Here what happens at work . I’d like to share and improve , with your comments , how I inspect diagnose and fix trucks , busses , trailers , car transporters , hi lifts trucks : Mercedes Atego / Antos / Axor / Actros / Econic/Vario Iveco Eurocargo / Stralis Volvo Fl / Fh / Fm / Fe / Fmx Daf Man Isuzu Scania Optare Alexander Dennis Dennis
I need to change oil to the manual transmission for Eurocargo and Stralis. I understand there's no filters, but from a quick glance I saw many bolts, I hope I don't take off the wrong ones, I have to look again. Is it only 1 fill bolt and 1 drain bolt? New oil is filled until reaches fill bolt? Also there are probably washers on the bolts, I don't know how to get the part number
In all the manual gearboxes the drain plug is the only one underneath with washer, the washer does not need replacing, the fill up plug on the side of the gearbox is always at 1/3 of the height of the gearbox and has the same hallen key size of the draining plug, stop filling when the oil start spilling from the filling hole, I'm about to makea video about it, but are only mercedes zf gearboxes, very similar to eurocargo and stralis, Ill try to share those vids tonight.
@@hgvtechuk4929 that's awesome! I watched all your videos the other night, and I'm planning on servicing about 15 trucks for my company. These days it's important to save some bucks... if the world wasn't going to shit with the cost of living I would be happy to give the job to a mechanic. The last thing I would need is to see how to open the dash for the cabin air filter, I was told it's a pain in the ass for the smaller Eurocargos. The manual doesn't say ANYTHING about the cabin filter
Yeas expecially on trucks with metal fuel tanks, probably because condensation creates the right enviroment for those tho thrive in the fuel, there are diesel antifungus products on the market for preventing this from happening.
The prefuel filter housing has a manual pump to press on top, but I don't use it because it builds rust on the rod and it can damage the seals and start giving problems after pressing it, I suggest to fill up the new filters with fuel before fitting them and for sure it will start with no issues, if it struggle give to it a little shot of easy start or brake clutch cleaner on the air filter box inlet before crank.
Every 2 years, is called j2 service, air dryer filter, cab filter, adblue filter. Are the only filters not showed on maintenance system on the dashboard.
Sorry but without d5 and xentry password the headquarters wont let you do any programming or changes on control units, only tests and faults codes readings.. they made sure to keep offline and aftermarket equip out of business.
Some gearbox modes are with 2 drain plug where you can dain opening only one of those, the only filter to be changed every 2 years is a tiny air filter in the TCM inlet air supply, need remove the air line fitting on the gearbox control unit the filter is inside and can cause problems if not changed in time.
@@hgvtechuk4929do you have some pictures of the drain plugs which have to be removed? And maybe one where the filter is located? Maybe a workshop manual?
Sorry for the late reply, but you should scan the vehicle with diagnostic machine and give me some faults codes. No boost can be from limp mode caused by any mechanical or electrical malfunction..
Can be many things, needs scanning and reading the faults codes, this will guide you to the right direction for further diagnosis, without faults codes you will waste too much time checking the wrong things
After the regen on my antos it comes up with poor quality adblue engine power reduce. Mercedes are shit motors and yes it been to merc garages and our mechanic still no joy.
I'm so sorry about that. Tell them if the ad blue pump is spinning but give low pressure, there is a tiny filter inside the ad blue filter house, accessible only removing the outlet pipe and then screwing off the fitting. It gives a lot of problems.
@@hgvtechuk4929 Thanks for getting back to me, the lorry went into limp mode to day and I put your comment to the mechanic, but didn’t seem that keen. If I find out you’re right there will be hell to pay because this has been going on for months now.
Our mechanic doesn’t think that is the problem,but it’s in for a service and mot next week. It will then go to the Mercedes garage to see if they can work this out. Yesterday it went into limp mode or reduce speed, the mechanic put the laptop on clearing the codes and it’s working again but that doesn’t fix the problem.
With the oil in the boost pipe. Says turbo oil seal gone . Causing engine to runaway. Still could have been over fueling causing cylinder to hydraulic. At speed this would have thrown a leg out too
@@hgvtechuk4929 the one w the MPH on the inner track would be ok for Ireland or Canada (latter is LHD drives on right). MPH outer track would be for Britain and also America. If ever maybe Volvo USA would be kind enough to send over the MPH outer track speedometers over to the UK
There are not engine service interval reset on eurocargo and stralis 2004 to 2015 models I'm working with, unless you got a truck with maintenance syst. set up diffrently.
Hi Milanikovic. All new M-B trucks need control units upgrades. In this case is the ACM aftertreatment control modul. After scanning, from start- up there is the control unit programming option, pressing on it, wile you are online ( D5 from mercedes required ), the acm will get the latest upgrade and all those faults will be gone for good. A bit long to explain why. Any way better erase all faults codes, force a regen with graphic illustrate, you need to see all the readings in real time from the graph. It can last from 46 minutes to 1 hour, better be ready with a printer and print the graph every 10 minutes because with that mode the communication can be lost easily. Once started, the vehicle will complete the regen also without diagnostics plugged on. Scan for faults codes again, the only fault that you will have to erase at any regen is: the regen could not be performed because the regen lock button was pressed. That's normal because you have to activate regen lock button ( from steerig wheel/ dash/ or screen ) to force regen. Any other faults codes or anomalies on the graph need consideration. This fault also rarely comes when sensors readings on the scr are imbalanced, that's why a regen with all readings printed can be usefull, on older vehicles this fault comes also if dpf or catalyst are clogged from ad blue/ ash/ carbons/ oil deposits. Causing scr pressure imbalance, too high on inlet and low on the outlet. Need more info to give a diagnostic report, the acm update and regen with printout results is the first move, then you need to proof the failure of a component or no further action is required and give it back.
