My name is Nick, I hope my videos help you with your car repair needs, and hopefully save you some money. I started my journey as a Jaguar mechanic in 1966. I've worked on Jaguars such as: XK120s, XK140s, E TYPES, MARK 5s, MARK 9s, MARK 10s, 420Gs, XJ6s, MARK 1s, MARK 2s / 240s / 340s, S TYPES, 420s and including most later Jaguars.
I have imported, worked on, and sold American vehicles including Mustangs, Corvettes, Trams Ams / Firebirds, Camaros, Buick Grand Nationals, and Challengers, etc. Also Detamaso Pantera / Longchamp, Matra-Bagheera / Murena.
Other vehicles I've had the pleasure to work on and own: Mini's, Rolls-Royce Silver Shadows, etc.
If you have any requests please ask away, I will try my best to respond with an easy-to-follow video or further advice. This is a new and growing channel, so stay tuned and enjoy.
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi, my car has the driver lock not locking or unlocking on the fob but works central locking manually. Trying to validate replacement actuator pt no. for non keyless. Bob
@@crystalclearmechanics I manually pull or push the door lock (inside) and others door lock or open, on key fob other doors open and lock but not drivers hence locking mechanism motors are faulty.
@@robertgoodney-ii4tp Hi , If you go on E-bay and type in search bar MaxipartsUK you will go to their site then type in jaguar XF drivers door actuator you can get one for £23.99 The last one I changed came from them and is still working ok. If you want a Jaguar one phone a Jaguar main agent with your reg no. Some main agents refuse to give out part numbers without purchase. I do have an old XF one but cannot find a part number on it, the only visable number on it is Z400356.00 not sure what that refers too.
I was doing my Fathers car and the pin did not line up ,any ideas?Don't know what was done before why the pins don't line up. Was going to use paint and lock it but wondered if you had any idea what I could do to put it right?. Thanks
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi,the 2.2 diesel engine.I took Starter out and the plastic surround and put the pin in and the cam pin is about a tooth out but the engine runs fine. Am a bit stuck on what to do .Do i take the top off and check the cam chain
Did mine last month using your guide, 2015 model. Only issue I had was getting the crankshaft bolt out because of the limited access. I ended up taking off the radiator fan (2 bolts and a electrical connection) to give me more space. I owe you a beer, many thanks.
Hi Gary, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The threadlock Jaguar use on their crankshaft bolts make them hard to undo up to the last thread almost but I am glad you found my guide useful. Thanks again.
This is truly gold information…. Plus a repair tip. Seriously I’m so happy you have made this video. My XF 2.2 has been giving me the same fault code only I’ve left it. Now I want to check if it’s this spring. Amazing stuff thank you.
Thank you so much. My local garage just pulled off the piston yesterday and confirmed the spring was broken and that it would cost £800 all in to repair. I lost my job last year and had to replace the pads and disks recently so you don't know how relieved I am to find this fix. I've got a piece of metal I can make the bracket out of. Just need to find a spring.
I got an aftermarket fuel filter which is for my 2013 jag xf the one im taking off is exactly the same as the one you show in this video. The replacement looks identical apart from it does not have the aditional screwcap which you remove to prime the filter. My question is can i still prine the filter by connecting a hose to one of the inlet pipes and pouring diesel via a funnel to fill the filter. I dont have any additional pumps or anything so could i do it this way? If so how would i know it is full, do i need to remove all the caps first ect to prevent air blockage etc Cheers. Great video by the way very simple to follow
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you can prime the fuel filter the way you said, it's probably easier to fit it on the car remove the caps fit your pipe and funnel and fill until it comes out the other side then connect the fuel lines.
@@crystalclearmechanics thanks for your reply so do I need to fill both the low pressure and high pressure sides, is there a preference as to which pipe I use to prime it up or will any do. Should I do this before refitting any of the pipes or refit pipes after it's full.
@@soulfulshoes Hi, if you stand in front of the car looking at the engine the pipe connections on the left of the fuel filter are fuel return pipes so don't worry about whether they are connected or not. It's best to connect your pipe and funnel to the pipe connection on the right and nearest the front of the car leaving the pipe the opposite side open.
