Thanks for posting the video, very helpful. My anti-skate doesn't seem to do anything, my needle just wants to travel to the center of the record no matter what I set it to. I took the turntable apart and the small spring (anti-skating set to 0,5) is just about touching the post like in your video, so seems to be calibrated, but like I've explained, nothing happens. The spring looks straight also, but I can't tell if it's been bent out of shape or not, as I'm by no means an expert.
having an issue on my MK2 1200. that being I'm getting no effect from my anti skate. thank you so much for explaining this. this is going to be a big hope (i hope) in fixing my deck
How do you get the pivot screw that's held in with the grub screw out? I have a tonearm and the fixed screw and the grub screw are both missing and I was wondering it's it's the same as all the others or if it's unthreaded. Thanks
@@decktech9684 it sure is stunning. I've already ordered 4D Black effect for my two. How did the edges work for you with your vinyl? Im assuming I'll have to slice down each corner and match the pattern that way ? Thats the only thing i see being difficult.
Omg ! Ive literally just dismantled one deck for complete renovation, been quoted 50quid for matt black powder coating but ive always had in mind dark carbon effect. Then your clip popped up and i did a happy wee! Man that is classy af bro
Do you ever find the anti skate doesn't work properly with tracking force above 3g? My current stylus required 4g and the anti skate isn't strong enough to stop it going towards the centre when using a blank record. anything up to 3g is ok but not above. I calibrated it exactly as you have here (service manual confirms this method too) could the spring weaken over time?
are you using this to dj or just to play records? If you're just playing records then you should think of getting another cartridge that has lower recommended tracking force, 1.5-2g. If you're using it to dj then you set anti skate to 0, that is the general recommendation for that application.
@@rtm00x yes using to dj. I've heard that recommendation of 0 for djing many times over the years but I'm not in agreement. Perhaps scratch mixing is different, but for blending and general mixing, the correct setting should be applied. Heard way to many used records over the years with destroyed inner grooves due to 0 setting being used with too much weight.
@@rtm00x I know what you mean but I think incorrect setup is far more dangerous to records than too much weight. I've got records that I've played hundreds of times with 4g and probably even more weight when I was young and stupid and they still sound great. I mean they have no doubt deteriorated, but it's not hugely noticable.
Great vid mate. Just done this. First time I didn't unwind the base, and like you said it didn't go back to 0. I have since realised this is because the rca cable, and potentially the cable tie catches on the metal plate. If you look inside the side as you wind it down, you can see it hit the plate. This means that thicker rca cables won't allow the tonearm to go as low.
you got my sub my dad pass away two years ago. He left me a sl 1700 that i love soo much. I just opened the plate to see if the spindle need oil. THANK YOU for this
do these wires need to be shielded by the ground wires or whats the different between doing this and getting one of those shielded wrapped wires, besides the mate3rial?
I bought the same wire, but why did you use that end of the cable? how do you resolder on the collet part of it onto the pcb of the turtable if you use the tin side for the cartridge side?
Hi, all please can I get some advice. The tone arm one my left deck seems to be lower and at a slight angle when not in use. Its not the black lifter (my technical term) as it does not rest on this. It is just sitting in the Black tone arm lock mechanism. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
@@decktech9684 My Tie arm clip is at a different angle than the other I think that may be the problem but its a 100mm difference. Can I move the clip by hand? I dont want to break it. I see people use pliers and drill bits to unscrew it but I dont need to change it.
@Davehiphop yes you could try moving it if you think that's the problem, I've seen your post on fb if you want to send me a pic on there, I might be able help more. @DeckTech
Hi… do the wires need to go back in the same order? I’ve taken the wires off my cartridge head and now I need to put them back as I replaced the tone arm.
@Sami Moursy I would say yes. Otherwise, you'll get either no should or sound on one channel and not the other, best way to test is using a multimeter with a continuity test facility so you know which wire goes to which terminal
fun stuff & good show. I broke one of the 4 tiny wire / plugs that connect to back of cartridge - ( 73 , clumsy hands is my excuse ) and it didn't have the SME /technics replaceable 2 inch wires... had to do something like this - very crude, no way I was going to remove the tonearm / pivot. and electronic repair shops have gone the way of dinosaur. eventually just ran 4 tiny new wires ( eBay ) along outside of tonearm, wound & soldered them to the cable / rca jacks going to amp. crude but it works. > be very sure to color code the wires. I painted them & put color insulating tubing on the ends where I had the right tubing. WHY they don't use sturdier fittings - din't even have insulating tubes ( at minimum thicker or double insulating tubes over the vulnerable connections. ) and standard replaceable sme / or other head shell......ps I found burning the insulation off using small matches worked better than trying to cut / strip the insulation.... far less chance of cutting 1 or 2 of the very tiny fragile wire. just clean the bare wire with alcohol or other.
Hi i bought a project debut second hand there is a shield missing off one wire. I have buzzing coming from one side of speakers. Would the missing sleeve do this? Cheers
