Great video, and great product... I watched this video a number of times while doing my clutch kit. Once installed you will notice a nice difference in lower end torque. You will lose some top end speed, but I’d rather be quick than fast... Awesome upgrade...
Maybe. If your clutch is staying engaged and hard to shift because of weak springs then it would fix it. I would inspect and clean your clutches really good. If the clutch is worn out or all the bushings are sloppy loose then the kit wont fix it. If clutch is in good shape and clean and still having issues it might be your shifter cable/linkage is not set correctly. Once your clutches are physically in proper working order the clutch kit will give you added performance all around.
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4pwM26rOico.html I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.
atv/utv/snomwobile belts are not directional. It doesnt matter what direction they go on. Please dont spread incorrect information. I have worked with multiple belt manufacturers and not a single belt on the market is directional.
Hi Micheal, we are not spreading incorrect information??!! Most belts can run either direction. Also most belts have lettering with part numbers and an arrow on them. If you listen to any of our videos we say to run a belt so the arrow and writing on the belt are going the correct direction. Most OE and aftermarket belts have an arrow to show you the direction they want the belt to run, but more importantly its a way to keep track of the belt so if you have removed your belt and going to reinstall it, it gets installed in the same direction it was originally ran. Running the belt the same way once it has been used is important to the life of the belt.
