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SuperMiata Clutch Install! 

OGPedXing
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Full install and tips video for my new Supermiata high torque clutch and light flywheel. This is a great clutch if you've gone turbo in your Miata and need to handle way more torque than stock. The flywheel is close to 10 pounds lighter than stock and helps improve engine response.
Time codes for each step in the process:
1. Remove console and shifter 00:12
2. Lift the car 01:48
3. Unbolt the slave cylinder 02:15
4. Drop the splash tray 03:15
5. Undo brackets, speedo cable, wiring from trans 03:55
6. Drop the exhaust mid/down pipe 05:48
7. Remove cross member bar & drain trans fluid 06:30
8. Remove the drive shaft 07:30
9. Loosen power plant frame (PPF) 08:22
10. Support the back of the trans with a rope through the shifter hole 11:10
11. Setup for taking out bell housing bolts 11:30
12. Remove bell housing bolts 12:30
13. Support the front of the engine from the oil pan 14:10
14. Lower the transmission 15:00
15. Inspect the transmission & maybe clean 15:43
16. Remove the clutch and flywheel 17:00
17. Inspect and replace if needed the rear main seal and gaskets 17:20
18. Prepare the flywheel bolts (need sealant) 18:09
19. Install new pilot bearing in the flywheel (do it off the car!) 20:49
20. Install the flywheel 18:58
21. Setup new clutch/wipe down 22:10
22. Install the clutch and align 22:40
23. Install throw-out bearing, grease everything 24:20
24. Re-install the transmission 25:45
25. Apply anti-seize to PPF bolts and install the back one plus insert 26:46
26. Alignment method for the PPF front bolts 27:41
Straight edge should go across the car perpendicular to the PPF at the first bolt:
If measuring from the framerails, the edge should be 66mm +/- 5mm from the base of the PPF.
If measuring from the floor pan (your framerails are crushed like mine) measure 10mm +/- 5mm.
27. Re-install shifter (new gear oil in the turret) 28:41
Don't forget to refill the transmission with new fluid! 2 quarts of 75W90 transmission oil plus a half a quart for the turret/shifter.
Tools:
Normal stuff like a variety of sockets, 1/2 inch drive, 6 point is recommended.
24mm, 21mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm.
Breaker bar: amzn.to/2uKbmBp
Transmission jack like I used: amzn.to/2Nfebkj
#namiata #miata #supermiata
OGPedxing is all about DIY, gadgets, and tools.

