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Hey I came to do the install I got everything but then o can’t find my wiring harness I have a Holden Captiva 2011 and all I see are small little cables I tested them and it runs the test of constant 12 v but I’m not sure what I can do
@@henryjtien Thanks for the comment. Adjustments may need to be made to the clutch system itself rather than the pedal as the clutch pedal in a Subaru Forester is typically not designed to be adjusted for height or engagement point. You may need to visit your mechanic to confirm or check if your particular model can be adjusted through the pedal. Good luck!
i love this vid imma install one soon but with the steering wheel lock cause i dont wanna make a duplicate key can i use my regular key put in the acc to prevent the steering lock and take it out???
@@KCCLIP-s hey there. The key has to be kept inserted in the ignition (even in ACC position) to prevent steering wheel lock out while driving. Good luck!
@@KCCLIP-s if you remove the key in any position the steering wheel will lock up while driving, you need to keep the key inserted in the ignition barrel to prevent that. That's the reason I had a duplicate key made then cut it to size so it can sit flush in the ignition barrel to prevent lock up. I hope this helps.
@@lestervillalon4648 Pag masyado po mataas o mababa ang bite point pwede po yun maging dahilan ng incomplete disengagement ng clutch na isa sa dahilan ng dragging. Kaya dapat mahanap nyo yung sweetspot pag ina-adjust nyo yung bite point. Kailangan nyo itest drive ang sasakyan para malaman nyo kung smooth yung ginawa nyong adjustment. Kung may sabit pa rin, iadjust nyo ulit. Unti-unti lang muna ang pihit sa pushrod hanggang sa makuha nyo yung tamang setting. Kung sakali hindi po nawawala ang dragging kahit ano gawin nyong adjustment, iconsider nyo rin yung posibilidad na maaring mababa na yun clutch fluid level o may hangin sa clutch fluid lines, o may worn out components sa clutch system nyo na dapat mapalitan. Eto po yung panahon na kailangan nyo ipa check sa mekaniko ang sasakyan.
Salamat sir, although diko pa na try pero sa tingin ko gagana to. Lumakas kasi ang ang fuel consumption after ko ma linis ang throttle body, yung una kong ginawa linis ng spark plug at fuel injector , lumakas sa gas pero nag ok sya after ko patakbuhin ng 90 kph. Ngayon naulit na naman
@@reymundmacabenta1 welcome sir. Isama nyo na din po sa linis yung MAF sensor, madali lang linisin, meron din ako tutorial sa playlist kung kailangan nyo reference. Good luck po!
good day sir salamat sa pag sagot sa mnga tanong na sagot na din mnga tanong ko katulad dun sa iba.. kung masasagot mo pa itong isa mula sakin samat sir at kung di na abutin ok lang din.. yung amoy sir ng tambutso ko ang sakit sa ilong... ang tapang ng amoy.. nag babawas na rin yung langis ko.. nkaka isang litro nang langis sa bawat 5000km wala naman tagas, spark plug malinis.. usap usapan ay oil seal daw.. iwan ko. ang tanung ko sir ay pwede ba na map sensor din ang maging dahilan ng masang sang na amoy ng tambutso pag umaandar.. thanks sir more power!
@@janeangi6917 Good day din po. Kung malakas po magbawas ng langis ang makina kahit walang visible leak, maaring senyales po yan ng internal engine wear (ex. worn piston rings, valve seals, etc.) kaya nakakapasok na ang langis sa combustion chamber at nasusunog kasama ng gasolina. Isang factor po yan na pwede maging sanhi ng matapang na amoy sa exhaust. Tingnan nyo rin po ang kulay ng usok sa tambutcho. Kung blue o blueish gray yung usok, yan po ay senyales na humahalo na ang langis sa gasolinang sinusunog ng makina. Yung tanong nyo po tungkol sa MAF sensor, pwede po sya maging contributing factor kung mali po ang timpla ng air-fuel ratio at may incomplete combustion dahil sa inaccurate reading ng madumi o sirang MAF sensor. Sana po nakatulong ang sagot ko kahit paano.
Ive a question, sometimes the exhaust pipe is releasing a weird sound and when newly started! And the engine is underpowered for a few minutes! Suddenly it's getting well.. is the a way that I can send you that short video? Thank you
Your car's exhaust noise & temporary loss of power when starting could be due to several issues. Common causes include condensation in the exhaust system, a small exhaust leak, faulty spark plugs or ignition coils, fuel system problems, oxygen sensor issues, etc. As the engine warms up, these problems may temporarily improve. To address this, inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the condition of spark plugs & ignition coils, & ensure the fuel system is operating properly. Using an OBD-II scanner to check for fault codes can also help identify sensor issues. If the problem persists, it's advisable to take your car to a qualified mechanic for a thorough inspection, particularly if you don't have the equipment needed to diagnose the symptoms yourself. P. S. I did not make a tutorial on cleaning the fuel injector system because I felt it was unnecessary since fuel itself has a cleansing effect on the injectors and fuel lines as it passes. But, maybe in the future I will 😊 Thanks for watching!