Good morning friend, I have a fault with OC970C07, it tells me that it is the NOX sensor before the catalyst, that sensor is located behind the steering wheel.
Hi Eduardo. First thing to do before touch anything is check how many times this fault ocurred, if happened only once just erase the fault code, check if the ACM control unit has any software programming available from headquarters, if yes make the programming online, and force a dpf regen, at the end of it you will have a report of a regen with or without issues from any scr component, and the vehicle can go back to work, if after this the same fault reappear 99% of the cases youll need a new sensor. Ingnore all of this if you are not using a xentry mercedes or bosh diagnostic machine. Just force a dpf regen, if it goes trough, scan for faults codes, if there are no faults give the vehicle back to the customer the problem has to come back again for change it. The merc trucks nox sensor are 2 called: inlet/ before/ bank1 this is the sensor reading the dirt exhaust part before the scr box straight after the exhaust manifold. This control unit has a black plug!! The sensor is screwed after the adblue injection. Some actros, arocs, antos fit at the back of the scr box and can be mistaken for the so called outlet/ after the catalyst/ bank 2, nox sensor, with the white plug. 4 pins plug nox sensors tests. Check batteries power with the ignition on. Plug off the sensor. Find a good earth from chassis, one of those pin has to give you 24v or exactly what was in the batteries, ( 0,5v tollerance) the other pin is the negative, the other 2 are high can with 2.65 V and low can with 2.3 V. Don't panic voltimetre will give you a different reading like 2.6 and 2.4 or 2.5 and 2.5 this can be ok, but what if this fault sill comes back also with a new sensor and those voltages are ok? Then you need to do a load thest. For can bus you will have also 60 Homs plugged off and 120 Homs plugged on, between those 2. You can find out if are the sockets / wires corroded, breaking. If voltage is bad the end of those wires goes to the ACM if those output are still not good, the acm is faulty. But remember this happens once in 10.000 scr failure. Aftermarket sens urban driving don't last over 1/2 years. Genuine 3/5 years, working hard everyday.
Why disconnect the pipes from the module. Also try slogging spanners. They don't bought when hit with a hammer. If the chamber is stuck to the caliper put the nuts back on 5-6 threads then apply the brakes it can push it off or at least give you pressure pushing away from the caliper to hit with a hammer
The pipes cannot spin inside that kind of fittings, sometimes I just cut them, it is a mercedes workshop rule that, before removing any brake caliper components, you must fit wheel chokes, fully charge air tanks, unscrew the brake chamber spring bolt all the way off, discharge the whole air from the system, then you can start removing components. I know a mechanic in the past because did not unscrew the spring tensioner got 3 ribs broken. The easy way is removing the wheel and hummer the studs off, it will take few seconds for remove the chamber, but 5/10 minutes for the wheel, with more responsability and paperwork.
A relative of mine has one like this, please advice us what type of oil for oil change to be used for this atego, by the way we live in Iraq, north of Iraq if weather is concerned, during summer 40 to 5 degrees and during winter 10 to sometimes 0 I appreciate your help
Hi awarasaber. For all Merc trucks e6 the genuine oil name is SAE 10W40 MB 228.51 for your climate is ok. If you want to save some money and the vehicle is not underwarranti any 10w40 low saps engine oil will be ok.
With the instruments cluster buttons select service, select engine oil, and if you look carefully on the instruments cluster side there is a tiny little black round button, press it with a pen or pick, keep pressing for few seconds and the service will reset.
How does a regeneration work on a truck? where is the diesel injected to regenerate the dpf? and also does the regeneration cause an increase in the oil level in the sump like in cars?
When the differece of pressure before and after scr is high the dash will ask for a regen. Park the vehicle and leave it on hiddle, neutral with hand brake on and without touching any pedal, it will start revving by itself for 40 minutes, 1 hour. All merc trucks do not inject diesel on the exhaust manifold like volvo does. It just open to the max the egr valve sending the exhaust hot air back ti the inlet increasing the air temp up to 300/350 C°, then after the catalyst before the dpf the heat will be stored over 500 C°. Breaking the carbons to ash that get trapped by the dpf, the air gets monitored by sensors for nitrogen oxide quantity, temperatures and pressure, before and after treatment at all time also wile driving. The oil leveldo not increase in any european truck engine.if it does the fuel or water is leaking inside the block. Edit: sorry but for some reasons I'm not getting comments notific, so I keep finding those accidentaly under my videos or under other comments. 3 months to realise it and get a reply is a bit unfair for both of us.
@@nitrekxd all e6 need egr for work correctly, not only for exhaust temp but also for have a correct fuel expansion, a paccar e6 with a egr system pipe blocked by carbons did cost to another workshop, a new scr box complete with sensors and more than £14000 in parts. All because that egr pipe was causing exhaust malfunction warning on dash, and only one scr failure fault from obd scan.
Hi @mentalmidget.. yeas are all very similar except for some older models with push fit pipes to remove for unscrew the lids. Adblue filter, cab ventilation filter and air dryer filter, has to be replaced at list once a year, it's called J service. Mercedes wis on paperwork names these J1, J2, J3 and so on, every year. There's nothing to reset, not on dash and not even with diagnostic, there's not track of working hours or mileage for those 3 filters either. I found trucks with those over 7 years old, this happens when they don't want to pay for. But never warnings will come on dash, except when the filters start collapsing, leaking, or getting blocked.
Hello, how are things going? What scanner or interface do you recommend for scanning trucks, buses or agricultural machines? greetings from Argentina...
The best diagnostic machine for trucks and busses is Actia multi-diag, but I'm sorry for agricultural machine I can't tell, I don't touch these from over 20 years now.