Hi, I've got an issue with the gauge readings not being accurate on my 2.2, usually sticking at around half full, so I'm guessing I need to replace the sender unit, do you know where I can find the part number for this?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.The electric plugs on top of the tank do suffer with corrosion so best check those first. The float unit can be purchased from the Jaguar main agents and it slots in the side of the swirl pot, I think the price was just over £100. If you give Jaguar your reg No they should be able to give you the part number and the price.
Hello Sir, First of all, thank you very much for making these Jaguar videos as there is not a lot of data on these Jaguar XF & other cars. I just bought a Jag XF X250 2015 2.2 diesel, but now it's giving me a p0087 code, which means "Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low". Any idea where to start diagnosis? In tank fuel pump, diesel filter or high pressure fuel pump? Do these vehicles have fuel pressure regulator if so location of it might be helpful please? Any guidance is appreciated :)
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Can you tell me the symptoms and what led to the issue, did the engine cut out while driving, did it not start one day, did you run out of fuel any history would help. I will describe the fuel system for you. The tank pump lifts and recirculates the fuel into the swirl pot (the plastic yellow / orange unit in my video) creating a suction that transfers fuel across the tanks keeping correct levels, the fuel float fits on the side of the swirl pot. The low pressure pump is integral (fits on the back of the high pressure pump, top back of engine.) to the high pressure pump and sucks fuel from the tank through the fuel filter etc to the high pressure pump then into the fuel rail then injectors. The pressure control valve (PCV) is located on the rear of the fuel rail. To give advise I need to know as much as possible and then go from there. Thanks.
@crystalclearmechanics it was having a hard time starting, but it was still starting, so i thought it might be a low battery voltage issue, so i took for a nice long drive on the way back to the home after a 70km trip engine light came on, steering got hard as engine cut out so no steering pump i believe, engine system fault came up on the screen & it died. I managed to pull it on to the side. Scanned the code on my obd scanner it came back as P0087 "low rail fuel pressure." I don't think i ran out of diesel unless my fuel float is faulty. I suspected it might be a diesel fuel filter (black filter under the hood), but it seems like my in tank pump is not even pumping anything to the fuel filter when i took the feed line off from the filter. My in tank pump do spins though. Questions: 1. On the front of the rail is your fuel pressure sensor, right? 2. The back of the rail is PCV (pressure control valve, right? 3. Where is the high-pressure fuel pump located? Any other fuel system components than in-tank float/filter, black fuel filter, high pressure fuel pump, PCV, fuel pressure sensor, rail, injectiors? I'm in New Zealand so bit hard to find parts as well.
@@kumarsonu4848 Hi, yes the fuel pressure sensor is in the front of the fuel rail and the pcv is on the back. The high pressure fuel pump is on the top and back of engine, the low pressure fuel pump is integral (on the back of the high pressure fuel pump) and sucks the fuel from the tank through the fuel filter to the high pressure pump. The tank pump does not pump fuel to the fuel filter hence you don't get any fuel through when taking the pipe off the fuel filter. The cheapest and easiest job is to change the fuel filter ( I have a video about changing it ) You can also check your fuel gauge reading is correct ( the sender unit in the tank can cause problems, also the electrical plugs on top of the tank do corrode, problems usually occur at half a tank full or less) Fill the tank full of fuel and see if the problem goes away when it is full. Let me know. By the way, not sure what year your car is or whether NZ cars are affected but disconnecting the battery can cause loss of central locking on some XF cars.
@crystalclearmechanics thank you. So essentially, there are three pumps, one in tank, one high pressure fuel pump & one low pressure that is integrated within high pressure that sucks the fuel out of tank instead of in tank pump pumping it towards to the filter. Yes, i am going to change the filter & but i have managed to bypass the filter & still no luck. It is sitting at approximately half a tank as well. I haven't disconnected the battery yet & kept it charged all the time, so I'm not sure about central locking. But I'm thinking of doing a fuel pressure test (do you know the default fuel pressure in the system? How many psi?) . Will fill up the tank and see how that goes. Then, look into the injectors, rail, sensor & PCV.
