The primary purpose of this channel is to offer product reviews and comparisons based on personal uses and experiences and to share some of my experiences with you. In addition, I'll be sharing any interesting ideas or hacks that come my way that others in the RU-vid world might find interesting, helpful, or just entertaining.
Several folk have expressed concerns about operating time. These things seem to use very little power. I needed only 2 lasers for my purposes and have them both on a single USB. Plugged it into a little el cheapo pocket-size battery pack that I got for free at a Chamber mixer. Just left it on to see how long it would last. After 10 hrs on continuously, it was still going strong and I had to turn it off and leave. The battery pack still has 3 of 4 indicator lights still on - did not even need recharging. Not sure many shops would need more on time than that. And thanks for the detailed tutorial. I'm not at all handy and It was easy to put together. Such a great idea. The 4-way ball joint pieces are about 50-75% more expensive now, but still more than worth it. But, I suspect the two way ones would work as well. Cheers!
@@anthonyjones8076 thanks for the feedback! Yeah, I never had any issues with overheating, or excessive power drain either. Glad to set up worked for you!
You are a problem solver. but this video is saturated in youtube. I dont know why? People always avoiding good tutors and trapped into the fake gurus. and then finally shout and scream like a mad ones
@@dawnduskgamer You have to produce very regularly for the algorithm to promote you and I only do it ever so often now. IDK. I’ve added keywords to help, but the gurus get the clicks because they are consistent and that triggers YT to bump them higher in the feed.
Yes. The great thing about the monitor display arm is that it’s already designed to grip table tops. So I’ve clamped it as far out of the way was possible while still being usable. If there is no table edge access (platform is built against a wall) you could look for a traditional stand that is designed to hold a monitor, or something similar. That setup would be quite as stable (easier to bump) and would take up more worktop space, but it would still do the job. On bonus of the latter, you’d be able to knotty remove it if not needed. Cheers
Hummm. Not sure. Is the connection point loose on the back of the platen or only when set in the device? Also, is it the actual platen or the slide out tray itself? Not sure what the fix would be, but knowing WHERE the movement is will help you pinpoint the problem and then I would reach out to Hotronix.
I just used this tent (Salt Creek 2 person) while it was around 35 degrees outside and I was freezing my balls off. I didn't have a really good sleeping bag either. I did have a nice Arcturis wool blanket and a goose down blanket to keep me a bit warmer. Was still absolutely freezing my balls off though.
Bamboo is hard but it's a grass and not wood. Anyway. I do agree with your conclusion and for me with my big hands the H1 is the only Fallkniven that has a comfortable handle for prolongued use making it a knife I would take for bushcraft. The F1 isn't for bushcraft unless you have very small hands because the handle is very thin. It's still comfortable enough for short term use and it's more lightweight and has a slim profile. That's what's it's designed for.
Hi. Great Video. Here is what I do. Duplicate vertical project, make the duplicate wide, load title, center, copy and paste on vertical. So far, it's worked! Cheers
They are the same. All three of these use the same size film (120) and shoot a 6x7 frame. The actual dimensions I think are like 56x70 because of the film travel along the edge. The final negative output is identical in size. Just to be sure I hadn’t forgotten anything, I pulled some negatives out from the two and stacked them - identical.
@@OneDegreeLife - And as far as square format goes ... then I would also mention the Mamiya 6, which I used and owned for several years. As much as I love an SLR style camera, those small, lightweight, very portable rangefinder cameras have a hell of a lot of advantages unless maybe you're a studio photographer. But otherwise, such rangefinder cameras reign supreme.
@@OneDegreeLife - I also owned a Bronica. Both cameras have advantages, (Mamiya 6 &7), and I can hardly deny loving to use a genuine Single Lens Reflex sort of camera. Leaf shutters of the Mamiya have a faster sync speed for flash photography, which is always a great advantage outside in bright light. As much as I love digital photography ... there's just NO substitute for using film, especially any format larger than 35mm.
