Building Modern - A Modern DIY Renovation Vlog. We're a married couple renovating and working on our own modern home ourselves together (diy). We do all of our projects ourselves from the design & to complete build, with a lean towards a modern aesthetic. We're now working on building our forever home together, including accessory buildings & additions. Thanks for watching our video and joining our journey!
Great video, very helpful! This is my first year growing Japanese Maples, here in central Ohio 6B. It’s been a little tricky figuring out optimal planting spots in my yard. I planted a 1 gallon Amber Ghost in April under a big oak canopy. It’s healthy but just straight green and I think it needs more sun. I am planning to move it either this fall after leaf drop or in spring at bud break. I’d rather move it in late fall just to get it done sooner, but am wondering: is there much of an advantage to waiting until spring bud break instead? Since it’s such a young tree the roots are not well developed yet, and I think it will be pretty easy to move. Thanks for your advice!
Definitely move it in either Spring or late Winter (before it leafs out). Straight green means it likely needs a little more sun (4-6 hours morning sun is pretty ideal for it). For the when - if your ground freezes, it’s better to wait until after the last major freeze (once the ground isn’t frozen). If your ground doesn’t freeze, any time when the leaves are off the tree is fine (try to hurt the roots as little as possible). Cheers 🙂
So far, they’ve been fine. No problems with carpenter bees yet or any other insect. There are some cobwebs, but not too much. Overall, it’s holding up extremely well. 🙂
I was wondering how this worked, at 37:13 you explained it quite well. What if I am air layering a branch and I am also approach grafting the same branch, which is feeding the branch nutrients (because it is still connected to its rootstock). Will this effect the air layering in a negative way?
I’m not sure I’d go for both at the same time, as neither have a 100% success rate, and both may add stress to the other. I’m not sure why you’d both graft and air layer at the same time. Usually, you air layer to get a copy of the specific cultivar. Sorry, I can’t give a better answer. Personally, I’d avoid doing both on the same branch at the same time, though, there’s a chance it could be just fine (there’s also a chance it won’t).
@@buildingmodern I did both because I am impatient, and didn't think it through. Fortunately, I checked it today and I am starting to see roots popping out, and the grafting plant has buds sprouting. Maybe the two are helping each other out. I just hope it don't suddenly die when I cut them apart. (both plants are still attached to their own rootstock)
@@buildingmodern The air layering is looking successful, but the graft failed when I checked it earlier today. This is unusual, because approach grafts rarely fail.
i kinda wanna make a 12×12 trellis in my garden seemlar but flower garden ( after research it takes 3 years to establish beds for finished grown results) ill add waterfall.....spill .. catch ..little pond and fountains along with modeen arch type layout. ive 66.5'×65.5' of backyard and not level
I love this Episode and I have a few Maple trees that I will be doing the same thing to them., I live in the Northwest so this weather here is wetter them mst places but still the same technick for this will be applied to them ones I have ., '
Love your garden and love what you have done with the windows! Am looking to do acrylic ( pexiglass)windows and wondered what thickness your sheets are? Great job!
I'm sure you figured it out already, but the white pickets with the raised grain are still cedar, they're just all sapwood and from near the bark. They don't smell great or resist decay like the boards with more purple heartwood. Not great wood. The boards with white and pink are the next boards sawn off the tree. It's mixed sapwood and heartwood. The darker pickets that are all purple, if you'll notice, typically have more knots than the others. They are from the very heart of the tree and those are knots from the first limbs the tree grew as it was shooting up. They're the most decay resistant and will probably last the longest. Western red cedar is usually the species used for pickets. At least around where I live. Some Japanese cedar, too. The reason these are lighter colored than the "real cedar" boards that cost more is because they're left green after sawing. The other boards have been kiln dried and surfaced, and that process usually makes the heartwood appear more brown than pink or purple. Either way, you guys inspired me. I just went and dropped $500 bucks on pickets to try a much smaller shed of my own!
This is super neat and informative! We definitely didn’t know about the differences. It makes sense about kiln drying vs not. Super neat - enjoy your build! Thanks for watching! 😄
in your lower batten which holds the window in place add some weep holes on the lower surface as water will always collect here and rot can set in.Shed looks great,well done.
Thanks! We have one in there actually! It keeps trying to die, but seems to have made it another year. Ginkgos leaf out later for us, so it hadn’t leafed out yet in this video. When we record the next showing the growth this year, it’ll definitely be in that video 🙂
Yes, it’s too late to avoid damage. If it *has* to be moved now, dig wider and deeper than you think and try to avoid disturbing the roots as much as possible. However, if it’s possible, it’s much better to wait for Fall - once all the leaves have fallen off the tree to move it. Second to that, the absolute best time to move it is after your ground has thawed, and the buds are beginning to swell (but haven’t leafed out yet).
