video on the gauge install using my vent pods here, and it is helpful even if you use some other mount system: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oLYdgQr4T2A.htmlsi=tedoJc7F2TAE8gVy
Hey sir I have a question for you. I have a 87 mustang rebuilt motor with trick flow pistons and heads with a holler systematic intake. I also have a msd 6al with distributor and coil and also have 30mins injectors. The problem I’m having is the car starts up fine but when I turn it off won’t start back up tell it sir for awhile. I change my fuel regulator but still doing the same thing. Also I swap ecu with my buddy but no change. Any thoughts of what I might need to do. Also I’m still getting spark and fuel when I try to start it back up. Thanks for your time any help would help
You will need a chip tune or at least a calibrated MAF to make that combination work. Assuming you have that, it may be a heat related problem on an ignition component like the coil or TFI module.
Hey sir I appreciate you helping me. I found out my problem. And you’re right. I swap to the factory air mass sensor and car starts right up and idle down and also starts back up every time. Thank you for your help sir I really appreciate it. Your a huge blessing and been fighting this problem for 2 months. Thanks again
Been looking for numbers for a stock aod car. My 87 made 240 rwhp and 265 tq through a aod and a 3500 stall non lockup. Maf converted, 80mm maf, 70.m tb, explorer intake, gt40p heads, and crower 15511 cam running 1.7 roller rockers.. shorty headers and off road h pipe. Everybody said i probably only gained 30rwhp but after seeing this i gained much more! Love the content and explanations on your channel. Keep em coming!!
@mattmeyers81 For whatever reason, my dyno here usually reads on the low side. To help with your comparison I looked up a similar combination to yours - gt40p heads, explorer intake, mild cam, off road exhaust - and it made 234/271 through a manual transmission on my dyno. This was one of the better results I have seen for this type of setup. An AOD car will typically show between 15 and 25 HP less at the wheels than a manual transmission car here.
@@tecmotiondyno thanks. This was my first attempt at doing any porting. I ported the lower intake and opened up the throat of the upper to match the throttle body I used. Then I port matched the heads to the intake and did a little chamber work. If I would have known I was going to convert to mass air I would have went a step up on the cam but for what it is I'm pretty happy with it. I'm installing a old powerdyne bd11a this winter keeping with this 90s build theme.
@@KWillyzz1 Maybe. It has been under construction for 10 years, and it spent 18 months at another shop. I was the first to get it to run, but it has a series of teething problems that were not compatible with my available time just at the moment - this is more of a winter project because each thing you sort out leads you to the next thing and there are parts delays and the only real way forward is to just keep working on it until it is done. If the customer and I agree to have it back for a little more extended and scheduled stay, I will probably do some more videos on it. It is a really cool car that belongs to the original owner and it is going to work with a little persistence.
It's a customer car so I am sorry I don't have all the answers. The PCM was up under the dash or in the kick panel somewhere. I don't just remember what combination of splitters allowed all three components to run, but it sure looks like I had them all working. I dynoed this car too later on, and I don't recall having to unplug the screen for the PC. I definitely did not unplug the dash.
Hey man, I love your foxbody and that 12.3 pro dash looks sick! Where did you mount your terminator x? Did you put it in the old ecm kick panel location or under the seat? Let me know, thanks!
Thanks so much for the awesome video! I purchased an all original 1988 Mark VII LSC last summer. I LOVE having the Ford 5.0 engine. The only thing I've had to do is change the water pump and just recently added an aftermarket water temp gauge and recharged the AC which still works beautifully in the Oklahoma heat! I'm hoping to eventually change the exhaust system just to get a little more sound from the 5.0. But overall love this car as a daily driver. The attention I get is mostly from older folk who probably had one back in the day. Thanks again- learned a lot from your videos!
Thanks so much for this detailed step by step. I also watched your other valve train video. I actually have the lower intake manifold off, so I'll do this job before reinstalling it. I have a 95 GT, which was the last year for the 5.0 Windsor. I'm so thankful for you Foxbody guys, since there are so many similarities. I just have to stay alert for the differences.
I’ve owned several of these cars and drive a 180k survivor daily in salty snowy New England. They all rust at the midpoint to base of the shock towers along with the frame rails and subframe local to that region. It’s the first place you’re looking. In addition, the radiator support, door hinge pillar, floor pan foot well, rear frame rails, and tail light mounting panels evaporate due to rust in short order. The rust regions you mentioned are of least concern.
I’ve owned several of these cars and drive a 180k survivor daily in salty snowy New England. They all rust at the midpoint to base of the shock towers along with the frame rails land subframe local to that region. It the first place you’re looking. In addition, the radiator support, door hinge pillar, floor pan foot well, rear frame rails, and tail light mounting panels evaporate due to rust in short order. The rust regions you mentioned are of least concern.
