@billydean3068 if I understand the question. Let's say you are working on the left side fender. The top closest to the door will need to be shimmed up or the front of the fender needs to go down. Fender Shims can be used to tilt the fender to close the gap. Some fenders due to parts for frame not straight might need to weld to fill the gap. But if all good parts shims should work.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Thanks, yes I understand all that, but I noticed your hinge is not like mine on my 1958 with the spring being attached to the inner fender. I have my Rad support all the way down with no shims. Everything is level hood cowl cab but I lack being able to move the fender counter clockwise. Nose down. I finally today removed the hood and detached the spring from the inner fender so I can move the inner fender with the outer together. We will see.
It's just a common timing problem from dropping or rough use. The screws that hold the rail on need removed. Remove the shoe. Turn the reversing switch to the middle the gear will have a timing mark. Position the pistons into center stroke. Put the shoe back carefully. Centering the shoe with the pistons and reversing valve. Tighten the screws to let the shoe slide freely, but very little play. Remember that it only can jump time when the rails flex or are loose. Will have full function and power, until it gets dropped or banged again. Because of the weight it doesn't have to drop very far.
I have a 1980 FXEF (fat-bob super glide) I bought new in 1980. I took off the electric start like in 84 and now want to put back on (story short). Do you have a video on complete installation? Or replacing replacing the starter on the other side? Also I believe the 1980 FXE had a shorter starter motor than other models? Any help is good this video helps on the primary side. I made this short for now hoping to hear from you, thanks Wayne
I recently bought a bug that has a 1776 with dual 34 ict carbs like yours and it definitely isn’t jetted correctly. I haven’t been able to find a chart with recommended jet sizes. Can you get me pointed in the right direction?
Did you end up having to do anything with your pump spill jets? Reading through the link you sent and he shows a picture of it, but doesn’t make any recommendations. Mine are stamped with 40. Maybe they are already okay?
hello I write to you from Colombia. I have a 1954 Chevy Bel Air with a powerglide transmission and aftermaket steering column. I'm looking for a kit like this one on eBay or Amazon but they all seem to not be compatible with the powerglide transmission? Could you advise me and give me a reference that would help me?
i am working on a 1957 now and the driver door is off and what you just said and showed me should help me greatly thank you for your video . i wish i lived near you so you could help me with it.. thank you for all the info Great video.. The blue paint job on your truck is what i want to do on the one i have also i love it it because my grandfather had a 51 that color.. i want to honor him by doing mine like it Thanks again
I agree with other commenters, excellent tutorial. I do have one question nobody ever seems to address, “What stops rear corners of hood from scratching inside edge of fenders while opening/closing?”
I can think of a few things. My best guesses are. (1) When you close the hood slowly, your hood hindge should hold the rear of the hood up off the fenders and drop it down at the end. Sometimes you see people push down on the hood because it does not drop down all the way. If not look at the hindges and springs. (2) There are two adjustable hood bumpers/stops on the top of the firewall one on each side. These can be adjusted to hold the back of the hood up at the right hight. These should be adjusted so the hood rest on them. There are also other rubber bumpers running down the side and front of the hood to protect the hood to fender contact. (3)Fender alighment could be set to high. links below shows what the bumpers look like. Adjustable hood bumper: classicparts.com/1955-59-hood-adjuster-bolt-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx_xi4SALDmcofQvmTk6VThtC6nrUv-j-OOu10tqFeb4ipxyWGmttxhoCa0YQAvD_BwE Hood pumpers: classicparts.com/1955-57-hood-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx9sVBoOx7zc8YMVQRQiFiD_P_W-6wi43UYjjLerIuCZwxRLyQNsGmRoCoOkQAvD_BwE
I do have the vowel hood bumpers adjusted all the way down and the hood to fender bumpers installed. I tried after market hinges but they had a couple of incorrect dimensions that did not permit hood to close. I used new springs on old hinges but hood for not appear to lift before opening. I did find a crack in drivers side hood bracket that I’ll fix and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas.
@des5779 Question if the hood was set in place without the hindges. Does the hood sit right without hitting anything. It should sit on the bumpers and not hit.
Yes, it does sit on the bumpers and not hitting when closed. The back corners do not appear to raise when opening, therefore the hood corners drag the fenders because the fender angle narrows forward.
@des5779 from hood latched down mine sits flush. If I raise it to the first latch, the front raises, and the back tilts slightly but does not hit anything. If I raise the hood to the top of the latch the back starts to lift with the front. Lift from there the back lifts 1/2" to clear the frnders. Part of how the hinges works. If the back is not lifting, I seen when the hinges are sitting to low, not allowing the hinge to lift or lower the hood back end when opening or closing. For me, the point this happens is where the hood sits on top of the hood latch. Before the safety or lock. Raze it from there the back lifts with the front. Lower it below that point and the back should lower. It's about 1/2" of movement. This is what keeps the back of the hood from hitting the back of the fenders. Hope thus helps.
I wish youtube and your video was online to see 30 years back when I rebuilt my truck! Rest assured your video will save a ton of cussin' and lost patients! Great video and killer 3100!!
My problem is aftermarket doors and the vent window wont fit. I'm going to try and grind off the rivets holding the vent window in the frame and see if I can get it too slide in.
I had an issue with an aftermarket door, so I rebuilt the original. The aftermarket looked good but was smaller than the original. The work to fix it was more than fixing the door I had.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Mine doors and windows were too far gone. I prehung the doors and got the gaps right before paint. Now I'm putting in the windows and the door frame upper window bends at a different angle. I think I can get it to work grinding and making a u bracket to hold it in the channel. My last option is a 1 piece window with glass cut from my template.