A good video but be aware on 2013 & 2014 models it is likely your central locking will no longer work after disconnecting battery, as with mine, many people also reporting engine wont start, had been quoted £650 for reprogramming. Bought jlr sdd software off ebay (£60 ) & done myself finally after many hours. A cheap diy cambelt change turned out to be a nightmare.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 2.7 / 3.0 engines have 5 injections of fuel per stroke as I stated in my video, 2 pre injections 1 injection on firing and 2 injections after firing. The main cause of failure is the 5 injections and driving style but 3 injections which = 18 fuel injections per full engine cycle are also enough to cause engine oil dilution. The 2 after stroke injections are relevant only to the DPF (as I understand it) What you should justify is why only a small amount of these engines fail in comparison to the number still on the road without issue. Engines as I stated fail for a number of reasons but when Jaguar admit to an engine oil dilution problem it's worth listening.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Could you verify that your car is the 2.2 diesel Jaguar and also the issue you had with the car and the reason you changed the fuel pump?
Hi, my engine is stuck solid, I am unable to rotate it to get to the torque converter. Any suggestions please? I wish I saw this video before embarking on my engine transplant project! Cheers
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Let me know which car your working on? The reason I leave the torque converter in the gearbox is to save space when moving the engine forward to get clearance and to save on gearbox fluid leaking from the torque converter. The easiest way if your engine is solid is to remove the engine with the torque converter still attached to the driveplate / flywheel, the torque converter just slides out of the gearbox as you move the engine forward, you may need to tilt the engine when lifting for clearance or remove the radiator. Try and keep the gearbox level with the engine (a jack under the gearbox) when seperating from the gearbox also plug the torque converter as soon as you can to stop anything getting in it.When the engine is out you will be able to dismantle it until you can turn it to remove the torque converter. You will need to fit a new torque converter seal in the gearbox and I would then slide the torque converter back into the gearbox ready for the engine to be fitted. I am guessing but to clear the torque converter you will need about 3 to 5 inches more clearance on forward space. I will keep looking at my messages so if you need any more advise please let me know.
My sons rare VX55 pre production XK has this fault in hot weather (rare in Glasgow) or after the engine bay heats up so after seeing your video he bought the parts but when we went about fitting them his car already has these newer sensors fitted and the guide and bolt holes are vertical and not horizontal like your car so assume before the XK went into full production Jaguar changed the design and opted for the sensors you've replaced. BTW I would recommend two people doing this job one laying across the engine from each side as very difficult to see what your doing and anyone without women's arms will get them torn to shreds.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. use the starter motor bolts (2) but you will need to get 2 nuts to fit the bolts, it's a little awkward fitting the nuts to the bolts so get free moving not locking ones so you can spin them on the threads until finishing with spanners to tighten properly.
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi again, thank u for your reply, managed to complete it today, was a right chore to undo crank bolt, only managed with 4 ft scaffold tube. The problem I now have is car starts but no central locking, I am told if battery is disconnected it will need a Immobilizer Reset with an SDD tool or other, not mentioned in your video, is this correct?
@@richardpomery7215 Hi Richard, I can only apologise I thought I had given that advise, I've checked the video and you are correct I did not. I will try and add that advise to the video if possible so thanks for making me aware. I know it's a bit late but my experience with this central locking issue is that a few of the 2013 / 2014 and registered 2.2 2015 cars can have this issue when the battery is disconnected or depleted, the 2011 and 2012 cars I have worked on have not had the issue. It is not a problem to get it reprogrammed and should not be expensive. The crank bolt is usually tight until it is almost out due to the threadlock used. Yes I use a 4ft scaffold tube sometimes as well. Glad you got the belt done.
I’m sure how to reply on my comment and to your reply. However you ask if the engine was also damaged. Unfortunately the dealership have been told by Land Rover Technical that they are unable to confirm if the engine is damaged until all the replacements are done and more compression tests are done. So I have no idea. I’ve asked for the compression tests that have already been done as well as the oil results and been told they can’t supply these until they have spoken to the head office 🤔🤷♀️
Hi Debra, let me know what they diagnose. They are correct the DPF should not have caused the turbo failure. The oil dilution occurs because of extra fuel injected into the cylinders, 2 of those 5 injections are to aid the heating of the DPF so is relevant to the DPF system but the DPF and cat are after the turbo so should not affect it. The engine oil dilution applies to the earlier diesel engines 2.2 / 2.7 / 3.0 not sure if it applies to the 2ltr as I have not read the relevant information yet but I would assume they run the same system.
