We do automotive and general DIYs and HowTo guides as well as Tool and Tech reviews. Current project cars are a 1994 Miata (NA 1.8L) and a 2007 BMW 335i e90, N54 twin turbo.
There should just be two blue connectors. The big one goes to the main block, the slot labeled with a blue dot and the small one goes to a connector that is on the main harness, usually aboutn12 inches above the battery.
@@OGPedXing maybe we have different cars I have a blue and black then some other wire dangling that’s also black. BMW 335xi 2011 but it’s my problem I’ll have to figure it out on my own I’m sure. Sorry my comment was a bit brash I was just pissed I the light came on.
My configuration signature is 0592.12p and the basemap that I was able to find is 0565.11p. Would I be able to run this tune, if not how would I go about finding a basemap with the proper signature?
I would never do an entire vehicle in plasti-dip. The texture of it alone is a no go for me, but beyond that, this stuff is notorious for being easily removable. That's not a good thing when you're talking about covering your car in it. You want something that will endure being hit with rocks and other road debris or occasional scuffs. This is my issue with wraps too. Every wrap shop on Earth will tell you the stuff isn't invincible and will likely have to have a panel replaced here and there over time. Nothing better than actual paint and clear coat, but I know these are cheaper options.
These are good concerns. However let me provide my experience. I have been driving full dipped cars for 10 years. In that time, the dip has never come off unless I wanted it to. With one exception, the door handles on my bmw, those are annoying to spray. The fix for that is to add a layer of vinyl tape on the inside of the pull. Rocks have hit the cars numerous times and rarely even leaves a mark. It never makes it through the dip, never had a tear. Minor scuffs will show but also rarely reveal the paint underneath. On this Acura, someone hit the bumper in a parking lot and it did take off some dip but the paint is mostly fine underneath. Since it was small we drove with it for a long time with no touch ups and it did not peel more. I was also side swiped once, to the point where I had to replace two doors and a fender. In that case, none of the dip came off, despite putting a crease dent down the length of the car. I sourced two used doors and a fender and resprayed the whole car, going over the previous dip on the rest of it. No, issues, looks like a new dip job. I also wash the cars with a pressure sprayer with no issues. Finally, the texture can be very smooth if sprayed correctly. It self levels very well, no orange peel. There IS initially way more friction to the touch, however, so it does feel rubbery. To fix this, use the dip coat after spray or a decent spray wax. It will feel very smooth, that rubber feeling goes away almost completely. Plasti dip is not for everyone, but I can tell you that it is crazy durable and long lasting. The main downside is it is close to impossible to match regular paint in glossiness. Don't try. Even the satin I did for the Acura gets pretty matte when not washed all the time. But if you like the aggressive sporty matte look, it's fantastic.
@@OGPedXing Fair points. I agree that the application is key. I had tried it once on wheels and got new tires and the shop's equipment just destroyed the plasti-dip. Then on my next truck I did it really well and got the entire kit and followed the directions and it lasted for over 5 years. I had the tires changed and that time the dip held up no problem. It always had that weird rubber texture and they were harder and harder to clean over time it seemed, but it was quite durable. I would still recommend the product for it's ease of use, but I'd stick to smaller applications like wheels and emblems. I have just bought some Hyperdip to touch up some trim around my MK7 GTI's sunroof, so we'll see how that goes.
Excellent. Newb about ready to do what you did. Just researching parts probably took as much time as the building. Thanks a lot for doing this. Very helpful.
Amen to all these comments! As I am in the middle of idle tuning on my 2000 Miata hot side mp62 my challenge was too eliminate the pesky dummy TB .this video got me to idle rev it and not fall flat all on a duel throttle body setup and best of all I can control my idle valve ! Could never do that the way it was set up before. Still a long way to go ! This guy is super clear and explains in detail to understand easily !👍🏼👍🏼
Robbins is the worst. I had 3 tops fail on my Miata. The first failed in 1 year, the second in 3 years, and the third one just failed in only 4 years. Both of the last ones had the rear window literally fell out from sitting in the Texas sun! They never paid for getting my window installed for the warranty service. Somehow they; decided that since I had installed it, it wasn't "professionally" done, so they wouldn't pay. I'll never buy another Robbins top. I hope you have better luck.