I Like your videos sir. But u should also focus on thumbnail and video editing like adding background music and cool swift edits to grow May b I can edit your thumbnail and videos
Due I used tci ifs and changes the rear axle and 4 link. I had to have custom wheel offset done. Unless you did the same as mine, my offset/backspace would not work for you.
Bought this kit for my 59. The back wall piece fits like crap. They sewed the velcro on to the narrow edge which I believe is supposed to be placed at the top (wide edge at bottom). Can't even put velcro up that high. Will have to cut bottom edge to bring it down. Same for you or no problem?
I didn't use the velcro. I used heavy-duty snaps to hold it in place to the lip under the window. Did not have to cut the bottom. I put speakers on each side, so I had to cut the sides to fit where I put the speakers.
so glad your video was here ! I'm an old 76 FXE owner who has a friend that just purchased a nice old 80 Shovelhead ... his 1st Shovelhead and he's having starter drive gear problems. He's had Sportsters they were '57 & '59, I know still old skool, but completely different animals...and doesn't believe this old girl is tellin' him the truth... its not that big of a deal to replace the gear... and how to do it... (I was taught well and learned tons paying attention)... After watching your video... he learned a lot ! .... on my 18th birthday I received that sweet baby ! Believe me if any thing was repaired or replaced I was a participant. Today she has less than 45,000 miles, and everything is still original, but I've retired her and I ride an '03 Dyna today... thx a ton... appreciate you
I sold the bus last year but worked great. It's much better than stock. I tried the stock and they only lasted 6 months changes to these and no issues for 3 years.
If I understand your question right. The steering bars have room to slide in the couplers giving you room to put it all together. You fit them together so the bars fit inside the couplers without hitting when turning the steering wheel and tighten up everything. If everything is set right you can turn the steering wheel without binding. The slack is in side the couplers about half an inch. This allows you to put it together. But if you push the bars in too much they will bind inside the couplers.
I am using these connectors for an LS swap but in the back of my mind i worry the heat of the engine bay might warm the solder up and cause me problems down the line Now that your swap is running have you had any issues like this?
No issued but I did rap any wires with heat shield that were close to the exhaust. Protecting any wires or connectors from the exhaust heat. Only spot I thought would get hot enough to do any damage. No issued just protect any wiring that runs near the exhaust, and you should be good.
@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 thanks for replying, that gives me confidence! I've been putting standard heatshrink over these to increase the stability, then electrical tape, then tesa tape, then heat shielding near exhaust etc so hopefully I'll be all good! Great vids and awesome ride, by the way!
After I bolted everything together, I had just enough room to use 90 degree hoses cut to lenght and couplers to tie them together. One of the top hose coupler has a steam port adapter needed for the LS. I used 3 90 on top cut to fit with 2 couplers and just 1 90 on bottom.
Weird I have had mine for over a year. I use it everyday and absolutely no issues. Just skim off any water condensate once a month and bam she is good. Maybe I just got lucky and got a good one. I love how quiet it is. Definitely agree it could be improved but so far I’m happy. If any of you guys need any help or tips on these units, let me know.
Mine were the first and second versions. They have a new version as they fix issues in the newer models. So far, 4 years and three replacements units. I have two years on the last replacement and it still collects water in the oil and draining the water helps. But remember, this is a fix for an issue of the unit collecting water in the oil. I have helped Eastwood on many issues due to being an early buyer of the units and reporting back on issues. They just released a new on-off pressure switch for the units. I have gone through two before getting the new switch. Eastwood is providing it for free if you have an issue with the on/off pressure switch. The new units already have this fix. As I find and report issues back to Eastwood I also post so others that have or are going to buy will know. I like the units, but I am still concerned about the damage the water might cause that is in the oil. I have one year left on the warrent. Hope this helps.
The all-thread idea is genius. I mocked mine up using a wire coat hanger but I'm going to grab some all thread tomorrow and test fit everything before I cut\bend my SS rod. Thank you!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and skill in your video's, I'm looking to do the same hydroboost conversion. My question is, did you have any issues with your mustang II rack needing a reduction to 700-800 psi from your power steering pump and the hydro boost needing 1200 psi? I was told by heidts tech line, that any psi pressure over 850 psi would blow the seals on my Mustang II rack. I currently have the washer and spring kit as well as the flow reduction valve in my pump to lower the psi to 800 and gpm for my rack. Cpp tech line told me the hydro boost will not run correctly with that low of psi. Do you have any suggestions or good or bad experiences regarding this issue? Thanks again!
True, it will not run correctly, as I found out. I did have to go to a higher psi flow restrictor to make it work. Go with what ccp tells you. I have had no issues with my rack. Now my rack came from TCI IFS kit. But I don't think it's any different than stock. Maybe because the flow goes to the hydroboost first but no issues as of today, and I have about 3000 miles on this setup so far. Stops great also. 👍
Hey Old Man, great informative video. I have a single port carb on my '70 Ghia right now and am debating whether to go with 1x dual port, 2x single port, or 2x dual port. Is there any specific reason you went with the 2x single ports?
It's all based on the size of your motor. Mine is stock, so it only needed the size carbs I put on. You can go too big or too small. It is best to match the carbs to your motor. CB or others that sell these kits will let you know what best fits your motor. If yours is stock, this kit will wake up your motor for less $$$.
Hello, I am also interested in the carriage bolt repair kit. I have a few nuts that are welded in place where the slider nuts should be.. Do you know who sales these bolt repair kits.