Hi Kenneth, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It depends if you want the unit complete or not. Used it should be £40 to £70, the float part which is usually the problem is about £120 new. Make sure you check the electrical plug connections first as these do corrode.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for your reply - i found the fuel pump only at a jaguar main dealer for over 400£ i thought that was quite a lot for a fuel pump but anyway - just got a call this morning from the mechanic and the car is working fine now - but initially I ran out of diesel because the indicator was not working and then it would not start up - I thought it might be high pressure fuel pump but it wasn’t keep up the great videos
You Sir, are a God send! Engine management light came on, OBD2 and phone app told me told me the EGR code, watched your video which allowed me to identify it was indeed the return spring which had failed. Followed your steps, cleared code, went for a long drive 😊 you saved me £££s - Thank you.
Just for your information and future viewers,. It is not called the coaxial cable, Its actually called the optical cable. Informative video though. Nice of you to share.
Are you able to share this. My 2020 2lt has blow its turbo killing by throwing oil and metal into the dpf & cat. I’ve been told it’s absolutely nothing to do with the dpf by the dealership and now being ask to prove this has happened due to the design fault 🤷♀️ cars done 37k service in accordance to the manufacturer guide as I had absolutely no idea of any of this when I purchased it from the dealership. Out of warranty now and JLR have said jog on and Dick Lovett said I have to prove the design issue. So why the hell has my turbo blown?
Hi Debra, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Sorry to hear about the problems with your car. It's not uncommon for the 2ltr turbos to fail, proving the cause of failure after it's happened is difficult if at all possible. It should not have failed with such a low mileage and Jaguar service history but saying that does not really help. Has the engine suffered damage or is it just the turbo / cat / DPF?
Same noise 2.7 TDV6 LR today advised it’s injector knock - an injector that’s dribbling some fuel and not atomising it - I agree as I placed a stethoscope on the right hand top side timing cover and could hear the noise.
When I have a low battery issue on ANY of our European vehicles here in the states........and I need to change the battery, ......I ALWAYS connect a jump box to the battery cables coming from the box.........then I install the new battery making sure the vehicle NEVER loses power at any point. This has always worked and I've avoided all sorts of problems on our Jaguar XK and especiallly our Touaregs. I make the switch from jumper box to the NEW battery .......only removing the jumper box the very second I have the new battery connected.
Great helpful video with a thorough explanation, thank you. Can anyone offer advice. I have just bought a second hand jag with this issue. The seller (Sheffield Motors) has kindly offered to supply the replacement part. But after seeing this video, is it worth his trouble? Is it easy to replace the Unit or a bit of a pain? Personally I would like the car as it should be, but I’m also pragmatic? Thanks.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The part is expensive new or used unless you are lucky and can locate one cheaply. If it's being offered at no cost to you, I would take it. If you take your time and follow my video ( Jaguar XF 2.2 EGR valve unit removal ) it's not difficult too replace but you could accept the part in case needed at a later date and do the quick fix anyway. you can't lose either way. Thanks again for watching.
Brilliant, that sounds like a plan. I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I’m relieved the slightly cheaper price I paid for the car is staying that way for the time being 🙂 Because you sound like such a Jaguar expert 🙂are the powered struts easy to replace on a SportBack? I can see mechanically it looks very straight forward but I’m assuming I have to remove the boot lining to get to the electrics? I can not find any videos. The soft buttons on the boot do not work either but I have heard a spray of WD may solve that if I can get to it? The rear wiper doesn’t work either 😂 but I can live with that but using my neck to keep the boot open I can’t 😬
Hi Graham, the pump has a big warning sticker left on it and another that is unreadable but that's it. I found it in the boot of a car that i purchased so don't know it's origin.
