Do you know that there are lots of countries, for example Germany, where the mains plugs are symmetrical and nobody is able to tell where neutral and live will be connected to ? The construction of a device has to be safe, no matter where the live and where the neutral wire will be connected to. Opening up a case or changing a fuse without disconnecting a device from mains is not recommended IMHO. Otherwise, of course if Yihua is supplying countries with definite positions of live and neutral, it should obey the regulations of that countries or even better use IEC receptables in their cases.
I'm probably going to get the KA3005D. I can go cheaper and get a switch mode psu. But I'd rather have something that will last me longer. Do you still have this supply? Does it still work or has it given you problems? Thanks.
I set this for 30v 0amp it reads cv so i connect to my 12v battery I am desufating then i adj amps to 2.amp it switches to ca and the voltage drops to what the battery is at 12.01 What amp I doing wrong thanks
STUPID DESIGN - THERE IS NO CUT-OFF BUTTON!!! You turn it on and it's live on the terminals, so you have to turn it on, set the voltage/current, then turn it off, plug things in and turn it back on again. Whoever thought this was a good design... Definitely was someone who wasn't planning on using it!
Oh my, clumsy alarmclock interface :/ Why does not any brand create an easy to use voltage/current setting with encoder and proper number cycling acceleration!
thank you for your video. I've had this PS for about 5 years and have always been confused about how to set constant current vs. constant voltage. The manual that comes with it is very terse on the subject so your video made it clear how to use these.
I have the same oscilloscope and i have an issue where it constantly displays a voltage even when the nodes aren't attached to anything. Does anybody know how to fix that?
I have the same oscilloscope and i have an issue where it constantly displays a voltage even when the nodes aren't attached to anything. Does anybody know how to fix that?
I have this unit and have been using it for years. The safety mod was done years ago. But I'm wonder if anyone else has done a mod, using an Arduino or ESP32 to add a little LCD to be able to add an auto off function? I've been lazy and haven't done it yet, but it's something I really need to do. I tend to be using it, then to get called away, forgetting to turn off the unit. LOL Needless to say, this isn't good for tips or heater elements. I wish that I could get a schematic for this thing, because a more major mod would be to remove the digital LEDs and replace with a pretty Nextion display that would display everything that's there now, as well as the auto shutdown feature and perhaps an hours counter.... other features as I think of them. So I'm curious if anyone has done any major mods to this unit?
Thnx for details video. Sir I go through several video. But yet I did not get its complete specification. Sir can you plz share its complit specification ?? 1st tell me its min. & Max input votage. And min. & Max input frequency. ? Thnx in advance.
Great video! Much more thorough than many of the other similar videos. I'm currently using a Wraith Prism, and trying to decide if the looks of a Wraith Prism (hey cases have windows these days for a reason!) are worth the performance I'm giving up if I moved to something from Noctua... and I think the +200 MHz or so may not be worth giving up the looks. (and when I'm using the CPU at full blast, my environment is OK with the noise) Also, thanks for calling out the RPM of the Wraith Prism fan. Many reviews just say "stock" fan, ignoring that there's a high/low hardware speed switch on it. (~3800 RPM high/~2800 low).
I purchased one of these and used it several times until it failed. I opened it, and the fuse housing was broken. I will replace the fuse housing and rewire it according to your video. My question is: What is the correct AMP for these stations since there is no marking in the station itself?
Hi, i have the same unit as you do. But the brand name my unit has is Zeny. I need a replacement soldering iron. Do you know where i can find one. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
I tinker with small electronics. Arduino included. Would this be ok for an Elenco diy radio kit? A scope and audio generator is recommended for fine tuning the radio. I was interested in building one with a Nano but then I saw this kit.
I have the same station. I need replacement tips for the soldering iron. Do you know where i can find them. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
I have the same station. I need replacement tips for the soldering iron. Do you know where i can find them. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
The Wraith Prism is much better built and is more robust as the AMD cooler uses thicker stamped steel and more robust plastics. I guess what everything all comes down to is that it depends on how much overclocking the person intends to do and if they are always testing out new hardware daily or weekly. For my intentions the Wraith Prism is a pretty good cooler and does what it was meant to achieve: some decent overclocking but not heavy overclocking capability and have a solid build quality.
Hello there thank you for your good video I want to ask is there a sleep mode in the soldering iron section of this product and how many watts is the soldering iron section?
Hello there thank you for your good video I want to ask is there a sleep mode in the soldering iron section of this product and how many watts is the soldering iron section?
Master , l appreciate all your lectures on DSO Scope because l have it. Butpls Master, teach me more on how to use it on things like ... checking the oscillating/ driving signals in smps pwm ICs , Smart TVs scallar boards, TCON board or video signals.... urgently needed Master 🙏. I have no attenuator. Can l add higher value Meg resistor, like 5 to 10 Meg to the testing probe? to steady the triggering amplitude ???
This would only come into play if we are talking about Liquid Metal solutions. Almost all CPU thermal compound sold these days is non electrically conductive as they use silicone oil as the carrier. The only conductive ones I can think of off the top of my head are thermal epoxies and they are permanent. Even ones like "arctic silver" are non conductive, because while they contain silver, the particles are so spread out and separated by dielectric (such as silicone oil), that current cannot flow freely through them. Anyway, hope this helps!
You have now 489 subscribers including me. I have a JYE TECH mini oscilloscope. I used on my 2 way. Since then my screen works. All buttons, reset. Etc. I can't get a signal and digital readout shows negative? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia
The DSO138 (and the smaller DSO128 "Mini") has an easy to fix issue where the waveform can look a little bad with high input signals. Voltage divider R6, R7, R8 are a bit too low and put a little too much load on the output of U2B. All you have to do is increase them by ten times (use 1% resistors). This works fine because the voltage divider feeds the high impedance non-inverting input of U2C.
Good gravy THANK YOU! I've made ionic silver forever with a generator and recently decided to get fancy. I was saying very very VERY bad words in the Korad's general direction. Thanks for dumbing this down. My brain was over thinking ALL the knobs. Also the instructions that come with it are pretty bad. Thank you ♥️♥️♥️
Lol, I bought this to start my colloidal silver journey and I have a degree in electronics and it was confusing. Seems like a great machine from all the reviews. Would you mind me asking you? Do you change your v&c settings on different batches to get different ppm’s or do you have a standard you go with. I ask because I have heard at lower current, you generate smaller particles. Not sure if that is true. I was always taught that the longer it runs, the larger the particles because the start sticking together.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. On my device, the two solder connections that are looped together in your photo and provide the square wave, are not connected to anything. I bought mine assembled. Is there a connection missing?
Glad the video was helpful. The assembler may have decided not to add the calibration loop, as they may have pre-calibrated the unit. If the holes are there and just missing the wire, you could potentially just add it yourself. Or, it's possible that the newer revisions of the DSO138 no longer have this as a feature. I'm not sure how many revisions there have been since I made this video all those years ago!