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10 янв 2020

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Комментарии : 30   
@stephanegenest6793
@stephanegenest6793 3 месяца назад
I know it's a longtime ago but it could help us if in the future use a Lazer pen too point at which bolts or any parts .you may be the only one on RU-vid to do so ! You May gain more support for your chanel 😇
@insomniauk1
@insomniauk1 4 года назад
i'm about to try to fit my 6 puck ebay clutch and i'll be referencing this vid as i go, as i did with your ms3x diy build. very informative videos, keep up the good work :)
@haydenbenninghofen
@haydenbenninghofen 2 года назад
Super helpful! Awesome to see an in-depth guide without using a 4 point lift. Planning on tackling the same job soon. Thank you again!
@user-rx3wh8lb3e
@user-rx3wh8lb3e Год назад
So grateful for this video. One of the best on YT. I couldn't have changed my clutch without it.
@joshslowmez6065
@joshslowmez6065 3 года назад
Thanks tackling this job this weekend and my first time doing a clutch job and you video was awesome thanks VERY DEATAILED AND GREAT CAMERA AND LIGHTNING
@justsaiyansteve
@justsaiyansteve 4 года назад
Badass video. Lots of insight.
@XxDerpDerpsonxX
@XxDerpDerpsonxX 3 года назад
This is so helpful, thank you!!!
@faviles56
@faviles56 7 месяцев назад
Hey there! Quick question, I'm ordering the same complete kit from 949/SuperMiata. Did your lightweight flywheel come with the new pilot bearing? Unfortunately my replacement engine did not come with anything on the rear end of the engine. Just want to be sure I have that ordered in time for the install. Amazing video, btw! Thanks for taking your time to show all of this.
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 7 месяцев назад
I want to say it did....don't quite remember, but I also don't recall ordering the pilot bearing separately. So I think it was included.
@jmpcrx
@jmpcrx 4 года назад
Be interesting to know if you get any judder at all in first and reverse?...
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 4 года назад
For me in those gears it's just a bit different due to the light flywheel. A little jerky at times until I drove it more. No problems now.
@ceasars1997
@ceasars1997 4 года назад
How are you liking the clutch? I’m debating between FM1 and the SM organic for a 1.8NA that will eventually be turbod on stock internals. Thoughts?
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 4 года назад
It's been perfect. I was shopping the same options, ended up with sm mostly because I respect Emilio over there but partly due to some reports of occasional quality control problems with the fm1. That could be user error of course. I followed the break in period completely and I've been loving it and the lightened flywheel.
@ceasars1997
@ceasars1997 4 года назад
OGPedXing awesome. tx for the quick reply. Seems like that’s all ive been hearing. I guess i know what im going to order now 👍🏼
@ceasars1997
@ceasars1997 4 года назад
Clutch installed. I got the jerkiness you mentioned in a previous comment. It’s nearly gone after 120 miles - reverse is still rough. I never got break in instructions though. I assumed take it easy for 500 city miles. Also i wanted to compare general clutch pedal feel. My pedal weight feels very close to my previous clutch - pretty light. Also in terms of engagement point it starts to lightly grab at about 1/4 way up with a relatively wide engagement range and fully grabbing at about 4/5ths of the way up. Do these align with your experience?
@juniorcruz960
@juniorcruz960 Год назад
Thanks man seems pretty easy to do lot easier then takin out the whole engine just to put in a new aftermarket clutch kit did a good job man now I'm do the same thing for my 90's miata
@Ahitzalex
@Ahitzalex 11 месяцев назад
It’s not mentioned in the video but did you have to adjust your clutch pedal so it fully engages/disengages?
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 11 месяцев назад
Oh, I thought I did. Nope! No adjustment required!
@chrisram186
@chrisram186 2 года назад
Where is the top passenger bolt we can’t find it?
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 2 года назад
The top two bolts are symmetrical at the top of the bell housing. Some people have better luck getting to that one from the top through the engine bay. For me it was good with a couple of extensions and a swivel joint...you can just barely see it from the bottom if your head is positioned on the passenger side of the trans and back a bit, about where the speedo cable would go.
@WigglingWaffles
@WigglingWaffles 4 года назад
am I the only one that removes the very top bell housing bolts from the engine bay?
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 4 года назад
I like coming from the underside because you can use an impact on it but even with hand tools, a couple of extensions and you can reach right up there with no problem.
@Onewiththesauce8
@Onewiththesauce8 3 года назад
Putting the trans back in is the most fucked thing I’ve ever tried. For some reason it doesn’t want to marry back to the bell housing. All t bolts go in except for the starter bolts and I’m so lost as to why every other bolt is flush to the trans but the starter bolts won’t even catch threads. So pissed so annoyed.
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 3 года назад
Yeah I feel ya. Make sure the bell housing is really close to seated flush before tightening any bolts. If you use the bolts to draw it in then the shaft may be going in crooked. If it's within a quarter inch that's fine but not way out. You can jack the front of the engine lightly to tilt it back and that can help get it to slide in straight.
@Onewiththesauce8
@Onewiththesauce8 3 года назад
@@OGPedXing I think that might be my problem because when I first marry them without bolts the bottom is flush but the top isn’t and slowly the top becomes flush once I started screwing the bolts in. So I should take all the bolts out, raise the front of the engine by the oil pan? And then take the trans out and try re installing it again so it slides in straight?
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 3 года назад
@@Onewiththesauce8 if it's mostly in, you can also try supporting the back of the trans as you slide it forward. Sometimes you need to rotate the drive shaft slightly to get it to line up or you can also put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the engine side. Usually just a small rotation is all that's needed to get the splines to line up.
@jmpcrx
@jmpcrx 4 года назад
Did this a month or so back, took two days, all went smoothly though, lucky enough to use a pit,, must have been a bitch using just ramps.
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing 4 года назад
Yeah even a low lift like a quickjack would've have been amazing. Actually truck style jack stands would've been better, 6 more inches would have helped. But the trans Jack was great, I recommend that (harbor freight).
@juniorcruz960
@juniorcruz960 Год назад
But I do have an engine 1.8l manual that I can jus swap onto without taking the transmission out
@OGPedXing
@OGPedXing Год назад
Yes, if you are doing an engine swap, you can unbolt the bell housing only, yank the engine and replace while leaving the trans in place. It can be a little finicky getting the trans spindle to seat in the clutch pilot bearing and such but it is doable.
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