@@scotthullinger4684 there is a certain feel that presets on digital files lack and though the new offerings from Fuji and Hasselblad are awesome, they don’t produce the same results (DOF/character) of larger MF like 6x7. Something like Phase One is closer but you could by every MF film camera out there with money left over for film :)
I just picked one of these up from the thrift store. I thought it would make a good secondary small keyboard to use with my Windows 10 PC while laying in bed. I didn't realize it said "tablet keyboard for iPad" but since it is just a bluetooth keyboard I figured it would work on Windows. First I tried using the program for the Logitech Unifying Adapter which usually connects any random wireless Logitech device I've tried with it but this one wasn't connecting. Next I tried the add a bluetooth device that is built into Windows and again it isn't showing up. Am I doing something wrong or is it just not compatible with Windows for some reason? Or is it defective? Thanks. PS: I realize this is a 12+ year old video and the chances of getting a response are slim but I figured it wouldn't hurt to try!
Wow! Nice find! Honestly, you’ve done far more than most should likely have thought of. I’m guessing it’s either locked to iOS or defective. Even today I’m still running ointment connection-specific issues for cameras using Bluetooth and WiFi. Both are “universal”, but communication language OVER those bridges does still prevent devices from working. Unfortunately, I think it is likely and iOS block. Sorry!
Yes. The only difference will be if the beam gets a little thicker if it drifts farther from the laser, but not a big deal. I actually used my other set up in a different video on a larger platen later.
The Mamiya has the advantage of available 645 backs for an almost ideal aspect ratio. Also the RB versions are fully mechanical so no batteries or electronics failures to worry about.
I usually don't take stones with me, at least now. I usually have a small 3-4 inch leather strop with wood backing and black and white Bark River compound. Black for "fixing" edges. White for polishing to a mirror. Even at home now, I tend to skip 10K and 15K stones and finish with just the white compound. Hope this helps!
This is the exact kind of video I have been looking for, and RU-vid absolutely refused to let it pop up in the search results. I had to find it in a photography forum that was talking about 6x7 cameras. Thank you for making this
There are multiple door anchors on their updated website. Which one did you use. Didn't see a close-up shot of them. I love the set up you made for the doors.
Hummm. It looks like the one I use is no longer available. Mine is just a simple plastic hook for less than $2. When I go back to my online order history, the items have hyperlinks to the product page from the invoice and that no longer has a link. It appears that they've updated the product line to all titanium. Honestly, the mitten hooks I have linked might work in a similar way. When I get home today I'll double check what they look like and see if there is a suitable/similar replacement. The updated versions are 2x or more the price and have double clips. This could be advantageous to hook through BOTH sides of a bungee LOOP at once, but it's probably overkill. Based on a quick look at the lineup, if I had to pick one today, it would be the Ringworm version as the "ring" portion will attach to the shock cord better than the larger slit-style layouts of the others- like how I used a the ringworm single clip on corner guy outs. The other versions are webbing based and on a round bungee wouldn't work as well. Thanks for letting me know!
I just double checked, and the door clips do appear to be discontinued. However, both the orange and green bungees that I use in my setup will fit within the hook opening on the traditional ringworm. So, if I were purchasing today, I would either spring for the new ringworm version of the door clip mentioned in my previous comment with the double hooks, or just go with the original ringworm which I demonstrated in the corner guy out points. It latches in much the same way as the clips I used, the plastic ones are just less expensive. Cheers
Good video. Thanks. I've ordered a Warbonnet, but it hasn't arrived yet. I have a question about the bug net suspension. Would it be possible to hang it from your tarp ridgeline? It seems like if you could, you might be able to keep it lifted, but using shorter line.
Yes! If you add additional prusik loops, this is a great way to go about it. You can add loops directly in the ridgeline, but the spacing would vary depending on tree span. So a knot in one place for one setup might not fall in the same place the next time - if that makes sense. So, however you decide to add anchor points will work!
I use the harbor freight lasers, but this way is great but I was unable to get any of the links you set up plus the layout. You have another site I can download?
