Just the seals with the case on the bench was about 2 hours of just being careful. The whole job should probably take about 6-7 hours. I took a few days at my leisure. I had a spare vehicle to. Drive.
I've been thinking about buying a silicone hose kit to replace mine as it was looking ugly, and just kept putting it off. Today it began leaking. You sir are a life saver. Thank you for this video!
I got one of these not working but new from an auction site. Once I got it running with a new 3 light ignition modual. I procced to run the absolute hell out of it for about 15 months. Its just now giving me shit which i hope to solve with a full service and choke plug check.
Por error le entro corriente a la planta. Y se le quemó un transistor de la tarjeta de corriente continúa. Y no se le ve el número. Cómo hago para su valor numérico.
Ik this video is like a year old but I have the same generator. I can get it to start up but the full mode is running like of the Eco mode how it up goes up and down with the RPMs. Does anybody know why that is?
I'm looking at doing the same upgrade to the same vehicle and I'm just wondering what your thoughts are after 5 years or however long it's been about the maxspeedingrods k04's... Any other issues you ran into while doing the upgrade? Thanks in advance I appreciate your time
They ran good for the first two or three years that the car was still running. I wrecked the car in 2019 and it's sitting in my driveway waiting to go back together. This October will be four years since it's been on the road.
That's a decent rate. Batteries rest at 12.5 to 12.7. Good Systems will charge between 13.3 to 14.7. The more load you have the lower the voltage will be depending on the amp rating and the technology in it.
It started out that my battery gage would drop near 0 and my battery light came on so went yesterday to get another alternator which seems to have made things worse because now with the new alternator all my dashlights are coming on and the battery gage on dash goes all the way high maxing out and it's doing this on & off on& off I've had problems in the past with putting new alternators on til we thought we finally found the right one but the last one we put on (new ) was only less than 2yrs old My question is with this new alternator why is all dashlights coming on & off battery gage maxing out like over charging and before we put new one on the alternator that was on it would just battery light on dash would come on and the gage would go very low an then would go back to where it should be but the car never failed to start if my gage showed nearly dead when I would come out from store car would start back everytime???????? HELP
I had the electric draw problem. The electric fans run through one of those relays. I can't remember which relay but it stay closed and kept my fan running with car off and drained my battery. After I wire brushed the sockets and put in new relays, the fans turned off and the electrical draw issue was solved. Also, the SAI began working lol. I still need to replace my cover but at least one per year I open the box to make sure it isn't accumulating moister and rust.
Hi, thanks for useful videos. l have a question While I was driving my Audi A4 2001 has lost elecric power that means no power at all. alternator is ok and the battery has enough power. what could be the issue.-'' Thanks
Has to be a main battery cable going into the fuse box that feeds into the interior. Try testing all the fuses under the hood. Look for burnt wires. I don't have the car anymore but I fdi have a 00 A6. I just don't have the wires memorized right now. From the positive post there should be 2 cables. 1 goes to the alternator / starter. The other goes to the main fuse panel under the hood, then to the interior
@@russellp73 Thanks 4 replies. I did check t he fuses were OK, but when took off the cable of the battery then I saw the terminals of cable very old and rusted, after cleaning it the problem has been solved. I'm waiting 4 more videos of u. Thank you for helping me.
So I just bought a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t and there’s no crank or start. I did pop the clutch because it’s a manual six speed it ran for a few seconds then died if you have any clue let me know I’m trying an idea that I seen on RU-vid to hook a hot wire from the hot terminal of your battery to the starter and seeing if it’ll start.
@@tablecombataw6716 That's good to know - so there is enough access from below to get to all the bolts... I wish there was a video covering the removal of this transfer case... would be extremely useful.
Stopped one evening after a few hours running and would not restart. Later discovered that one wire on the battery post was very loose and never tightened. I'm about to go out and check to see if the choke was stranded in the wrong position. Has anyone had a problem changing oil? Couldn't get the drain plug out because the access panel was rectangular instead of reverse "L" shape. Had to pry the entire side panel out to get to it. The brand is KCG4000i. I suspect that this model is in fact a KCG4500i power plant with 4000i side panels and control panel, maybe made at the end of a production run, to continue making that model after a discontinued power plant. There are a number of similar brands with the exception of plastic colour, labels, and minor front electrical connector types. I suspect that Westinghouse, Cummin-Omar, King Canada etc all came from the same factory.
