I got a 69 and it looks to me like your videos are gonna be the best at helping me tear my 69 down for replacement of some key items like fender apron, floor boards fenders and doors along with bumpers and valances which have all seen better days.😊 Other things like airbox and defroster to restore the heater in her. It gets cold in the Texas panhandle so a heater and defroster are needed. Great video by the way. Don't get stung. With me it's gonna be mud daubers. Spiders also on this old rust bucket but her 302 is in pretty good shape oddly enough. She hasn't been on the road since 1998. Engine was frozen but a little marvel mystery oil and a breaker bar, new plugs and a gasoline primer and she fired right up! Small miracles. Wrong transmission in her though. Someone tried to make her a Automatic. She's supposed to be a three speed. They had the clutch pedal stuck underneath the carpet! So bye bye to the Automatic tranny. It wasn't even hooked up correctly. They even had the wrong radiator on her! Wow! What some folks try to do.
well done. i own a 69 and just finished half of the restoration. it's driveable though and back on the road for a couple of months from now on… until i start part 2 (back of the car, quarter panels, trunk eg). keeo up the good and interesting work. like to see the details (always comparing it with mine and what i found). subscribed
Love your videos - reminds me when I was still young and beautiful 😇 when I had a 70' Mach I as well (351C, manual transmission). Keep them videos coming. But just one thing: Please keep them wasps alive. They do have their right to exist just as we do. Once you find the nest and put it far away enough (search in YT to find out how - simple) they will be gone in absolutely no time. Been there done that...
👋 Hi I'm Ramon nice to meet you I enjoy you're channel and the content. Can you please put more detail in the videos. An longer videos too. I hope that I am not being to rude. I hope you have a great week. See you on you're next video LATE
Hi Ramon nice to meet you to. No your not being rude I will try to put more detail into my videos. Maybe I will make two videos per upload one longer and more detailed and one short.
Reminder we my comeapart look the same it 15years and its in new sheet metal new back end foors motor trans done now test run and to painting. Color is acpokoblue with 4sp 351 Cleveland .got to keep going
1970 is the most unique Mustang. It sounds funny to say, but it's really halfway between the 69 and the 71. The look only lasted one year, and that's why I find it so bizarre. It's like they knew the look they were going to in 1971 and they didn't think the public was ready for it so they went halfway there. Maybe that's the case, I don't know. I left a comment in the last video about my Dad's friend having restored a 69 Mach 1 and a 70 Mach 1 when I was a kid, and he stored them in our barn, so again this video is nostalgic for me.
Yes I know what you mean it is amazing all the machs they look similar yet different that's one of the reasons I like them so much. And if they were in your barn did you ever get to drive them?
@@CalebsClassicCars I wasn't old enough to drive and unfortunately moving the cars from the garage to the barn was the extent of it, but I do remember that 351 rumbling and torqueing the car sideways when it was revved. The one I actually got to rip around in was his dad's 1988 Mustang GT (blue and silver). That was great, too, but obviously a different experience.
New sub here 👍🏾, I know someone that wants 14k for one in very similar condition(california car) very little rust, i dont know much about the value of the car is auto too . What do you think 14 k is in the high side ? Thank you .
Thanks for the sub! Mine is a California car and I paid $14,500 for it and that was i think 4 years ago if it has the engine and transmission still in it its worth 14k. Before you buy it I would recommend doing a vin search to see if it's the year, make, model you want
I talk to you on other videos about this 70 mark 1. I was a paint and body man for over 35 years. If there's anything I can do to help you just let me know in the comments. The 1st thing I can tell you to do is stop spraying WD40 on Paint areas. It soaks through the paint down to the metal. It will give the painter a bunch of problems when he tries to paint it. Even if he strips it to bear metal there can still be problems from that. My 1st bit of help is stop spraying WD40 on paint. I have done show vehicles that have taken 1st place in the show and best paint of the show. With my experience and what I've done during my years of work. Maybe I can pass some of it to you.
Ok I will limit the wd 40 spraying. And yes I could definitely use some information on body work and paint. First question if I want to strip the paint and undercarriage coat is a sand blaster the best option?
@@CalebsClassicCars 1st and above all get yourself a charcoal air mask. Do not breathe any of these materials without one on.On the undercarriage a sand blaster would do fine. It will take it right down to metal. On body parts not so much. They make a blasting material made from coconut shells that you can use that will take the pain off and you will not end up screwing up your metal. If you blast be sure you take out all the glass That you can and put it up somewhere where it is protected. Windshield and backglass I would not cut them out myself. I would get a professional to come do it if I was you. They do really need to come off so you can check under them for rust. If you cover up your windshield and backglass be sure that you tape it down with several good liars of tape and use something that the blasting material will not eat through to the glass. You got to be very careful when blasting on the metal. You do not want to warp it. When you blast close to the backglass and windshield be sure that you do not get to close to them. You are better off to sand that Paint off by hand machine. From the beginning to the end of the job use PPG products. PPG has a DP40 sealer. It is greenish Gray and color and does a fantastic job. I personally think PPG products gives the best job out there. After you have blasted everything clean blow it off with high air pressure. Use a clean tack cloth before you spray the DP40 on the undercarriage. Use an acid etch on the body And always tack it off before you spray the next coat then spray it with DP40. DP40 is a great sealer and it can sit for a long time after being sprayed on and not painted. But don't let it sit too long As far as primer that goes over your body work use all PPG product. Do not repeat do not use any lacquer products or enamel products. Even though you are going back with the yellow pait use a basecoat clear coat. As far as shine and depth you will be glad you did.
@@CalebsClassicCars I forgot to tell you earlier that when I paint my 72 Chevy C 10 truck I will be using PPG Products. I am painting it a solid tangerine Orange color and I am going to use base coat clear coat. I have never won a car show using a single stage paint. I was always getting beat out of 1st place till I start using basecoat clear coat. After that 80 percent of my entries won 1st place. I wish I lived out in California because I would come by and help you build that car. We would turn it into show quality. But I live out in the South on the other side of the Mississippi from you. I do love that style of Mustang.