Hummm. The links in the video description are all there. The platan download is there for sure, I just double-checked it. The links for Amazon, etc., are also there. However, I have been getting a lot of messages from people purchasing them and it might be that they are sold out?
Fantastic video and I am also preparing to make one with your technique with my fuji system. Yet as I was going through the web, I came past "The downside to the 100mm system is that the are just small enough that on some extreme wide angle there is vignetting in the extreme corners, particularly when the lens is focused to closest focus distance." Curious if that is an issue that you encountered when you applied the 100mm filters to your adapted setup. Thanks!
Hello! I have since changed out the 7-14mm for the 9mm; but not that I recall. I had to make sure the mounts were as far back on the lens barrel as possible so as to try and get the glass of the front filter to basically touch the built-in hood on the lens. This ensured that the rim of the filter was as far as possible out of view. If, however, you were to thread a hood like this on an ultrawide, because the "funnel" of the hood naturally extends forward and out, it very well might get in the way. Mounting it like this pushes the front lip of the filter BACK to basically EVEN with the lens front and extends it far to the side. I would do a test for you and send you a download link, but as I mentioned, I no longer have this particular optic. Suffice it to say that I don't remember it presenting any issues, and if anything, there was a slight crop in post. The good thing is, it's such a cheap setup it might be worth trying. Even without the addition of the filters. Best of luck!
Yes, sort of. Because a convex edge is curved, you have to. If you you don't, and aimed to keep it flat, you would end up with a scandi sort of grind. So, while it IS a rocking motion, I typically do one "complete rock" from one side of the bevel to the other - if that makes sens. It's one long stroke from one end of the stone to the other. Same with stropping.
@@OneDegreeLife thanks, didn’t expect an answer so quick. One more question, I have a worksharp field sharpener on the way as a cheap learner. Do you think it should be sufficient? Or do you recommend anything else?
@@runeass No problem! For learning, you can start almost anywhere. I've used diamond/metal plates, sandpaper, etc. I've not used a worksharp, but I can certainly see some pros to it. The angle guide could be helpful and the rocking action for finishing the curve. Honestly, it might be something that does the trick and that you end up liking. No need to change. For me, of all the surfaces I've tried, I just really perfer the wet stones. They have a certain "feel" that works for me and I'm able to feel through the resistance when a certain grit has "done its job." Honestly, it comes down to the user and results. If what you are doing works, why change it? One thing I do really recommend is finishing with a strop. It's also great for quick touchups and honeing if the edge isn't super dull or damaged and only takes a minute or two. I've tried several, but really like the double sided strop from DLT Trading and their triple compound. I only use black and white, but if I could only have one, it would be the white. Helps polish the edge and really does an incredible job tuning the edge up when needed. BEST OF LUCK!
Thank you! Your video is still just as helpful now as it would've been had I found it 2 years ago! I appreciate you, so much! I have a 15x15 auto press as well as a 20x24 pull out drawer press and I'm sure that using the basics that you've explained, I can set this up for both of them. 👍🙏
Awesome! I hope it works out for you! I did a followup video with a "better" setup as well. It's more like the actual Hotronix one, but it does require some cable cutting. Check it out if you think it would be helpful! Either way, I hope your final setup is more productive!
Another possible answer is to get a usb powered battery charger (inexpensive) and a second battery. Alternate charging one battery from your power-pack while you use the other one. It does mean changing batteries occasionally, but that only takes a few seconds.
Great video. We live pretty close to the Fork and have filmed a couple videos for our channel. My favorite way to fish it is by kayak. That way you can avoid the slippery rocks. Again great video.