Bro I'm looking for a video to open and clean feul injector system! But unfortunately you don't have a video for that, since your videos are very simplified I wanted you to make one.
I have a 2008 Infiniti g35 Sedan rwd 6spd, only mods I have done to the Trans is the CSC delete Kit which is PHENOMENAL, also,Light fly wheel-BUT my car revs very high in 4th or in any gear honestly. And over time the clutch engagement have gotten a bit higher, My friends are telling me that I just need a new clutch, in which I was going to run a Custom made falcon Kevlar clutch just hoping it’ll work, what do you think?
thanks for sharing your experience with your 2008 Infiniti G35! The high revs in 4th (or any gear), along with the clutch engagement getting higher over time, do indicate that your clutch might be wearing out. Your friends are likely right about needing a new clutch. A custom-made Falcon Kevlar clutch could be a good option, especially if you're looking for something that can handle more aggressive driving. Just make sure the custom clutch is compatible with your current setup & driving needs, but before making the final decision it’s always a good idea to consult with a mechanic familiar with your specific mods. Good luck, & hope your G35 keeps running strong! 🙏 Thanks for watching!
Ok...cool...i have a 2018 chevy colorado that has 32,000 miles on it.. the factory adjustment is about half way up to bite...i never liked a high clutch bite...on my older trucks i always just gave more freeplay to position the bite lower...like your doing here...i like it to catch about 1 or 1 n half inches fron the floor...i can drive smoother that way n not so much shaking between 1st n 2nd....ill look at mine and adjust it..thanks.
@@steverugerguy9606 Thanks for sharing your experience with your 2018 Chevy Colorado! I prefer a lower bite point too, and I agree that the transition feels smoother between gears. I hope your adjustment goes well. Have a good one! I appreciate you dropping by 🙏
Great vid! Very detailed and precise step by step. Could you please pop a link to where you have purchased the system? And also, ive seen the vids where guys switch the barrel to ACC position abd then remove the barrel. Is that a safe option? Additionally if theres an immobiliser, what do you do in that case? Many thanks
Thanks for watching! Yes, removing the barrel is also a safe option. In case of factory immobilizers the common practice is to locate the chip inside the original key and tape it on or near the immobilizer antenna to bypass the system and use the transponder that comes with the push start kit as the main security/immobilizer. Here are links to the push start kit: ph.shp.ee/p9tG46v (Shopee) amzn.to/3Yuh9nF (Amazon)
best informative educational movie and movie format i have ever seen and high quality & focused/detailed video filming recording you seldom encounter. kudos you have got a new subscriber and you helped me diagnose my own i30 braking problem just from watching your amazing educative detailed movie. keep them coming mate amazing work.
@@elpidiogabriel9147 May I ask which product you are referring to, sir? Are you asking about the MAF sensor cleaner spray used in the video? If you are, the answer is: yes, it is safe. You can use any brand as long as the spray is indicated for cleaning MAF sensors.
Yung tubig sa harap malaki ang probability na yan po ang cause nya. Yung tubig sa likod pwede rin po dumaan sa butas ng body para sa rear light housing pag pumalya yung weather seal dahil maluwag yung turnilyo. Icheck nyo po kung basa o may trace ng tubig yung flooring ng trunk nyo. Pag meron, malamang dun po sa butas ng rear light napasok ang tubig. Higpitan nyo po turnilyo nung rear light housing para lumapat ng maayos yung weather seal.
Mines makes a slight tick noise when pressing it down. It doesn't affect the way it drives or feels, i just notice it started making that noise. The rpms are normal but i can definitely feel that slight tick when i do hear it.
The process is about the same. You have to find the origin of the hose, usually in the front where the condensation catcher/collector is. If the hose is too long you can use air pressure to force the debris out.
Thank you so much! My car has had this issue for about 8 months now. I've been putting it off bc other videos made it seem so complicated, but I followed your video and fixed it within 10 minutes. Thank you, thank you!
I ajusted my clutch pedal on my 10th gen civic si and now the bite point is nice and low how i like it but am i causing more wear?? When up shifting i let go of the clutch and since it bites sooner the revs are forced down. Only thing i can do is hold the clutch all the way down for a second before releasing. Also with downshifting i blip and release but it bites quickly so the revs lock into proper rpms very quickly. Is this okay? Any tips for 10th gen si?