1:32 - the Simple algorithm is not PID control. When using simple, it compares reported AFR to target AFR. If it's richer, it decreases EGO Correction by the Controller Step Size %, if it's leaner, it increases EGO correction by the Controller Step Size %. You will notice that Controller Step Size % is disabled when you select the PID algorithm. 8:34 - MegaSquirt uses a type C PID controller for nearly all PID loops; the P term is uncoupled from the SP and cannot correct error. If you only use the P gain and zero out the other gains, it will only react to changes in the PV, but it cannot reduce error except by accident. The I gain must be used for any error correction to occur. Note that in a beta release of MS3 firmware there was an attempt to use a type B controller but based on the latest MS3 firmware release notes (1.6.0) I don't believe that change was used in production. Additionally in MS3, the Generic Closed-Loop options lets you choose between type B and type C, but you cannot make this choice for idle/EGO/boost PID loops.
Hey OGped, I am trying to find the Trubo Kitty base turbo map. I don't see it linked in the video description and I couldn't find one on their website. Could you post the link? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
@OGPedXing Sweet! I'd love to just use the R8 COPs but I'm running the MS3X which can't fire them correctly. Currently sitting at 230whp on my turbo NB2 and not looking to go past 250 as the motor and trans are stock so these should be good enough
@3lm3rfudd I ran at 230ish with Toyota Cops for a while with no problems at the stock gap. You can watch for blowout at the top of your boost range by logging and looking for drop offs in power and a sudden richness spike in the afr. If you see that, then just gap the plugs down a bit like .035 or .030.
@OGPedXing Thanks! It's awesome how much good info you share. Been tuning my EBC with the help of your other vids, just gotta figure out closed loop so I can boost by gear now. Not confident enough to try the transistor mod to make the ms3x fire the R8 cops
The kpa scale in tuner studio is absolute, meaning it includes regular atmosphere. So it's about 14 psi of boost. Assuming you are at sea level and 100 kpa is the normal air pressure.
If you have an earlier Miata, 90 thru 93 then you'll have a single plug for the ignitor vs 94 and up have two plugs for the 2 coil packs. The wiring in general is similar but I haven't seen a female plug for that sold that will go into your oem harness directly, unfortunately. What most do is cut off the plug from the oem side and wire it to your new cops harness directly. There are some decent diagrams here wiki.fome.tech/Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion/
any idea why i have ve value of 70 in idle? seems high. i have all settings correct for injectors. deadtime, size, required fuel. i have 2000cc engine 940cc injectors 4x, fuel press ia correcr and e85 as fuel. im bit lost here
It can vary. The number itself is somewhere from 0 to 255, so your setup and hardware needs 70 at idle while someone else with a 1.6 engine, other injectors will be lower. If your idle is stable and at the afr you want, then you are good. If your map is too high at the top (you're running a lot of boost and you are close to 255) you can modify required fuel and then bring your map numbers down. But usually, it won't matter.
my car only runs for few secs and dies. i belive its running on the extra fuel it gets when it cranks. also it backfires when i press gas but timing is correct. im so lost😭
Running a few seconds is a good start...crank fuel is probably ok, and after start enrichment (ase) is enough but warm up enrichment is too low. For now increase that. You may need to up the fuel ve table in general, but you can get that fixed after warmup is done. Once your fuel ve is stable for idle, then you can decrease the warmup enrichment a bit because the next time you start, it will be rich. Ase and wue require a few cold starts to dial it in.
@@OGPedXing i cranked the warmup enrichemt to the moon and it worket well. i also had to move the location of missing tooth because it was too far away and it messed with timing when it started. thanks for the help!!
