I'm a former mechanic and plumber that seems to always be fixing something, from plumbing to vending machines, atvs, and cars. I publish videos about various items I'm working on, but also tips on tools, good items to flip on craigslist, and more.
I actually got it repaired (same issue) under warranty....by 2 months of the expiration during covid. BUT they could not get the icemaker to ever work. Just replaced it again...ok I waited 4 years. I don't use a lot of ice.
Did you end up replacing the solenoid or just cleaning it up again? If you did replace, do you happen to remember the PN? I’m not finding it anywhere for the LX255.
Wondering if there is a way to drain water out of the fuel tank. If not full, condensation can form and it's going to make water in the bottom of the tank. I let my JD LX279 run out of fuel and probably chugged water into the carb. The tractor has sat for awhile because I could not get it started again. Water may have rusted that little plunger or other components in the fuel system. Arggh . . . is all I can say today. August 2024.
Thanks, this was fun to troubleshoot. I could see performing diags the temp of the EVAP was 6 degrees but the air compartment was 50 degrees which agreeded with my external reading. Part on order.
I unscrewed the 2 big plastic circular and loosened the bottom drawer. But the bottom drawer won't come out. Is there anything else I need to remove? Is the water filter holding it in? I appreciate any help you can provide.
Hello there, I have just started the search for information to fix my air compressor Makita AC1300. Your film is the first one that I have come across. Can you help please. The problem I have with my compressor is that it will not restart after it has run low of air. It will start from the beginning with no air in the tank and build up to the required pressure. But once the air as depleted down to a lower level it struggles to restart. It just turns over slowly and does not restart. If the air is completely emptied from the air tank it will then restart. I have had the compressor for some years.!I bought it off eBay and it was only a matter of months old. It was stated that it was an ex display model ??? It may be better if I take a film of what I'm saying is going on with the machine. If I upload it onto RU-vid I can then let you know the link. Might be can be for other people to repair their machine with the same problem. Do you think it might be some pressure valve or sensor. Thank you for any help. Kind regards, Daniel King.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video! This was the exact problem with my GE washer! I really appreciate the help. My cold water valve was also the one clogged! As a workaround while I wait for my replacement part, I am just running my laundry for now on hot water only (until I can make the full ) and it is working again! Thank you thank you!
I’ve got one that has sit for awhile and fuel is running straight through carb into cylinder could this be stuck in the open position causing the gas to run straight through
Mine had this problem, so I opened it up and glued foam together, I replaced the foam strip. I put it all back together just now, but not sure if fan is running
Wellllllll technically your supposed to use manufactures parts to do any repairs and in, including the valves due to the device being an assembly but does anybody really follow that? No is it something that has to be mentioned? Yes can a backflow device fail due to this. Yes, in the test report anyway not physically but that just depends on how strict your area is. For instance, my area they’re heavily strict on this but also the reason why i’m leaving a comment is . why the plastic busted is due at the flexing of the bonnet cap the brass piece on top of the device with three screw holes due to freezing you can see the bonnet cap is more of a dome shape and not flat just trying to be informational and not here to start confrontation
I can by looking at your clutch, the drive clutch is stuck closed.i had the same problem but mine was from a whole bunch of tall grass that got tightly wound up in the end of the clutch. It was preventing the sheave from the drive clutch sliding back and forth and keeping it in the closed position at rest and the driven clutch was in essence open. Therefore it was stuck in the high gear and jumping from idle.
It’s so funny. I’m looking at one online right now for 100 bucks. I can’t wait to go pick it up because I’m pretty sure this is the same problem. It’s having it’s such a pretty refrigerator with that wood grain in the inside. Oh my God gotta have it.
I don’t cover it, but I also don’t leave it out in the rain. I keep it under my covered patio. No problems with weathering. To be clear, it’s not a vegetable oil film that’s protecting it. You apply the vegetable oil and then get the smoker really hot so that the vegetable oil bakes on and turns to a protective layer of black carbon. Same as seasoning a castiron skillet
Save the old run capacitor. It's probably still fine. I had to replace the start capacitor on mine and the run capacitor was still good. If you ordered from Amazon like I did they give the dimensions of those you can find one that would fit better than that compartment. You might want to put something in there to hold that capacitor in place so it's not moving around so much. Mine had thick rubber bands around it to hold it steady inside the cover. In fact before I put the new run capacitor on I could spin the motor by hand and turn it on and it would come up to normal running speed as if it was a bad centrifugal switch inside the motor. Additional information: If you have something like a bench grinder that just sits there and hums when you turn it on it's probably a bad centrifugal switch. With a bad centrifugal switch you can turn that motor either direction and it'll start picking up speed in that direction. The primary winnings determined the direction of the motor and the secondary windings speed it up to full speed in whichever direction it was already turning. Some people install a reversing switch on their bench grinder or their drill press for special procedures.