@@buildingmodernOk thank you. The tree is about 4 foot tall right now. It might be too hard for me to move on my own anyhow. I just moved into a new house and someone planted one in a weird spot.
Thanks for watching! We don’t water the garden at all anymore. If there’s been a long drought (maybe a month), we might start watering every 4-5 days. If you want the best results, watering trees in the ground every 3-4 days would likely be appropriate. However, we’re on city water and this isn’t financially feasible for us (and, honestly, the plants don’t need it). If you have Japanese maples in pots, you normally water every 2-3 days unless it has rained.
Hey guys! I ended up getting the smaller YD8103 model and did some modifications to it😊. Thought you’d get a kick out of it!👍 ru-vid.comXamHjhOPH9M?si=xRDomnD4kuVXf7t0
@SonyLe we aren’t disclosing our exact location in a public forum like RU-vid for safety reasons. You’re welcome to reach out to us directly though - hellobuildingmodern@gmail.com 🙂
Hey, how much sun is the dancing peacock getting? Love your place....Just wonder how often do you water? I have about 70 JPs and one pretty good well, but if we have a drought I'm a bit concerned, I'm in 7a...your hotter.
Hello! Our smaller one gets maybe two hours of sun while our larger one gets 6-8 hours of direct sun (the rest is overhead filtered shade). We don’t water at all anymore, unless we’re in a drought or it’s really hot (above 95 in the afternoon). In those situations, we’ll maybe water once every 2-3 days (some people water daily, that’s not in our budget with the amount of trees we have). If they’re well established, they should be mostly fine (leaves will crinkle though) as long as they have some water at least every two weeks (though, of course, they’d prefer it more often). If you’re in a deep drought, and can water, once to twice a week should be enough to tide them over, assuming it’s also hot. If it isn’t hot, once every 1.5 weeks or so. Warning: this is just what’s worked for us. Your situation may be different, err with caution. 🙂
@@buildingmodern Many thanks, I haven't had much trouble with drought in the Ozark Mts. I never had my well run dry, it's a good one but I'm beginning to wonder...I need to go on worry fast. Do you ever have issues with Japanese beetles? I had an issue two years ago and I purchased a lot of milky spore and the following year hardly any...Once I sprayed the leaves with dawn and overdid it,,,don't like that method but I have heard very good reports with milky spore, I did about 3 acres with it...good luck you have a wonderful environment to live in....and many thanks for your videos it's helpful my friends.
Thank you! I think I’ll edit the description soon to add on what trees at what times. 🙂 For that timeframe, that is Jordan Japanese Maple in the background. 😍
What calming pleasure you must get when just walking in your landscape! Did you get actual white leaves on your ukigumo - or was that just an illusion from the sun bouncing off so brightly?
Thank you for watching!! The ukigumo is somewhat white this year, but not nearly as white as we’ve seen other’s. I’d say it’s 80% there. It could be that it likes its new location. 🙂
Hey guys - we thought we'd try something different for this video. We always go through the trees fairly quickly, and never really let everyone see them for more than a few seconds. So, we thought we'd share a little bit of the more relaxed scene that we have here of our japanese garden / japanese maples & conifers. We've played videos like this in the past ourselves when we wanted to have something in the background going, or just something with Spring colors to watch during the winter days. We hope you enjoy it! We learned a few tricks if we make another for better audio, but we hope you all enjoy it nonetheless. Cheers & thanks for watching. 🙂
Megeitsu reminds me of 'Vitifolium', surprised you two don't have that in your garden (supposed to get quite big), insane big leaves sometimes 2-3x hand size. My Skeeter's broom, orange dream pushing out (the orange dream has definitely an orange glow in it during sun, not yellow yet like you two), My Aconitiflium is amazing, green leaves with a touch of pink, and 3 flowers, it's very small (2 feet) but 4 stems and very round, love it (Japonicums hard to change in shape, their starting branching shape will usually stay for all time. Osakasuki finally pushing out green leaves out of the red protection buds. I like how big the protection bugs are, looks cool, even if short during spring. It's one with 6 stems 1 feet from ground (2 feet high) wich why i bought it, don't want a single stem (would grow to fast). Also probably made a mistake, but bought what looks to be a 'Takao' 'seedling, it's a U shaped double step, then again splitting in U and W branch so basically 5 branch but all straight up. It's 2 meter in pot already (seedling quick growth rate), at the shop, 35 year olds are 6-7 meters), small green leaves, super cool in spring with red sides and protection buds, but later becomes very dark green, a colour wich i don't like very much (wich is partially why i love aconitifolium, always light green). Especially during rain days i love light colours as they keep vibrance in garden, dark leaves trees look very dull then. I might keep it in pot (takao) or plant, not sure yet. Fireflow seems amazing, excpet it might get 5 meter high, i can'"t have that in my small garden, Rhode island red seems perfect but scared the leave size may be small (i want a large Amoenum red leave next to osakasuki and to compare with small leave Skeeters' Broom. Geisha gone wild i would trade a shirazz with you xd Geisha is not available in EU, and Shirazz can get 7 meter (Geisha only 4), so sounds perfect as a variegated small tree in garden. Might 'dare' on Shirazz and cut if necessary.