When i first start the car the idle is going higher and higher , i don not want to brake my new rebuild motor :( Is it the fuel or the spark issues? The idle valv is working. Just on/off 12V BTW! Very educational video! 👍
If your idle valve is just open closed rather than pulse width modulation, then you may need to do a manual adjustment with the idle screw. Almost always, idle rpm is going to be related to air and not fuel or spark.
It comes with everything you need to connect to the stock wiring plus an extra wire and fuse that goes to direct to the fuse box's battery positive input so it can get extra amps than what the stock wiring can handle. But for the ignitor wiring, it just plugs right in.
@honda636hp I checked and it's 5 pin: trigger, bat pos, bat negative, sensor ground, and engine ground. You may need to check what the ecu on the Saab requires. Some require a tacho out signal on the igf wire and I don't think this one does that.
I just wanted to say, you did a great job explaining every step you need to adjust your parking brake. It made my life a lot easier.This coming from a old guy with a bad back… Thanks.
“Didn’t get that filmed it’s just 3 bolts straight into the engine block” Riiiiight! Haha after you edited out all the cussin and walk-in around didnt have much after that eh? I didn’t either
@@OGPedXing I dont know why, but I think through updates, its now called High Power 2. I ended up using the 12v from the MAF red/white and then just running my own cable to the rear options connection port R
I know it's a longtime ago but it could help us if in the future use a Lazer pen too point at which bolts or any parts .you may be the only one on RU-vid to do so ! You May gain more support for your chanel 😇
Not to contradict but Alcohol burns slower and less "explosively" than gas. But it burns longer so and applies less combustion pressure but for a longer period of time to effectively apply more total pressure to the crank through the piston and rod. This is why alcohol makes more power and is less destructive to internal engine parts. As a side note on alcohol dirt mods we find that typically we don't or shouldn't add more timing as it doesn't add any power. The longer burn time on the power stroke seems to be the big benifit and using that up by advancing timing won't provide any advantage.
In my research, the laminar flame speed of ethanol is .455 meters per second vs .4 m/s for gasoline. That's what I was referring to. That doesn't necessarily contradict your points, though. Full combustion is different from flame speed. On a dyno, you will typically be able to get more power in any part of the curve where gasoline was knock limited by advancing the timing. Other places, it won't help and may lower mbt.
@@OGPedXing According to the national institute for health combustion rates for gasoline are faster than for alcohol and flame speed propagation in a non enclosed area has no effect on combustion rates. Typically any ability to advance timing has to do with the cooling effect of alcohol fuels when inserted in the fuel air tract of an internal combustion engine as u have stated making it less knock prone. In my years of racing (I'm 63) with a race gas powered car ignition advance can be run as much as 35 total degrees. Alcohol engines tend to rarely use any more than 28. Of course adjustments will probably have to be made in a street driven vehicle.
@matthewmoilanen787 Hmm, that's not my experience at all. Just with my Miata, 28 degrees is very low...down a lot from max torque. I don't have the paper in front of me, but it is measured in a compressed state (piston) at lambda = 1.
@@OGPedXingOf course you'll want to adjust accordingly for your street driven vehicle, combustion chamber type, valve train type, bore stroke ratio, ect but we and most other dirt or asphalt oval guys seem to settle on about 28-32 max. If u have made Dyno runs and found your ideal to be more than 28 then you should of course do that. Most importantly is that more timing isn't necessarily optimum but it may work well in your case. I have been told by the so called "pro" engine guys that the biggest benefit for them was the increased burn time and pressure application on the power stroke. They have explained that starting the fire too early just pulls power sometimes because combustion pressure starts to rise while the piston is still raising. You seem to be doing a great job on explaining the installation of this control unit and if it works better for you with more advance good on you for finding that out and pulling that last bit of power. Again nice work on the vids as you are a huge help to allot of people trying to work this stuff out!