Hi, the inner seal XHO200E... Do you remember the part number from mazda? I cant find it here in Colombia, and mazda parts seller can't find this with that number. Thank you 🙏
Apparently I didn't replace it. I can't find it either. It's inside the auto trans and it seals on the axle shaft that inserts from the passenger side. I think it's just a dust seal, so if it's intact, it should be OK. I even tried to look it up in the Mazda shop manual. I found the big outer seal and something they are calling a differential o-ring.
theres a drain plug under ur battery make sure its clear so water can drain if not thats what happens when it fills with water........ left my hood open 1 day heavy rain yea came back to a pool were the battery is located a4 b5 and a4 b6
Technically, once you pull the tower, there's nothing in the way. If you can get them out without scratching the sealing surfaces, your only half way done. Then you have to get the new ones in at the proper depth. To get out seals with limited access, I drill a 1/8" hole in the face of the seal and put a drywall screw in it and use the screw to pull the seal. Use 2 opposite screws if it's a stubborn seal.
I did not have to open the case. Probably a seal puller for the outer ones. But safer to use a brass rod to push them out from the opposite side. Definitely a brass rod for the inner ones or be super careful with a steel punch. Don't scratch the seal surface. There is another video on RU-vid about replacing the seals. And I'd look up the manual for the depth measurements for each seal.
Have had a problem with starting. Took non pull side off. Turned choke on by hand. Worked fine for a while. 2 weeks ago I had just topped of the tank and went to bed in a Cracker Barrel parking lot. 2 hours later it just stopped. Tried to start with propane a couple of days later, no go. So I found this video and went at it. Took all three sides off and loosened the front. Found the connection not to be connected. Plugged it in no better. Changed spark plug. BINGO. The SP was burnt from running with the choke open all the time. These 4500's are very very heavy when you keep it in a box behing a 5th wheel. Thank you for your video. Westinghouse should hire a PLUG IN guy.
I have a related problem but different. I've checked all wires and the choke seems to move to the full open once it starts. The problem is that is does not run well in full open. I have to manually push it back about 80% of the way to the choke position and that's where it seems to run well. It sputters, struggles and eventually stops in full open. Ideas?
I had one other generator act like this. A simple manual set choke. The carb jet was clogged so it had to be choked to get enough gas to run. Otherwise it would die if I turned off the choke. How long has yours been sitting since it started acting this way? Mine sat for a year or 2 till I needed it and that's when I found the problem
My update: I bought a used unit with 2 hours and advertised choke problem. They had a mechanic attempt to fix but no joy. I bought for $250 thinking it may be the notorious choke plug. Yes, I plugged it in and voila, NOT. The unit would start cold but would not restart when warm. All the below is warm engine: I replaced stepper motor, no start.. Then cleaned choke plate, no start. Replaced carb, no start. Finally, I replaced the starting module, YES....All told , about $70 in parts, of which I have an extra carb and stepper motor. I plan on calling Westinghouse with the news...
My comfort control module got wet I replaced it and Horan windshield wipers turn signals windows convertible top all don’t work Fuses are still good what could be the issue
the pne i had in the garage was diesel model (RHD) and literally three relays were swimming there, fuel pump, ecm and glow plug relays. no starting , at the try moment lost communication with everything, fault only on glow plug ciruit :D
Pretty sure it was a manufacturer's defect for not having the cable connected. That's what the other RU-vidrs mentioned. I think mine stopped running because of the same problem. I'm going to return it.
Went through the same scenario. Thought it was the bag, replaced it, nothing. Thought it'd be the sensor, replaced it, nothing. Got the valve block, hopefully that's my problem. Thanks for the video
I bought mine a few months ago and used it non stop on a 2wk camping trip. I use non ethanol fuel and after the break in on the engine I changed the oil every 50 hrs. Not one single problem ran flawlessly the only thing that I had to do during the 2wks I was camping was charge the battery 1 time.