Thanks for watching!! Yes, you’d probably really like the geisha gone wild for your situation - it barely grows for us, so might be great for your situation 🙂
Thanks for watching! That’s just very old painted pine that Anna didn’t want to ‘waste the paint’ on (the previous color of the house was red) 🤣🤣🤣 … we need to replace that entire structure, part of the supports have rotted out 😅 We’ve had our geisha gone wild for about ten years now, but, we got it at nearly the size it is now. We have two, and both barely push growth. They have about as much die back as they push out. They’re about four years in the ground in their current location. If I was to buy one again, I’d go with Shirazz - it’s supposed to be more vigorous. 🙂
@@buildingmodern I normally purchase the largest trees I can find that can be placed in my cargo van, I'm older than you guys. I did purchase a 2 gal geisha gone wild. I just loved your 'Aka shigitatsu sawa' , so very beautiful, reminds me of my amber ghost, my favorite of the ghost...I'm thinking on buying another amber that is a 30 gal but $700, it's very nice. I see I can purchase a 'Aka shigitatsu sawa' a 3 gal, I'm thinking it's a slow grower but yours has inspired me to go ahead with it. Happy to watch your show, beautiful environment... I'll have to treat myself and do it again...wishing you the most wonderful.
@@joebruhin2098 Thank you!! The Aka Shigitatsu Saw grows fairly quickly for a Japanese maple - ours grows about 12" or so each year in mostly shade (we got this one larger, and had been eyeing it for years). We love our amber ghost as well!!
Hi Guys. After watching this, I’m sold on the Skeeters Broom JM. Would love to see a more depth comparison of Twormbly vs Skeeters broom. Here in zone 7 my summer gold has red rings as it leaves out & stays bright yellow in full sun. Great tour. Thanks
Thanks for watching! Sure, we’ll include a closer comparison of the skeeter’s & Twombly’s in our next video. In general, the Skeeter’s tends to be more red for longer than the Twombly’s. But, otherwise, they are very similar to each other. We got all of them on clearance (why we have so many). 😁 Absolutely love summer gold! The new location is suiting the front one nicely! 😁
Just finished watching this. Love your spacious yard and how you are going about adding or moving trees as the circumstances suggest. Purple ghost is spectacular, as are a number of the others, such as pixie, summer gold, Jordan, Skeeter's Broom, and more. I can assure you that the time it takes you to do this is much appreciated by we viewers.
Thanks! Be sure to wait until the leaves have hardened off before starting the air layer. They don’t always take 100% of the time, but we find they’re usually more successful than not. Good luck!!
Ha, we weren't really counting the hours. Recording videos adds a lot onto it as well. I don't really have a clue on the hourly breakdown. If we made it without breaks, 5 days a week, and without recording videos, and without other work, it would probably take us 1-2 months as a 2-person crew. A lot of the time was taken up milling wood and doing what we could to save funds.
It depends on your zone/climate. For us in 8a with highs around the mid-to-high 90’s in the summer, it’s happiest at 4-6 hours of morning sun with afternoon shade. I wouldn’t put it past 7-8 hours of sun on the high end. Also, hot afternoon will burn it. If possible, I’d have it in shade after 2pm (this can be dappled or full shade). On the other hand, summer gold, which looks fairly similar to Jordan, can tolerate 12-13 hours of direct sun, including afternoon sun. It may burn a little bit by mid-August, but overall does fairly well with more sun than Japanese maples can typically tolerate. After that, I’ve heard ‘hot blonde’ is even more heat tolerant and can tolerate even hotter summer heat.
Your Orange Dream gets crispy in the summer because Orange Dreams are weak trees. I’ve have my 2 Orange Dreams (in a planter) with 8 hours of sun, and will get scorched in temperatures above ~93F. I haven’t given them away because of the nice lighter green summer leaves, which turns yellowish tanning in the sun.
You might be on to something here. While not as bad as Aureum, Orange Dream isn’t known for doing well in the heat. It’s better in zones 7a and colder. 🙂
The Aka Shigatsu Sawa is an amazing tree. When I remove the scorched light green leaves after the summer 100F-109F heat wave ends. I'll have bright red leaves till January.