hi! I purchased & installed the part as indicated...thank you! I performed the diagnostic mode #40 & the dual evap valve in RC position is pushing the air (part 4 / 5) as it should! HOWEVER, out of diagnostic mode, the air flow in the RC compartment from the preserva food care system is not working. Any ideas of what to try next? (other than calling for repair)
Not exactly. If you shutoff the valves and drain the backflow preventer, the backflow preventer will be safe. However, half of the lower valve is still filled with water and under pressure, and could freeze and break as mine did. Fortunately, if you put the unions in as I suggested, it’s really cheap and easy to unscrew it all and just replace the valve for a few bucks.
@@anythingmechanical3399 thank you. Is it okay to place the Union AFTER the elbow closer to the valve? so next time I don't have to worry about buying an elbow?
Totally off the theme of compressors, I have a condensing tumble dryer and had a humming noise coming from what I believe to be one of two capacitors housed behind the fan. Thought initially fan but having taken sides off it spins freely no noise from bearings. So….my issue is the missus ran the machine the other night and same annoying loud humming noise until nearly complete cycle when it tripped the rcd at consumer board. Today I took the wires off the capacitor terminals in turn one at a time and powered up the machine. Power on fine. When starting a cycle however it immediately trips the main rcd no matter which capacitor is disconnected at time. Would it therefore point to something else or would you expect an appliance to trip if the capacitor was not connected at all at the time of start up? Thanks. I know it’s a long shot but you obv have skills
I do have a regular 3/8 hose also. I haven’t noticed a big difference power output between it and my flex hose, but you’re right, I should’ve given it a try on this job before opting for the breaker bar. I also have a really nice snap-on all steel gun, but I almost never use it because my air compressor becomes the weak point
I watched a couple of videos with these couplers and was all in to do this until I bought them at Home depot. I brought them home and realized that the couplers inner diameter was smaller than just using a pvc coupler. I was worried that would restrict water flow to the sprinklers so I just glued them on. Do you notice any less water flow?
If you watch the video again the union slips over the outside of the pvc pipe. It does have a small shoulder so that both sides of the pipe will meet in tue exact center, but the shoulder isn’t as thick as the pvc pipe. In short, no restriction, no loss of water flow
Mine had some cans explode during winter and started tripping breaker shortly after. Thought it may be capaciter till i saw this. What did you use to clean syrupy stuff with?
Appreciate your knowledge and experience and the time you put into these videos it's on my bucket list to start my first vending machine route soon. I figured while I'm saving up to buy routes I'll learn how to repair the machines in the meantime
That's installed all backwards. First the unit is too close to the backside of the house. No room for maintenance. Also the tiny pressure values should not be facing the back of the house. Water will be smashing everywhere if and when you need to pressurize the system. Whoever the original plumbing contractor is that installed that Backflow preventer with that orientation in the first place needs to have his or her license revoked. Also all that cracking of the Ball Valve unit usually occurs when the whomever neglects to pay that annual $100 to have an irrigation contractor come out to winterize your system. I know this to be a fact because every time I have failed the winterize the system (Around October/November in the Northeast) Ive had to replace cracked parts on the BackFlow preventer the following spring at startup.
I wonder if you could just remove the whole thing in winter since it's somewhat portable now and bring it in the house so it doesn't freeze anymore. Would there be a problem with just those two pipes being left exposed to the cold?
I've also just got one for free, when I put coins in they go straight to the coin return, I've set mine to 5 cents, any suggestions why it won't take coins and just send them to the return and not register or give me credit for putting the coins in, thanks for the great video
Hi Matthew. You’ll have to turn off the water to the house. Usually the shutoff valve can be found in your yard near the street under a plastic cover. There will be a dial/meter in there that records how much water you’re using. The shutoff valve doesn’t have much of a handle and usually requires pliers to turn. Turn it 1/4 turn perpendicular to the pipe to shutoff the water
