Your going to wish you marked those headliner rods. There's different holes that allow for tight adjustment on the headliner and you want to know which holes were used forthe rods for when you put a new headliner in.
I got a 69 and it looks to me like your videos are gonna be the best at helping me tear my 69 down for replacement of some key items like fender apron, floor boards fenders and doors along with bumpers and valances which have all seen better days.😊 Other things like airbox and defroster to restore the heater in her. It gets cold in the Texas panhandle so a heater and defroster are needed. Great video by the way. Don't get stung. With me it's gonna be mud daubers. Spiders also on this old rust bucket but her 302 is in pretty good shape oddly enough. She hasn't been on the road since 1998. Engine was frozen but a little marvel mystery oil and a breaker bar, new plugs and a gasoline primer and she fired right up! Small miracles. Wrong transmission in her though. Someone tried to make her a Automatic. She's supposed to be a three speed. They had the clutch pedal stuck underneath the carpet! So bye bye to the Automatic tranny. It wasn't even hooked up correctly. They even had the wrong radiator on her! Wow! What some folks try to do.
Thanks for the video's. My first car was a 70 coup. I always wanted another one in a fastback. If you dont mind me asking, in what state are you located ?
Hey I was wondering how you are able to remove the lower dash? I own a 1970 mustang with AC and c4 trans. I got the passenger side loose but there's something holding in the portion on top of the cigarette lighter and wiper speed dial. I've removed all visible bolts.
hello my friend, i come from France and i have mustang 70 coupe with 351W. Your video help me so much with some stuff. Thanks mate. Ready for your next video !
Thanks for this latest video, Caleb - much appreciated! That's one huge project but go one step after the other nice and slow does it - mileage may vary 😊
I'm 74 y/o. I have worked with old cars my entire life, when I see a Mustang like yours I wonder if most people understand that only 10% of these rebuilds get completely finished. Folks have good intentions, but life gets in the way. All the parts that get taken off, even the screws, should get bagged and labeled, so that when you DON'T complete the job, you have all the trim and parts boxed to sell to the next guy. Like all the chrome trim for the lay down back seat. That option was expensive back in the day. Today multiply that by 10. I learned the hard way. Even when you can't complete the whole restoration, you have ALL the parts. They're not scattered all over the garage and every washer, bolt and nut is accounted for. Good luck. I'm following your every step. 😀😁😁
More videos definitely Love these restoration projects it keeps me on point with my project I also have a Mach 1 that has been sitting in my grandfather barn for 32 years all original 52k miles on her M code 4 speed manual..thanks for sharing!! 👍😎
Hey, that's quite some progress you showed in this video! The part at 1:19 is the hold down bracket for the battery - the battery holders, shown at 1:28 go in there.... Keep em coming, interesting stuff! Greets from far away Switzerland! Charles
Hey Caleb, Thanks for this latest installment! Much awaited and appreciated! Even though you had me scared there for a moment when you stood on the movable jack 😯🙂. Been there done that and got me a badly aching shin when said movable jack, well, decided to move 😉... Keep em coming - being they long or short. Whatever fit's into your schedule. Greets from far away Switzerland _ Charles
@@CalebsClassicCars Hell yeah dude, nice find. I'm searching for a 70 mach 1 myself, copart has a few rn but they're smashed up except one white one but it's too nice already restored and will probably go for too much, plus it's automatic and I don't want that. I've picked up a few vehicles from copart in the past. They always have lot number handwritten in yellow on the driver side window.
@@urbandisturbin oh that's how you knew. Yeah it's hard to find one on there I paid a good amount for mine because as you just said there ether smashed or like new.
I talk to you on other videos about this 70 mark 1. I was a paint and body man for over 35 years. If there's anything I can do to help you just let me know in the comments. The 1st thing I can tell you to do is stop spraying WD40 on Paint areas. It soaks through the paint down to the metal. It will give the painter a bunch of problems when he tries to paint it. Even if he strips it to bear metal there can still be problems from that. My 1st bit of help is stop spraying WD40 on paint. I have done show vehicles that have taken 1st place in the show and best paint of the show. With my experience and what I've done during my years of work. Maybe I can pass some of it to you.