Hi Gary, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The video shows the main cause of engine failure in the Jaguars which is engine oil dilution, I quoted the oil dilution issue from the Jaguar workshop manual. The LR side can and do suffer with this issue. When a crankshaft snaps it usually involves other factors unless you are saying that every 2.7-3.0 ltr JLR diesel engine has failed for that reason and they have not, there are millions of these vehicles still on the road without issue. If something snaps it usually snaps at it's weakest point or where other factors are present at that point ( similar to a con rod snapping, other factors are usually involved ), it does not show the cranshafts on a whole as being ridiculously weak ( manufacturing problems on some could be an issue ). I have not had one of these engines in with a snapped crankshaft ( destroyed bottom ends but crankshafts not snapped ) so lack the experience of checking out other factors that may have caused the crankshaft to snap ( worn / spun shells, seizure, oil pump failure / oil dilution etc etc ).
Good comment and good reply. The hdi engine which was also in the Citroën C6 had the crankshaft revised, in around 2009 maybe but not sure. So for what I have learned in this video the revision has been done to compensate for the bad lubrication, very intersseting thanks.
is it necessary to reprogram anything before the fix works properly? My new lock locks, but then sets the alarm off again when I open the door. Many thanks - your guide allowed me to dismantle and reassemble within two hours.
Hi Graham, you should not have to reprogram anything after fitting the new actuator. Did the alarm activate before replacing the actuator or is it since.
Thanks for the vid, was reminding myself if there was anything else - doing this again, replaced a bulb last year and now doing the other. IMPORTANT: the long plastic skinny end of your light cluster can break easily, there are a ton of people who post about those snapping off, so once you undo the bolts and are trying to wiggle the whole light cluster free, go very slow and careful, and you can tap from the inside gently to get it to move, you don't want to put any pressure on that corner toward the front of the car. Hope this helps. Cheers
I was going to fix the head gasket and lucky found your detailed video. I have no words to say thank you. please upload more informative and detailed videos like that so people can learn more from you expertise and experience, You are a best teacher I can say, I wish I was your student, Many many thanks to you with higher respect. Sydney,Australia .
Hi, thank you for watching and for your complimentary feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " You will see the main cause of major engine failure with these engines, although it refers to UK cars and the DPFs which amount to 5 fuel injections per cylinder per stroke, without the DPF fitted as standard there would still be 3 fuel injections per cylinder per stroke which could cause engine oil dilution although cars sold to other countries without DPFs have reported good reliability. I recommend 5,000 mile oil and filter changes on UK cars. thanks again for watching.
5:20 - Just as an added tip, if you put the bottom bolt in first, it's just as easy to get the top bolt in. Sorry, being a dick. But still relevant and factually correct.
Hi. Thanks for sharing your video. I think ill try and do this now rather than take to the garage. Do you need to disconnect the battery at all beforehand and is the job any different for a front left door which has the emergency key access? Many thanks.
Hi Lee, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The key lock will be removed as you remove the exterior door handle, the same process as the drivers door. I don't disconnect the battery as all the electrical connections are insulated and I don't switch the ignition on when they are disconnected. I advise you to keep seperate and mark which screws go where when you remove them, makes life a lot easier when assembling. Take your time as well, don't rush it or force anything, just follow the video, there is no time limit. Thanks again for watching and any problems let me know.
Thanks for this really helpful video, with your help I have now fixed the problem on my 2013 XF, but it didn't involve changing the lock mechanism in my case. The problem I had was due to the cable from the inner lock handle coming detached from the lock mechanism so I had to do most of the work described in the video to get at it. It turned out to be detached, as suspected, but the problem seems to have occurred due to the small casting on the end of the cable being damaged such that it could slip out of the metal latch mechanism without having to be turned to the release notch, as shown in the video. Luckily I found a way of overcoming this problem without buying a new cable or lock mechanism (not sure if the cable is available as a separate part anyway!). The normal way of connecting the cable is onto the top of the metal latch but I could see that in this case it would soon fall out again so I decided to offer it up from the underside of the metal latch which neatly holds it in place in the latch as its rubs against the plastic body of the mechanism. You do need to carefully bend the metal latch to get it to fit but it springs back in place afterwards so isn't a problem. By locating the cable in this way it ends up turning through 180 degrees so the gland at the other end of the cable still fits into the door lock pull. I hope this helps others with the same problem!
When the new pads are in place on the front discs do I pump the brake pedal before or after I replace the brake reservoir cap? Do I not need to bleed the calipers?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I always ( out of habit ) pump the brake pedal before replacing the cap but it would not affect it either way. No you do not need to bleed the calipers.