It's good that you give the synchros a chance to match, but you might have adjusted the bite point too low if shifting gears becomes cumbersome or complicated. It's important to find a balance. If the engagement isn't smooth, particularly if the engine revs drop or spike quickly, this can potentially cause more wear. You can readjust the pushrod to make the bite point a bit higher (see if that makes the transition smoother), and don't forget to check for the correct pedal free play distance.
@Viosified absolutely legend still replied till this day! 🙌 the shifts are actually very smooth I just don't know if bring the revs down with the clutch is really a bad thing. Also my pedal is almost even with the brake pedal and I believe stock clutch pedal height is way above the brake pedal but I like the shorter feel of the clutch pedal.
@@ivangalvan2760 I prefer a short pedal stroke as well. It's normal for the engine revs to drop when changing gears, especially during upshifting, this is because higher gears require lower engine speeds for the same road speed. As long as your shifts are smooth & you’re not experiencing any jerking or rough engagement, your current setup is okay. 🙂👍
@@Viosified I have a Yaris 1.0 it jerks when starting and also when releasing the throttle sometimes difficulty starting no faults no warning lights on every time I clean the throttle body it gets better but there is always the same problem
@@shahriarmohamadi6663have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor yet? if you haven't done so, here's a tutorial on how to do it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6xi5OLAuldA.htmlsi=ZumSS0eOuy56rXA_
I'd check for misaligned, worn, or damaged shifter linkage. Problems with the hydraulic system or a worn clutch (if MT); internal gearbox issues (worn synchros, gears, bearings); low, dirty, or incorrect transmission fluid; a malfunctioning shift interlock mech (if AT); physical obstructions/binding in the shift linkage, etc.. In a pinch, sometimes it releases if you try rocking the car, pressing the clutch (or brake) fully, & turning the engine off before attempting to shift again. Even if you are able to release it you need to have it checked/fixed as soon as possible.
If my cluch is to the floor and i just barly let out and i mean barly its already grabbing its like my cluch dont fully diss ingauge when i change gears do i need to make the push rod loner
Yes, lengthening the pushrod can help. However, adjust it in small increments & make sure not to over-adjust it, as this can cause the clutch to disengage too late. Also, don't forget to set the proper pedal freeplay & test drive your car to make sure the bite point is correct & the gears don't grind when you shift.
Yes, if you're facing the clutch pedal. But, if you're facing the side of the pushrod and looking at it from the perspective of the camera, it's counterclockwise (at least that's how I see it). But regardless of personal perspectives, as long as you are able to loosen & tighten the lock nut & adjust the pushrod to your preference then you are doing it correctly.
Excellent video. To the point. just one more question. if i raise the clutch engagement point, will this also raise the clutch relase point? I mean when the pedal is fully pressed and i start to relase it, the point when the clutch starts engaging, that will also be highter after raising the cluch engagement point?
Thanks! Yes, raising the clutch engagement point will also raise the clutch release point. Lengthening the push rod will make the clutch engage & disengage higher in the pedal travel.
I got a 2003 350z recently and it grinds in 2nd and 3rd gear and when I push in clutch and rev it grinds bad bad so I don’t do it. When I went into reverse (push down and right then down) it popped out of gear? It grinded real bad I had to reengage reverse for it to back. Assuming it’s the tranny but I’m new to Nissan
The grinding in 2nd & 3rd gear & the tranny popping out of reverse could be caused by worn synchros, a faulty or improperly adjusted clutch, low or incorrect transmission fluid, damaged gear teeth or bearings, or issues with the shift linkage. Your mechanic should be able to check the transmission fluid level & quality, clutch engagement, inspect the shift linkage for alignment & other components.
@@Viosified hmmm interesting ok because the previous owner claimed they did change the clutch and the issue is relatively inconsistent except for the shifting part so maybe they didn’t adjust the clutch properly?
@@thedebumdum8268 yes, that is possible (if the issues have been going on for a while damage to other components is also a possibility). In the meantime, you can try adjusting the clutch pedal bite point and see if that helps. Here's a link on how to do that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4yahxd28Ctg.htmlsi=_p7MeY2bMCkocKxm
Shifting gears without using the clutch could result to significant damage to the synchros, linkage, gear teeth, or transmission bearings. If the clutch & flywheel is worn out it can cause clutch slippage or failure which could immobilize your car.
Thanks so much for this video. I was getting quotes for a new clutch today. The bite point on my Kia sportage clutch was so high that it was impossible to drive it smoothly. No slipping at all. Simply needed adjustment, the rod was turned way out.. I'm so relieved. Thanks again!