Ok I will limit the wd 40 spraying. And yes I could definitely use some information on body work and paint. First question if I want to strip the paint and undercarriage coat is a sand blaster the best option?
@@CalebsClassicCars 1st and above all get yourself a charcoal air mask. Do not breathe any of these materials without one on.On the undercarriage a sand blaster would do fine. It will take it right down to metal. On body parts not so much. They make a blasting material made from coconut shells that you can use that will take the pain off and you will not end up screwing up your metal. If you blast be sure you take out all the glass That you can and put it up somewhere where it is protected. Windshield and backglass I would not cut them out myself. I would get a professional to come do it if I was you. They do really need to come off so you can check under them for rust. If you cover up your windshield and backglass be sure that you tape it down with several good liars of tape and use something that the blasting material will not eat through to the glass. You got to be very careful when blasting on the metal. You do not want to warp it. When you blast close to the backglass and windshield be sure that you do not get to close to them. You are better off to sand that Paint off by hand machine. From the beginning to the end of the job use PPG products. PPG has a DP40 sealer. It is greenish Gray and color and does a fantastic job. I personally think PPG products gives the best job out there. After you have blasted everything clean blow it off with high air pressure. Use a clean tack cloth before you spray the DP40 on the undercarriage. Use an acid etch on the body And always tack it off before you spray the next coat then spray it with DP40. DP40 is a great sealer and it can sit for a long time after being sprayed on and not painted. But don't let it sit too long As far as primer that goes over your body work use all PPG product. Do not repeat do not use any lacquer products or enamel products. Even though you are going back with the yellow pait use a basecoat clear coat. As far as shine and depth you will be glad you did.
@@CalebsClassicCars I forgot to tell you earlier that when I paint my 72 Chevy C 10 truck I will be using PPG Products. I am painting it a solid tangerine Orange color and I am going to use base coat clear coat. I have never won a car show using a single stage paint. I was always getting beat out of 1st place till I start using basecoat clear coat. After that 80 percent of my entries won 1st place. I wish I lived out in California because I would come by and help you build that car. We would turn it into show quality. But I live out in the South on the other side of the Mississippi from you. I do love that style of Mustang.
The originals are the ones on the car. Ones in the trunk are not for a 70 mark one Mustang. Also it's not just a 351. It is a 351 Cleveland not Windsor. The Cleveland is a big block. I know about the body because I was a body and paint man for over 35 years. I did everything from frame to the body to the paint. I used to be PPG certified and I-car certified. I was certified on chief easy line frame machine. But I'm retired now and just work on my own stuff. I have a 72 Chevy pick up with a rebuilt 350 motor. Rebuilt front end. Break from boster to pads have been replaced new. New radiator and radiator core. New wiring harness under the hood and under the dash from brothers. Rally sport wheels and centers. Most of the hard stuff has been done. Now it just needs body work and paint and a few odds and ends. Truck will crank and transmission will backup and pull forward. New EdelBrock 4 barrel New disturbander and stainless steel headers. Is this something you would like to trade for. I like the mark one.
@@CalebsClassicCars OK I never know if I don't ask. You got a pretty car or at least it will be when you are done. That 351 Cleveland that you have in it is one h*** of a motor. I had a 71 mark 1 Mustang with the same motor. There was nothing in this town that could touch that car.
Are you sure that's a mark one and not just a fast back. If I remember right the mark 1 in 1970 had a pot metal moaning that ran down the lower side and it said mark one in it. I may be wrong and that may be in the 69 but I thought it was the 70. Do you trade vehicles. I've got something that you might be interested in.
Reminder we my comeapart look the same it 15years and its in new sheet metal new back end foors motor trans done now test run and to painting. Color is acpokoblue with 4sp 351 Cleveland .got to keep going
Keep it up. I just bought a mach 1 for $1350 homeless ran out of luck. I'm 19 with no car experience. I just knew I had to buy it. 1350 is a deallllll, It runs and drives it just need alot of work.