Thanks! I've emailed Brandon at the Fly Shop about putting in there, but haven't done it yet. I just moved further south, so this is farther now, but still hope to do it at some point. Cheers!
great video. I was actually looking into the same thing and can confirm your research is correct. Two side nodes: 1. They fixed it for the OM-1 2. The cables you found are so called "trigger" cables that will actually communicate with the the powerbank and instruct it to deliver this voltage. The communication protocol used is PD or QC for the USB-C Cable while USB-A supports QC only. The powerbank may or may not be able to supply the required combination that's why it might not work with all combination of cables / power banks or power bricks. If the power source can not offer 9V (altough most of them do), then the power source may fall back to deliver the standard 5V to the DC plug which would not work but typically would not harm the device either. Power sources always have the supported voltages printed on them somewhere, so my recommendation is to always check whether they support 9V to be on the safe side. An alternative method would be to use a cable with a build-in boost or buck/boost converter, so that the cable would accept any voltage from the power source and then the cable itself would convert the voltage to the required level. This may have a better compatibility, however it's slightly less energy efficient here is a great German resource for further reading: techtest.org/usb-power-delivery-ladegeraete-mit-pps-uebersicht-und-info/
Thanks for the update! The USB to DC cables are both rated at 9V and, yes, that's the beauty of PD power. I was unaware if PD negotiated the voltage correctly on non-USB interface devices like DC inputs. Glad the OM1 has it sorted out. Still a mystery on the EM series as virtually every other manufacturer that I've used from the same era didn't have this issue. Thanks again!
I just acquired the same OMD...Mk III model. Seems when I use my external HDMI (Marshall) monitor the advanced shooting options such as bracketing and focus stacking are not accessible. They are greyed-out. I use it on a copy stand for macro work and focus stack images, so the external monitor is handy, but not so much having to switch it off and read setting off an inverted rear display! Any thoughts?
Hey, @paulhayes750. Yes, unfortunately, they are disabled in HDMI per the user's manual. I've tried every setting for output under the latest firmware with no changes. "• HDR shooting, multiple exposure shooting, live ND shooting and BKT (bracketing) shooting including focus bracketing are not available during HDMI connection with a TV." Hope this helps.
Hey, thanks so much for your quick and informative response! OM-Systems Tech Support told me it was the monitor (which makes ZERO sense). @@OneDegreeLife
@@paulhayes750 Ya, that's strange, but just because they purchased the company doesn't mean they know the older lines inside and out, I suppose. It's in the manual. It does say "TV", but that's synonymous with monitor since they only display the HDMI feed. The OM-1 might have rectified this, but unfortunately, I don't have any hands-on experience with it. Hopefully you can find a work around!
Thanks for your review and diligent explanation. I'm used to having tents with the mesh coming all the way down close to the bathtub and this allows ventilation lower to the floor during warmer months. Leaving the vestibule doors closed still allows for good venting and assures rain protection with lower mesh. I don't understand why the fabric is so high up instead of mesh lower except to minimize drafting and water intrusion on extremely windy days. Did you have any uncomfortable venting issues with the Salt Creek ?
All great points. It’s higher on this tent than any other I have owned - with the excepation of the REI 6-person mansion I bought on mega sale for groups. No real issues for me, but I normally don’t camp much in warmer weather, at least not the last 4-5 years. Highs at night in the 60s at worst. One thing that helps with this one, for me, is when using it solo, there’s a lot more real estate, so condensation is kept at bay pretty well. If there were two larger people, maybe that would be different. That doesn’t mean it would/wouldn’t be an issue, I just can’t speak to it from experience. The fabric at the base is a bit “softer” than some of my other tub-based tents, esp my REI 2-man. Perhaps that’s contributing to better air flow was well. Sorry I can’t be more specific on it for you. Cheers
Aloha from Hawaii 🌺! Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful tip! Alignment is the one thing that stresses me out 😫. I just ordered the lasers off Amazon at triple the price (HFT does not ship these to Hawaii), and will be ordering the tri-pod from Walmart. You should do an Amazon site where you get commission off your referrals!
So glad it was helpful! Would have been down your way in 2021, but the Delta variant…I digress. I’ve thought about a page. The Amazon links I use now do help me out a tiny bit though. Hope you love your setup!
Interesting question! Because I ended up getting a new job that requires a lot of travel, I actually parted ways with this press and stopped doing apparel. I think the upper platen shell is steel, but the it could be aluminum. Sorry I can’t confirm it for you. I’m sure other RU-vidrs can confirm it for you. Best of luck!
